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About 2.5itim

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1989

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  • Location
    Tulsa OK
  • Interests
    Guitars, cars, motorcycles, metal working
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  1. You don't need to dye and sand back to get a nice top, this one was one of my mixtures that's just straight purple, with no dye dark and sand back.
  2. Today I had the joy of stripping the black top prs body again.... I am so freaking tired of this guitar lol. I was level sanding and sanded into the base coat, so I have decided to change my approach. No base coat, no color coat and tinting the nitro lacquer instead. I'm 5 coats in right now but it hasn't gotten to the opaque stage yet so tomorrow I will continue spraying, after I get it to the opaque stage I will continue on with clear lacquer.
  3. I got the necks carved out yesterday. Holy crap, this wenge is not fun to carve. It's definitely the hardest wood I have carved yet. Still have a little refining to do and finish sand but they are done for the most part. And also got the inlays for the headstock done, still need to sand the other one down so don't have a pick of that one.
  4. Yeah I cut the inlay with a coping saw and the pocket with a dreamer and a 1/32" endmill. It's really hard to get the lines in the pocket just right but I'm getting better each time. This is definitely the best I've done so far. As for the reason I couldn't use the 2 bolts is because the heal in that area has to be quite thin and I use t nuts/bolts instead of wood screws, the t nuts are to long and I couldn't take the heel as thin as I needed with the t nuts in there. I've been able to do it once before but I had to do a bunch of modifications to the t nuts and it's to much of a pita to do when 3 bolts will hold just fine.
  5. Second top has been carved, belly carve has also been done, rounded over the back with a 1/2" round over bit. I also did a mountain top inlay in the back of that one using black limba. It's the same mountain top I use on my headstocks this one is just a little bigger. As I said a few posts back I originally planned to do a 5 bolt neck joint and could only do 3, I didn't realize the 5 wouldn't work until after I pilot drilled the body for the bolts holes so I had 2 holes I had to do something with. I originally tried to make a padauk/wood glue filler for them but the filler was a bit to dark and stood out to much so inlay it was.
  6. That's what I've been thinking about Scott, and honestly I really don't know. I know that prs does it quite a bit but they also do a hard type finish where I will be doing a oil finish on this neck/fretboard so I'm kinda weary.
  7. As for the body outline no I don't plan on taking the padauk outline all the way around, like pan_kara I like the way it stops right at the hips. With the fretboard the maple is already glued up so ebony or padauk is out of the question now. I do like the plain curly maple that it is now I just can't help but think it'd be cool to do a really dark brown dye and then sand it back so it still has the plain maple coloring but in the curls will be a darker brown to match the wenge neck a bit better.
  8. I also think that it should have a darker fretboard, can y'all give me some advice here? I'm thinking I should do a dye and sand back type finish on the fretboard, something sort of like the last picture.
  9. Back carve on the first one is done. I had a really hard time deciding on carving the treble side of the back but I think I'll leave it asymmetrical and just round the rest of it over. Fixing the split worked out well I think. I did even out the bottom area on the last pic after the picture was taken
  10. Ahh crap! Was I suppose to be saving those? Lol. I'll start now haha
  11. I don't have an incandescent bulb but I'll see what I can come up with. For the time being I edited a couple of them to try and show it off a little bit more, didn't work very well but you'll at least be able to get an idea. The recurve goes pretty much from the tip of the horns to the back of the bridge pickup position and the tapers up to the normal thickness of the body after that, except the bass side tapers into the arm bevel.
  12. It's extremely hard to get a good picture but there is a really deep recurve where the carve meets the flat part of the body which looks really cool, I'm hoping that once I get a finish on it and get it in better light it becomes easier to see.
  13. I'm about palm gouged the hell out!! Got the other top carved, gonna carve the backs on Wednesday and then I'll move onto carving the necks.
  14. Thank you guys!! @Mr Natural I'm not sure that patience is the right word to use here lol. It has been extremely frustrating and I feel sorry for the words that my neighbors have had to here coming out of my shop lol. As for the split I haven't taken care of that yet, it's on the back and I'm still trying to picture the carve in my head. Hoping to get that done today or tomorrow.
  15. It looks really great Scott! Congrats on an awesome axe!