Jump to content

Entry for August 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open to all!
ENTER HERE!

mistermikev

GOTM Winner
  • Content count

    251
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev

    Recessed Mini Toggles

    bracket is a good idea. afa post - thing about me... I gotta lotta ideas I stole that I wanna try - who knows what build they will end up on but will do if/when!
  2. mistermikev

    Recessed Mini Toggles

    nice contribution... good idea. I could see plexiglass working well as a bracket... could use the volume pot as the mount for it. Might have to steal that idea at some point!
  3. mistermikev

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    I concur... amaz-balls.
  4. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    so I've done some looking around at ideas for radius fretboard jig... was planning on taking a shot at it. my plan was to mount my router to a 24" board and do a radius cut... then move back an inch (compensating also for other side of blade) and cut another line. do that twice to make two 12" radi cleats. attach together with a 3/4" square in the middle to mount my router on either side of it. Should be able to make radius blocks, then flip over and radius a fretboard. if that makes any sense. my question is... anyone use this type of jig and comments on how well the idea works? pitfalls? I'm guessing your best results will be running the router up and down the wood length-wise and then moving along the radius for another pass?
  5. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    true dat!
  6. mistermikev

    Bokchoi's Double Humbucker Tele

    hehe... I would react to this post but I've run out of reactions... so in short - looks good!
  7. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    Roger that... oddly enough at first I was trying to sand down the high spots... and in the end I found that full length strokes worked better. Also trying to lighten up my pressure - both things you have advised. so thank you for the good advice!
  8. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    right as rain as usual. I suppose in the end - even if I use a jig/router - I will have to sand it to get the tool marks out so... no way of escaping! Have to get better at sanding to a dimension for sure. I think the thing that has been holding me back there, is I was using a 3m sanding block... only 4-5" long. I've recently picked up a harbor freight auto-body sanding block. it's about 14" long and has a nice big handle... for $7! working pretty good so far because this morning I sanded my neck blank and it looked pretty straight. We'll see what happens after a few days of 'adjustment'!
  9. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    hehe... my whole thought process on that is "yeah, YOU might be able to keep it straight but me - unlikely!" I find it difficult to get a perfectly straight flat neck blank! goes something like: sand, sand, sand... still a crack of light... sand, sand, sand... dang it it still hasn't moved... sand, sand, sand... and on and on like that! more importantly... I feel like it is the same technology - to radius a body or a fretboard. If I can learn how to make it work for one - the other will be a piece of cake... maybe. Also if I can make a radius that flips I'll be able to make better fb sanding blocks. Seems like a lot of benefit from one skill/jig.
  10. mistermikev

    32" scale p bass "the picalow"

    thank you sir!
  11. I don't care if no one ever responds to my posts... I'm having fun so... here is my progress so far: had bought a delta band saw - just an 8". hoping I'd be able to re-saw the 5" 6/4 walnut I bought for a neck... didn't work so well. actually got about 6" into it but just was stopping the saw at that point. I suppose if I bought a better blade perhaps I could muddle through but figured I'd "go with the grain" and work on the body for now. used my router sled to plane it down to approx 1.5". calipers says I'm within 8/1000 thickness on all measured edges so - close enough for me. so drilled some holes and used my jig saw to ruff cut the shape used my drill press and barrel sander on it...but right away blew out a small piece at the bottom edge. so I read up on downhill routing and switched to my whiteside bit 3/4 instead of 3/8. that worked a lot better. the chunk was glued back in but I think it was completely routered off in the end so - no worries there. routed out my f holes cavities and gave her some random weight relief... applied black epoxy to some voids and glued my top on. till next time!
  12. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    thanks as always for the advice. doing it by hand... I'm not sure it would be accurate enough to glue a top on to afterwards. and the top in mind is too thin to carve the radius into. I don't know... will have to think on this some more but i appreciate the feedback.
  13. so this is what I'm basically shooting for... I used pics of my actual top and my actual tailpiece here so... going to be fairly hollow: got a few templates made so far... challenges: I'm a little unsure how my binding transition between neck and headstock should play out. ideas include A. trying to put a slight angle on the headstock and keep the transistion straight(only have 7/8" material so... i don't know. don't really want to glue in a scarf either so... maybe not. B. just cut the headstock binding channel while the headstock is full thickness and simply stop the binding at a point close to the transistion. C. I'm doing a headstock overlay... could bind it prior to install or cut it short to make the binding channel (I believe this is what norris did?). next step: make the body route template. UPDATE: *-==========08/09/18==========-* so... I've broken ground. starting off at 6lbs 7oz... that is fairly light for 2" frican mahog, yes? all for now. UPDATE: *-==========08/12/18==========-* made a little more progress this weekend... 1 outta 2 ain't bad: toggle cavity control plate worked swiimmingly - that dewalt saw is awesome... used a bigger saw for the other cavity but failed as the blade was too thick... so I'll have to pickup some 1/8" mahog for that. revealed some nice grain planing down my neck blank...
  14. UPDATE: *-==========08/12/18==========-* made a little more progress this weekend... 1 outta 2 ain't bad: toggle cavity control plate worked swiimmingly - that dewalt saw is awesome... used a bigger saw for the other cavity but failed as the blade was too thick... so I'll have to pickup some 1/8" mahog for that. revealed some nice grain planing down my neck blank...
  15. mistermikev

    32" scale p bass "the picalow"

    thank you gentlemen! (sorry didn't catch these responses right away)
  16. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    good to hear from you prostheta. that jig is very nice - hardly worth the work to build one but then the experience is worth something. I've seen/heard of lam fingerboards before... I think they offer it as an option at musikraft or warmoth. to be clear... the laminate part is regarding a possible 60" radius on a radiused body using a 3/16ish top. my thinking is to build something that could do both a 20" fretboard radius, and then be re-used for a radiused guitar top. for now its just dreaming but I def appreciate the input!
  17. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    for anyone wondering the same thing (how far can wood bend without steam or releif cuts)... this is an interesting read regarding cold bending... https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/bending_wood_the_wright_way summary: recommended radius/thickness 2-4" radius - 3/32" 4 - 8" radius - 1/8 8 to 12" radius - 3/16 12"+ radius - 1/4"
  18. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    Sorry, kind of jumping back and forth between radius for the fretboard and radius for the body. if you mean the comment: "...consider is how to manage the radius but miss the neck/fretboard´╗┐ on a neck thru guitar" -I was talking about radiusing the body and missing the fretboard/neck when I radius the horns. afa radius a fretboard attached to the neck... no need to do that here.
  19. mistermikev

    anyone use a radius jig?

    share your wisdom? some questions if I may? Can anyone tell me approx what would be the maximum you could bend and glue down a 1/4" top without making releif cuts in it, and without steaming? is this "crazy talk"? in the below drawing I'm planning out a 60" radius planing jig. the drop on either edge would be a hair less than .325 on a typical strat body (pictured in gold'ish below). so both sides figured in the bend would be a .75"ish change over 12.15" body. Ultimately I'd like to be able to put a radius on the front/back of a strat body and then glue down a top over it. any all thoughts would be most appreciated.
  20. mistermikev

    Guitar Of The Month vote - July 2018

    You are too kind and I appreciate.
  21. jeez, that finish just look like a million bucks. you da masta
  22. roger that... avg - good to know. yes, going to hollow out this one... but have 11 feet total of this mahog so... trying to get an idea how heavy an eventual les paul might be! thanks for the response
  23. mistermikev

    Guitar Of The Month vote - July 2018

    Just wanted to say thanks to all, and acknowledge the skill and innovation in the other entries this month that I am humbled by.
  24. so... I've broken ground. starting off at 6lbs 7oz... that is fairly light for 2" frican mahog, yes? all for now. wait... I may have read that wrong (new scale) - that's 6lbs 0.7 oz. Edited 1 minute ago by mistermikev
  25. mistermikev

    Bent side ES style

    Wow, you do a lot of elaborate jigs. not anywhere near this level yet so I very much appreciate you sharing all the detailed photos. rock on.
×