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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev

    Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    no pesky frets getting in the way there! lol!
  2. mistermikev

    Not Quite A Tele...

    necessity... blah blah blah. I agree on the sharp carves looking great... and probably on certain shapes a soft carve wouldn't work... but on that one it def works!
  3. mistermikev

    Not Quite A Tele...

    Honestly the front stands out to me more than anything altho the back and heel is/are outstanding too. I love the soft curve of that top. I would not have guessed those tools but it occurs to me that some of the better woodworkers - the tool just doesn't seem to matter - they just will the thing into shape! Very nice work. I have plans to do something similar on my next build... but had planned to try to use a roundover and go 3/16 too deep and then use a rasp to put in a gradient. My rasp is really cheap. I thought for sure there was gonna be a rasp involved here. Do you ever use one? if so what one?
  4. just my two cents and probably not worth one but... I read that your selling and I just don't think lipsticks nor p90s do that great. Sure, there are people who love them (like me and both!) but I would think practically speaking there might be better options... for instance: gfs offers a dual lipstick in a humbucker format (get to put lipsticks in and if later buyer wants to swap out it'd be much easier). Haven't heard the seymour rail/90, but anything seymour is good imo, so is a nice option for p90s... bootstrap pickups - I've bought a few pickups from them and haven't heard them yet but they get good reviews and def look quality to me... they offer an interesting set of humbucker sized p90s here: https://bootstrappickups.com/products/bootstrap-skookum-90-clean-for-humbucker just a thought. cheers and looking fwd to seeing this idea come to life!
  5. mistermikev

    Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    I dunno man... that tail piece might be a little high. (jk - looking good!)
  6. mistermikev

    Not Quite A Tele...

    man, the carve on that thing... you are really a master. What carving tools do you use for a profile like that?
  7. mistermikev

    New to guitar building but has an interesting idea

    thanks for the reply. I often go to a couple commercial/residential lumber yards in my area... unfortunately it's impossible(for me) to judge the weight of an 11' 8/4 piece of ash as it is heavy no matter what! These places are very reasonable on price... but aren't going to weigh or even cut things down for me, and to "look through a pile" is a monumental endeavor for me by myself so... I was hoping you where going to tell me there was some discernible quality to the grain that I could look for but it seems you've answered that "no". Perhaps I'll just order something when I get to that point.
  8. mistermikev

    New to guitar building but has an interesting idea

    can't wait to see yer geetar as I'll immediately tell you "noice piece of ash". (sorry, I have a 5th grade sense of humor). I've always loved ash... and would like to build something in the near future... but weight is a real concern. Most ash I've come across is so heavy it could turn a thinline into a 9lb guitar. @Andyjr1515 any tips on finding lighter pieces? As I understand "swamp ash" is not a species but a marketing term like "true bypass", but are there species I should ask about stock on to (hopefully) find some lighter stuff? afa hot pickups... it's a personal pref thing. best advice: go play some, then play some cold pickups. personally I love a very hot pickup in the bridge and a very cold pickup in the neck. I think they mix well, but I'd be surprised if fifty people didn't totally disagree with me. also, I've loved and hated the same pickup depending on the wood it's in so... there's that!
  9. mistermikev

    First Build - 6 String Bass

    saw the first one and was like "holy crap that's nice" then I saw the (bastogne?) walnut one and was like "holy crap + 1". very nice.
  10. blue legoon - another really creative build and very nice... but really torn between ferrari and root beer this month. On the one hand - the ferrari - man, just very unique, very "rock-n-roll" and the finish is top notch. On the other, I'm a sucker for a really nice top, and the dual color fretboard just seals the deal for me (sorry guys!).
  11. so this is what I'm basically shooting for... I used pics of my actual top and my actual tailpiece here so... going to be fairly hollow: got a few templates made so far... challenges: I'm a little unsure how my binding transition between neck and headstock should play out. ideas include A. trying to put a slight angle on the headstock and keep the transistion straight(only have 7/8" material so... i don't know. don't really want to glue in a scarf either so... maybe not. B. just cut the headstock binding channel while the headstock is full thickness and simply stop the binding at a point close to the transistion. C. I'm doing a headstock overlay... could bind it prior to install or cut it short to make the binding channel (I believe this is what norris did?). next step: make the body route template. ... and templates galore: some wood pile shots: UPDATE: *-==========08/09/18==========-* so... I've broken ground. starting off at 6lbs 7oz... that is fairly light for 2" frican mahog, yes? all for now. UPDATE: *-==========08/12/18==========-* made a little more progress this weekend... 1 outta 2 ain't bad: toggle cavity control plate worked swiimmingly - that dewalt saw is awesome... used a bigger saw for the other cavity but failed as the blade was too thick... so I'll have to pickup some 1/8" mahog for that. revealed some nice grain planing down my neck blank... UPDATE: -==========08/20/18==========- obligatory forstner shot and after some work with the bowl bit... down to 2lbs 9 oz started to work on joining the top... with the bit taking off 1/16" on either side... =====================update 08/21/18 mr natural: you da man. used your trick for gluing up my super thin top. worked like a charm! Here's a shot of the top being held down by a bunch of slate tile. UPDATE: -==========08/26/18==========- glued my top on... used my dremel to cut the inlay channels in my fretboard... final product... routered off the excess on my top... sounds great when you finger drum on it! no puppy toys were harmed in the making of this photo... UPDATE: -==========09/03/18==========- so did binding this weekend... went pretty good all things considered. I taped/dry-fitted and bent the binding first... using a hair dryer (heat gun is just too much for binding I think). Then I used ca glue to go around the body again and pry-apart/glue/re-tape. and a closeup... started carving down my neck too... I still haven't round a good bandsaw so I used a jig saw. This meant a lot of excess to remove... so I just used a straight edge and multiple passes to prevent blowout. one step closer! update 10/1/18 Update 10/21/18
  12. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    Roger that. your advice is like gold so... I will switch to 3k for buffing and try building it up for another week and give it a couple days to cure this time. update: forgot to hit reply... I tested your advice just now and with some 3k then 5k it looks like it is gone. You have learned me sir... and that is no easy feat. I bow to your awesomeness!
  13. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    I very much appreciate your reply Andy! I will take yer advice and hold off for a minute. for the record - the final coat - all I used was a microfibre cloth and turtlewax light compound -no sand paper at all- buffing by hand for no more than 15-30 seconds. the most recent coats were very thin as I'm wiping off the finish right after applying... so it could be burn thru - just do not have confidence. admittedly, I did NOT give it ample time to harden. Still when I have wet sanded back... it really looks to me like there is a good layer of gloss on the entire thing and the 'dull' spots disappear.
  14. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    so... tonight I'm with heavy heart. I have been working on this finish for quite a while and every time I think I'm done and start to try to buff it... (just buffing with light compound) I get these dull spots. 80% of the finish looks great. The dull spots just will not shine up. They are all following the grain in places that were at one point "high spots". If I wet sand with 1k they disapear and it looks like I've got plenty of finish everywhere. Over and over - same result. I was reading a thread on tdpri and was looking for feedback on its accuracy from "the tru oil gods" here at projgtr: I don't want to sand it down to the bare wood as I'm really happy with how the dye turned out and will not risk screwing that up. I am thinking that tomorrow I'm going to wet sand it back down, and shoot some poly. I guess I'm thinking that the next time I need to really build up the to before doing any sanding and ensure I have enough there to not cause this again (yes, even at this point I haven't given up entirely on someday getting a good gloss using tru oil!) Would love any/all feedback and perhaps even condolences at this point!
  15. weight is redic... but that's ash for ya (must not be from the species "swampus ashus" huh?). just my opinion... but I honestly really like the wood of that guitar and if it were for me (i know, i know - i can't have them all) I would consider making a wood pickguard (i also like this pickguard shape) replacement, carve into the back to make it thin-line, and put the kat on the backside. upside is you wouldn't have to worry about redo on the carve. just my 2 cents - I know you aren't asking.
  16. ADFinalLesson I hear ya. good enough for page it's probably better than good enough for me. on the other hand... if you are going to go through all the trouble to build a lp... why not shell out a few bux more to get a bookmatch. I can see it from both sides. I guess in the end I'll have to see what my wood looks like after I cut it into guitar sized pieces. thanks for the reply/encouragement!
  17. I have some 7/8 x 7" flamed maple that I've been toying with the idea of using for a lp build at some point... but was apprehensive because it wouldn't be 'bookmatched'. I will take away some confidence on that topic by following this build. thanks for that.
  18. mistermikev

    Hi - Starting building #6

    jeez, stuggling to finish 1 build going on 4 months here, then again I've built a lot of pedals and such in that time so... yup still feel like crap about it. good on ya. I'm noticing a pattern in your builds! prs fan much!! some beauty there... specially the (what looks like) wenge one. good work. look fwd to seeing your build threads.
  19. that is a very handsome build. love the carve.
  20. mistermikev

    Another Swift Lite Bass

    looking good as always.
  21. mistermikev

    2003 Fender Esquire Scorpion

    cool guitar. reminds me of the pro tone series. mik is good stuff... as I understand most of it was made in the cort/mighty-mite factory. really underrated stuff imo. personally, if I loved a guitar neck, but wanted a floyd - I'd do it... but practically it doesn't add value... so it'd have to be something I knew I'd be happy with. I love a floyd, but I also love a stop tailpiece... just depends if I'm doing dive bombs or double stops that day!
  22. mistermikev

    Opinions on Design Direction

    very nice build. love the carve. nice work.
  23. mistermikev

    Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    nice, got yer stud holes in. Your progress is probably on parr with mine... I keep thinking my finish is ready and then burning through and building up again. Last night I was about to say screw it and shoot some poly but I walked away and this am started building it again. Looking at your build I keep thinking "a lp double cut IS something I could use". Looking very nice. (one of everything please)
  24. been hunting on the internet but everyone is always talking about string slot depth. I'm asking about the typical slot depth for the actual entire nut. I see on some of my guitars it looks like it tends to be as deep as the fretboard. IOW the slot would just be the absence of the fretboard. Just wondering... for those who have a les paul style nut... is there a sliver of fretboard wood under your nut?
  25. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    probably says a lot about your vs my skill. I've gotten some good finishes with poly - but that is easier ime. tru oil is a whole 'nuther discipline. someday I'll get there!
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