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Mad Mux

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About Mad Mux

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    San Diego
  1. Thanks, gents. I was thinking to start with 1000, but I'll try 2000 first....it can't hurt, if I'm getting nowhere I can drop down to 1500 or 1200, and as you say, try fine steel wool as well. Thanks...wish me luck...I'll post results, if they're presentable.
  2. Hello all DIYers, new to the forum, and new to forums in general, so not sure if I'm doing this the right way. Please forgive my rattle-can tastes on what appears to be a champagne forum, but I need some advice. Finally getting around to rattle can finishing my homebuilt Ric 300 lookalike bass body, chambered solid with maple tops. I dyed the maple tops amber first, then sprayed 3 or 4 coats of clear lacquer over that. Used light gray lacquer auto primer, then Duplicolor Flame red for the solid back and my first attempt at sunbursting. It actually looks OK, I think (The red is BRIGHT; I would have preferred the red a shade or two closer to brown, but hey....I'll be refining it several times throughout its life)....except the obvious places I used rattle can lids to suspend the spray shield over the top. Generally, that technique helped a lot getting the sunburst onto the edges, and protecting from drips (some Duplicolor cans do, some don't), but I did not count on that much "underspray", so you can clearly see the amber circles where the lids were. If I can sand the overspray out WITHOUT getting into the amber dye, then the second attempt will be easy, and I won't use can lids again! Question is: what grit should I start with to try to sand out the red over/underspray, but without cutting below the clearcoat and into the amber dye? Should I wet or dry sand? Circular motion or straight, with the grain?
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