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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev

    Reshaping Pickup Cavities

    I come from a long line of "if it's worth doing... it's worth overdoing". look on craigslist for a router you can find one for $25 easily. my vote would be to make templates, cut out a square, fill that square with wood, then rout the pickup proper. Epoxy is great stuff and will work for sure... just not fun to sand. I filled a guitar that had been shot 3x... had to sand down the overfill and it was difficult because the wood around it would sand sooo much easier - and it was maple! so my advice would be - if you are going to do it - be careful to not overfill. I would use cardboard/tape to make a 'barrier' that you could fill and hopefully be close to done.
  2. well, I dunno - never could tell the dif between parkay and butter so...
  3. mistermikev

    How do you cut your f-hole? What bit?

    missed this a while back... thank you for your advice!
  4. currently my best solution is a dremel bit that has a 1/16 cutting head that graduates to a 1/8" shank... just enough room to ride the shank and cut. All the straight shank bits I have will end up cutting my template a little bit. I don't want to build a pin router. Don't want to hand cut my f hole as that would undoubtedly be a disaster. I may have asked this before, but have not settled in on a method yet. Just wondering - how do you do it? if you use a router - what bit are you using? thanks in advance for your advice!
  5. wow, nice job on the parkay (butter). looks very impressionist. sb cool.
  6. mistermikev

    First full build from scratch

    sounds cool.
  7. mistermikev

    Help with first guitar build

    honestly soldering is not hard... I would go that way either way because those clips are the equiv of transistor standoffs... one good jolt away from problems imo. i was about to tell you coil splitting is not a good idea but I guess that model is a 3 coil emg... so you should be good there. cheers
  8. mistermikev

    First full build from scratch

    wow, that's turning out really nice. have you mentioned what finish you are going to go for? with it being all blonde like that I would think something lighter in color would look great. keep up the great work!
  9. I dunno, perhaps I should do it myself... gonna be hard to match that finish. was going for a very natural look... almost unfinished. all joking aside: you are a super nice guy for stepping in on that. respect.
  10. no... quit joking around... clearly the neck profile is all wrong! and the fretboard profile... and if you want to split hairs the scale length could use a little work... and the finish... but other than that! it's very close! (hehe).
  11. scottr you da man. I nominate for member of the year... always quick with advice here on the forum and I certainly appreciate that. andy - mistakes: I know them well. nice recovery. on that note... I wonder if you'd be able to help ME with a similar mistake scottr? below is a pic of a neck I built that was supposed to be a 27" scale fanned fret neck... boy is my face red as clearly I did not hit my mark. (hehe)
  12. got my set neck stock planed down and sanded... installed my truss rod in the bolt version. used a bull nose 1/4 in combo with a normal 1/4 bit so that the bottom of the channel is mostly radiused except for the parts where the truss requires a flat bottom. sharpened my chisel and cut some corners... voilla, fits like a glove.
  13. so today I broke wood on my next build(s). Decided I couldn't decide so doing two. One 25.5" sl 12" radius and one 25" sl no radius. I'm calling them the "Sweet Spot Blonde" and the "Sweet Spot Blue". Here are my objectives for this(these) builds: 1) 4 pickup strat - why? A.) more 2/4 position, B.) Tele middle position sounds C.) hi ouput vs lo output pickups but better combining 2) better neck access I'm going to do one w a bolt on with ferrules instead of plate and the other with a long tenon and sculpted set neck 3) heel adjust via spoke wheel on both, the 3x3 with have 14degree headstock angle 4) solidbody/semi-hollow hybrid. per my design doc below I'm going to have the bridge two pickups in a solid block and the neck two pickups in a hollow chamber. Hoping to get a high gain bridge sound that doesn't feedback, but the fat 'semi-hollow' sound in the neck. Neck two pickups will be mounted directly to the neck (for the set neck version) 5) radius top - top will be bent on a 30" radius... edges will still have a roundover and two layers of binding staggered. One will be rosewood binding, the other white plastic. 6) "sweet spot" wiring: will do my std 3 way plus 6 position rotary wiring but going to re-work it to get more variation in the inside-coil vs outside coils modes. Plan to try to mix series and parallel there. Both will have a 3-way, master volume, rotary, and push-pull mid boost. no tone (I never use it anyway). Here are the concept drawings... some details: my templates: today I cut two big chunks of mahog out of my stash, planed them, rough cut them to shape, and weighed them... ===========update 1/27/19 ============== well my GUITAR body is on a diet anyway! ==========UPDATE 01/31/2019========== got both my bodys fully hogged out, belly cut 'steps' in... both right at 3lbs. ========== UPDATE: 02/03/2019 ========== feel like I got a lot done this weekend anyway! cut my rear trem cavity and my battery store... haven't bought material for covers yet so may have to alter the depth later but figured I might as well get them in there. also started the work for my radius jig this weekend... might have been better ways to do it as this felt like a lot of work but for better or worse here's how I approached; started off with a 31.5" radius. I'm using poplar here and if I had to do over I'd have chosen oak or something a bit more rigid. after I got one rail cut out i trimmed it up nice and used it as the template for another 3 rails. Was planning on doubling up the rails to keep them from bending easily at the center. at top center here you can see the sled I made to ride the rails. Then I switched over to working on my neck pocket templates. since the one neck will have a 'paddle' it adds a little complexity to determining if it is on the body straight. I overcame this by adding a board at the back to 'raise up' my centerline. after precision 'jacking' with the clamps and loosening/tightening screws, etc (hehe)... I arrived at a fit that is "tighter than a fish's turd cutter" to quote Larry the cable guy. and the centerline is spot on: then routered out my pocket for the paddle neck: ==========update 02/04/2019 ========== so, got my radius jig somewhat setup. need to fine tune it a bit... trim off the ends, add some teflon spacers from a cutting board to my router mount so it won't rock, and trim off just a hair from the inside of it so it slides a little bit easier. I want a little bit of resistance so I decided to forgo the bearings. the convex version is sitting on my rails with approx 1.75" of room I could move downward, and the sled is sitting 2.25 high. this is about perfect as the blade needs to stick out 1/2" from the bottom to achieve a 30" radius. adjusting this thing is sort of a pain and since the concave version sits a hair low... think I'll probably just mount a couple of 2x4s to raise the body up instead. have enough clearance to do 22" piece so perfect for a body. a bit tired so this is as far as we go tonight. ========== update 02/06/2019 ========== last night I roughed out my two necks... learned why birdseye is often called 'rock maple' (it's not because it's meant for rock n roll). long story long I probably ruined a fairly new timber wolf blade with a kink as I tried to back out of a cut and it was bound (saw was off). my wood grain dictated to me that the bolt version is going to be a rev headstock... I had to agree. flamed maple piece isn't looking so bad either. really big wide flames in this so can't wait to see it planed down. almost looks like quilt when you catch it at the right angle. lots of little tan flecks on this piece so figured I try out a neck in it. cut a small piece of birdseye for the bolt version. neck pickups will mount to this and spring claw will screw into it. need to remove the cove edge so it sits flush will likely do that next. ========== update 02/17/19 ========== "like all the bowling alleys had been destroyed... sos I spent most my time looking for beer". and that would explain why all I have to show for the last two weeks is the following... here's how I did my neck pocket for the bolt on w 7" radius at heel: 1 rough cut around neck pocket leaving approx 1/8" gap, cover neck template with masking tape... 2 clamp everything down and ensure it is on center... 3 fill 1/8" gap with epoxy... 4 break the pieces apart - later I will use this as a guide to make a 3/4" template. same process for my trem rout cover... made some truss rod templates: finished neck pockets: kept checking my birdseye and it was stable over the last two weeks (since I rough cut it) so I planed it down and it's ready for final shape cut. made a template for my gretsch inlays... will lay this at an angle on the fretboard to keep the inlay flat on the radius and then dremel out the areas... got my set neck stock planed down and sanded... installed my truss rod in the bolt version. used a bull nose 1/4 in combo with a normal 1/4 bit so that the bottom of the channel is mostly radiused except for the parts where the truss requires a flat bottom. sharpened my chisel and cut some corners... voilla, fits like a glove. and that's all I got in me today! man am I beat!
  14. "like all the bowling alleys had been destroyed... sos I spent most my time looking for beer". and that would explain why all I have to show for the last two weeks is the following... here's how I did my neck pocket for the bolt on w 7" radius at heel: 1 rough cut around neck pocket leaving approx 1/8" gap, cover neck template with masking tape... 2 clamp everything down and ensure it is on center... 3 fill 1/8" gap with epoxy... 4 break the pieces apart - later I will use this as a guide to make a 3/4" template. same process for my trem rout cover... made some truss rod templates: finished neck pockets: kept checking my birdseye and it was stable over the last two weeks (since I rough cut it) so I planed it down and it's ready for final shape cut. made a template for my gretsch inlays... will lay this at an angle on the fretboard to keep the inlay flat on the radius and then dremel out the areas... today I plan to plane down my set neck version, and perhaps do the final finish trim on my bolt version... my whiteside bit was like "what b17c#, what!?"
  15. May have to try that some time. very nice. thanks for the tip.
  16. looks pretty smooth to me. nice work. what kind of poly did you use?
  17. having deja vu or just getting old... swore I posted this question but it disappeared? Perhaps I'm just getting old? Anywho, for current build I want to add inlay before doing my binding... inlay will be right at edge of fretboard. I want a crisp line and am opposed to trying to sand the inlays @ the rabbit for the binding. Wondering if anyone has hit mop with a router before? I would guess there is some risk of prying the inlay free. i can live with that. negligible risk of damage to the bit? risk to shattering the inlay?
  18. jeez... I thought perhaps I forgot to hit save on this topic... didn't realize I posted in tutorials! yes, I meant gretsch style inlay. the issue with filing/sanding is a binding channel is very shallow and I'm concerned about an imperfect line between the binding/inlay. bandsaw - I would have thought a bandsaw would shatter mop. kind of gives me hope. I suppose the other issue is possible discoloration of the mop w heat. this mop is pretty thick... easily 1/16". I think I will take your suggestion and try it on a piece of scrap. thanks for the replies!
  19. my current build has sort-of-gretsch-style inlays and binding. I don't want to install the inlay after the binding. So I'm thinking I'm going to do inlay, then cut through the inlay to do the rabbit for the binding. I suspect this should be fine with a sharp bit... but wanted to ask if anyone has done it. I have replacement inlays so... if one shatters - ok, but I also don't want to damage a bit. The mop I'm using cuts really easy with a jewelers saw so I'm thinking the router should have no problem cutting thru... but am also concerned about the prospect of ca glue giving in to the forces. Don't want to have to block sand the inlay channel after inlay either, as it will be white mop on white binding and I'm sure that anything less than a crisp line is going to look like dog poo! thanks in advance for your advice.
  20. mistermikev

    cutting mop with a router - ever done it?

    bloody L where is that thread (category)? crap tutorials and reference... my bad!
  21. mistermikev

    First Vee and first neck thru

    wow, that is an ambitious build, looks cool. sounds like you are doing a wenge top -I'm assuming the channel between electronics and jack will be routed? Like the inlay but personally would like to see them reversed... had you considered that? Just a thought. I'm sure it will be awesome and am not casting aspersions when I say: I've always loved the look of a v and the access but have never been able to get along with them because I sit and play classical style. I think they used to put an 'arm' on the bottom bout that could flip out and work as a leg rest... always wanted to try one with that... but haven't seen one with it for some time. rock on!
  22. mistermikev

    Seymour-Duncan Antiquity Texas Hot pickups

    not quite the same thing but I have an antiquity(middle) in a strat mixed with fender tex spec. I've seen video demos of the two showing the fenders as slightly more dull/lifeless but in my case I actually like the tex spec a lot more. the antiquity is great but the tex spec are a bit hotter and that fits me a hair more. Probably lost some sparkle but in an alder body w maple top and maple neck they are (all) still a hair bright for my taste. hope in some way that helps.
  23. looking great. the nice thing about poly is you can abuse it with sandpaper and get it smooth and shoot a final coat. little elbow grease and another shot and she will be smooth as silk. keep up the great work.
  24. mistermikev

    Lots of designs

    right on zeke. some good stuff there. I am much the same... have about 50 dif designs going on in the background but admittedly 80% of my stuff is just a version of something... while everything comes from somewhere you have more originality in your design work and I admire that. good on ya. yesterday I spent an hour and a half just trying to build a simple template for my truss access... surprisingly hard to just do a simple 1/2 straight slot without any wobble. sometimes things go that way and I retreat to my designs!
  25. still kind of working out some details (as always!). Specifically - the headstock... would love your honest impressions good or bad. the concept here is going to be a modern strat. I'm going to do a angled headstock, set neck design... but with a long and wide tennon that will reach the two neck pickups... so I can (hopefully) achieve a neck-thru-like neck transition. I'm thinking I will actually mount the two neck pickups in the neck wood, as well as the trem tension screws - so I'll have sort of a paddle at that end that will cover the width of the pickups. (Why, i dunno, cause I think it will be cool) The two neck pickups will be in a hollow chamber, the two bridge pickups in a solid block... to hopefully get a solidbody and hollowbody sound in one guitar. will be heel adjust via a wheel in a small opening between frets, but with a faux truss cover at the headstock to tie-the-room-together. Thinking I might try to do the top at a slight radius. All of these things should be a considerable challenge for me... hoping to push my abilities beyond their current limits.
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