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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. so today I broke wood on my next build(s). Decided I couldn't decide so doing two. One 25.5" sl 12" radius and one 25" sl no radius. I'm calling them the "Sweet Spot Blonde" and the "Sweet Spot Blue". Here are my objectives for this(these) builds: 1) 4 pickup strat - why? A.) more 2/4 position, B.) Tele middle position sounds C.) hi ouput vs lo output pickups but better combining 2) better neck access I'm going to do one w a bolt on with ferrules instead of plate and the other with a long tenon and sculpted set neck 3) heel adjust via spoke wheel on both, the 3x3 with have 14degree headstock angle 4) solidbody/semi-hollow hybrid. per my design doc below I'm going to have the bridge two pickups in a solid block and the neck two pickups in a hollow chamber. Hoping to get a high gain bridge sound that doesn't feedback, but the fat 'semi-hollow' sound in the neck. Neck two pickups will be mounted directly to the neck (for the set neck version) 5) radius top - top will be bent on a 30" radius... edges will still have a roundover and two layers of binding staggered. One will be rosewood binding, the other white plastic. 6) "sweet spot" wiring: will do my std 3 way plus 6 position rotary wiring but going to re-work it to get more variation in the inside-coil vs outside coils modes. Plan to try to mix series and parallel there. Both will have a 3-way, master volume, rotary, and push-pull mid boost. no tone (I never use it anyway). Here are the concept drawings... some details: my templates: today I cut two big chunks of mahog out of my stash, planed them, rough cut them to shape, and weighed them... ===========update 1/27/19 ============== well my GUITAR body is on a diet anyway! ==========UPDATE 01/31/2019========== got both my bodys fully hogged out, belly cut 'steps' in... both right at 3lbs. ========== UPDATE: 02/03/2019 ========== feel like I got a lot done this weekend anyway! cut my rear trem cavity and my battery store... haven't bought material for covers yet so may have to alter the depth later but figured I might as well get them in there. also started the work for my radius jig this weekend... might have been better ways to do it as this felt like a lot of work but for better or worse here's how I approached; started off with a 31.5" radius. I'm using poplar here and if I had to do over I'd have chosen oak or something a bit more rigid. after I got one rail cut out i trimmed it up nice and used it as the template for another 3 rails. Was planning on doubling up the rails to keep them from bending easily at the center. at top center here you can see the sled I made to ride the rails. Then I switched over to working on my neck pocket templates. since the one neck will have a 'paddle' it adds a little complexity to determining if it is on the body straight. I overcame this by adding a board at the back to 'raise up' my centerline. after precision 'jacking' with the clamps and loosening/tightening screws, etc (hehe)... I arrived at a fit that is "tighter than a fish's turd cutter" to quote Larry the cable guy. and the centerline is spot on: then routered out my pocket for the paddle neck: ==========update 02/04/2019 ========== so, got my radius jig somewhat setup. need to fine tune it a bit... trim off the ends, add some teflon spacers from a cutting board to my router mount so it won't rock, and trim off just a hair from the inside of it so it slides a little bit easier. I want a little bit of resistance so I decided to forgo the bearings. the convex version is sitting on my rails with approx 1.75" of room I could move downward, and the sled is sitting 2.25 high. this is about perfect as the blade needs to stick out 1/2" from the bottom to achieve a 30" radius. adjusting this thing is sort of a pain and since the concave version sits a hair low... think I'll probably just mount a couple of 2x4s to raise the body up instead. have enough clearance to do 22" piece so perfect for a body. a bit tired so this is as far as we go tonight. ========== update 02/06/2019 ========== last night I roughed out my two necks... learned why birdseye is often called 'rock maple' (it's not because it's meant for rock n roll). long story long I probably ruined a fairly new timber wolf blade with a kink as I tried to back out of a cut and it was bound (saw was off). my wood grain dictated to me that the bolt version is going to be a rev headstock... I had to agree. flamed maple piece isn't looking so bad either. really big wide flames in this so can't wait to see it planed down. almost looks like quilt when you catch it at the right angle. lots of little tan flecks on this piece so figured I try out a neck in it. cut a small piece of birdseye for the bolt version. neck pickups will mount to this and spring claw will screw into it. need to remove the cove edge so it sits flush will likely do that next. ========== update 02/17/19 ========== "like all the bowling alleys had been destroyed... sos I spent most my time looking for beer". and that would explain why all I have to show for the last two weeks is the following... here's how I did my neck pocket for the bolt on w 7" radius at heel: 1 rough cut around neck pocket leaving approx 1/8" gap, cover neck template with masking tape... 2 clamp everything down and ensure it is on center... 3 fill 1/8" gap with epoxy... 4 break the pieces apart - later I will use this as a guide to make a 3/4" template. same process for my trem rout cover... made some truss rod templates: finished neck pockets: kept checking my birdseye and it was stable over the last two weeks (since I rough cut it) so I planed it down and it's ready for final shape cut. made a template for my gretsch inlays... will lay this at an angle on the fretboard to keep the inlay flat on the radius and then dremel out the areas... got my set neck stock planed down and sanded... installed my truss rod in the bolt version. used a bull nose 1/4 in combo with a normal 1/4 bit so that the bottom of the channel is mostly radiused except for the parts where the truss requires a flat bottom. sharpened my chisel and cut some corners... voilla, fits like a glove. and that's all I got in me today! man am I beat! ========== update 2/23/19 ========== using my jig to cut the truss access holes in the fretboard... shims to prop it up to square... and here is my truss access closeup had a tiny little blowout on the very edge of the bottom wing on the headstock... only about 1/8" but I couldn't find the piece so I routered out about 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/2 and glued on a small piece... area will be covered by headstock overlay and binding anyway. the dark spot is a shallow burn mark where I stopped w my router also will be covered. and all better! used a couple of finish nails to line up and hold the bolt version fretboard on... and glued up the fretboard for the bolt version... forstnered (is that a verb?) out my neck pocket for my set version... and routered out the pocket... she's sitting 1/4 (top) + 1/8 (typical fender overhang) above so will have to barely touch things with the radius when I get there... made a funny video... neck joint test routed my inlays using the jig above... but this time at an angle to minimize sanding. got my inlays all ready to be cut, will take them out, glue up the neck, trim it, then reinstall them. also redid my wiring diagram for the strat style... think I might use a piece of vero board to make wiring in the pickups (and potential replace) easier. got my neck paddle routered down... routed my wire channels, got my bolt neck pocket done... ==========update 03/02/19========== so here is a bondo caul I made for my veneer process... and glamour shot of my caul... click here for video regarding bondo caul! one thing of note: next time put down some wax paper and I won't end up with a scrap piece glued to my headstock! anywho... sanded down my inlays and cropped my veneer. rough cut my headstock overlay... glued it down... and trimmed it for binding... here is a pile of parts. took me 3 buys to get a black jack with no blemishes! gotoh for the win! had hoped to start doing my radius this weekend but remember I still had to glue on some pieces to keep the base from rocking so... that will dry by tomorrow so hopefully! got my set neck "rough bound" last night. started working the rosewood pickup covers... and..... the moment I've all been waiting for: radius... a lot more physical work than I had anticipated as going from cavity to wood you really have to be careful it doesn't grab... but other than that it went pretty smooth. ========== update 03/04/2019 ========== got my set neck cleaned up a bit, filled in some gaps with ca glue... will hold off on final-final sanding until after I do the final plane on the back. got the set neck body radius'd today and took some more angle shots to hopefully show it more... this one came out requiring less sanding because on my final pass I literally took "half a pencil line" off. ========== update 03/09/19 ========== got my tops all glued up, rough cut them, test fit them on my bodies and turns out I won't need any steam at all. I could bend them easily by hand and they would adhere. dry fit them and put a few finish nails in to hold them in place. I marked out my control cavity and thinned the area for the 5 way to 1/8". Was thinking of thinning them down in the chambered areas to 1/8" but decided not to as I had to reinforce my dano near the pickups (1/8" top) as it was a little too flexible right there. at this point the two bodies have to be treated very differently. with the bolt version I can do some true oil in the chambers, glue on the top, then I'll cut the neck pocket. with the set neck I need to dry fit the top, cut the neck pocket, cut a few inches of binding slot on either side of the neck, then glue in the neck, then glue on the top - hopefully I can sneak my top over the neck w/o too much trouble! bought this little guy for $40 off offerup in prep for building a binding jig... so... here's a "sisters" shot... used my planing jig to thin down the necks to "almost" finished dimensions. I'm doing a "asymetrical oval C" on the birdseye and for the set neck I'm going to do very thin (.77 at the 1st) C style. ========== 03/10/19 ========== so got one neck profile done... but I was out of breath a few times... but then I'm old and in rough shape so... fairly thin profile ended up at .77 at the first and .90 at the 12th... the asym is quite nice as you can get a nice thicker feel on the low side but slide your thumb towards the high e and it feels very fast/thin. a shot of my cavity prep (no jokes please): put some true oil in there then did some shielding paint after. so then clamp city... hot off the press... er um... clamps? had to take several breaks as it was killing my back to use this sander but finally done with that part anyway! nice solid join between the mahog and maple ========== update 3/14/19 ========== so keeping an eye on weight... looks like 3lb 8oz body, 1lb 5oz neck, 2oz per pickup so 8oz, 1lb 3oz bridge, 8oz tuners so 7lb? still will be removing some pickup wood and a deep belly cut - I'm guessing that will take about 12oz off so estimating just over 6lbs here. got a little hairy this week when I dry fit my top and cut the neck pocket for my set neck version. the neck needs to be glued before I attach the top... but wouldn't be able to cut the top with the neck installed so it's a catch 22. now to deal with the rounded corners... I'm not that great with chisels... but give me a laminate file and I'm right at home (see below) spent a lot of this week building/testing my binding jig... required quite a bit of tweaking. Added and then removed springs, changed the length for tension several times... to get it just right. these drawer slides have built in mechanism/springs for making a 'soft close' which is nice. the carriage doesn't just drop... it eases back into position. rebuilt my plexi piece because I couldn't cut the last 1/8" right up at the neck pocket - literally was that close. So rebuilt and now it has plenty of room. it works pretty intuitively. nice and straight. It is perfect everywhere except right at the highest points...you can kind of see here. My donut was simply a plumbing piece that is a cover for faucet pipe. had a 7/8" hole already, and has a nice slope. It is a hair too large (approx 1.5") around and this is preventing complete flattness on most of the guitar. The two closeups below show that it drifts almost a 1/16th at those spots. For this guitar: it will kind of be cool. There is going to be some manual shaping of the 1/2 round as it won't dig in as much on the sides... but will dig in fully at the back. This should follow that pretty good so I'm going to use it as is... but will likely build a new donut at the point where I use it again. ========== update 03/16/19 ========== don't think I'm bob villa or anything but just thought it might be nice to show a time lapse of my set neck carving... here it is with the facets drawin: halfway through the first facet (3mins) facet 1 done: then hold at 22.5 degrees and facet 2 done then hold at 67.5 degrees and facet 3 done: sm thing on the other side... about 10-15mins per side total. this side shows them after being blended together: move my clamps and do the vallute the blend the vallute/heel on the spindle: then to my best tool: hands + sandpaper! thanks to vallute, heel truss, ebony overlay and fretboard, and 1.75 width at the nut... this thing is very rigid. can't bend it at all yet it's .786 thick at the 1st. no flex in the headstock at all. the wood I used here is something I have a lot of. wanted to use it for this neck to see if it would be "pretty enough" for a body. It has all these 'brown specs" and it didn't occur to me till now what they are - or at least what I think they are: ambrosia? there are no holes anywhere and I thought ambrosia typically would have that. they are just tiny versions of what looks like ambrosia here and there. Would love some enlightenment on this topic. ========== update 03/17/19 ========== for the bolt neck... i wanted to get my neck attached before I cut the pickup and trem cavities from the top... so even though I hadn't cut my neck relief on the back... I drilled my ferrule holes to depth and bolted her up. drew my neck lines on the body and checked it against the top centerline - looking good. then used a level and shims to get my top sitting flat on the radius and clamped it down ensuring my template was matching up with my centerline. used a combo square to ensure the but end was sitting correct above my binding rabbet. routered out my pickups and trem cavity... took the whole thing off and set it at an angle to do the jack plate... all set! glued up my set neck version... MORE CLAMPS!!! and removed all the clamps (28hrs later... 24 to dry and 4 to remove all the clamps!)... followed basically the sm proceedure for the set neck but had to elevate my template 3/8" to sit on top of the fretboard... and all done w that! ========== 03/18/19 ========== just been kind of driven lately. having a lot of fun. so got my final binding channel in on both. decided I'm just going to do one layer. jig worked pretty flawless altho there is a tiny bit of flex in the plexi that made me look hard... still came out perfect: did the sm for my bolt version... for some reason my first pass on the bolt left a little ledge... probably router was sitting a hair dif in the base... totally ok as my binding is just below it. did my neck heel carve as well tonight. started with a router... then went for a scraper. first time really using one and I can see why so many fall in love. between that and an orbital sander 15mins and done. ========== update 03/19/19 ========== so... did my belly curve tonight... it's a big'un at 1 1/8" deep... but i have a big belly so it's just my size! put in my steps... worked it with a card scraper... and sanded it up with the osc. it feels like a pair of orthepedic shoes. sits more angled than a typical strat and I love it... with the guitar on one hip this giant body feels super thin and sleek. earlier this morning with the two sisters together... got my final set of pickups on the way... and there is some alnico 2 in there (yes 2!). set neck will be higher output A5 9.5k/A5 8.6k in bridge pos and A5 5.6k/A2 5.6k in the neck two... bolt will get A5 8.6k/A5 7.4k in the bridge and A5 5.6 / A2 5.6 in the neck should probably just put the set neck next to my marshal and the bolt next to my fender but I'm splitting hairs! ========== update 03/28/19 ========== so the last week and a half - kind of stalled up at the binding process... on my rosewood binding... I've actually got it bent around the entire guitar now, but I need to build some forms to apply pressure while i glue it up so... here's a shot of how it started: here's one of the pieces bent around the body: had my set neck entirely bound with white binding twice. Once I applied my roundover... it got so thin that the line between body and binding was blurry so I stripped it back and tried it again via scraper and file... but didn't like that either so I pulled it all and have decided I'm going to try something different - leaving it square but offset a little bit from the roundover. Here's an earlier shot of the guitar with binding before I did the roundover: here is a mock up of what it's going to look like when I rebind it: To do this I'm going to have to dye the body first. I can't have ca glue preventing dye... and once the binding is on I won't be able to do any sanding near it. If a little glue seeps out onto the body after it's dyed - it'll be fine as it will just darken it a hair and be a little 'shiny'. cut my control holes: planed down some mahog for my cavity covers: here they are rough cut: and here they are installed - haven't sanded them flush yet... got my tuners installed, got my cavities covered in shielding paint, and my trem mounted... did my mop logo on the set neck: lots to do yet... here is my todo list: bolt: shielding paint on the control cavity, make forms for glueing binding and glue up binding, need a new nut... the bone nut just looks bad to me, after binding is installed need to roundover the top then cut the belly relief, install the trem claw, drill top jack, drill strap locks, finish sand the fretboard add frets and level, dye everything brown (note to self hit the truss cavity) and sand it back, add brown grain filler, hit it with some tru oil, then tape off and finish in champagne frost, print out the logo and add white/clear it, build a preamp, install electronics! set neck: shielding paint the control cavity, add an angle piece to back of headstock (long story), dye the fretboard (nts hit the truss cavity), make faux truss cover and add binding, tape off body and dye it, bend the binding and carefully install it (note to self break one edge!), install trem claw, drill top jack, drill strap locks, install frets and level, hit everything with true oil, build preamp, install electronics! ========== update 04/01/19 ========== so not a lot of updates lately as working on all details... not much dif to show. trying out stains, wasn't happy so ordered dif color... worked on my pcb for mid boosters... worked on my binding and closing up some gaps... got my frets for the set neck nipped (dremel stone cylendar is amazing on these... will not use anything else going fwd. cleaned em up with a needle file but wasn't much to clean) here's my pcb process... print out on white paper, tape down some press-n-peel blue, print out again... iron at low temp and with a white piece of paper over and pine board under... after about 7mins the black shows thru the blue and a little more work on the edges to even it out and get a clear image and done. peel off carefully after setting on kitchen solid surface to cool... few spots to touch up with a etch pen and voilla note to self... always tape up the bottom of the bag you use to etch... or your etchant will leak out and into the pan and you'll be pissed. also don't use a tight bag as this doesn't allow the etchant to pool on the top. follow these rules and it won't take 6hrs to etch! after etching below: since I couldn't find any pcb mount push pulls this time... just went with good ole burns... needed to put some resistors in parallel to get down to 50k and this works great as I needed lead to mount to the pcb like panel mount - hard to see but there are two vishay resistors under the legs of the pot here: and here's how it mounts: my faux truss cover came out nice - I made it radius... just one problem: I put such a thick ebony overlay on my headstock that there isn't much clearance to get it between the strings and headstock... so I probably won't be able to use it. no worries: I'm flexible! so tonight I was thinking about how I was going to fret my set neck. I have been using my drill press and a caul... but I can't see how I'll manage getting the neck on there and balancing the body while I press... so decided to take a shot at building a clamp. twas way easy. used a graduated titanium bit to drill out the rivets in a harbor freight clamp... nail set to tap out the bent steel holding the caul to the mouting rod (reversable) and had bolts and washers laying round. just have to build something for the back of the neck. put a 1/4 channel in the back of some walnut, cut a neck shape out of it... drill a hole... then I just need something soft to lay on top and protect the neck. in closing: thanks again to @ADFinlayson, @ScottR, and @Andyjr1515 for help/support/advice regarding gluing on rosewood. I did boil(almost) water and submerge my rosewood for 30mins and that helped a lot. I did not use Andy's method of pre-gluing... but am using wood glue, and have channeled him several times as i've reheated the glue to clamp down gaps. This has totally changed my understanding of wood glue. I had no idea how easily I could heat it and re-clamp something! It's like a mulligan! I'm thankful as it's not perfect but it's working! ========== update 4/7/19 ========== got some color on... finally got my binding right:
  2. some of them want to.... yeah, I'm sure there is. I guess my next step is to get aggressive on the sand back of the blonde. if I burn through or otherwise screw it up I can always strip it. gonna wash out my tub, maybe even whipe it down with alcohol, then line it with a new garbage bag. we'll see if we can avoid the 'floaties".
  3. it's a small wonder why the blue hasn't had issues w dust... we have 3 cats and a dog and despite hepa filter in the ac everything has pet hair on it. i guess cause it's blue I just can't see it but I'm sure it's there! "this finish was made with 30% genuine cat hair"!
  4. funny you mention that... there is one fleck of green flake that ended up in the finish. it is from a guitar I did 3+ years ago! I guess it must have been in the tub I was using but I blew it out before use... or at least I thought! it's strange... I know nitro tends to melt layers together... I got an eyelash in the finish last night and tried to wetsand it out... but it seems like it is so deep in the finish. I have no idea how it got that deep! i swear it wasn't there yesterday morning... only sprayed one layer and yet it seems like it is all the way down to the color coat. also, no spray gun here... just spray can!
  5. thank you sir. yes, finishing is always a test for me. I should have just gone poly as in the past that seems pretty fool proof to me but I really feel like I am getting better at tru oil... just need to hang in there. at this point it's more stubborn desire to 'beat it'! thank you sir. the cream one - it really doesn't take photos well but afa how it looks - it turned out pretty much how I imagined... just little specs of this and that everywhere. can only see them close up. thinking I might strip it back and this time take my plastic tub and cover it immediately after spraying. white/cream is always so difficult to do w/o imperfections!
  6. mistermikev

    Margaret ver.. 2

    Oh, oh oh... I know what it is! it's no strings right? hehe. looks cool.
  7. mistermikev

    Shielding and Grounding

    who knows... maybe they just wanted the "look" of shielding!
  8. well here's the current state of my two. really struggling with these two. so this is the blue when I had it almost perfect... but had some really faint surface scratches and just wet sanded too much... now working to get back here! and this is the blonde... I'm doing this in nitro so have been shooting it in my backyard inside a plastic tub setup in the corner to try to prevent any debris... but it has really tiny stuff everywhere. I'm tempted to try spraying in my garage but I've got a gas water heater so... probably not a great idea. I am thinking I might go on the side of my house where there is a 8' area between the fence and the house for more windbreak... but az has a lot of debris in the air even when it's not windy (so dry, pollen, etc). just can't win! pretty much every evening ends up with me disgusted with them both and doing something else to keep my mind off of it! very discouraged right now.
  9. mistermikev

    school me about planers...

    so a while back I bought a 13" craftsman planer(351.217130) on craigslist for $100. Sadly I haven't used it yet and I've had it for 4-5months. If I'm being honest with myself it's a healthy fear of a tool I haven't used before. so... I've read thru the manual a few times, and I think I have a grasp of how to run it but a little reassurance would help me afa courage! so... on the right it has a crank. I understand that you set this to the size you want to output... as I understand I can place my piece below the rollers and crank down while watching a 'depth of cut' pointer in the center of the unit. I understand I should shoot for 1/32 removal but should never cut more than 1/16 at a pass. accurate? anything else I need to know? what are the common planer mistakes? I plan to use it to plane down a 5/16 x 3 x 20 piece of ebony to 5/32 for a headstock overlay. with that in mind - is there a minimum thickness one can plane? I'm gonna guess that zero is not possible but what about 1/8"?
  10. mistermikev

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    if it makes you feel better... I'm going thru pretty much the sm thing myself. I have learned an interesting trick tho.. i didn't sand thru... just lightened up an area... so I added some dye to my tru oil... actually works very well, however at first it looked bad until I built up some clear on top of it again. might be true for you as well. if you dye it... then take the time to build the gloss again... it might look ok. or add dye to your gloss. every time I get to the finishing step: I realize this is the most difficult step and stresses me out terribly. I had my one body 98% perfect and was about to say "good enough" but I felt like that was giving up... sanded just a little bit more in problem area and blamo... felt like I screwed it all up. Keep swearing that next time I'll leave well enough alone (I won't). Anywho, my long way of saying "I feel your pain".
  11. mistermikev

    school me about planers...

    yeah, 13" wide spinning blade still scares me a bit! also... godawful noise from that thing. I've had mine for a bit now and haven't really fully utilized it but I will def do so on my next build. I think I'll still shy away from trying to plane down to 1/8" tho. From what I gather that is asking for troubles. seems there are never easy solutions!
  12. mistermikev

    Customizing/restoring a Squire P Bass

    if I'm honest it was sort of wishful thinking. I don't even know why... perhaps just the spirit of diy. Either way a nice clean job of laying out foil is a think of beauty. It's nice to see.
  13. mistermikev

    Shielding and Grounding

    for the most part I use conductive paint to shield my cavities and run a ground to a screw in the cavity and to each additional cavity to link them all. as mentioned pots should connect it to ground but over time the pots can wear off the paint or tear the tape so i like to wire it in explicitly. That said, I think you'd be fine either way. People tend to overkill the shielding but it's better to be safe then sorry IMO. for the record my hamer had ground wire running to the pot and to all cavities from the factory... I think if you look at ten mfg you'd likely find ten dif methods of shielding... all varying degrees of 'fine'. buzz - it's funny but that can mean a lot of dif things to a lot of dif people. There is the distinct buzz that comes from a single coil that is operating alone, the buzz that will be there when you aren't touching the strings (assuming no emgs), 'buzz' from emi/rf... buzz from a bad cable... a guitar that is wired perfectly correct will have some of these things so I think you just have to get a feel for when you have the right kind of buzz and not the wrong!
  14. mistermikev

    Customizing/restoring a Squire P Bass

    I stand corrected. Thought for sure it was alum foil. One of these days I'm going to try that! Anywho, thank you for solving the mystery.
  15. mistermikev

    Braz boards - CNC to vintage spec

    some lovely stuff there.
  16. mistermikev

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    looks really great! I don't see a run on the top at all... so I think this is one of those times where it probably is a minor thing but seems more obvious to the originator. nice work.
  17. mistermikev

    Kemp Guitars 2019 Build Thread

    fortunately I've got lots of spare ebony... think next time I do a fb w/o binding I'll fire up the chop saw and make some slices! good call!
  18. mistermikev

    Fret levelling

    i dunno if this helps... and I am no expert at anything(disclaimer) but I get surprisingly good results with meager tools. I first use a lam file to square the ends to the fretboard. then I use it to put a 45-67.5 deg on the edge of all frets. then i use several needle files to dress up the ends... I don't spend much time on this as I just want them to not be sharp. Once I've got them "not sharp" i use some 400 sandpaper and just hit the entire edge. Then I use cheap levels - I had to buy several to get a couple that are straight. I buy belt sander belts and cut them down. I use spray adhesive to glue on the belts to the levels. I have one in 180, one at 220, and one at 400. I mark the frets with a marker and do the 180. then I usually mark a second time and do 220. then I use 400 for cleanup. then I mark with marker the last time and crown using a stew mac tool. then I generally use a needle file to hit the sharp edge I made from leveling on the fret ends. then I use steel wool and go up through the grits. The whole process probably takes me 3 hrs spread out over several visits. I haven't done this yet but I'm told a dremel with a buffing wheel will get you a shiny surface easy - I will try that soon.
  19. mistermikev

    Kemp Guitars 2019 Build Thread

    you know filling this never even occurred to me (I'm an idiot). In the past I just let the fret end show. great idea and now I'm going to have to go find some ebony veneer! thank you for sharing!
  20. what circuit did you use? ruby? the one they have here? I have thought about doing a sustainer and will when I get to doing the right guitar for it. how do you like it? any noise issues with your other pickups?
  21. hope your circuit has reverse polarity protection on it... as another thing that will smoke real good is a diode being burn out by rev power... and it's kind of fun to see (ask me how I know).
  22. looks like yer using two bat clips to extend the wire length? you prob already thought of this but note that that will flip the wires so bare end will be wrong colors... not that it matters. just lookin' out for my fellow bro! oh snap... just saw the shot where you flipped em back for the final clip. was still lookin' out for you tho!
  23. mistermikev

    Customizing/restoring a Squire P Bass

    alum foil tape doesn't have conductive adhesive. I use it all the time in places where it's appropriate (control cav covers) but if you look close you can see he's using it to link cavities which makes me think it isn't. I think I see some solder marks in there which makes me think perhaps it's alum foil. I know it's fairly common to use the thicker alum foil for this. I guess we'll see when he answers.
  24. mistermikev

    Axim guitars - 2019 projects.

    lovely shape. the paint job looks really great on it. nice work.
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