Jump to content

Entry for June 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open!
ENTER HERE!

charisjapan

Established Member
  • Content count

    288
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

charisjapan last won the day on June 8

charisjapan had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

121 Excellent

About charisjapan

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Yokohama, Japan
  • Interests
    Wife sez too many!
  • Country Flag
    jp

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Still wet from the fourth coat of cleat, the grain is filled, but after an hour there are still a few sunken spots (and a few drips ). After the next wet sanding and fifth coat, I will just drop fill if necessary, as this urethane drop fills quite nicely.
  2. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    A few random shots. My painting booth , a drip to show how much amber in the clear, and a selfie
  3. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Hmmm ... A Radiused Mt. Fuji sounds like a good idea!
  4. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Been chewing on this all day ... couldn't imagine a need or desire for thicker headstocks. This one looks so much nicer and the rather short-post Hipshots now are more than just nubs. Then, it hit me! Recessed bushings is a good idea!! Too late for this one, but will surely consider next guitar . Might even bevel my Mt. Fuji headstock to give a bit more 3-D . The other "thick headstock" idea that hit me was for bass guitars. Why'n the world are the Hipshot Ultralight posts so long?! With the slots, there's little reason to wrap so many winds, but unless you put 4 or so winds around the post, the break angle at the nut is about 0-degrees. My Chinaberry bass has a 14mm headstock, and the Hipshot tuners are 25mm from the back of the tuner body to the post notch, meaning the face of the headstock must be at least 11mm drop from the nut seat and a full wind of string on the post just to get 1-degree of break angle. I am now designing a short-scale multiscale bass (of course a Mt. Fuji!), and thinking how to get a nice shape without being too chunky. Add in the multiscale nut angle, and the nightmare begins. Thanks for the food for thought!
  5. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Precisely! That and ... This guitar build and the previous Chinaberry Bass are prototypes ... I want to learn how to do most things right for the sake of the next builds. It’s true, with the oil-finished Padauk, you’d never know it wasn’t flat. But future builds will probably have gloss finish, so I felt it would be good to learn how to flatten it .
  6. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Gaah! Thought the headstock was perfect, and the back was, but the face was almost 1mm thicker in the middle! I flattened the back perfectly in relation to the heel, and measured the edge all the way around, but didn't check the center portion. This must've happened way back when shaping the neck ... and never confirmed. It looked fine. Well, it's fine, now.
  7. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Just sprayed the third coat of rattle can urethane, and liking the color. I dry-sanded after the first coat almost down to the wood ... in fact, down to the wood in a few places where I'd missed some scratches. After the second coat, wet-sanded lightly with #800, then #1500. After drying, the third coat still shows a bit of grain, and I'm hoping that 4th and 5th coats will fill, certainly 6th will be smooth at this rate. These are pretty thin coats, but this stuff self-levels quite nicely ... even the Padauk is barely showing grain.
  8. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Caution! The following post contains slapdash methods. View at your own risk. The headstock was too thick. I could string the Hipshot locking tuners, but just barely. I wanted to take down the back 1mm, and considered my router planning box, getting the Stew-Mac drill press planer, etc. ... but today saw my little router sitting there and just set a 12mm bit to .9mm and "went to town." Two minutes later routing done, grabbed a#100 then #320 then #800 Scotch pad, and Voila! Paper-toweled Odie's Oil over the whole neck, and will spend a couple days to put probably 5 applications. Headstock is dead-on thicknessed ... probably better than it was before.
  9. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Time to attack the neck.First thing, write down measurements! My plan was twofold: slim down and soften the nut-to-5th "V" and soften the edges of the 7th-to-12th "C" profile. Since I knew pretty much what I wanted, I just went at it with a card scraper until I was near my goal, then fine-tune with the cloth-backed sandpaper sheets taken off the Velcro sanding blocks. I like the well-used sheets, as they can be used like "shining shoes" . I use them at a 45-degree angle and can get a broad surface that flows with the shape of the neck. I gotta say that this is the first time I have felt comfortable shaping a neck! I have shaped several, but mostly for repair jobs that got immediately flipped ... MIJ Squiers to US customers was quite the rage for a while! This time it was a guitar I was familiar with, and I knew all the foibles and strengths. I was felt satisfied in less than an hour that I had achieved the goal. Yay!
  10. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    HAHAHA! It's great to know great actors and great lines! You may be right about the "sinkholes" in this Limba . The Chinaberry is a lot like Limba (but harder), and I never bothered to fill the grain. Three coats and there are very fine sink lines. I "think" 4 coats would do the trick, but may go ahead and use a brush-on 2-part water-based urethane as a grain filler. (Man, that is a LOT of hyphens!) I used that on a Padauk key-hanger and small shelf for my daughter, and it is perfectly smooth after a year in Hawaii. Honestly, I'm not that adverse to some open grain, and not really needing a glass finish for this particular build ... but may do it anyway to get experience for the next bass build!
  11. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Weather report yesterday morning ..."Rainy season will start in the next few days, expected to last 40 days (and 40 nights, I suppose)." So I thought, "Shoot!" ... as in spray paint . I was pretty satisfied with the bevels, and tried about a dozen different pore stains, grain fillers, clear tints on little cutoffs, but nothing spoke to me. I took a good look at my Chinaberry bass, which is just a clear urethane rattle can (Washin Paint's clear has a touch of amber), and thought I'd give it a shot. (pun intended). No filler, I will just sand this down to wood and then put two more coats. MY previous experience has been very good ... it cures pretty fast, it's durable, it sands well, it self-levels pretty good, and it's easy. "And I even like the color!" (that's movie quote, btw)
  12. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    As @Prosthetasaid, putting a bevel on a body that's already got a 3/8" (9.5mm) roundover does not match. Thanks for making me see that, my friend! So took the 26-degree bevel all the way around the body, and will keep the top bevel edge reasonably sharp. I'm hoping this will define the "shape-within-a-shape" while letting the different grain between the top and the bevel give a subtle contrast. The sides (i.e. the 64 degree bevel), however, will get a softer edge ... something like a 1/4" (6mm) roundover. Hoping this will work out! Also flared the cutout behind the string ferrules ... I didn't like the "trough" effect, though it's still a trough! Got a lot of sanding to do, but have to take it easy ... right arm not 100% yet.
  13. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Not a great picture, but here's white gasoline wiped on to give a better representation of what it'll look like with finish.
  14. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    Spent a little time deepening the bevels to 26 degrees ... the body is nearly 50mm thick, so no problem with that at all. I even like the way the forearm bevel and tummy bevel come to about 20mm, which should look nice when I smooth the roundover. I'm keeping things sharp for now, until satisfied with the shape of the bevels. Next step is to flatten top and bottom, maybe just 1mm each side, then smooth everything and prep for finish.
  15. charisjapan

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    I agree that I needed something to clean up the shape of the "Padaukesocket" ... but why waste a perfect opportunity to make a one-off specialty tool for the job?! I had the original white wood spindle and a small cutoff from my drill press lathing, so just rounded it a bit and double-side taped some #180 paper and put it in a cordless drill. Looks better, methinks.
×