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mistermikev

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Posts posted by mistermikev


  1. just passing it on - forgive me if not in the right forum...
    fyi - sweetwater has a deal on strings - 3 sets ernie ball slinky for 9.99 but also a buy 2 get one free... so I got 9 sets for $19.99 shipped (2.22/set).

    it is a tricky little 'option' at the bottom of the screen where you can select buy 2 get 1 free as you add to the cart.  even after hitting it I didn't see 3-sets-of-3 in my cart so I contacted them... sales rep said it was legit and ensured they shipped me 9 sets.

    it's good til oct 2nd I believe so... heads up - just thought someone would appreciate.


  2. 1 hour ago, crafty said:

    You're welcome. I'm sure you'll get good service out of it. The little things on a bandsaw will annoy the crap out of you, but once they're set up they are usually great. One other tip--make sure to release the tension on the blade when you're not using it. It will help the blades last longer and save the wheel bearings. Mine does not have a quick release lever, so I have to manually twist the knob every time.

    good point re tension... will do.  speaking of wheel bearings... these spin fine... but starting to hear a little noise when they turn.  how hare is it to replace bearings and do you recommend sizing and buying better quality or just go with the craftsman?


  3. thank you sir!  I have heard the comment about bearings from multiple sources now!  apparently the prior owner replaced them recently with skateboard bearings.  I was a skater when i was young and am aware that generally the bearings employed are good quality german ones so... now just need to get my belt and then ensure they are set right!  as always - thank you for the response.


  4. DSCN1632.thumb.JPG.13cffb08a16fc76abe12fc6a9522d120.JPG

    quite the ordeal yesterday... was on craigslist for $200 which is a bit overpriced but I've gotten snaked on the last 3 i tried to buy so...

    started heading to the guys house and he calls and tells me he went out to test it and shredded the drive belt... if I still want it I can have it for $140.  got there saw a dry rotted drive belt... ran the thing and it seemed to run good so took the plunge.

    I don't have very high expectations... but it does have an 8" clearance so... am hopeful it can resaw. 

    Would love to hear negative/positive feedback about this model.  If anyone has an 'words of advice' about setting it up etc.

    • Like 1

  5. my current build is no radius.  I love playing on classical guitars, but then I have loved playing on 7.5" radius too... just pushes one in a different direction.  I like my action as low as possible... to where there is no buzz if played soft... but string/fret buzz if played hard.  Like you I am hopeful that no radius will play nice... but in this case the whole reason for going that route is because of slide guitar.  I find it much easier to play slide if I only have to worry about dampening strings I'm not using... and not slide position.

     

    • Like 1

  6. 4 hours ago, curtisa said:

    Slot depth is governed by how much clearance you need over the first fret to avoid buzzing on the open strings, but not so high that you end up with big intonation problems or unnecessarily difficult action within the first half-dozen or so frets. It shouldn't matter if the nut was made by Gibson, Fender, Ibanez or K-mart.

    Thanks for the response.  Not really referring to the nut brand, but more the style of install.  I said gibson because if you look at the typical fender, they have a lot of fretboard under the nut.  On most gibsons it looks like they remove more material.  I've always thought the fender way is probably better because it has a barrier on both sides of the nut.  Not sure if their are other reasons for one vs the other.  

    Anywho, thanks for the response!


  7. been hunting on the internet but everyone is always talking about string slot depth.  I'm asking about the typical slot depth for the actual entire nut.  I see on some of my guitars it looks like it tends to be as deep as the fretboard.  IOW the slot would just be the absence of the fretboard.  Just wondering... for those who have a les paul style nut... is there a sliver of fretboard wood under your nut?


  8. so... I don't want to oversell what is really a minor thing... but I learned a handy trick today. 

    the problem to solve: a better way to center your neck in your jig for cutting the truss channel exact center?

    What I was doing is simply looking at it really close and trying to line up the router bit with lines that are marking the truss channel-to-be. 

    I did a search and the first result is a suggestion to use a drill bit to start both edges of the channel.  Then you can drop your router bit in the hole on one side... clamp... move it to other side and drop in the hole... clamp... re-check initial side. 

    Very simple, but illuminating (to me anyway). 

     

    If you have a simple tip that you have found revelatory... I'd love to hear about it!


  9. ... funny, I hit the sad emoji on accident scottr... so don't call the suicide hotline(for me) just yet! (hehe) 

    thanks for the reply. 

    My main concern here is that it'd probably be a lot easier to fix my mistakes now... as opposed to once it's on the guitar.  I was afraid that once you see the real edges of the fretboard it might become more apparent... but I agree also that once the frets and strings are there there's an awful lot of distractions to focus on.  I think I might attach the fretboard and take another look at it. 
    thank you all very much for your responses!


  10. looking really good!  so is that a 339 shape or 335?  I've often wondered why you don't see more semi hollows made this way.  In theory the one piece back/sides should be better.    Gibson now makes the midtown which is similar construction so... perhaps now that the 'pope' of guitars has ordained it!  Really love it - might have to do similar build someday.


  11. 8 hours ago, Guitar Goomba said:

    For gluing thin, flat surfaces, I use slabs of granite.  I sourced mine (for free) from a local countertop jobber and got a couple of the waste pieces that come out from the sink hole.  You can cut it using a diamond blade on a circular saw, just go slow and take shallow cuts.  You end up with perfectly flat surfaces and can stack weights on top for additional pressure.

     

    Loving the build so far!

    thank you!


  12. so did binding this weekend... went pretty good all things considered.  I taped/dry-fitted and bent the binding first... using a hair dryer (heat gun is just too much for binding I think).  Then I used ca glue to go around the body again and pry-apart/glue/re-tape.

    DSCN1552.thumb.JPG.7399fe5aa5afcda0a86d730a2f0db32e.JPG

    and a closeup...

    DSCN1554.thumb.JPG.5564992b5890c2cd022ba19c02509f42.JPG

     

    started carving down my neck too... I still haven't round a good bandsaw so I used a jig saw.  This meant a lot of excess to remove... so I just used a straight edge and multiple passes to prevent blowout.  DSCN1557.thumb.JPG.9f84b9590bd610a2cef3f7f095ed0318.JPG

    one step closer!DSCN1559.thumb.JPG.9c157be14f50c8af30fa1c72cb667abb.JPG

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