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Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. On 12/9/2018 at 6:39 PM, ShatnersBassoon said:

    The Bootstrap stuff looks great, but I seem to imagine there being some issues getting them (I'm a brit) probably well worth a look at though! I quite like the sound of the P90's on the Axetec website, as a bonus they are a little less deep than some that I have seen, so less routing.


    Sound samples are pretty good.

    yeah, the shipping might be up there but you might want to inquire as the guy over there is super nice.  as I understand, axetec = irongear = artec.  Lot of folks having artec build to their specs... gfs, calig, etc.  I've heard some good reviews about irongear,

    recently got some artec lipsticks that - while they aren't anywhere near seymour or dimarzio or chandler, etc... I'm very satisfied with them.  They sound better to me than my gfs lipsticks but that could be the guitar or that the fact that they are 90mm instead of the shorter strat style.  The one thing I've seen with chinese pickups is that they work great for the bridge as they tend to be overwound and dark... but in the neck they tend to be muddy as a result -but this is nothing a simple magnet replacement won't cure imo.


    3 hours ago, Ronkirn said:

    Quite possibly the finest, most articulate, well balanced and most versatile of all pups can be found here,.,, http://wildepickups.com

    And at the insanely low prices Becky still asks, they are the "deal of the Century"



    i am a big fan of bill lawrence rip.  I have a gibson bill lawrence from an old sg90 that I love.  Also have a dual-rail that is pretty nice.  Don't think they do p90s tho... I didn't see them.


  2. 5 minutes ago, ScottR said:

    The back?

    It was roughed in with a right angle sander and a random orbital sander, and cleaned up with that long sanding block pictured, and  a foam block that comes with micromesh with a piece of .020" polycarbonate adhered to one side. That flexes enough to get into all the concave areas and is still hard enough to not leave ripples over the grain changes.

    The neck join was carved with hand gouges and cleaned up with the various sized drums from my spindle sander and foam sanding blocks.

    The front was rough carved with hand gouges and then subjected to the same treatment as the back.


    Honestly the front stands out to me more than anything altho the back and heel is/are outstanding too.  I love the soft curve of that top.  I would not have guessed those tools but it occurs to me that some of the better woodworkers - the tool just doesn't seem to matter - they just will the thing into shape!  Very nice work.

    I have plans to do something similar on my next build... but had planned to try to use a roundover and go 3/16 too deep and then use a rasp to put in a gradient.  My rasp is really cheap.  I thought for sure there was gonna be a rasp involved here.  Do you ever use one?  if so what one?

  3. just my two cents and probably not worth one but...

    I read that your selling and I just don't think lipsticks nor p90s do that great.  Sure, there are people who love them (like me and both!) but I would think practically speaking there might be better options... for instance:

    gfs offers a dual lipstick in a humbucker format (get to put lipsticks in and if later buyer wants to swap out it'd be much easier). 

    Haven't heard the seymour rail/90, but anything seymour is good imo, so is  a nice option for p90s...

    bootstrap pickups - I've bought a few pickups from them and haven't heard them yet but they get good reviews and def look quality to me... they offer an interesting set of humbucker sized p90s here: https://bootstrappickups.com/products/bootstrap-skookum-90-clean-for-humbucker

    just a thought.  cheers and looking fwd to seeing this idea come to life!

  4. On 12/3/2018 at 3:40 PM, Norris said:

    So, one quick and cheap Ebay purchase later, we have a 1/2" drill bit. And we have some correct sized holes


    Although the body wood looks mahogany-ish, it's relatively less dense - lighter and softer. I can't remember the name of it. To make sure the inserts sit firmly I wicked CA around the holes (the above picture was before the CA wicking)

    Then it was pretty straightforward to clamp my template on and route the bridge pickup cavity. The depth was adjusted to the neck angle - 15mm this time. 


    (Only the pickup covers shown there. I've not sunk them that deep!)

    Now you may be wondering what that small hole is doing just in front of the bridge pickup. Erm, it's a slight miscalculation screwing the template to the body blank when I first shaped it. Oh well. There are options though, depending on which finish we settle on. If painted solid colour, I'll plug it and it will be blended with the grain filling. Whether painted or not there's a fair chance it will have a scratch plate covering it. Personally my preferred option is to stay with a natural/dyed finish, and I have something in mind for that option too :)

    I dunno man... that tail piece might be a little high.  (jk - looking good!)

    • Haha 1

  5. thanks for the reply.  I often go to a couple commercial/residential lumber yards in my area... unfortunately it's impossible(for me) to judge the weight of an 11' 8/4 piece of ash as it is heavy no matter what!  These places are very reasonable on price... but aren't going to weigh or even cut things down for me, and to "look through a pile" is a monumental endeavor for me by myself so... I was hoping you where going to tell me there was some discernible quality to the grain that I could look for but it seems you've answered that "no".  Perhaps I'll just order something when I get to that point.

  6. can't wait to see yer geetar as I'll immediately tell you "noice piece of ash".  (sorry, I have a 5th grade sense of humor).  I've always loved ash... and would like to build something in the near future... but weight is a real concern.  Most ash I've come across is so heavy it could turn a thinline into a 9lb guitar.  @Andyjr1515 any tips on finding lighter pieces?  As I understand "swamp ash" is not a species but a marketing term like "true bypass", but are there species I should ask about stock on to (hopefully) find some lighter stuff?

    afa hot pickups... it's a personal pref thing.  best advice: go play some, then play some cold pickups.  personally I love a very hot pickup in the bridge and a very cold pickup in the neck.  I think they mix well, but I'd be surprised if fifty people didn't totally disagree with me.  also, I've loved and hated the same pickup depending on the wood it's in so... there's that!

  7. 2 hours ago, ScottR said:

    I suspect that your dull areas are actually burn through. I have never had a problem re-coating areas  and getting a gloss where I've sanded through. You can get a high gloss on bare wood with super fine grits like 3000 and then have those areas go dull with compound. The abrasive in compound is free floating in solution and some with remain in the pores/fiber of the bare wood and leave it looking matte. And if you are repairing the burn through areas  with a thin layer of oil and wiping it off quickly you are likely not getting any build up at all...which makes another burn through in the same spot too easy to do.

    My only secret for tru-oil is to get a very thick layer on before leveling. Two or three times what you want the final thickness to be. It shrinks a lot, so without touching it, it the thickness will reduce closer to the final desired thickness. And as Andy says, its initial hardness is much softer than the hardness it achieves after the shrinking stops. It feels hard and takes a fine polish but more is being removed during that polishing than you think..


    Roger that.  your advice is like gold so... I will switch to 3k for buffing and try building it up for another week and give it a couple days to cure this time.

    update: forgot to hit reply... I tested your advice just now and with some 3k then 5k it looks like it is gone.  You have learned me sir... and that is no easy feat.  I bow to your awesomeness!

    • Haha 1

  8. 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    Certainly commiserations, @mistermikev !  

    In all aspects of all the builds I have done, gloss finishing is my bette noire.  Amongst the various methods and finish types of non-spray finishes, tru-oil gloss is, to me, one of the most difficult.  It is why I am always agog and full of admiration of @ScottR 's results.

    I'm not one to give advice here but for tru oil, 3000 grit with a compound strikes me as probably much too harsh.  I note that Scott uses micromesh cloth running up to 12000 grit (which is basically the same material that ladies use to buff their nails).  And I'm not sure he uses a compound.  Also, particularly with tru-oil, I found that the hardening time before any polishing starts is critical.

    Personally, I would hold fire before resorting to polyurethane - which actually has VERY similar issues and obstacles - and maybe hone in with the experts around us to the - probably small - tweaks in your technique to get the tru-oil finish you are after.

    I very much appreciate your reply Andy!  I will take yer advice and hold off for a minute. 

    for the record - the final coat - all I used was a microfibre cloth and turtlewax light compound -no sand paper at all- buffing by hand for no more than 15-30 seconds.  the most recent coats were very thin as I'm wiping off the finish right after applying... so it could be burn thru - just do not have confidence.  admittedly, I did NOT give it ample time to harden.  Still when I have wet sanded back... it really looks to me like there is a good layer of gloss on the entire thing and the 'dull' spots disappear. 

    • Like 1

  9. so... tonight I'm with heavy heart.  I have been working on this finish for quite a while and every time I think I'm done and start to try to buff it... (just buffing with light compound) I get these dull spots.  80% of the finish looks great.  The dull spots just will not shine up.  They are all following the grain in places that were at one point "high spots".  If I wet sand with 1k they disapear and it looks like I've got plenty of finish everywhere.  Over and over - same result.

    I was reading a thread on tdpri and was looking for feedback on its accuracy from "the tru oil gods" here at projgtr:


    I've had this same problem. Where it really becomes a problem is when you build up new surface film and the flat spots still remain.
    I have a theory about this. When you start applying the TO, you do get a little penetration into the pores/structure of the wood. This alters the physical characteristics of the wood - basically locks the fibers together. From that point on the penetrated wood will demonstrate a different effect from sanding/polishing than the raw wood.
    If you continue on, building film thickness, levelling, polishing, etc and never again make abrasive contact with the surface of the wood you will not have a problem.
    Conversely, if you do sand/polish down to the actual wood, but do so evenly and everywhere, you also do not have a problem.
    The problem occurs when you contact the wood in only a few spots. When you do that those areas sand/polish to a different effect - and because the effect is in the wood it will remain no matter what you put on top of it.
    The only reliable solution I've found is to sand/strip everything down to bare or near bare and start over again. Try to spot sand it down to bare wood and all you'll do is make a ring at the transition zone.

    I don't want to sand it down to the bare wood as I'm really happy with how the dye turned out and will not risk screwing that up.  I am thinking that tomorrow I'm going to wet sand it back down, and shoot some poly. 

    I guess I'm thinking that the next time I need to really build up the to before doing any sanding and ensure I have enough there to not cause this again (yes, even at this point I haven't given up entirely on someday getting a good gloss using tru oil!)  Would love any/all feedback and perhaps even condolences at this point!

  10. weight is redic... but that's ash for ya (must not be from the species "swampus ashus" huh?).  just my opinion... but I honestly really like the wood of that guitar and if it were for me (i know, i know - i can't have them all) I would consider making a wood pickguard (i also like this pickguard shape) replacement, carve into the back to make it thin-line, and put the kat on the backside.  upside is you wouldn't have to worry about redo on the carve.  just my 2 cents - I know you aren't asking.

    • Like 1

  11. ADFinalLesson I hear ya.  good enough for page it's probably better than good enough for me.  on the other hand... if you are going to go through all the trouble to build a lp... why not shell out a few bux more to get a bookmatch.  I can see it from both sides.  I guess in the end I'll have to see what my wood looks like after I cut it into guitar sized pieces.  thanks for the reply/encouragement!

  12. jeez, stuggling to finish 1 build going on 4 months here, then again I've built a lot of pedals and such in that time so... yup still feel like crap about it.  good on ya.  I'm noticing a pattern in your builds!  prs fan much!!  some beauty there... specially the (what looks like) wenge one.  good work. look fwd to seeing your build threads.