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About Norris

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  1. I have the T-shirt for that! A vegetable steamer appliance was very useful
  2. For shimming a neck pocket you could try making your own. I made the veneer for my headstock by resawing an offcut of the body top wood, fixing it to a sheet of MDF (the masking tape & CA trick would be good here) and then sanding it down to required thickness. A bit of effort but very achievable if you don't need a large sheet
  3. Thanks. I've tried to show everything, warts & all. If it gives somebody something to think about before making a mistake, provides a tip for how to achieve something, or even inspires someone to start their first build - then it's all been worth it That's been my philosophy throughout - It takes as long as it takes. The next one will be a lot quicker, as it's a much simpler build. Having said that I'll be tackling some stuff I've not done in this build, such as a neck angle & scarf joint (Yes, it's lined up already, much to my wife's chagrin!)
  4. That's looking lovely
  5. @KnightroExpress did a review of the Triton here: It's on my wish list
  6. I just noticed this thread has over 11.5k views - I'd better get it finished!
  7. I got the tuner screw holes drilled - check. There are only 4 holes left to drill now - the neck pickup mounting plate retaining screws and the strap locks. The top is now ready for dyeing, except I noticed a couple of tiny scratches in the bottom of the teardrop recess for the controls. That shouldn't take long to sort, then I'll give it a very light wipe of dye before checking for any more scratches I used/adapted a few tips that I saw on here. I needed to do a bit of sanding in the forstner bit recesses where the controls will mount. I found a largish drill bit with flat bottom, stuck some masking tape on the bottom and superglued some 400 grit to it, then cut round with a sharp knife. I then repeated it with a strip around to bottom of the shank. The result, a lovely cylindrical sanding stick. It was good for doing a small roundover too. I've got a few real life things coming up, but masking & dyeing of the top should commence soon
  8. 18mm? - you could probably get that split again and get two tops out of it
  9. I wouldn't go much thinner than 4mm - you'll need a bit for finish sanding. I think I left about 6mm on my Tele. Take it steady when you get to it. You'll probably want to apply some sort of finish to the chamber. Dye/paint/clear lacquer - up to you. You won't be able to do it once the top is on - at least not very easily.
  10. I've knocked the dye back very slightly with 0000 grade wire wool. That's mainly to bring back some of the end grain definition and to even out a couple of slight streaks in the dye. I then got it nice & clean and slapped a reasonable coat of sanding sealer on it. Of course I managed to get the obligatory little midge land on it, so now have a tiny insect wing stuck to the back - which should come out easy enough. Now to flip it over and do the final prep sanding on the front. I also need to drill the tuner screw holes & do a final sanding on the neck before I dye the veneered headstock No pictures today as it looks pretty much like last time - but slightly shinier Thanks for the kind comments
  11. Glad you got over that hurdle. Onwards & upwards!
  12. Very nice job. The gold top looks luscious
  13. Another fabulous build to add to your impressive portfolio!
  14. It's blue In dim light it looks almost black. In the light it's vibrant. It's the sort of colour that is not easy to capture on camera, quite similar to Rickenbacker Azureglo in places, but with the natural variation of dyed wood. It looks lighter in the photo than in real life. I've got it sitting on a sheet of white paper to try to give my phone camera a clue to the white balance, and has the unfinished maple cover in place too. I must admit (now) that I was tempted for a few minutes to keep the back natural. However there are so many guitars with a natural ash back - and mine definitely isn't "so many guitars" . Even my wife is coming round after several days of "you've ruined it" comments. I will be knocking it back slightly with some 0000 grade wire wool. That's more to even out the slight streaks and to lighten up the end grain slightly where the dye took more easily. The silk of the unfinished dye looks great, but I will be applying a clear lacquer and going "shiny" with it. Anyway, I'm very pleased with that. It's pretty close to my original vision. When I get to the top I'll try to burst it slightly, but still keep the colour saturated.