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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. btw tried the bits this weekend... they work great. still need something a bit smaller... thought 1/16 would do it but it's just a hair too thick so will test out the harbor freight stuff next.
  2. I know I know... stew mac, but after shipping it is just too painful. So I've been lurking on banjo sites (full disclosure - do not tell my therapist) and have come up with the following possibilities... altho I'm guessing for some reason you are going to tell me to go to stew mac... maybe not? https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-1-16-0625-CARBIDE-2-FLUTE-ENDMILLS-DOWNCUT-PLASTIC-WOOD-1650-0625-250/153117509130 now I have never met a bur I've liked (other than raymond) but these look an awful lot like what stew mac sells: https://www.riogrande.com/product/lynx-square-cross-cut-burs-set-of-10/348910
  3. mistermikev

    Couple questions on coated strings.

    i have super corrosive fingers... what's worse I have a lot of guitars. I've found that as long as I keep a cotton rag lying round and white the strings immediately after playing I can extend the life quite a bit - 4-6wks. However, they start to loose their snap at about 4 wks anyway. fast fret seems to work nice for cleaning them off when they have corrosion... and since i have a lot of guitars - unless I'm recording - I let the strings get a bit older and just use that to give them a nice 'slippery' feel again. my experience w coated is they only coat the wound strings... so it does nothing for me as the unwound strings corrode just as fast as normal. they tend to be a hair dark anyway. now on bass... totally fine with dark and all strings are wound so I use tapewound or dr black beauties. your mileage may vary.
  4. mistermikev

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    right on. looking fwd to this single cut done as well!
  5. mistermikev

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    don't make this weird now! btw - thank you and @ScottR - submerging in water made a huge dif.
  6. mistermikev

    Mahogany micro machine

    I got pretty dark w a maple neck once... sold that guitar but I must have dyed it 30 times and used a powdered dye that I almost mixed very heavy. I think our finishing experts here would likely tell you to first sand with 220 or even 120 and then add dye... to get it deep in the pores.
  7. mistermikev

    Opinions on Design Direction

    I liked it a lot before but it looks like you softened the carve a bit if I'm not mistaken? looks good. can't wait to see it finished!
  8. mistermikev

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    ok first off you win the biggest bit competition. I know some of those neck profile bits ar big but that looks 1 1/4+? saw this top over on amateur luthier and meant to comment - looks realy cool with that carve. gonna be a lady killer.
  9. so my projects stalled quite a bit over the last few days. I know what to do so just venting at this pt! on the set neck... I'm going to bind it for the 3rd time tomorrow morning! 1) after getting it done the first time - I used the router to do a roundover and realized that all the burn marks from my initial binding channel were showing 'thru' the binding edge. it was really thin where the roundover trimmed it. 2) re-channel/re-bound and did the 'roundover' with a file because I wanted to leave as much material as possible so it wouldn't be as thin at the roundover. too thin at the top and doesn't look right. so i stripped it all off again just now... the new plan is: leave it fully square. It's not what I originally intended... but it looks pretty good when I mock up the binding in the channel. bolt neck version... really thick rosewood binding - .090. It took me 6 hours of patience to bend the one side. I broke my first two strips. The horns on a strat are really tight... and this binding is too thick for that. using a variable curling iron at 400 degrees. Fortunately bending around the other curves was easy - so if I can just get past the horn! anywho... kicking my arse today!
  10. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    better than that... I've tried it on this guitar! This will be my 3rd time binding it! The second time I didn't use the router at all. just scraper and lam file. w the burn marks gone from the channel it looked much better... but still a blurry line. (I don't always test my code... but when I do... I prefer the LIVE environment!) The router did melt it a bit the first time... but it was fixable via sanding. I did several passes and lowered the depth each time so it wasn't bad. thank you re gratitude. believe it or not I'm relieved! just how I roll. for better or worse I'm going to try square binding. If I succeed then I'll have something I haven't seen anyone else do. If I don't... I'll have learned that it is another bad idea!
  11. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    some good thoughts there. it's happening at the top 1/16 or less of the binding. when I did my first run I had burn marks in my binding channel and these stood out like a soar thumb - behind the binding! Just for the top 1/16. this is 1.5mm binding. then i did a clean channel, but I guess I hadn't noticed that the same top 1/16 of the binding looks 'discolored' on my last run. You go from stark white to seeing some of the maple color behind it and any variation thereof. It literally blurs the line between top and binding. afa binding quality - yes: this binding is not the sm quality I have used before. it bends very easily. I think you nailed that. that said my neck is bound with it and looks nice... don't want to risk a color mis match at this point. I tried to put sort of a 67deg on the last 1/16th when my last run started looking bad - it did make it better, but still the transition didn't look good to me. sorry, didn't mean to drag you into this and make it so complicated! You are a lot like me in that once you get started trying to fix something - it's hard to stop that train! I imagine that serves you well as it does me. I am very thankful for your help here - and you constant feedback on this site! I hope I don't ever sound like I'm not. before I did my last run... I remember looking at the binding on there - just square - and thinking that it looked pretty good and that I might just leave it. But a voice in my head said: "now you set out to do X so don't be a b-word... do X"! The problem would have been any glue. it will prevent dye. and be impossible to sand. If I attempt the sqr binding... and I have any gaps that need ca glue - I can tape off and put some in. There were only two spots like that on my last run. I think I can do this... and if I can't I can always re cut the channel, sand the entire finish off, and come up with a new plan.
  12. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    he he... no I'm not doing it the RIGHT way. I'm holding the binding in my fingers, holding the iron on it while i push it onto the iron. as soon as i see the moisture dry up, I stop, re-spritz, then reapply heat. probably has a lot to do with how long it's taking! It would def be nice to have the curling iron mounted. Gonna have to think on how I'd do that. could probably just clamp it... but since it became mine perhaps I'll epoxy it into a box.
  13. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    I'm "falling back" on the idea that scraping the binding just won't work. My plan is to apply the binding and NOT scrape it since I didn't like the results of the thin binding the first 2 times. This time I'm just going to leave it w/o any shaping. doing that means I won't be able to sand anywhere near it... so as I see it I need to get my piece all sanded perfect, dye it, apply the binding being carefull as all hell not to get glue on the north side. This top is just getting true oil finish and satin/flat. Probably equally as challenging because I won't be able to wet sand that area at all. is this crazy talk?
  14. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    afa clamping... I'm actually just bending it by hand and then checking against my work. I plan to do some cutouts of the inverse of the horn and use small clamps once I glue it. It sits' in there pretty close right now on the side that I completed but there are a few spots that will def require some pressure. afa feel... I completely understand what you are saying because I've felt it start to bend... and then felt it start to crack several times. I'm getting a feel for taking it just up to the crack point but yes... am down to my last pieces of binding and if I crack one more time I'm going to have to move the join point to accommodate a smaller strip on one side.
  15. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    I said I wanted to push myself! Yeah, less than 1/16 of binding left to cover the join between top and mahog... I changed that to approx 7/64 when I went to the radius top and believe it or not the router executed flawlessly... but the binding becomes so thin at that 7/64 area that there is an obvious color change from white to... well something less white... and it looks bad. also, as you can imagine... it's very hard to keep that line perfect. Maybe I'm headed for a heartbreak but I'm still doing this on the rosewood binding version - assuming I ever get a second piece bent! afa white binding... below is what I'm falling back to. I've cut the binding to leave 1/16 of top wood covered and I'm going to leave it square. In order to do this I believe I need to dye my top first as any glue will be impossible to sand out later. thoughts?
  16. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    also it occurs to me... who the f is curling their hair at 400 deg??? wouldn't it just burn? apparently not!
  17. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    I should also mention there are two things going on here... rosewood binding and white abs binding. afa pipe - I've got a curling iron that has a variable temp. setting it to 400(highest). It works absolutely perfect for the curves of the body with exception of the tip of the horns.
  18. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    I should probably mention that originally I was going to set the roundover 1/16" into the top and then use a scraper/file to give more of a profile like norris had on his tele, but abandoned that since I was going with a radius top. this moved my roundover and binding up 1/16"... so the drawing isn't 100% accurate now.
  19. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    hehe... well this is a sideview of the 1/4" maple top, the 3/8" roundover cutting through it, the binding offset southward by 3/16"... basically showing how the roundover would cut through the top and the binding. leaving binding with a 'rounded' surface... does that make sense?
  20. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    good suggestion on the rosewood btw. I was saturating it with a spray bottle and leaving it sit for 10 mins... but hadn't thought of that. will try.
  21. mistermikev

    let me tell you a tale of my woes...

    thank you for the reply AD. it helps me to go over this in my mind for the 'next time' I try it. I actually did use a scraper and file to round it over last time... but the edge of the binding ends up soo thin that it becomes almost clear and the edge looks like crap. I suspect the only way to get the effect I was looking for would be to A) find binding that is more solid?(I'm guessing most of the problem is that it's white binding... using black/wood/even creme would have been fine) B ) do a rabbet into the body the sm width of the binding. here's my design doc for this. the white square is the binding. the gold is the top wood. blue is a 3/8" radius... purple and red were just to get me 3/16.
  22. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    i am offended by the hatred of gold. I love it. but then I love my jem 77 floral print so... basically all things gawdy are right up my alley. (hehe)
  23. hmm, it's hard to say how that's going to come out on that body wood. It's hard to see in the video but it does look to come out pretty even and I 'spose that would avoid the splotchy-ness that typically happens with softer wood. worth a shot. We all have our own methods and for me I'd be more comfy just using aniline dye first - but cutting it back a lot with water/alcohol. building up the color slow so you can see where it's going to soak in the most. I guess we'll see when we see it!
  24. mistermikev

    Mahogany micro machine

    nice work. some good looking ebony on that fretboard.
  25. no skill required... clamps and a flat board bigger than your guitar and some wood glue! then take a razo and cut close to the pickup holes/cavities... then use a file/sandpaper to finish em off. just sayin: you can do it! anywho: look fwd to pics.
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