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scorpionscar

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Everything posted by scorpionscar

  1. Hi guys, I'm working on 4 new hardrock guitars. Two of them ara strato style guitars, one one with only bridge humbucker semi-relic guitar, the other is a replica of Richie Sambora. The third is a superstrato style wit a pau ferro top and ebony fretboard and the last one a ferray red remated with stainless steel pickguard flying-v type guitar. I'll try to document the whole process explaining with plenty of detail and asnswering my doubts. I don`t remember how to upload images, if you can help me I would be very grateful. Thanks in advance. Scorpionscar
  2. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Is time for communions in my workshop and what better for celebrating than this nuclear white Flying-V!!! Jokes aside, these are some pics of the finish of the guitar. This first communion white is a primer coat for filling the grain and regularize the surface, but it will be painted in another eye-catching colour. Stay tuned... Scorpionscar
  3. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Some artistic pics of the necks: Scorpionscar
  4. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Have calculated the exact place of the studs of the bridge, in this case a Gotoh 510 UB, amazing, it has surprised me this wraparound. Some pics of this hardrock beauty: Scorpionscar
  5. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Today I've drilled the holes for the Hipshot bridge. For doing this I've used a drill press and onces the position of the bridge was calculated, I screwed it to the body and used as a template. I used a 3.75 mm drill bit and did the 1st and the 6th holes totally through the body, and the rest, only half hole. Uncrewed the bridge and positioned it in the back of the guitar and placed introducing two bits in the 1st and 6th holes. After that did the other holes. For the ferrules used an 8 mm diameter brad point bit. Before this I built a jig consisting in a table of about 300x300 mm and drilled a hole with the same bit, 3.75 mm, after that cut the bit and introduced into the hole, allowing only about 6 mm standing out resptect the surface of the table. I marked the center of the bit with a cross and aproached the brad point of the bit until I reached the cross of the pin. Now you have only to put the guitar upsidedown and insert the holes into the pin, The drills are perfectly concentric. Scorpionscar
  6. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    I've purchased this warparound bridge for the Flying-V: https://www.axesrus.co.uk/Gotoh-510UB-p/510ub.htm Do I have to mount angle the high E respect the Low E about 3 mm the same way of bridge + tailpiece, or is mounted straight? Scorpionscar
  7. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Thank you Mr Natural. Mapple is very hard too. I used wengué cause I had a stripe in the workshop. Now the headstock is solid as a rock. Haven't assembled the bridge and put strings but I think the tuning problem has solved. Scorpionscar
  8. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Thank you very much Scott. Is a proud for me hearing this words from you. They motivate me to follow doing things the best way I can. Happy week begining to everybody! Scorpionscar
  9. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    This weekend I’ve been repairing the headstock of one of my guitars. An explorer I built some years ago, to be honest, my first guitar, and as a result I met this amazing forum. I’m going to explain the way I did it, cause I think is interesting for its complexity and for the risk as any mistake could be a disaster. With the permission of the moderators of the forum, I’ve decided to use this topic, instead of this reparation has nothing to do with the project of the four hardrocker guitars building, the reason is to avoid opening another topic. If this is no correct, we can move it to another properly section. The question is that I was playing my guitar and when I put it in the stand, it suddenly slipered and fell down. Aparently has no cracks, no scratches, nothing visible, but had problems for maintaining the correct tuning. I used my optivisor, and found that there was a little fissure just in the glue line of the scarf joint, almost invisible but when forced the headstock with my hands, the micro fissure opened then and got bigger, I decided to repair it. Some people said: “what a pitty, did not your heart break when you saw it falling down? My answer is NO, I didn’t. This things happens and is impossible to avoid them. If the guitar were in the case ten, twenty or forty years and had no use, it always look radiant, but an instrument only has sense if makes music, if serves as a vehicle to transmit emotions and feelings. Is normal that a guitar has scratches, and war scars, that makes it more beautiful and functional. Well, lets go, for the reparation I decided to make three mortises of 6x6x60 mm and insert three tenons of wenge with dimensions 6x8x60. 30 milimiters in each side of the glue line of the scarf joing for reinforcing it. I masked the front and rear of the headstock to prevent any scratch or damage. With the help of a template I marked the position of the mortises. How about my Coca-cola towel? hahahaha, is pretty cool... In order to do the job as precise as posible, I built a jig for mounting the router. With this jig is very easy to do the job I fixed the jig to the work bench with a clamp and screw the headstok to the slope of the jig using a pletin and the tuner drills. Now is time to make the tenons. This part thougth would be difficult but was really easy and fast. I cut the the tenons with a japanesse saw and marked the radious for rounding them with the help of my homemade sander. I tried if they fitted into the mortises and retouch if necessary with a file. After that I began to glue and clean the excess of titebond with a wet cloth, this way appart from clean beter, force the tenons to increase its volume some tenths of a milimiter and this helps to maintain them pretty tight. Afther that I use a clamp and left drying overnight. In order to increase the strenght and the aesthetics of the rear of the headstock I decided to glue a veneer of 1.7 mm. For achieving this I used the router mounted into a tunnel. Then marked the silhouette of the headstock with a template and cut with the bandsaw. The next morning I took off the clamps and since the mortises were 6 mm depth and the tenons 8, if maths does not fail, there are a difference of 2 mmthat have to be removed. For this I used a chisel. I sanded the zone for nivelating the tenons with the headstock Surface and for removing the coats of nitrocellulose. Since the headstock has an angle of 17º was neccesary to build a mould with the band saw in order to forcé the veneer to be bent. I put the veneer into the mould and applied steam and fastened the clamps slowly until the veneer achieved the definitive shape. I considered it was a good idea to drill the tuners holes before gluing it, I marked them with a wood bit wit brad point and drilled the 6 holes. They coincided perfectly, and began to glue. I used my MDF mini-clamps that make the job very easy. For eliminating the excess of the bubinga of the veneer I designed a jig for the routerbase of the Dremel, very easy. There are bits with bearings but very expensive… Finally only have to repaint the headstock. This hard rock beauty is now ready for much rock!!! Scorpionscar
  10. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Some ideas for drilling through body string holes without a proper drill press? the problem is that in mine, the distance between the bit and the colum is not enough and for doing this is necessary precissionn for drilling the holes and then in the back of the guitar the cavities for installin the ferrules, I mean, two concentric differente diamter holes, one for the string and the other for the ferrule. Scorpionscar
  11. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Thank you very much for your words Andy. Glad you like my work and pics!! Scorpionscar
  12. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Hahaha, pure porn!!! Scorpionscar
  13. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    I've continued working on the Flying-V. I routed a border through the headstock. For this I used table for the dremel and use a tungsten router. I routed too the frames over the cameras of the wings whera I'll places a stainless steel grid. After a hard day of working, went home for dinner but could not resist the temptation of gluing the neck to the body, so, I had dinner and want again to the workshop for doing it. Had to use the chisel for adjusting some zones, but it fixed perfectly like a glove. Some pics of the process: Scorpionscar
  14. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    You are right Curtisa, to be honest, had no thought about that issue. I usually play with Flying-V's standing up. The reason I led me to locate the input jack in the lateral of the wing is due to the design of the guitar, no other place came to my mind. When played V's sit down, usually use the stratp and don't put the thight between the shape of the guitar...
  15. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Today I've been working on the jack access of the Flying-V. Since is a modern desing, I decided to locate the imput jack in the border of the inferior wing of the guitar. Usually goes in the front of the guitar, perpencicular to it, this way is unconfortable for my taste. For doing this and due to the angle of the wings, is not a good idea to do the drill directly. I made a template-guide with a piece of the same width of the guitar. I made the drills in the drill pres for assure perpendicularity. After that put the guide in its position and fix both the guitar and the template-guide with a clamp. Now is easy to do it correctly. I made two drills, one for the border of the jack (16 mm) and other for the jack itself (12 mm). Some pics of the process. Happy weekend: [ Scorpionscar
  16. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    You are right Curtisa, using logic is true that the way you play upper frets the angle increases, starting from a perfect leveled frets there shouldn't be problems. I made fallaway in one of the fretboards and no fall away in the others. When they are finished, I'll test. If the action is very low is possible it has sense the idea of fallaway, but an excesive low action has no much profits in playing, in my experience. Scorpioncar
  17. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Could someone explain me how to proceed for a perfect fallaway? Scorpionscar
  18. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Yes, I'll assemble all the componentes before painting. It's true I don't like very much drilling much holes due to when wet sanding the water penetrates the wood and could detach the paint in this area... Scorpionscar
  19. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    After a few months of hard work and dedication I couldn't resist the temptation of this familiar pic of the four hardrockers. At expence of ensambling bodies and necks, filling the grain, the guitars are ready for paint in the following weeks. I've took some pics of the advances. Hope you like: Scorpionscar
  20. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    I've built this simple jig for the correct alignment of the neck and body in aluminium. Very useful jig and easy to build. Some pics: Scorpionscar
  21. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Today I've been shaping the neck of the strato relic. Spokeshave, rusp, sand paper and a lot of work. By the way, had problems with the spokeshave, some piece of advise about this tool? some pics of the process/results: Scorpionscar
  22. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Thank you so much Andyjr1515, I love doing that inlaying work, I really enjoy! I've tested that issue with a jig I bulid for that purpose (testing the perpendicularity, and after the slot I insert a cutter blade and test with a squad, and is perfect. The saw runs perfectly over the bearings, and with mapple or rosewood for example. But you're right, itps possible in ebony that for a tenth of a milimiter the problem occurs. Certainly is a torture... About your anterior question, no problem doing the slots with the freboard tappering, but if I had to choose, is better to do with the fretboard untappered. Maybe part of the problem could be caused for using the fretboard radioused, allways radious first and then slot, for the same reason, I radious with the router, and afraid of slotting first and the router bits tears the slots... Yes, is possible to cut the frets and then curve them with the drill press, I've done this way too, but the bender is easy to do, cheap and usefull. Fret press is a very helpful tool too. I've just bought one and can't understand how could live without it. Expecially important with ebony, I think ebony is my enemy hahaha... My diary advances: Today I've been freting the Flying-V and installing the side dot markers. The fret work was very delicated cause the frets slippered expecially due to inlays. In some cases I had to lube with bee wax, because the frets tended to go out the slot and produce tear outs. Fortunatelly had nothing to lament, but was a delicated and tense work all the time. For the side dot markers built a metacrilate template and is really quick and easy to do. Fix the template with double side tape and it takes no more than 20 minutes and the result is perfect. Some pics: Scorpionscar
  23. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Today I've been working on frets. For this once the fret slots are done, I use the japanesse saw with a metacrilate stop block with the measurement of the tang with about five tenths of a milimiter. After that I install the frets firs put them into position with the help of the hammer and them with the press (an incredible must have tool). For cutting the frets I use a tongs that I adapted with the emery, when the frets are cut I use a fret beveler file with 35º. I really enjoy freting work. Some pics of the process: Scorpionscar
  24. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Fretless guitar hahaha, I'm joking. No, basically I decided to do this way to experiment. Ebony is very hard but very fragile on the other hand, Some years ago working with an ebony fingerboard, I slotted it first and when shaping with the router, a little tear out was produced just at the end of one of the slots, Spite of this caution, this time with no slots done, another tear out occurred (fortunatelly is almost invisible, two or three tenths of a milimiter) no really a problem at all. I designed and built a jig for slotting that allows to locate the fingerboard with the final shape done, perfectly centered in the simetrical line of the template, The slots are perfectly perpendicular to this line with no problems. I fixed two clamps that force both the fingerboard and template in place. About the radious, always do it before slotting, because made another jig with two rails that allows to radious a fingerboard in five minutes. If have to radious with a radious block and sand paper it takes an eternity, and the problem increases with the inlays (imposible to inlay first and then use the jig with rails for the router). Another important problem I mentioned some mounths ago, is that ebony is hard as a rock and japanesse saw tends to bend inside the slot, and is very very difficult to slot the fingerboard properly. Since the fingerboard is tappered to its final shape, there is less width of ebony (expecially in the 12 first frets, them tend to increase the width), I think this fact helps the sawblade to do the work with less effort, but is only a thought. When I finally try this technique (not sure if tomorrow due to easter) but when try to do it I'll evaluate if is better or worst to tapper it first and tell you my impressions. Up date of the post: I was sawing the slats today. The fingerboard was perfectly in place thanks to wedges and double stick tape. No differences in comparisson with doing the job before tappering. The real problem is with ebony, instead of having lubricated in each slot with bee wax, I`m frustrated casuse the saw beds into the slot and is impossible to do the job. I'm thinking about another method casue miter box and japanesse saw doesn't work in ebony. It tooks me hours when the normal thing is to do it in half an hour. Any ideas? Scorpionscar
  25. scorpionscar

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    Today I've been preparing the fretboard of the Flying-V in order for gluing. I used a jig I built because due to the long tenon is no possible to route after gluing using the neck shape as a template. Some pics: Hoy he estado trabajando en el diapasón de la Flying-V para prepararla para encolar. He pegado el diapasón al mástil con cinta de doble cara y me he asegurado de que quedara bien posicionado justo por la línea de simetría. Una vez marcado lo he cortado con la sierra de banda y con ayuda de un útil que me he fabricado es muy sencillo sujetarlo por la línea y pasarlo por la fresadora de forma segura y efectiva. Scorpionscar
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