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charisjapan

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charisjapan last won the day on August 8

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About charisjapan

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    Established Member

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    Yokohama, Japan
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    Wife sez too many!
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    jp

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  1. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Epoxied the rods in, and made a "point press" to hold the rods down. (Last neck I almost had a terrible mess when a few bubbles pushed the rods up. Fortunately, I caught it before it set, and pushed the rods down with bamboo sticks ... and some of the bamboo is buried under the fretboard) Sure enough, the next morning there we a few bubbles ... on top of the rods (this time), which were seated firmly in their channels. Removed the tape and a few swipes with a card scraper got the neck ready for fretboard.
  2. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    I will be epoxying the carbon fiber rods (these have a round hole in a rectangular rod, manufacturer says nearly as strong as solid) in soon, but before that wanted to flatten the headstock from15.5mm to 13.5mm. While I was at it, it thought I'd give it a small (1.5 degree?) angle to give me a bit more break angle on D and G strings. Also, the neck had twisted a bit ... just like the other Padauk neck, I waited this long, resurfaced, then straightened, THEN add the rods. Worked well on the Limba Six, so should be okay. Elbow tendinitis is flaring up again, so will have to slow down a bit.
  3. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Started a bit on the neck, not shown, but leveled and smoothed the top using card scraper and a #7 plane with 3M sandpaper stuck to it. Next was to get basic carve of heel and headstock transition using a dragon rasp and card scrapers.
  4. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Slash Template! Front is the "idealized" pointy version, and the backside shows what it will be with a 3.2mm (1/8") router bit in the Dremel tool. If I really want to make the edges sharp, I guess freehand with files is a possibility. Another that comes to mind is re-positioning the template, and using my 0.6mm fret bits. Can cross that bridge when I get there.
  5. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    On to the pickup! I was just gonna rout for pickup and screw the ring into the body. (will no longer call it "ring"" or "plate" ... being solid brass, I think "bezel" sounds better!) Somehow, just didn't like that ... looks a bit clunky on this guitar. So made a template for the BEZEL and a pickup rout, and then tested on a scrap of thin maple. The bezel is 3mm thick, so routed down 2mm, hopefully making it look more "on purpose" than surface mount.
  6. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Forget the black paper idea. Just found some tracing paper and outlined the natural grain lines, then used them as a guide. Not totally sure about what I drew here ... the bottom of the slash will probably be more in line with the upper horn shape and angle. I think I'm getting close to final shape and location. Please note I'm not very artistic, this is the first time I've ever really tried to do anything artsy.
  7. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Not sure if this will work, but thinking about following the natural wood for the soundhole ... something akin the Ric 300 series slash. This is just a horrible MSPaint drawing, but will make a few black paper cutouts before deciding the final shape. Gotta be able to see at least a little bit of the interior!
  8. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Had another WHAT?!?!?! moment ... laid the LMI Ebony fretboard on the neck and the neck was WAY too long ... until I looked at the label and saw it was pre-slotted to 22 frets, not the 24 frets I was measuring to. This picture doesn't show the board in the correct position, just showing the proposed position of the pickup. Phew!
  9. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    But! The neck fit tight, but was binding a bit ... I found that I had cut the neck about 1mm too short! So took the cutoff, routed a radius, then glued it on and recut. I other words, added a 1mm shim. Under the fretboard, you won't see anything, so happy ... but not happy about another mistake. Neck fits without binding, and the scale is spot-on. Sigh
  10. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Again using recessed M5 threaded receptacles, but knocked a two of the prongs off ... two do the job, and they will be epoxied along with the carbon fiber rods later. Pressed in just fine. Instead of using a bolt, I cut an M5 rod, then used another hex-wrench threaded receptacle ... this helps counter the slight (0.525 degree) top plane. Both receptacles sit flush and tight.
  11. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Topside, bridge positioned correctly, through-holes go through, ground wire hole goes where it should. Neck pocket operation went well, still gotta go down another 2mm, but can't get 35mm (11mm template + 24mm pocket depth) with this bit. Will finish depth another day. But the pocket is reasonably tight and very, very straight ... no noticeable deviation from centerline. Yay!
  12. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    No plug, no terror (of severely botched job or severe bodily harm), and easy-peasy! Nearly forgot about this "option!" Took it down to 0.1mm ... should be flush (or thereabouts) after paint.
  13. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Sigh ... Half millimeter shallow. That's it for today.
  14. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Here's a few pics of my parts choices (again). Seymour Duncan Pro Shop Vintage Stack for Tele STKT-1N ... noiseless vintage output. I have used this in a Tele, and like it! Allparts USA PC 5763-003 Pickup ring for Tele, black powdercoat over solid brass. HipShot 6 String Fixed Guitar Bridge (aka Hardtail), chromed brass Solid brass string retainer block from @Juliusjahnmaker on FB HipShot Chrome O-Ring Knobs Montreux Electrosocket, chromed brass
  15. charisjapan

    Chinaberry Six

    Checked neck alignment and treble "e" saddle location, and it's looking good. Used the bevel template to mark the top and also neck pocket and pickup location.
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