simon1138

Hello, I was trying to take down a bit of wood on the back of my first neck and went too hard with the rasp. there is a split and the truss rod showing. Will this cause issues or just an asthetic issue? How could I fix it? Thanks

Hello, I have had problems cutting a scarf joint. After trying a bandsaw and that pain in the A**, chopsaw method that requires a purpose built jig, jig made for handsaw. I have not tried using a table saw and don't want to either. This is my method and in my opinion, far better, more basic. It requires a clean up of the cuts but that is the same with most other methods. I don't know why I did not try this to start. Thanks, All the best, Simon

Hello I have a wrap around bridge from a BC Rich I want to fit to my guitar. Does this bridge need to be fitted at an angle? It has a screw either end to adjust distance from the post which I assume helps with intonation and I don't remember seeing an angle on the Warlock I took the bridge from. Also, where is the centre line or intonation point for the bridge? Is it the centre of the post holes? Thanks Simon

Hello, I bought a 16" radius sanding block which I have tried to use on a maple fretboard using 60 grit red oxide paper. It took a while to get almost there, not quite finished. I stopped and thought that maybe a router jig would be better. So I looked at router jigs, had a go at one and failed because I didn't quite think it through. I have tried again and a little closer but still I would like to know how long it takes to sand to a 16" radius, and, is there a particular method. I did think about using the planer to take down the edges a bit. Obviously the router jig would do a great job with that. I don't mind the hard work, its just preferable to have a quicker method. Thanks Simon One year on and still not completed a guitar!?!

hello, not sure i understand what you mean, that much inaccuracy?

Hello Bizman62 Thanks for the response. The neck at the moment is not shaped, as in, cut from 43mm to 57mm, it is straight. I attach the fretboard to the template using the super glue and masking tape method. I checked to make sure that the edges of the wood match up with the template edges by butting them with the metal square. This is the most accurate that I can get them. The first cut is the nut edge which is the same as all the other fret slots. I have tried to cut them all the same by butting the saw against the edge of my made square. So in theory the nut will sit against the edge of a wonky cut the same as all the frets. Then it would be the bridge, which has adjustable fender style saddles. I am assuming that shouldn't be a problem.

Hello I bought a chicken bone john fret slotting template and made a small square that fits into the template so I can cut the fret. However, when checking the square, it is not that square. I am comparing it to an engineering square, Moore and Wright is think is the brand. It looks slightly off. So the question is how much accuracy, I know that 100% is best but is this fret board a complete right off. I don't know how bad it would be to continue to use it.

Hello, I bought two pre slotted maple fret boards from a chinese site, I think it was banggood? I did not check them when I got them as I assumed they were good. Now, some months later I have taken the wrap off and noticed that they are either radiused slightly, on the wrong side or, they are not radiused (which would make sense) and the other side has a bow! I have tried to remove the bow and had no luck as my plane is struggling to cut maple and I dont want the hassle of mucking about with planing the wood. I have checked a fret slotting template against the scale of the fret board and they are not lined up properly. I have one complete neck I bought from ebay (banana headstock style) that fretboard matches the two dodgy ones exactly for fret spacing. neither match the 25.5 inch scale of the template. I have measured from the nut to the 12th fret and all three say 324mm I am not sure what is going on? I dont want to mention the name of the template maker, and english man that I believe I can trust more than the chinese necks. but the necks are consistant with their measurements. not sure what is going on here. What could I do about the bow in the fretboard? everystep in this is a nightmare, started a year ago and still not completed a single guitar!

Hello I have tried to read about cnc machines on various websites and got nowhere. Please could I get some advice from you experienced people on building a cnc machine and making one of adequate size to cut templates from 10mm (max) and possibly the backs of guitar necks. I have not tried making a neck yet and shaping is something I dread. I have some experience with electronics and programming. I can learn those things when I need to. I am more concerned with overall size of machine and size/type of motors. I have a katsu palm router and I see similar things used as the cutting tool. I have experience with arduino from my HNC electronics course. What would be the maximum size of the machine (approx) if i just wanted to make basic body and neck templates? Thanks Simon

Hello I bought some of this varnish from toolstation and it is not really that hardened the finish. I could easily scratch off the varnish and the paint. I did water it a little so I could spray it. I put on a few layers. It is annoying that I am getting close to finishing my guitar and keep hitting a wall. Is there a particular way to apply a varnish. I have been using my electric hvlp gun. I can scratch off the varnish and the paint to the black undercoat. I could do the same with the laquer I bought from lidls. I think it must be the way I am applying it. Please help. Thanks Simon

i am making a youtube video to try and show how i did it. i will try the thinner top layer and see what happens. i do like the violent crackles!!!

Hello all! I have been mucking about trying to get the crackle glaze to work on my guitar and finally managed it. I wanted to show the results and I am pleased with myself. It is actually straight forward really, paint on the glaze and wait for it to harden (over a base coat of your choice) then, spray on the top coat. I don't think that the thickness of the top coat matters that much. After spraying, apply heat. I used a fan with heat function. After about ten minutes I got my result. Pink instead of red, I wanted to dye the white emulsion with red acrylic and gave up. I used the pink as an experiment that seems to have worked out ok.

bizman what class did you do? thanks for the help. i will see how it goes

Hello, I have finished(?) painting my guitar and now decided to go with polyurethane spray can finish. I gave it a coat and left it to dry which didn't seem to take too long. It does feel slightly tacky and as though there may be some orange peel. What is best here? I have looked around and one video says 1000 grit wetted paper to sand in a circular motion? I read the instructions on the can which don't mention sanding between coats. It mentions a few layers of thin coats with 20-30 minutes between coats. Does not mention sanding or grit of paper. what can i expect from this spray can polyurethane? I pressed my thumbnail into it and chipped off a bit of paint. I keep hitting a wall. There seems to be conflicting information about how to do things. For now I want a guitar to play so this one is going to get built. What is the best thing I can do to get a finish without taking off the current polyurethane and starting again. Please don't mention buying stuff from stewmac. Thanks Simon

Hello Drak, Thanks for the response. Emulsion in the UK is called "latex" in the states, I believe. However, I am no longer interested in spraying emulsion, I have tried it and do not like the results. I tried the emulsion as I thought that being thick it would fill small scratches and dents. I thought that primer would do this also. I would like to build and provide a surface to adhere to. The primer mentions filling pores which is one thing that drew my attention. Something to help the paint stick is also good. I would like to use water based products as they seems cheaper and easier to work with. Easier to thin as well. I have the paints that I want to use. They are cheap ready mixed water based paints for kids. They seem to do a good enough job for now. I am not pro, still very much in the learning stage. So I don't want to spend a lot of money on things that will just end up ruined. I have just sprayed a body with black paint, this cost £2 for a good size bottle. The way it goes on it will last me a few guitars. This is good for me. So yeah, build and adhesion. Forget the emulsion/latex, it is messy and awkward. Thanks again Simon