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Entry for March 2018's Guitar Of The Month is under way!



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Everything posted by Norris

  1. I may not start work in this for a little time, but thought I'd get it posted up as I may switch to it occasionally if the current build grinds to a halt at any point (which seems likely given the difficulty the commissioner has in making a decision at times!) This is a fairly cheap 12-string acoustic that I bought many years ago. When the action got so high as to be unplayable, it got dumped in the loft of my house where it sat for at least 15 years. A few weeks ago I fetched it down to discover I'd left the strings under tension, which certainly hasn't done it any favours. As I now attend a regular guitar building class, it seems a fairly light step into the world of acoustic guitars to fix it up It has a couple of issues. The neck seems to have come unstuck... ... and the top has warped around the bridge (not quite so noticeable now as it's not been under tension for a few weeks) ... ... and has started to lift the fretboard too as the neck folded in. The plan is to remove the old top and neck, make a new top with decent bracing, and then rebuild it, possibly with a new fretboard too - depending what state the old one is in. Oh, and if you're wondering, it's a "CL Clarissa" (nope, me neither! )
  2. This is my second build, which should be a bit more simple than my first on. At the moment it's very much a "back burner" project while I finish up on my previous build: http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48292-first-build-the-nozcaster/ This one is a fairly basic Les Paul Junior Double Cut copy for my guitarist Dan. It will be slightly "customised" The spec (so far): Mahogany neck Single piece khaya body (African mahogany) Ebony fretboard Ebony headstock plate Twin P90 pickups Custom control layout - he likes the volume control right under his pinkie MOP dot markers & monogram inlay at 12th fret Luminlay side dots Solid colour (not quite decided which colour yet!) This will have a few "firsts" for me: Using mahogany or ebony Set neck Having a neck angle Scarfing joint Inlay work
  3. I've finished squaring off the tenon for now. It's 30mm at the narrowest, and that's the depth that I'll route the mortise. I'll cut it to length when I know the width of the pickups (still being dithered over by Dan!) I've also tidied up the slight dodginess of the shoulder cut using a cabinet scraper So while "we" decide on the pickups, I spent some time designing the inlays (I love inkscape!). I won't reveal those yet, but I've been highly recommended to get them made by Small Wonder Music. So I won't be faffing about cutting MOP on this particular build. I may need to start yet another thread soon, because as a fallback job in case this build grinds to halt, I've decided to rebuild my un-playable 12-string acoustic. The neck has come un-glued and the top is badly warped. As a short cut introduction to acoustic building I'll be making a new top from the yellow spruce I bought this evening and building it up from there. It has a lovely tap tone and is nice and stiff to take the strain of 12 strings, plus I'll also be making laminated braces (apparently, according to my tutor )
  4. Four new rockers are coming to life

    Did you make the ebony frames for the stars yourself? Some seriously meticulous work going on there. Well done
  5. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Sawdust! I saw sawdust!
  6. Hand Planes

    I got my no. 5 jack plane from eBay. It's an old Stanley one, made back when the blades were made of decent quality metal. Somebody had reconditioned it, which made it unattractive to the collectors market, but was ideal for me - who actually wanted to use it as a plane rather than sit it on a shelf to gaze at . My no. 3 smoothing plane was inherited from my uncle I'd say to avoid cheap new planes - they are a false economy. However the decent quality tools (Lie-Nielsen, etc.) soon ramp up in price
  7. Did it sort your back out?
  8. I'm building a copy of a Les Paul junior using one. Tbh it's more due to insistence of the future owner than any choice of mine. There again he believes in tone wood voodoo too They can be a bit costly for decent ones (for what they are, especially if fixed, compensated intonation) and the cheaper ones can be a bit ropey on quality. I'm not fully convinced that I really want a twisting force on the bridge and would have probably used a separate bridge & anchor given a choice... and some intonation adjustment. Ho-hum
  9. Probably not as sharp as yours Still, the cabinet scraper gives me a lot of control, does not cause tear-out, and takes a much longer time to make a major cock-up - so hopefully I'll avoid that. You know how patient I can be...
  10. The next job was to cut the base of the tenon at a right angle to the side cuts - which means I can route a normal, constant depth mortise in the body. After marking out I cut down the heel to leave a 30mm tenon - approx 2/3 of the body thickness. I clamped a steel rule in place to ensure the cut was at right angles to the centre line. Having done that I then used the bandsaw to rough cut the base of the tenon, leaving about 1mm to clean up. Tackling it with the micro-plane or a very sharp chisel still resulted in tear out - the grain and the angled cut just didn't like it, whichever direction I tried to cut in. So before I wrenched too much wood out I switched to using a cabinet scraper. It will take much more time, but I'll stand half a chance of having a flat surface rather than something more akin to a muddy sports field! No pictures yet as I still have about 0.1mm to go, but ran out of class time
  11. Off-set custom creation

    I love the styling and you've got a gorgeous rich tone from your dyes. The linear burst looks great with your scratchplate, and a gloss finish you could dive into. Well done! Welcome btw
  12. When you're struggling to get to your nuts... Headstand! Come on PlusGas - do your job. My poor rusty nuts!
  13. Sorry that name's been taken

    I was once in a band called Mad Cow (yes, rather bad taste at the height of the BSE scare ) and we used Ermintrude as the band logo
  14. Stainless steel frets

    If it's your first build I wouldn't fret (ba-dum tish!) and stick to standard wire
  15. Rickenbacker Restoration

    If you go the nitro route, you don't want to be breathing it! It's not nice stuff. Read up and take necessary precautions
  16. Sorry that name's been taken

    The Magic Roundabout
  17. Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Absolutely not - I'm in full agreement . I hope the tendinitis clears up soon - it can take quite a few months of rest to do so though
  18. Rickenbacker Restoration

    It looks a lovely bit of wood, and the chequered binding looks to be in decent condition too. If it were mine I'd take it back to bare wood, finish it in clear and make a new pickguard - and lose the P pickup in the process i.e. restore it to original(ish) mapleglo condition
  19. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    You didn't catch the Spinal Tap paraphrase?
  20. Flamed Maple Strat (Parts) Build

    Don't forget - if you're lacquering, you don't want it too tight
  21. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    It's like... how much more flame could it be? And the answer is none... none more flame
  22. I tried to like your post, but apparently I've used up all my reactions for today! Once the pencil marks are sanded away it will be flat (assuming your sanding table is flat to start with!)
  23. +1 for the sanding table It just takes time and patience. Scribble all over your surface and sand away until it's all gone, as @ScottR says
  24. looking for oversight... yeah it's me again...

    All credit to them for machining such a thing. Completely unnecessary though Oh... I stand... erm ... corrected? Nope, voodoo sonic vibrations