Lycking

The frame saw looks like a nice idea! But i'm not really sure how it works. Is the point of the big frame that you can hold it horizontal? Thanks!

Simple question, any reccomendended methods to cut ½ inch off a 20 x 25 x 1 3/4 body? It is a bit curved on the side that i need to thin down. My thickness planer isn't wide enough, and i've tried the router sliding jig, but that didn't go too well.. Any suggestions? I need to do it with a top going from .80 to .25 inches aswell, which also is a little curved. It's for a hollowbody doubleneck tele Thanks in advance!

I actually finished this fella a while ago, just havn't had a lot of time, so here is it finished :-) And it plays great!

But! There's alot left to do. -Fasten the nut -Build a real pickup winder and wind a neck pickup - it sounds like heaven, bright and clear, buuut has the output of a potato.. -(possibly) get a new agathe and cut it to a truss rod cover (yay or nay?) -Fix the cavity cover -Fix the grounding -Fix some of the frets And then the biggest problem i've had.. The action is WAY too high! It's 0,8-0,9cm by the 19-20th fret, i must have made a serious calculation mistake when i reccessed the TOM.. Dangit! How in the world do i rescue this? Is it to remove the TOM posts and reccess it even more? I've never had an axe with a TOM, so i'm completely lost about how to work this out.. Next time, i'll make that neck angle! The neck has a bit frontbow, so i might give it a little backbow, that might help a few mm. I'm open for any suggestions!

Getting control over the things ...Well, in all cases more control than over the spagghetti beneath it Jack fixed Ooh, shiny.. No more loose screws And a set of test strings to fit the nut

Question.. Is this grounding enough? Or do i have to "melt" some of the goldplating off? I have no idea if it's conductive enough, or if i have to get further into it. Not because it can fall off (it wont), but solely because of the grounding I've had some strins on and had sound through it, and it is noisy. That was without the shielded backcover, but i'll se later when its closer to finish..

Got the strap locks in place Fixed backside ferrules Knocked the posts in and sorted the TOM Tailpiece is in ('58 FV style - my all time favorite TP) Shielding of the electronics done

Yeah, learning by doing! (and messing up hehe) Still need to finish the rest of the hardware, but as of now, the neck is lightning fast, and it really has lower friction than any neck i've felt in my life, really suprised over how well that turned out. The body itself is also slick and smooth, the oil really sealed it up nicely. But i'm wondering if i can sand the sides a little with 4-600ish grain sandpaper, since the grain raised a little and made it a bit rough after the last layer of oil. Would this mess up the finish or anything? Havn't really worked with oil like this before Can't wait 'till it's plugged in and turned up

Oiled up and set aside the sunday to finish this build

Finally returned from travelling, and for the first time in ages i had time to work just a little on the V I started with routing for the recessed TOM, and then i routed/chiseled space for the control cavity's cover. Sadly, none of the two turned out as nice as i'd hoped, but well, nothing ever gets perfect i suppose And right now am i preparing the guitar to begin finishing with danish oil

Frets installed Sanding and filing down the fret ends to the fretboard Fret ends done and angled Tuner holes drilled and tuners test installed Test strung up to position the bridge and to make pull in the neck before i adjust the truss rod and level the frets I'm about to begin on figuring out how to recess the TOM, any of you got experience in doing that?

As always thanks alot for the great answers gentlemen! Always a pleasure to seek advices from you great guys! The fretboard chips are just lift-ups from the fretting, i could actually press them back in place with a nail, and now that the ebony has gotten it's plan black color back overnight (it was brighter/greyish after sanding) are they almost invisible I'll try to take a few pictures and measure it when i'm back at home tomorrow or sunday. I did the superglue and dust trick with a hole in the fretboard which it had acquired during shipping, it worked like a charm and is basically invisible, except for that it is shining a bit more than the rest of the wood, but it's just squished in between a fret and the 9th fret dot, so they take the eyes away from the mark. I also did the scrap trick on the back of the neck and it has some glue lines of course, but hey! Scars are just reminders of the past Patina and mistakes makes the soul.. I think i'll try this here aswell, going to be hard to square out the hole though! That is what I would do. I would likely then contour the neck join quite a bit more and see how much of the repair can be carved away. With the way the fretboard is under cut there will always be a little bit that is visible. Play way up on the neck with dirty hands for a while and that will go away. If you fix it so it cannot be felt, and it's a good player, you'll forget about it after a while. SR Hmm the contouring is a really great idea, but i dont think it'll work since it's just under the fretboard, and i'd prefer not to make that bow/contour towards the middle.. I think i'll try to fill it with maple and then just leave it as good as it gets! The thing that annoys me the most about it isn't the faultyness itself, but more that a little router slip can do that much! Thanks a world again!

Polished the fretboard with steel wool and glued/sanded the mother-of-pearl side dots in place ....And forgot to take pic of that And now it's all about a fretjob, which i havnt tried before from scratch And 2 things is messy! How do i fix these two? Crisiiiis! (the chips)

Placed the V tailpiece at the sweet spot Fixed holes for strings, screws and ferrules on the back.. That was a "hole" lotta work Routed the jack and a channel to the cavity, and drilled a hole for the 3way switch

Been awhile since i've been using almost all my time with my girlfriend... ...And a load of Le Mans!!! Started with routing the bridge humbucker cavity and cleaning up with the drill-->chisel-->router Did the same with the neck PU cavity And had to do a mock-up