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Andyjr1515

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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. Andyjr1515
    Wow!
  2. Andyjr1515
    Gosh. That is utterly stupendous. And battery just about to die or not, those are lovely photos of the finished beauty. I love all of your builds, Scott - but this has to be my favourite so far.
  3. Andyjr1515
    Well, in my personal experience, experienced builders don't make any fewer or less silly mistakes...they just get better at fixing or hiding them... Nothing too terrible in your thread (I've done much worse) - and I LOVE that top colour
  4. Andyjr1515
    I'll be interested how you get on. The only problem might be that the thin tin won't be able to retain much heat and the dampened wood will quickly cool it. As such, you will be very dependent on how much heat the lamp is kicking out. Good to see this progressing - the headstock plate will look fine
  5. Andyjr1515
    Oh - and they are very readily available in all sorts of sizes. Just Google 'Mini/Miniature Thrust Bearings'
  6. Andyjr1515
    The ball races Andre at Nova fits are shown here: As I say - game changer...
  7. Andyjr1515
    I'm way, way behind on this one, so apols for the delay. Have you thought of mini ball-races between the knob and saddle-holder? Andre Passini at Nova Guitar Parts uses them and they absolutely transform the ease of turning. I have fitted a number of different headless systems over the years and this idea is the game changer without a doubt. I'll try to find a pic of the ball races from those fitted in one of my builds.
  8. Andyjr1515
    Yes - splendid!
  9. Andyjr1515
    Well, that should hold it
  10. Andyjr1515
    All looking good from here!
  11. Andyjr1515
    Delicious!
  12. Andyjr1515
    The micro-mesh cloth is probably more useable than the pads - you can get mixed grade packs on ebay/amazon. I usually go for the 3600 to 12000 packs. I wouldn't be without them - one of the best abrasive developments I've ever come across. The cloth versions (I use the 6" x 3" but other sizes are available) means you can used them with sanding blocks, cork blocks, radius blocks or just with your fingers. They are fully washable, can be used wet or dry, last an absolute age and are the tops!
  13. Andyjr1515
    Many thanks @ScottR and @Bizman62 for the detailed 'how and why' run through of the process here. Consider all techniques as stolen and expect my next build shinier Seriously, this is great info, y'all
  14. Andyjr1515
    We've all done it, @henrim Still looking great.
  15. Andyjr1515
    Still very attractive, though. Some of our builds are a bit like a Hollywood set - you look round the back and it's a bit dull That's not going to be the case with this one!
  16. Andyjr1515
    That said, better than a swan doing a midge dive into your beer. Makes a right old mess...
  17. Andyjr1515
    Gosh. Midges or not, it's a corker!
  18. Andyjr1515
    I'm pleased this thread has re-surfaced, @curtisa. I had forgotten just what challenges you were faced with and what a great job you did in innovating, improvising and enacting the solutions! Great work.
  19. Andyjr1515
    When you first posted that last iteration I thought, 'Yes. That's it!' And now you've added the epoxy, that looks super special! Like that very much.
  20. Andyjr1515
    That's going to look great when it's finished.
  21. Andyjr1515
    Hi, well done and welcome Yes - I spotted your build diary a while ago on, was it a Telecaster forum? If I remember correctly, this is the second version? Worth posting some of that here? Anyway, there are some really nice aesthetics in the design and the spray job of the finished job is excellent.
  22. Andyjr1515
    I'm a bit late to the party on this one but yes - I also use a relatively narrow straight beam (1"/25mm). It makes it easier to keep straight and, as I move progressively across the width of the fretboard, I can keep tangential to the curve of the frets better. The metal filings you can see as you are sanding also give a good gauge to any lines missed and the general progress towards flatness. What I do do, however, is finish off with a standard radius block with some emery to smooth out any facets I may have left across the width of the frets. Finally, I use the same radius block pushed across the frets (so doing 3-4 at a time) to get the starting sanded 'grain' direction on the frets the same as that of the subsequent re-crowning/polishing.
  23. Andyjr1515
    So good!
  24. Andyjr1515
    That's looking really good. What a difference!
  25. Andyjr1515
    There's some really nice work going on here, @henrim
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