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StratsRdivine last won the day on September 19

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About StratsRdivine

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    Dr Dichro

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  1. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    Pretty fine. Got me interested, as I likely have the most exposure on this forum, and need to be wary, but for occasional use, I wouldnt worry about silicosis, especially when using a respirator or just not inhaling when mixing this stuff "Brief or casual exposure to low levels of crystalline silica dust are said to not produce clinically significant lung disease" from Wikipedia.
  2. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    Its hard to overfill epoxy. When I fill the back of my quilted carbon fiber, I mix in glass microspheres (glass bubbles) to displace volume (cutting cost of expensive epoxy) and act as a sanding aid. I add as much as 150 to 200% by volume. Then the epoxy acts like morter around the "bricks". Then add cab-o-sil, of course to thicken it more so it spreads like frosting. You would have to add a lot of pigment to degrade the properties. One trick is to mix in to capacity, then heat it gently, which wets out the pigment. Then it flows better, bonds better, but apply it before it kicks.
  3. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    Pouring epoxy as pour-in-place binding is what I would do too. The real trick to keeping pigments suspended without settling is to mix in Cab-O-sil, as a thickening (Thixotropic) agent. This works great in epoxy, and many epoxy mfr's sell it as the primary thickening agent, although may not reveal the common name, mostly known as cab-o-sil, which is finely ground fumed silica powder. Add enough and the mixture won't even pour. Add just the right amount and your pigment will stay in suspension fine without settling. It does tend to add a tiny amount of opacity, making it slightly white.
  4. Waaayyy cool!! Almost looks like dyed Sapele or another figured wood. That is not quilt figure, though, sorry. Its actually mottle grain, similar to Bee's wing mottle, where its a combination of ribbon stripe (where the grain spirals around the circumference of the tree, then switches direction every rainy season (every 12mm to 30mm, radially) for the tree to grow stronger when piercing the canopy), and flame/curl - but wider waves. Not at all quilt, which is buckling compression wood (or fungus - noone really knows), resulting in quilt billows - no spiral grain, as north american woods aren't as tall, and don't need to pierce any canopy, thus not needing interlocked spiral grain (ribbonstripe).
  5. Holy Crap, if you could eat exotic wood, this thread should get a Michelin star. You gotta send closeup pics of that figured ebony - amazing. Never saw that before. If you ever want a seriously figured carbon fiber fingerboard, I will be introducing solid 4mm figured fingerboards in about two months. The one below is epoxy filled face for the cast-in-place inlays, but my latest panels are solid with figure running the whole way through, regardless how deep the radius is sanded. Fret slots cut great with diamond blades.
  6. Finally got a break to start working again on the first ever figured carbon fiber guitar. Blinding the frets day. I pulled my laser out of focus to "cut" U-shaped grooves in the clamping caul for epoxying them in. Cast-in-place Dichrolam inlays is also a first ever.
  7. Here is a recent video showing the quilt in 3D - skip to end, but the previous info gives context. BTW - I just shipped a quilted CF panel 14 x 21 to Ron Thorn. Ever heard of Thorn Guitars? Test video (Kickstarter) showing products leading up to the quilted CF
  8. Quick mockup pic of the CF guitar to send to someone Steve met with huge connections (Steven Tyler, Nuno Bettencourt, etc). Waiting for the Wenge neck to get finish shaped so I can glue on the CF fingerboard. Then on to epoxy in frets, cut and buff, setup and go to stage.
  9. 3D Acrylic / dichroic inlay guitar builds

    Evidently, Nuno Bettencourt saw Steve's performance at the sold out Escape concert Tuesday on video, and asked about the cool guitar he was playing. Steve just sent him several pics and the new carbon fiber body and fingerboard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ_6LJi6Lvs Here is video that shows the 3D effect of the quilt figure in acrylic and carbon fiber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93KzPSzuF1E
  10. Copper Patina Pickguards - Best clear coat?

    Those are pretty cool. Automotive 2K urethane is the all around go to finish for stuff like that - higher adhesion than nitro, UV blockers to retain color, buffs to high gloss, or lays down perfect if sprayed right, solvent resistant, and more scratch resistant than anything - you need that in a pickguard. one gallon is usually minimum order (70 bucks), so you need to use it up, as the hardener can go bad. I buy one gallon 4:1 ratio, and buy pint hardener when I need it as I use up the urethane. If you don't spray, then pour it on, and pour it off, then hold level.
  11. 3/4 strat project

    Thanks, Carl! True, that the most common acrylic you will buy is extruded, which can work fine for most things, even pickgaurds, as long as you do not apply alcohol to any edge that has been heated (machine sanding, flame polishing, etc.). Face should be fine. I would sand the side you need the marbling to bond to, for better adhesion. Acrylic is hard to get adhesion to, unless methylene chloride is added to the paint (which would flash off anyway, not useful). or solvent cement is the actual paint binder. True also that cast acrylic will sand easier, and will be more resistant to alcohol, but also more resistant to paint bond. The cracking issue is likely your biggest challenge when drilling screw holes. You need light pressure with sharper angle "pointy" bits, then light pressure and really slow RPM's when countersinking. All bits need to be really sharp.
  12. ProjectGuitar.com CAD plans and the .DXF format

    A word of slight warning in case any of you want to try BobCad. Its a professional level CAD software that is designed for machine shops, but if you buy it, BobCad will hound you incessantly with promo emails, and call you incessantly by numerous sales people. Personally, I found QCAD to be so intuitive, that I self-learned it in one weekend, in order to send huge sheets of SST for laser cutting. The dxf format has never given me any issues when I send dxf files out for waterjet, laser, and CNC machining, as I do quite a bit of exotic fabricating of composites, glass, SST, plastics, etc. All for fifty bucks download from Ribbonsoft. I'm sure TurboCad is just as easy, yet there has not been a drawing I cannot do yet - it has all the features one would want for 2D cad. When I need to laser cut my fingerboards, I used the StewMac fret position calculator, input the measurments into QCAD, then cut a template on my laser, and it lines up perfectly against a Strat neck. Tons of uses for luthiery.
  13. 335 style build....

    +1 on mind blown with that (not so) hidden imagery.
  14. 24 Magnum

    I will be doing a set neck guitar soon, so I plan to mount a steel pin coming out of the butt strap lock and a threaded rod pin angling out of one of the tuner holes in the neck,(which would have expanding rubber bushing or two nuts and barely shouldered washers), so that the whole length would spin like a pig on a spit. Less tasty, but more shiny pig.
  15. yea, unfortunately this is just the beginning of birth pangs. Gotta get enough interest generated at NAMM and through my architectural reps to warrant the real patent filing in a year, and hopefully find investors to help with the 20 grand needed. But when I see Steve Raz play my guitar every weekend, it all seems worth it.