Jump to content

Entry for January's Guitar Of The Month contest is now open!
http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49179-guitar-of-the-month-january-2018/

Remember to cast your vote for Guitar Of The Year 2017 - open throughout January

 

Norris

GOTM Winner
  • Content count

    625
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Norris last won the day on December 16 2017

Norris had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

225 Excellent

About Norris

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicester, UK
  • Country Flag

Recent Profile Visitors

1,574 profile views
  1. Carry on. I'm seriously considering getting one Amazon (UK) have the RT0700CX4 for £109 at the moment - that includes the bearing guide. Seriously tempting if I had any money!
  2. Knightro Guitars 2018

    That's going to look sweet!
  3. Solly’s Guitar build diary

    If you do a small radius, you can always make it bigger Lovely woods btw
  4. Bay Wood Any Good?

    So there's another name for it - Grecian laurel Edit: It's actually the tree you get bay leaves from, the ones used in cooking. A neighbour pointed out that I have a fortune currently laying in my back garden - if they were dried, packaged and on a supermarket shelf!
  5. Bay Wood Any Good?

    No, it's a completely different species and not easy to find any information re. working it
  6. Laurus nobilis or the Mediterranean Bay. Last weekend I cut down a 20' example and now have a number of substantial logs - certainly large enough for neck blanks/stringers. Is it likely to be any good? It seems to have a fairly tight grain, although fairly weighty. I can't find much information on t'Internet - a few people that have used it for turning, and a lot of links that refer to the Californian bay a.k.a. myrtle If it's any good for guitar building, what's the best way to store it? Should I paint the cut ends and will that help to avoid splitting as it dries out?
  7. We did consider making a larger base for it with a much smaller cutout to improve stability. However only having 2 hours of class time I persevered with what I had. I might well revisit it at some point though
  8. Welcome. A tele is a good place to start
  9. The aforementioned gouge (The different coloured stripe is where the router bit cut in the opposite direction on the final pass) And the body routed
  10. I finished routing the body this evening. First a pass with a top bearing bit, following the mdf template... Then removed the template and did a second pass. Finally flipped the body over and switched to a bottom bearing bit for the last pass... The little Makita router in the second photo is so much easier to use. It's very light, and held with one hand on top and a couple of fingers pressed down onto the base plate. It's a joy to use. The larger router was much more fatiguing, being much heavier and having a large cut out area in the base plate - that made it much less stable and lead to a 1mm deep gouge on the top horn because my arms were aching. The gouge will sand out, but was a bit disappointing as I was being very careful. Next time I'll just use the Makita. The class also have a bearing guide for it, which is what I used to cut the binding rebate on the Nozcaster - lovely bit of kit
  11. I'm limited by the length of my neck blank. I had to be careful to avoid any wastage when I did the scarf as I knew it was tight on length. There should be enough to reach the other side of the pickup route though
  12. We're still refining the specs on this. Following the latest discussion: Two P90s Neck to join body at 20th fret for improved neck stability (most twin P90 LPJr-DCs seem to do this) Move the bridge back slightly to accommodate Wraparound compensated bridge No binding on neck No scratchplate I'm currently routing the body from its rough-cut state, but not worth pictures yet
  13. Solly’s Guitar build diary

    Ditto - and welcome!
×