Jump to content

Entry for September 2018's Guitar Of The Month is open!


GOTY Winner
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Skyjerk last won the day on October 10

Skyjerk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

94 Excellent

1 Follower

About Skyjerk

  • Rank
    Working stiff
  • Birthday 12/01/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chester County, PA
  • Interests
    Guitar building/playing, skydiving, motorcycles
  • Country Flag

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Skydiving doesn't feel like that. Not even a little. That stomach sinking, "falling" sensation you get on roller coasters is caused by changing directions and acceleration simultaneously. Cresting a hill, you (and your "innards") are going up and you are decelerating, drop off the other side and you're going down and accelerating propelled by the car you are held into. Your innards want to keep going up because of inertia. The car and gravity want your innards to go down. Its the struggle between the opposing forces that cause those sensations In skydiving theres no abrupt change of direction or acceleration. When you exit the aircraft youre already going 90-100 MPH forward, You then transition to downward movement in an arc (we call this arc "the hill") as your forward motion gradually becomes downward. You only accelerate by about 10-20 MPH more and thats over the space of about 10 seconds pulled only by gravity. You dont even notice that. try accelerating in your car to 20 MPH over 10 seconds and tell me if you feel anything. I'll bet not I have gotten that feeling slightly when jumping from a hot air balloon and a helicopter, but this is because you are essentially motionless at the start. You go from 0 - 120 MPH in 8 or 9 seconds, but even then its in one direction and only accelerating at the speed gravity pulls you (9.7536 m / s2) so that feeling is barely noticeable. You tend to be more focused on other things at the time Anyhoo, its a pretty safe sport if you practice it safely. Ive been doing it 29 years. Tore a muscle in my leg once, but healed up in a few weeks. Tore my right rotator cuff (minor) only 2 weeks ago from what amounts to the least graceful landing I've ever had. It'll heal. So two minor injuries in 29 years. Not a bad safety record
  2. interesting build. It'll turn out well. The omen is that my very first parachute was called a "Cloud Delta" and it always got me safely to the ground
  3. Skyjerk

    Couldn't resist - new project

    Sweet. Theres something about that shape that reminds me of something, only I have no idea what. Not a guitar, but something. I like it Neck-through always a winner in my book, too
  4. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    So, final update till I sand, buff, and assemble this baby. The top of the body and top of the headstock are good to go until final sanding and buffing since they will be a high gloss. They will get wet sanded and buffed out after a few more weeks of hardening, but as previously indicated, I decided I wanted a satin finish for the back, sides, neck, and the sides and back of the headstock Yesterday I dry sanded the entire back, sides, and neck with 600 grit until it was perfectly flat and smooth. I took some serious time with this because after shooting the satin lacquer those areas are done. No sanding or buffing those areas so they have to be absolutely perfect before you shoot, and you also have to be perfect with your spraying. The finish needs to be evenly applied and perfectly with NO SAGS, GAPS, or RUNS or you have to let it dry, re-sand the area, and re-shoot. anyhoo, I had some anxiety about it because I've only done satin before on a couple Strat necks which are a lot smaller BUT now I'm on the other side and it turned out perfect. Exactly what I hoped. So the good news for me is that in a few weeks all I need to wet sand and buff is the top of the body and headstock, and those are pretty damn flat already, so I should be able to make short work of those areas. Ignore the cover not sitting flat. I made that to tight tolerances, and the lacquer shrunk the recess just enough to keep it from dropping in. The lacquer will shrink a bit more over the next few weeks and will hopefully drop right in at that point, but if I have to do a bit of light sanding to the edge of the cover thats no big deal. Its unfinished so it'll be about 3 minutes worth of work to fit it.
  5. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Do not use just any generic paint or lacquer thinner. Some will work for your product and some will ruin it Again, read the manufacturers instructions on what thinner to use for their product.
  6. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    By "top coat" I simply mean whatever you use as your final finish. In the case of this guitar I used aniline dyes for color on the wood, then simtec sanding sealer to seal it in, followed by toner in the form of sprayed on nitro tinted with medium brown, and finally just clear nitro. So the simtec is my sealer, the tinted nitro is my base coat, and the clear nitro is my top coat. I'm not very familiar with polyurethane coatings, but I believe they can (should) be wet sanded just like nitro, to remove orange peel, ripples, scratches, etc. I'm about 99% sure that you would not be able to shoot nitro on top of poly even if you had access to it. Different coatings can react badly with each other, or just not adhere well to each other and end up delaminating. If its not a catalyzed coating like 2K, (im assuming yours is wipe on or brush on) you should be able to apply more after wet sanding it, however it may be too viscous to settle out flat and leave brush marks, etc. I thin my final coat significantly so that it flows out nice and flat, I dont know if your product can be thinned or what it should be thinned with. You should be able to get all that information, if not from the label, then from google searches or contact the manufacturer, or look on their website. If your poly is thick enough to sand flat without sanding through to the wood, you probably dont actually need anything else. I cant say if 7 coats is thick enough yet or not. Its hard to say without knowing anything about your particular product. In my case I used 6 coats of Mohawk nitro. When I was using Behlen nitro I did 10 or 12 coats because Mohawk has a higher content of solids than Behlen, and builds faster and so requires less coats to achieve the same thickness. I've seen people achieve awesome finishes with brushed on poly, so you are probably going to be fine. Just do some research in places like this and other guitar building forums and ask questions about your specific product. I can almost guarantee there's people out there that can speak with authority about your particular type of coating and give you good advice.
  7. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    What are you using for a top coat? i used nitrocellulose lacquer, sprayed on with Iwata HVLP gun. Mohawk piano lacquer is my go-to producT. given that a sprayed top coat with any significant build will have some degree of orange peel that will need to be wet sanded flat once it's fully hardened. You can save yourself significant wet sanding by fully leveling it before you shoot your final coat like I described above. in a month I will wet sand the whole surface until it's perfectly smooth, starting at 800 grit. I will then repeat the entire process with 1200 grit until all the scratches from the 800 are completely gone. Following that i will buff it on my buffer with medium compound, and then again with fine compound, and finish with swirl remover. At that point it will be glass smooth and have a hard, mirror finish. generally, people that don't have a buffer will continue up through finer and finer grits with the wet sanding going as high as 2500 or even 3000 grit. Thats pretty much SOP with gloss nitro. It's never done with shooting the finish as the final step unless it's a satin finish. In my case, I'll be dry sanding the sides and back flat this weekend with 800 and shooting satin clear. For those areas that will in fact be the final step, but it has to be perfect
  8. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Thank you very much i’m very happy with the way it’s turning out. The big challenge now is simply dealing with the wait while the lacquer hardens
  9. This is awesome I've always wanted to try an acoustic build, but keep finding reasons to put it off. In reality I'm just chicken. Its a whole different animal than a solid body electric. No matter how good my electrics are, I'll never consider myself a luthier until I can build acoustics...
  10. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Just a different shot showing off the shape of the top. Very minor ripples and orange peel remain at this point and should wet sand flat with minimal effort. When shooting, I give the last build coats a full day to harden and then sand them flat using my random orbital sander and a 600 grit sanding disk. This literally takes maybe 5 minutes. Then shoot a final coat of clear thats thinned a lot so that it flows out nice and flat, and completely fills the scratches left by the 600 grit sanding. This 5 minutes of work at this stage saves hours of wet sanding in a month since I've already removed 98% of the orange peel. Also, I decided to finish the back and sides with a satin rather than the entire guitar being high gloss. the gloss will remain on the tops of the body and headstock.
  11. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    This was news to me, so I decided to look into this because I had never heard this said before, and I honestly didnt know. According to the manufacturer "TransTint® Dyes are a solution of metal-complex dyes in a special solvent". Another source says "TransTints are formulated from light stable metallized acid dyes" Aniline is apparently an organic compound. based on this, I dont think transtint is aniline, but I cant find any information that specifically says it is or is not, so while I'm leaning toward "not", I wouldn't be prepared to place a wager on it
  12. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Thanks! It IS luscious, isnt it? That's a good word for it I honestly didnt expect it to turn out as nice as it did. I surprised myself
  13. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Yep. I shoot 3 coats with 20 minutes in between them, and I clean the gun between each coat. I dont do a full disassemble, but I throw some acetone in the cup and give it a good swirl, open the mix all the way up till its flowing out nicely through the nozzle, then pull off the nozzle and air cap and swirl them around in a jar of acetone. Its a fairly cursory, 3 minute cleanup. Then I have a smoke or hit the head, then reassemble, mix the next batch, and shoot again. After the 3rd coat I do a full-on cleaning. Its a pain, but you DONT want any of it to kick while its still in the gun. I really dont enjoy that part at all, and its also smelly The results make it worth the hassle
  14. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    Oh, and I dont use my good gun to shoot this product. I use a cheap harbour freight gun with a big aperture. 1.8 or 2.0 mm. I clean up with acetone immediately after shooting it. Do NOT let it harden in the gun or you'll end up with junk. Its fairly viscous. If you use it you'll also notice a slight pinkish color to it. This does NOT affect the color of the surface you're spraying. Ive shot it over bare wood and different color stained wood and other than the darkening you would expect when spraying anything on wood, no discernible change in the tint or color of the underlying surface. Its just like if youd sprayed lacquer on it.
  15. Skyjerk

    New Magnum build

    That is the stuff. One caveat. Its very sticky and overspray that might float around will land on stuff and stick, including yourself. Nitro is easy because by the time the teeny particles land on things its already dried, and brushes right off like dust. Not this stuff. Its catalyzed, so it hardens in its own time depending on how much catalyst you add. So, the rule of thumb when I spray it is to cover anything in my shop with sheets or drop cloths.