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steve1556

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Posts posted by steve1556

  1. On 5/8/2016 at 0:40 PM, Prostheta said:

    Good choices. Titebond I is infinitely better than II or III for a number of reasons (I'll write those up sometime) plus a shorter bit is far safer than a far longer one.

    The templates are looking good! Remember to spend some time letting your fingers read the consistency of the edges; any faults here will be transferred directly to the workpiece, so dialling in perfection now is planning for it later. :D

    I've seen a few videos on YouTube and a few articles online saying that the first version seems to be the best for guitar building, so I'm sticking with what the experts suggest!

    I've felt all the edges and they seem for the most par,t pretty smooth, There is a few bits on the inside of the templates that I need to tidy up a tiny bit. may use a small chisel for that, but I'll decide what to do when I get time to do more work on it.

    20 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said:

    If you have a thicker template, the longer router bit shouldn't be an issue as the bearing can still contact the top part of the thick mdf. You could also use shims under the template but that won't be as ideal as I found it harder to line up the template without it contacting the body.

    I'm planning on using a 15mm MDF sheet for the template, so if the bearing can be near the top of that, it will leave approximately 10mm for the cutting bit. Hopefully that won't be too much as I'm not massively keen on the idea of raising the template up.

    13 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    Have you looked for a spare 1/4" collet on the router?

    I thought of that idea while I was at work earlier! Thinking about it, if I can change the collet on the router, the smallest length bit I can find is 3/4", which if I placed the bearing at the top of the template, would leave about 5mm of the cutting blade being used. I'm going to attempt it with the 10mm, go slowly and hope it's fine. This is where I'm planning on using to scrap wood to check. If not, I'll look at either a new collet or a new router, but I'm not too keen on that route, especially if i can get away with the bit that I've got. Another cheaper way of getting around it could be using a much thicker template then the 15mm one that I'm currently planning to use.

    Small update, the wood arrived today! After a test fit, it seems like it's perfectly planed. I'm going to be going around to my dads tomorrow after work, and as he has a lot more space in his barn then I do in my garage, I'll probably try and glue and clamp it together then. I ended up getting 3 36" clamps instead of the intended 24" ones as the place only had 2 in stock. Also, this could do me well if I decide to build an oversized body in the future, I won't need to then buy new clamps.

     

    Here is the wood.....

    20160509_190352_zpsmq5f8zva.jpg

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  2. I wish I saw this post before buying some 3mm MDF to make new templates with! Thanks for linking to the guide, it's very helpful. I didn't even think about repairing it to be honest. Luckily I peeled off the paper templates very carefully and I managed to reuse them again on the 3mm sheet, and this time I cut a lot closer to the line with the jigsaw so I had a lot less to sand off. I found that working with the 3mm sheet was a lot easier and I found it strangely therapeutic as I was out in the garden, the sun was shining but it wasn't too hot (I hate summer!), and had my headphones in.

    The good news is that the initial templates are near enough done, I just need to cut out the trem cavity, but my drill press is only small so the drill bit wouldn't reach, so I need to get the normal drill out and drill a couple of holes. It's likely I won't be able to do it until Tuesday or Wednesday next week though.

    I'm a bit worried about my template router bit. It's got the bearing at the top, but the cutting bit it 1" long, and I'm wondering if it's too long to do the body with? I'm borrowing my dads router that uses 1/2 shank, but I'm struggling to find bits that are shorter, however, I'm finding bits that are shorter with a 1/4" shank, but that would mean buying a new router. Any insight on that would be a great help.

    Yesterday, I went shopping with a friend and he has recently gone from playing guitar to playing bass, and wanted another bass guitar (this is the friend mentioned in the first post who gave me a great deal on his Jim Root Tele, I'm planning on trying a bass build for him in the future.). I took this time in the shops to check out the Strats to help give me an idea of what to do, good job I left my credit card at home as I would have walked out with a gorgeous sea foam green Strat that played just as good as it looks! Back on topic, after we got back to his house, I checked out his bandsaw for when I cut the body. I need to get a new blade for it, and when looking at the specs of blade, I'm guessing TPI is teeth per inch. What would be a good amount for a rough body cutout on 44-45mm ash body blank?

    If things go well, I'm hoping to maybe start cutting the body out next weekend, at the latest, by Monday or Tuesday. I'm looking forward to it, but I'm very worried about messing it up, hence the reason I'm taking my time with this build and doing as much research as I can (this forum is a goldmine!). As I've never used a router before, I'm going to get some cheap wood (I'm going to try for some scraps, if not I'll probably go for Pine as it's cheap) so I can do some practice with the router before attacking the body blank.

    Onto the progress pics! 

    Cutting the body out, I used relief cuts for the inside of the body which helped massively.

    20160506_140657_zpstiv7iy5w.jpg

    Using the drill press to do the pilot holes for the jigsaw in the cavities. The drill press is only a small hobby one for when I drill the enclosures of my own effect pedals. Sorry about the mess, now it's warmer the garage is going to have a big clear out. You can also see the laser cutter (cheap Chinese one that I massively upgraded) and the ovens that I use for powder coating my effect pedals.

    20160506_141204_zpsjqp7ifs1.jpg

    The pilot holes all drilled.

    20160506_141319_zpsmwhzdgx3.jpg

    Templates more of less done (apart from the trem cavity).

    20160506_145651_zps49fr8dil.jpg

    The glue has arrived!

    20160506_150027_zpsqjt2ordu.jpg

    The router bit I mentioned above.

    20160506_153741_zpsnfqptje0.jpg

     

  3. Tried to finish up the templates today, and the initial cut with the jigsaw wasn't close enough to the line. I was trying to sand it down using p60 sand paper wrapped around a bit of wood, for the most part it was going well, then tried the jigsaw again to take some bigger parts off, and managed to cut into the template a few times (I'm also not sure that I've made the neck pocket too big now). I've decided to throw them in the bin, and tomorrow morning I'll get some 3mm MDF and try them again, but this time I'll make sure to use the jigsaw much closer to the line. An oscillating sander would make life a lot easier right now!

    I picked up the clamps yesterday, hopefully the wood and glue will be here shortly as well.

  4. Thanks for that, helps to explain the wood and what happens to it. I've ordered the wood from a company on eBay, and just realised that I've seen them mentioned somewhere else (can't remember if it was on here or somewhere else when i was researching bits) and they were recommended for guitar blanks.  If anyone is interested it's Sherwin Group, although they don't advertise them on their website, they do them at good prices if you contact them apparently. When the wood arrives, I'm planning on leaving it a couple of days just to make sure.

    In the meantime, this picture is from last week when I mounted the templates onto the MDF (although I think I should have used 3mm rather then 6mm MDF from what I've now read), but I'll see how I get on with this, worse case scenario is that it takes me a little bit longer to do it.

    20160422_095649_zpsmezntcc7.jpg

    Last year I assembled a Tele Partscaster, turned out rather well, which has caused this project to happen. I'm a sucker for flame and quilted maple tops! It's fitted with Seymour Duncan Hot Rails, but I made a mistake on installing them and the screws wouldn't fit so had to use some bolts. The pictures were taken before the intonation was setup.

    20160413_151250_zps3u1iweej.jpg

    20160413_151256_zpsft6lfysk.jpg

    Also, a couple of years ago i found my old BC Rich Warlock in the garage halfway through an awful paint job that I started well over 10 years ago then forgot about. I've just started to assemble it back together even though I repainted it a couple of years ago now, and will be done soon hopefully. I'll be working on this between the various stages of the Strat build.

    20160409_205018_zps8ed7iig9.jpg

  5. On 5/1/2016 at 11:07 PM, 2.5itim said:

    I don't know if it's available in your neck of the woods but i use titebond original wood glue. 

     As for the clamps I have a couple of those that you posted and I don't really use them much, personally to me I just don't feel like I can get the pressure I want by squeezing. I use mostly f clamps that you twist to get pressure and G clamps. 

    I love a nice piece of ash, even tho I have had my troubles with it lately I still find it to be a nice wood to work with, except I hate the smell of it while being cut. 

    I've just been on Google, looks like I can get hold of Titebond, but nowhere near me stocks it so I'll have to order it online. I'm waiting on the wood to arrive so it isn't an issue though, 

    I did try the clamps in the shop with my finger and they seemed to apply a lot of pressure, but I do realise that gluing wood would take a lot more pressure than squashing my finger. I found these clamps, and they have a local store to me that has them in stock clamps. One thing that I'm wondering is would 2 or 3 clamps be best to hold the wood?

     

    On 5/2/2016 at 7:08 AM, a2k said:

    It was way more than 4 sheets! :)

     

    Looks like near enough a whole tree! Great way of printing the design out at home though!

     

    On 5/2/2016 at 9:42 AM, curtisa said:

    Clamps with a screwing action will be better suited to joining two halves of a body blank - F-clamps, sash clamps, pipe clamps etc. They will likely be more expensive than the Quickgrips, but you may be able to borrow a couple from other woodworker associates you may know.

    A potentially cheap source for woodworking paraphernalia are second hand stores, community markets and car boot sales.

    I have no experience with any of those glues, but the Gorilla Glue sounds the most similar to water-proof PVA of the three, which in turn sounds the most similar to the glues typically used by the guitar-building community. You'd have to experiment with it a bit before committing it to a final glue joint. I've used similar water-proof PVA glues in the past which gripped OK but dried slightly rubbery, which made cleaning up the dried glue joint difficult. Titebond Original is available in the UK for similar prices as the Gorilla Glue and is widely considered ideal for guitar construction.

    Thanks for the input, I've given my intentions relating to the advice in the reply above. I've found some new clamps which I think would be better suited and I've found that I can buy the Titebond in the UK. Regarding the glue, especially as it's my first build, I'd rather stick with tried and tested glues rather then choosing the wrong glue and messing everything up.

    I'm also thinking that with these clamps that I've found being quite adjustable, I could also use them for cluing the neck parts together. As it's my first build, I'm planing on using a 1 piece neck, most likely Maple but I'll see nearer the time on whats available. Also, for the body wood, I've read that I should leave it for a few days before gluing it together in case it bends slightly and needs planing again, so it's likely the body won't be glued until sometime next week.

  6. Thanks for replies and the advice, it's greatly appreciated. 

    Curtisa - I thought that would be the case, but thought of it as maybe an easier and quicker way to do it. I'll carry on with the jigsaw method on Tuesday as I'm busy all day tomorrow. I'll also go and invest in some more files. I'm a little bit worried about not having a straight edge around the outside as most videos I've seen use an oscillating sander, which I don't have.

    I'm also planing on making my own neck, as there is no point in doing half a job, so yes, I'll need some clamps at some point, was just trying to keep costs down this month due to the new guitars.

    For the clamps, would these be ok (but in a bigger size) clamp

    I've just ordered a 2 piece body blank, would either of these glues be ok glue1 glue2 glue3

    A2K - I think I got a rasp from my dad, I'll double check though and get one if I haven't as it will definitely help with the arm rest and body cut out on the back.

    I was lucky in the fact that a local print shop made 2 copies of the guitar plans that I got as they had a printer/scanner big enough to do it. I've cut the bodies out of the 2 copies and used them on the MDF, but if I ever get to a point where I would like to design my own body, using the 4 sheet method as you';ve described is definitely a good option.

    When you say about the tool libraries, we have a thing here called Make Space, where you pay a small monthly fee, but you can use all of their equipment after being trained to use it safely. I signed up to one a few years ago so I could use their laser cutter, had all the training on it, but I never received my access card for the building (it was available to use 24/7). After about 2 months of trying to contact them (with no luck), I went to the building to speak to one of the guys running it, I had to ask another member to let me in. The guy I spoke to was extremely annoyed by this because I didn't have a door card, and banned me from the building (despite having already paid for 2 months membership already by this point). Long story short, they kept taking my membership fees and wouldn't cancel the direct debit, and the bank had an issue canceling it, and I ended up being £880 out of pocket because of the debits. So because of this, I'm very reluctant to join another style scheme again. The idea of retired guys with loads of tools didn't cross my mind, and if I need it I'll look on the local Facebook groups for them.

     

    Not much of an update here, but I've got the body wood ordered. I've got for a 2 piece Ash body.

  7. Hey guys, quick introduction, I've been building guitar pedals for a fair few years now and feel like I need a new challenge. I've also never been into Strats but recently I've really been wanting one lately (but having just bought both the Kramer Pacer Satchel Models, and a new bass guitar for a friend in return for his Fender Jim Root Tele) the credit card bill is a bit high and I can't justify paying off 4 guitars on it! So, long story short, I've decided to try my hand at building a 60's style Strat, with the plan that if I enjoy it, to then look at putting myself on a guitar building course.

    Because of this, my tools will be slightly limited as I don't want to buy too many if I'm not going to use them again. The good news is that my dad has a router (I've ordered a new set of bits for it), orbital sander, belt sander and at least 1 good file which I have borrowed, and I have full use of his barn if the weather is bad and I need a workshop area. I've got a jigsaw, but my friend has a band saw that I can use if I get it a new blade as his current one is past it's best. The plan is to build as much as I possibly can from scratch, so if I do a guitar building course, I will know which areas to have the most amount of help on. I've ordered the plans from Crimson Guitars, and made a couple of copies of it, then cut the bodies out and stuck them down to 6mm MDF. I've drawn around them as well just in case the paper moves, and started to cut them out using the jigsaw. Unfortunately I don't have a oscillating sander as per the many YouTube videos that I've watched, so I'm either going to cut close to the line and then finish it with sand paper, or try very carefully with the router, not sure what's the best idea. After the template is finished, I'll transfer it onto a 15mm MDF sheet for the actual guitar template, which I'll hopefully get done tomorrow. I have a laser cutter I could use for the templates, but the cutting area is 300x200mm which isn't big enough for a guitar body unfortunately, but I may design fret inlay templates using it.

    I'm after a classic Strat tone, so I was thinking of using ash, but it needs gluing so I'll need to buy some clamps. I've found a blank made a sapele, same price as the ash but it's in 1 piece. If I got that then I don't need to buy clamps and glue, but will it still be easy to work with and the same kind of sound? I've just started trying to read up about different tonewood properties.

     

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