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Entry for September 2018's Guitar Of The Month is open!


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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev

    Unconventional (?) CNC Project

    def some interesting stuff here. nice work.
  2. just passing it on - forgive me if not in the right forum... fyi - sweetwater has a deal on strings - 3 sets ernie ball slinky for 9.99 but also a buy 2 get one free... so I got 9 sets for $19.99 shipped (2.22/set). it is a tricky little 'option' at the bottom of the screen where you can select buy 2 get 1 free as you add to the cart. even after hitting it I didn't see 3-sets-of-3 in my cart so I contacted them... sales rep said it was legit and ensured they shipped me 9 sets. it's good til oct 2nd I believe so... heads up - just thought someone would appreciate.
  3. quite the ordeal yesterday... was on craigslist for $200 which is a bit overpriced but I've gotten snaked on the last 3 i tried to buy so... started heading to the guys house and he calls and tells me he went out to test it and shredded the drive belt... if I still want it I can have it for $140. got there saw a dry rotted drive belt... ran the thing and it seemed to run good so took the plunge. I don't have very high expectations... but it does have an 8" clearance so... am hopeful it can resaw. Would love to hear negative/positive feedback about this model. If anyone has an 'words of advice' about setting it up etc.
  4. mistermikev

    finally got a 14" bandsaw!

    good point re tension... will do. speaking of wheel bearings... these spin fine... but starting to hear a little noise when they turn. how hare is it to replace bearings and do you recommend sizing and buying better quality or just go with the craftsman?
  5. mistermikev

    finally got a 14" bandsaw!

    wow, that's a heck of an endorsement. We'll have to see how the motor holds up. I think these belts must be really prone to dry rot because I've heard a lot of that. Recently replaced my craftsman drill press drive belt with a auto belt and it made a solid difference... perhaps I should try to find something similar for this. thank you for the info!
  6. mistermikev

    finally got a 14" bandsaw!

    thank you sir! I have heard the comment about bearings from multiple sources now! apparently the prior owner replaced them recently with skateboard bearings. I was a skater when i was young and am aware that generally the bearings employed are good quality german ones so... now just need to get my belt and then ensure they are set right! as always - thank you for the response.
  7. mistermikev

    A quick question about 🥜

  8. mistermikev

    A quick question about 🥜

    go look at graph tec radius nuts... they have a little nub on the bottom so you can sand it lightly to meet the radius of your board. You'll have to sand a bit anyway to get the height right so...
  9. been hunting on the internet but everyone is always talking about string slot depth. I'm asking about the typical slot depth for the actual entire nut. I see on some of my guitars it looks like it tends to be as deep as the fretboard. IOW the slot would just be the absence of the fretboard. Just wondering... for those who have a les paul style nut... is there a sliver of fretboard wood under your nut?
  10. mistermikev

    Flat fingerboards.

    my current build is no radius. I love playing on classical guitars, but then I have loved playing on 7.5" radius too... just pushes one in a different direction. I like my action as low as possible... to where there is no buzz if played soft... but string/fret buzz if played hard. Like you I am hopeful that no radius will play nice... but in this case the whole reason for going that route is because of slide guitar. I find it much easier to play slide if I only have to worry about dampening strings I'm not using... and not slide position.
  11. Thanks for the response. Not really referring to the nut brand, but more the style of install. I said gibson because if you look at the typical fender, they have a lot of fretboard under the nut. On most gibsons it looks like they remove more material. I've always thought the fender way is probably better because it has a barrier on both sides of the nut. Not sure if their are other reasons for one vs the other. Anywho, thanks for the response!
  12. so... I don't want to oversell what is really a minor thing... but I learned a handy trick today. the problem to solve: a better way to center your neck in your jig for cutting the truss channel exact center? What I was doing is simply looking at it really close and trying to line up the router bit with lines that are marking the truss channel-to-be. I did a search and the first result is a suggestion to use a drill bit to start both edges of the channel. Then you can drop your router bit in the hole on one side... clamp... move it to other side and drop in the hole... clamp... re-check initial side. Very simple, but illuminating (to me anyway). If you have a simple tip that you have found revelatory... I'd love to hear about it!
  13. mistermikev

    Guitar template design

    so bichy then? have been going back and forth on that design a bit... who knows where it will end up but it sure is fun! thanks for the comment.
  14. mistermikev

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    that is something else. def on 'a whole nutha level' and a shoe in for gotm. The metal details and paint and logo... just really pro. very nice work. I feel like there is some corinthian leather missing there (jk)
  15. mistermikev

    Overheating Capacitors

    overheated is pretty general... it's hard to put a blanket statement over how all caps will react. I can tell you that if you mean plugging 50v into a 16v electrolytic... "You will know". google exploding capacitor.
  16. ... funny, I hit the sad emoji on accident scottr... so don't call the suicide hotline(for me) just yet! (hehe) thanks for the reply. My main concern here is that it'd probably be a lot easier to fix my mistakes now... as opposed to once it's on the guitar. I was afraid that once you see the real edges of the fretboard it might become more apparent... but I agree also that once the frets and strings are there there's an awful lot of distractions to focus on. I think I might attach the fretboard and take another look at it. thank you all very much for your responses!
  17. just wondering how obvious my mistakes are here... I could see them from space, and even when I close my eyes. Can't decide if I need a mulligan here or if I should just chalk it up to my greeness and move on. Can you point out my flaws in order of severity? or er um... what is your vote: "finish him" (thumbs down)?
  18. mistermikev

    Telecaster for a friend

    the a.lee is looking great. how did you do that logo? is that wood burning I see there? also your rubber band toy - I thought that was real. very nice. cheers
  19. mistermikev

    6 string roya

    very cool bass. love the top. will be watching.
  20. mistermikev

    First full build from scratch

    looking really good! so is that a 339 shape or 335? I've often wondered why you don't see more semi hollows made this way. In theory the one piece back/sides should be better. Gibson now makes the midtown which is similar construction so... perhaps now that the 'pope' of guitars has ordained it! Really love it - might have to do similar build someday.
  21. mistermikev

    Skunk stripe jazz bass

    well, I'm no expert... far from it... but I'm guessing that would be determined by the length of your truss rod unless you are going to make it(skunk stripe) longer to be 'period correct'.
  22. mistermikev

    Turner Model 1 replica

    very unique build... I like where this is going!
  23. so this is what I'm basically shooting for... I used pics of my actual top and my actual tailpiece here so... going to be fairly hollow: got a few templates made so far... challenges: I'm a little unsure how my binding transition between neck and headstock should play out. ideas include A. trying to put a slight angle on the headstock and keep the transistion straight(only have 7/8" material so... i don't know. don't really want to glue in a scarf either so... maybe not. B. just cut the headstock binding channel while the headstock is full thickness and simply stop the binding at a point close to the transistion. C. I'm doing a headstock overlay... could bind it prior to install or cut it short to make the binding channel (I believe this is what norris did?). next step: make the body route template. ... and templates galore: some wood pile shots: UPDATE: *-==========08/09/18==========-* so... I've broken ground. starting off at 6lbs 7oz... that is fairly light for 2" frican mahog, yes? all for now. UPDATE: *-==========08/12/18==========-* made a little more progress this weekend... 1 outta 2 ain't bad: toggle cavity control plate worked swiimmingly - that dewalt saw is awesome... used a bigger saw for the other cavity but failed as the blade was too thick... so I'll have to pickup some 1/8" mahog for that. revealed some nice grain planing down my neck blank... UPDATE: -==========08/20/18==========- obligatory forstner shot and after some work with the bowl bit... down to 2lbs 9 oz started to work on joining the top... with the bit taking off 1/16" on either side... =====================update 08/21/18 mr natural: you da man. used your trick for gluing up my super thin top. worked like a charm! Here's a shot of the top being held down by a bunch of slate tile. UPDATE: -==========08/26/18==========- glued my top on... used my dremel to cut the inlay channels in my fretboard... final product... routered off the excess on my top... sounds great when you finger drum on it! no puppy toys were harmed in the making of this photo... UPDATE: -==========09/03/18==========- so did binding this weekend... went pretty good all things considered. I taped/dry-fitted and bent the binding first... using a hair dryer (heat gun is just too much for binding I think). Then I used ca glue to go around the body again and pry-apart/glue/re-tape. and a closeup... started carving down my neck too... I still haven't round a good bandsaw so I used a jig saw. This meant a lot of excess to remove... so I just used a straight edge and multiple passes to prevent blowout. one step closer!