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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. wow, that is interesting and pretty innovative. you are a great resource for unorthadox trickery!
  2. thank you mr natural. You are the best - thank you for chiming in. afa kerfs... I've seen this done for the forearm cut. While (I'm not sure why) I don't like the idea of cutting lines, I do plan to do SOME releif in the sense that I was going to dry fit my top and try to mark out the areas of the control cavity and hollow cavity. Then hit it with a router and take it to 1/8" in those areas. I have to do this for the controls as I believe a 5 way will require a narrow top there. (can anyone confirm the max depth there? for the 5 way lever to be able to work properly?) perhaps supserstition (disclaimer) but I think the thinner top might help me to capture more of the semi hollow sound on the neck pickups. wet paper towels is interesting... would you just apply that to the top? I had it in my head that I would just use a spray bottle of water and a heat gun - gradually increase clamp pressure over a few days/sessions. Any/all advice there is welcome. roarrocket - that is something I NEED to get at some point. I imagine it would be the perfect thing for getting laminate on or bending to a full bowl. thanks for sharing! I hear ya on the broken top - I'm going to try it first on the flamed maple cause that quilt is so amazing - can't risk losing that. thanks adfinlayson. there are a number of issues with the full bowl that I see. 1) the trem rout area would fall away too much unless I moved the radius back... moving it back might not look right. 2) the complexity of bending 1/4 maple in two directions - not something I want to attempt on my first try. 3) it would really only be a 2 direction cut and would require a lot of hand tooling after that which would make attaching a top a bit difficult. Would probably work great for a carve top tho. For this one I plan to just cut some 2x4s on my bandsaw to allow even clamping pressure across the body. funny, in my reply to mr nat I almost repeated you verbatim re heat gun and spray water! I swear I didn't read your post until now! We think alike! was totally planning to dry bend it over a few days and once I have her right... glue it and cross my fingers. planning to use a couple set nails to hold it center. at the same time re water... perhaps I shouldn't admit this: but I have it in my head that the tension of the wood bent w/o using water/heat might actually be an interesting prospect. I can't help but wonder if it would resonate better. I don't want to open a bag of worms and perhaps it's superstition but I can't help but think it might. I want to see how easy it bends once I have some releif in the cavities, then decide.
  3. ouch, dang that's ruff but you know what they say: everybody makes mistakes, it's the recovery that makes you a luthier. so it's an opportunity. I think norris's idea is probably best. I guess you could plane it flat right there and add a piece back on... try to match the grain. better yet, plan the entire length of the neck and add a contrasting piece and make it a feature! really nice looking build. was looking at the chiseled out body and thinking "well that'd be quite nice if you just left it rough". Esp the pic where it's half chiseled and half smooth. Don't think I'll ever be brave enough to chisel my way to a carved top but if I ever do I might go for that!
  4. thank you sir, that's kind of how I felt when reading others' posts. nice to just be able to get a complete story... but I spose' it's also nice to see the posts in context too so... will do both going fwd. so the plan is to just do the top on these (not the back). it technically won't be a bowl as the radius is only east/west and not north/south (that would involve some bravery I'm just not ready for!). I will get the neck pockets done, necks dry mounted and tested, and then radius the body, then dry clamp the top on and see if I need to do any steam/bending. according to some sources I read (re airplanes?) 1/4" maple material should bend over a 12" radius with no need for steam... so 30" should be fine but who knows about figured wood. the bend is so slight that the trem should hardly notice it. only drops by 5/8" from center to edge at the widest point. the change is .1" per 1" of top so over a 3.5" trem the change would be approx 3/16" on either side and I plan to float the trem about 1/16". The trick is going to be drilling the trem studs w/o slipping. my plan was to drill small pilot holes in my template, mount that using some cut offs from the radius to keep it flat... then transfer the pilot holes to the body, also rout the pickup holes and top trem hole at that point. Hoping my drill press/brad point will follow the pilot holes for the studs assuming I go slow. Lot of uncharted waters here so a bit scary but you can't learn unless you try.
  5. fair enough. perhaps I'll double post them from here out. thank you on the jig! can't wait to try it but have some necks and pockets to finish first.
  6. added an initial assembly of my radius jig. pics above.
  7. mistermikev

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    you can see some pics in my build thread. I probably don't document as well as you, but I do snap a pic here and there. I have a jig I setup for the truss route where I just position my neck in it and turn some side screws till it's secure... then my router rides straight down the middle... so it's pretty easy. That said - you gotta go with what ya know! Don't fight it if it works for you!
  8. I'll start afa name... "zeke komodo and the woody doodiddlers"?
  9. updated my initial post w some new pics. I like to keep all the pics together as it seems more fun to be able to just scroll through. got my trem spring cavities cut, my battery stores, started work on my radius jig, and setup 1 of 2 neck pockets. on another random note... have been thinking about something... silicon baking forms and nail forms. these of course are forms that you can 'fill' with 'stuff' and then use for adding to cookies or to your nails. I was thinking I might buy some and try filling them with colored epoxy. to me... cutting an inlay hole with precision such that I could fill them with epoxy and not have it look jagged seems unlikely. Was thinking I might be able to make some cool inlays using these forms, then cut approx around them on the guitar and use them as inlay - filling any gaps with the typical sawdust/super glue.
  10. congratulations gentlemen! I'm very happy for both of you - outstanding builds!
  11. mistermikev

    Build #2 - The Osprey

    wenge against flamed maple light/dark might be pretty cool... just sayin'!
  12. mistermikev

    The Wahlgaard II project.

    man... I gotta get me a cnc. just looks amazing and precision. nice work.
  13. mistermikev

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    damn... truss channel with a chisel?? I tip my hat. wouldn't even dream of attempting that. Put in some hours myself today... all day and kinda tired but made good progress on my radius jig. Hopefully some assembly tomorrow. looking good!
  14. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    going all angels and demons up in here. love it.
  15. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    really love what you did with the fretboard overhang. like the stars. like the crown but feel like it'd be nice if it somehow incorporated a star. perhaps for an f-hole a shooting star? also like the simplification of the switches. always felt the orig just had too much going on. looks pretty good to me.
  16. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    so, my hope is to be able to use this for bodies, fretboards, cauls, and sanding blocks. as i go smaller in radius tho... the center will go farther away from the material so it'd require quite a change... but that's for later. first is proof of concept. below is a pic. topside radius is 31.5, bottom is 28.5. the router will sit on a sled on top that will position the bottom of the router 1/2" above the bottom radius which means my bit will need to be exposed by 1" to reach the final radius of 30". the blue squares are the rails on my current router sled -1" aluminum that can raise/lower. the tan is a 1.75" body blank that is 12.25" wide. the orange blocks will hold the jig to those rails and will position the 28.5" radius almost touching the material when flipped. on the bottom radius, the router will again sit 1/2" above the radius so exposing the bit 1" will also bring me back to 30". If you were radiusing the top and bottom of a guitar you'd actually want the radius for the bottom to be smaller, but A) I'm only radiusing the top on my guitar B ) I don't think you'd notice it on a radius this big and C) if I was to make a 30" radius fretboard I'd want to be able to repeat the same radius for a sanding block... so my design is to be able to do 30" convex or concave. enough about me! afa design... I think the more you do the better you get. I try to do 2 or 3 variants of what I think I want, then walk away for a few days to see it fresh and decide what I REALLY like. I think you could go a lot of directions on that guitar and all of them would be cool... but it's hard to hear your own voice w/o stepping back.
  17. mistermikev

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    that wood combo w the lighter colored lams is really working for you! goonna be cool!
  18. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    wow, looks great. I love that 12th fret inlay and would love to see more of it, but admittedly the repeat of the star motif is more practical. I love it when something is echoed in different forms. Personally I'd go with that. Maybe echo the 3 star cluster at the 12th? graphic design... well that shows! nice work. All I know I owe to the art dept at my work: they are often too busy to get me something so I dive in and do the best I can! afa radius: for better or worse I'm going to attempt a jig for that this weekend. not confident I can pull it off but will be trying anyway! Would love to hear what your ideas on the subject are.
  19. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    BM always sounds pretty sustainy (is that a word). for single coils they sure bring the beef.
  20. mistermikev

    The Black Queen

    wow, I love it. this is going to be cool with a capital C!
  21. mistermikev

    Demonic stagg guitar

    wow, I'm not a 'skulls' guy but dang... I love what you did there. lot of potential for coolness! rock on.
  22. mistermikev

    Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    right on. look fwd to how that turns out.
  23. mistermikev

    Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    looks great. now just legally change your name so you can keep it(it'd be worth it)!
  24. I have sausage fingers so... can relate.
  25. I can't imagine building a trem unit from scratch... that is going to be interesting. Will def be watching. "blie" guitar? botm? blue? I am not certain what you mean but thank you!