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About Norris

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    Leicester, UK
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  1. Have a look at Inkscape. This is a free vector graphics application. You can import an image (e.g. find one on Google, copy & paste) and then draw elastic band-style lines over the top, that you can then tweak around until they are how you want them. Of course this will be a lot easier if you have ever messed around in similar graphics applications such as CorelDraw, etc. There are some pretty good tutorials on the Inkscape site though
  2. The magnets are in place They are 3mm diameter and 2mm tall, which are the smallest ones I could find (on eBay?). Because I only have about 5mm of wood to play with and didn't want to drill through, I first drilled 3mm holes in my inner route template so I could get the magnets aligned and gently used a hand drill to mark out on the cover and body. I then used my Dremel + . StewMac router base along with a 3.2mm flush router bit to do a plunge spot cut of a nominal 2.5mm. Those magnets are fiddly little fellas, but I eventually managed to get them expoxied in. It's the first time I've used the StewMac router base to do a plunge cut, and although I got the results I wanted it could have been a lot easier if there were springs fitted to both posts. The un-sprung depth stop had a tendency to rotate when the Dremel was on, meaning I had to jam a bit of chewing gum in the thread to stop it turning - and life became a lot easier then. The additional springs would help a lot with the stability too and would remove a lot of the flex when plunging. I'll have to see if they do spare springs and "upgrade" mine Anyway, I'll end off with a close up of the the previously un-photographed "pinky" chute... I'll do another "actually fits" shot of the cover when I've scraped down the epoxy Anyway, I think we may be gearing up for a grain filling & dyeing on the back soon ...
  3. Lovely work with the boards, but sorry I have to mention - that's the second photo you've posted of a plane resting blade side down. I always lay mine on the side when not in use, to avoid damage
  4. Oh and I might add, I did the join in the binding on the straightest part of the curve to help with alignment. Now it's scraped down I can hardly see the join with my binoculars on, even when I know where it is!
  5. So then the template went in place to take in the "overcut" Using my Dremel with router base I could then dial in the depth accurately I then spent some time using the template as a form, to heat the binding so it would go in place nicely. It turned out that the spare binding was about 2mm short by the time I'd squared off the ends, so I made myself a little "key" insert from a small offcut. It ended up about 2mm wide - I took it down gradually to make the snuggest fit I could Then having wrapped 5 layers of masking tape around my rear panel (I marked out using 3, but want a REALLY snug fit) I used it to hold the binding in place while the adhesive went off Now you can probably see why I made a "key" insert. Trying to hold something that small in place without getting glue everywhere would have been very difficult Once it was dry I then used a small pull shave to get within about 2mm of the height, then a cabinet scraper, and eventually my sanding table to get it all levelled Since then I have re-sanded the back down to 400 grit and cut a small finger slot to assist in removing the panel. No photos of that yet. Finally (both with no photos), I have sanded the headstock some more, including getting the transition curve nice & smooth (flamed maple veneer on quite a tight curved Fender style headstock if you recall), and also done some tweaks to the logo artwork & placed my order for the headstock waterslide decal (Rothko & Frost)
  6. As for guitar building progress, there has actually been some. If you recall from the last time, I had a slight "overcut" incident when routing for my rear access panel. Luckily the "overcut" was about the thickness of the binding I have been using and I had some left over. Now I've not done any internal binding before - it's all been external which means you can use tape to hold it. This may not be the "correct" or indeed easiest way to do things, but it's how I approached it... So firstly I took the rear access panel and wrapped 3 layers of masking tape around the outside edge - a clearance of 0.36mm And then used an offcut of binding to mark out my template Having removed the masking tape I have my slight clearance gap About the only time I'd advocate using a jigsaw for guitar building is to quickly make templates. Having rough cut to within about 2mm of the line, I then very carefully used the face of the blade as a vertical file to get within 0.5mm Which greatly minimised the amount of hand sanding I had to do, plus I got a pretty vertical cut.
  7. Progress has been pretty slow of late. One of the reasons being our latest aquisition For any VW buffs out there, it's a 1979 Devon camper, mostly original, including the 2.0l T4 engine. Anyway, enough derailing my own thread
  8. That gold finish is looking sweet. Nicely done!
  9. I'm liking that thicknessing jig. Have you got a vacuum hose on the sled box to remove the shavings?
  10. Looking very nice. I like the way you've left the carve un-dyed and still got crisp, flowing edges on the dyed top
  11. I'm looking forward to doing some proper hand sanding on my build soon
  12. As a complete novice I've found the most useful bit of kit that you've mentioned to be the drill press. I have bought a bandsaw because a friend was selling it at a decent price, but haven't had the occasion to use it yet. I must mention though that I attend guitar building evening classes and have access to the school workshop equipment. However apart from roughing out the body & neck I've not had the use their bandsaw much either. I could have probably made do with a jigsaw. The most useful power tools have been the drill & router. The rest so far has been covered by the old school stuff - a decent hand plane, rasp, cabinet scrapers and a sanding table. Then you get into the specialist tools such as radius jigs, fret saws, nut files, etc - luckily I can use those at my classes
  13. That's good to hear. I'm about to order up a decal for my build from there. I must finalise the design - hopefully I'll need it soon!
  14. I did a couple of tests with dye & grain filler for my ash back. In this case it's dark blue spirit-based dye and black thixotropic grain filler. It didn't look much different whether I dyed or grain-filled first in the end, so I've decided to grain fill first as that will require the most sanding back of the two processes. I'm looking forward to seeing this guitar too
  15. Thanks for your kind comments. I'm certainly not going to start rushing now, although I'm as keen as you are to see a finished guitar! My wife even bought me a Hiscox case for it for Xmas!