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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. Swift Lite 2

    gtr is def a beauty, love the wood, but I can't help but be distracted by the router base... omg... whats up with them wires? tell me you have batteries in that handle and led lights in that base that turn on when you are holding down the button? if so... amaz balls. if not... what the heck is that? some sort of dooms day device no doubt.
  2. Wanted to start an official build thread for this project. I had posted before regarding questions I had so hopefully you'll forgive what might seem like a double post. Will try to keep this thread focused on evolution... here is the body I bought - not bad for $178. Its a wd 3A flamed maple that has a good split in the back by the control area which I will need to fill in. as posted elsewhere my intended wireup... This weekend I went to rockler here in phoenix. I just found out we had one and man... I could spend years in that store. Staying on point: I bought a piece of 1/8" maple that had a little bit of flame on it ($13). I built it into a trem rout cover and a control cover. Not exactly skilled workmanship as my string holes are 'compensated' (feature not a bug) even though I used a drill press. Didn't bother clamping down my material so - lesson learned! Anywho, good enough for the likes of me so here is what that looks like: also, in the background is a simple jig I built for my dremel router base to use in cutting the 5 way slot once my bits arrive. Here's a shot of the body with the babicz bridge I bought (got a deal on amazon for $117! plus signed up for a card so got $40 off). Wasn't thrilled with the amount of 'wobble' in the posts (when not screwed all the way in) that came with it but I guess the general consensus is it doesn't matter. I bought some wilkinson locking posts but they don't fit as smooth so... I figure I can add washers if I need to raise it - to keep it screwed tight so they don't wobble. my parts bin on the right... so far have a graph tech nut, some gotoh sgs 510z magnum locking tuners, a 5 way super switch, a 4p3t rotary, some gold pickguard screws and a neckplate and screws - so far. Have two texas specials and a seymour antiquity middle in my 'misc' pickups bin so... waiting on a musikraft cbs neck that should be about 4-6wks out yet. will update as I go! Thanks for watching!
  3. thanks for chiming in curtisa. afa the offset for the trem arm... figured I'd have a center line mark (like you mentioned) and just match it up. afa perpendicular... I would assume the factory cnc route would be more likely perpendicular than anything I'd do... but there I go assuming. good point. also good point: I'm only doing one and perhaps over-thinking it. In my defense I have a few weeks to wait for a neck so... guess I'm just getting anxious! thanks again for the response.
  4. Hello folks. Recently posted about doing studs for a 2 point tremolo. Happy to say I have acquired a modest 13" drill press so - going in the right direction anyway! I was thinking... could just drill the holes... but what about a jig that would help me get it right afa a parallel line. I was thinking... maybe take two pieces of pine and build a 'T' that would sit in the trem rout covering the area where the stud would go. Then get the one hole marked and drill, then flip the T so the hole is on the other side? does that make sense? I suppose this would only work as well as I am able to line up the drill bit to that hole in the pine then. Am I wasting effort thinking about it - should I just drill the hole? Measure twice drill once? There's a lot of smart people in here, so surely someone has something better? (keeping in mind I don't have the throat depth to make a jig that would allow me to drill one then slide along a rear parallel to drill the other)
  5. Tele-Pine-Partscaster project!

    also, where are my mannors: sweet tele. Some pretty pine. no sticker is my vote.
  6. Tele-Pine-Partscaster project!

    please forgive if this has been covered... or is otherwise irrelevant but i found it a good trick so passing on... take pickgaurd screws and screw them into the body within the neck pocket facing up, then get the neck lined up and press body and neck together: perfect little x where each neck screw pilot should go.
  7. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    so... all comments ideas thoughts etc welcome. I have a strat with a push/pull to do series vs parallel... love the sounds but can never remember what I'm using when I pull and go to series mode. Building a new strat and wanted something that would ultimately be more straight fwd afa use. Here's what I've come up with... 3 position mode switch: normal, series, tele/other series mode will employ two dummy coils in the normally singe positions. I've removed poles before and while it probably sounds more like a single, I don't think it sounds as good as simply leaving the poles in so my dummies will have polarity and phase. pos 5 will be parallel... tele/other mode is just kind of a 'leftover'. Ultimately I wanted to get bridge + dummy with neck + dummy but I don't want to remove poles, not sure it'll be an improvement if I connect rev to rev wound dummy. don't really want 3 dummy coils! there is some redundency in this mode (4 and 5) so not sure if I'll revisit... but it's hard to do anything in mode 3 without adverse effects on modes 2 and 1 which I'm quite content with. Any ideas here would be welcome... but my constraints are these controls. Ultimately I like the idea of a simple 5 way switch with series vs parallel modes that are similar and hence why I'm not going to use the strat deluxe s1 or nashville s1 scheme. circuit is unverified at present, but I've been over it many times and will verify/update once I get to that point. thanks for looking! as an afterthought... this is a rear route strat so I've got plenty of control room space. will mount my dummies there. also, cap is missing from the master tone at bottom between tone lug 2 and vol lug 2.
  8. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    right on... I'm not expecting a huge difference from parallel: but like series vs parallel without using dummies... I would expect the output of series to be higher than parallel. you say 'less highs' - yes less than a single by itself but more than a parallel dummy at least in theory. When I get to that point - it will be interesting to do a video of series in the light of this video. although it will be different pickups/wood/etc, Perhaps even one comparing magnet vs no magnet. also, theory vs practice - It's interesting to me that although I loose highs w parallel - there is a certain 'sparkle' that is not there without the dummy engaged. It sounds to me like - while there is a loss of highs that happens - there is a (perceived) gain of the very top of the highs - if that makes any sense. I say it "Sounds" like that because I know I'm not gaining highs with a pickup mounted under the guard. I suspect that it is the loss of highs below that they make the very top end stand out a little more. Would have to get it on a scope to actually verify and probably not worth the effort but I'm curious: anyone else hear that? anywho, thanks for humoring me and I appreciate your insight.
  9. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    sorry, just saw your last post now. while everything you said is accurate and I'm not in any way disagreeing... and although I have yet to try the series dummy... I've read there is a perceived (slight) volume increase due to the increased focus on highs - keeping in mind that this is a subjective possibility. Ultimately, we'll see. I'd be really happy with slightly less of a drop in vol compared to parallel... I suspect there is a good chance of that.
  10. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    Hello again... so flat tire this morning resulted in vacation day today... was going to do another demo so figured I'd toss up a vid of my current dummy pickup setup while there may (or may not) be some interest. Hope you like it!
  11. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    oh, also, although this is a ways off as my new neck is still 5weeks out and I have some 'work' to do on this one... I will eventually post some recordings for your and others' curiosity.
  12. strat wireup - 5way + 4p3t

    curtisa - thank you for what I can only guess is a 'mercy post' in that it didn't look like I would get a response! I appreciate. my original notes did have a hand drawn depiction of the pulls and throws much like you would find on a schematic. this is really the diagram I will use to make sure I don't make mistakes at wire-up - so basically exactly what you said. notes are attached. afa dummy coils... I've been very happy with the results on another strat with the pickup placed right next to the neck pickup and wired in parallel to a pot. parallel does cut the output a bit - sort of becomes a tone control with hum cancelling. Def more mellow. Some like, some don't. The one thing it does GUARANTEED is cancel hum just like pos2 and 4. Series should boost the output at the cost of some highs... I will probably do a no load tone pot to compensate. I hear ya on the 'keep it simple'. My hope is this will be pretty straight fwd in modes 1 and 2 where it is essentially the typical 5 way setup but in series and with dummies to hum cancel in mode 2. mode 3: well all I'll remember later is that pos1 is my pseudo tele option. the rest is fluff. All very good points. I may have to build a washer with label so I know what mode I'm in. AFA performing... I just record a lot. never play out any more. I very much appreciate your thoughtful comments. SuperstratWireUp.pdf
  13. Stratocaster build

    what a nice figure you have... I mean your wood... err... very nice guitar!
  14. last guitar built

    wow, just wow. very nice - full photo would be nice too.
  15. seems like a lot of work... but a solution is a solution. will do some searchin'. thanks
  16. i have no planer and no jointer and not even a table saw. Just a router and some other stuff. I do have experience cutting two pieces of solid surface to match using the front/back side of a router bit. I've heard of others using that method to join two halves of a guitar body. I'm going to go visit some local lumber yards but wanted to ask: what is the liklihood of finding wood that has been planed well? Is this a recipe for disaster? Should I just buy a body blank? I'm confident I can make a joint that will work, but my whole plan would be caput if after that I was working on a surface that was less than flat.
  17. First Build, so many lessons learned

    very inspiring when I see some of these threads. I admire your hand drawn layout. You got nuts the size of cantelope to take on that as your first project! that said you have a planer which means this is obviously not your first rodeo. Good on ya. Looks really great. I've got a lot of experience using a router in my younger days and have routed pickups and such... seeing 'first time' builds like this is encouraging. I think I am going to do one... but a lot more conservative - just a body(thank you for your part in the inspiration).
  18. I went looking for these at home depot and although it says they had some in stock, I was unable to find them. So then I went to ace (god I love ace) and found similar. #4 4-40 threaded inserts. This type has flat head screwdriver grooves at the top and threads into the body as opposed to expanding. I believe they were $.60 ea and the #4 1" brass screws I bought were $.33 ea. Just wanted to let those in need know.
  19. Number of questions - new "parts build"

    thank you gentlemen. I will def update on how things go. i hear ya skyjerk. spacing on this trem has a little forgiveness due to the second post riding on a wide blade, but the two studs not being parallel - yeah, could cause binding. that'll be the biggest thing to look out for. trying to get my mind around some sort of jig that would lock into the trem cavity and allow the body to slid along a parallel plane. anywho, thank you both, and everyone for all the comments. great community!
  20. Hello all. New here... my first impression of this site was literally thinking to myself "well winning build of the month here is on a whole-nutha-level." Some really outstanding works of art here. Anywho, I'm building a new guitar - just building it from parts. Hope it's ok to post re that. I've got a flamed maple body to start and have 3 questions: 1) I've got to drill stud holes for a babicz 2 pt trem. I have no drill press. I would need a 14" and just not willing to spend more on a drill press than the body! $120 for local guitar builder to do it so... (not doing that) talk me out of it or encourage me on! Have a cheap drill guide and clamps - it worked fine for 6pt trem... neck mount holes, etc. advice? as an alternative I do have a plunge router but I don't have confidence that I could do any better with that. 2) was thinking all natural for this body. below pic is after damp cloth. I've done true oil plus laquer before but true oil gets yellow... if I go nat I'd like it to be as "white" as possible but still show the grain. advice? Is this body a good candidate for that finish? 3) need to do a 5 way slot. Pretty confident I know how but would be silly not to consider input. I have a dremel bit that is approx 2.5mm. It's a hair too big but it could work. other ideas? drill holes and use a coping saw? other ideas on what you would do with this body? thanks in advance for any comments/advice.
  21. Number of questions - new "parts build"

    handen't realized the site might actually tell me exactly what bit to use - good call. they did. still good info factoring in the hardness of the wood. body is maple/alder so I guess that's medium hard. today I realized that we actually have a drill press at work - right under my nose! Apparently I need to get out of my office more. I'll have to run it up the chain of command, as I am but a lowly code monkey, but I think I'm all set. thanks again for all the advice!
  22. Number of questions - new "parts build"

    prostheta - many ways to skin a cat. i think given my understanding of my skills, dremel is going to be best for me. I have the router base and will use a board as a fence. I think the skill and tools to clean up a hole are a hair out of reach for me at the moment. I will take your advice on shopping around for an HSS set. love your analogy and pun! at risk of hogging the forum 'bump pole position" on this topic... can you please comment regarding bit size for these studs? I assume the bit size should be a hair smaller than the stud itself... but how much smaller? stud is .389 so what is your gut on the bit I should use .375, .354 or .39? my guess is .375.
  23. just thought I'd share something in case someone can use it... This is a very nice boost, small footprint, that can be mounted in a guitar. the pcb is designed to mount on an alpha (pcb lugs) 100k push pull pot (you could mount it on a 2PDT + pot) that is easily aquired on the net(Fee Bay). NOTE: Since the orig circuit calls for a 5K rev log pot (impossible to find as a push pull) the layout shows a 4.7k resistor from lug 3 to lug 2 on the pot to bring its' value down to 4.4k. This makes the pot feel a bit more touchy than the original but I found it acceptible. Note that the pot will 'KRACKLE' when you turn it but that's "OK"! also note that the .1 uf cap will sit between the push/pull part and the pot - on the board - I used a box cap and I don't think I even needed to bend it over to make it fit - your results may vary. Hope you can find this usefull! mlv_sho_push_pull.pdf
  24. Number of questions - new "parts build"

    oh, yeah, forgot to say thanks regarding the 5 way switch. good advice.
  25. Number of questions - new "parts build"

    first off - you guys are great. I'm really appreciating all the thought to my questions. side note: skyjerk - sorry for referring to you as working stiff - thought that was the name area! (new here) prostheta - got it... thanks for the explanation. I'm sold on the bit you and andyjr1515 recommended. stew mac sells those and I've actually got to get a few odds and ends there anyway so... the only question is: looks like the stud size for babicz is .389 ... 3/8 aka .375 or 9mm aka .354 or 10mm aka .39? reminds me - need to find a nice metric set of metal bits for my pedal building obsession! got a set of skill that are pretty nice for aluminum and have lasted a long time despite my lack of use of oil... but 80% of elec components are metric! http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Drill_Bits/Brad_Point_Drill_Bit_Sets.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2018-01-gp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzK6Hl7z72AIVgWh-Ch2FpAxnEAQYBSABEgJyDfD_BwE afa nice place to store bits - every bit my grandfather owned was embedded in a piece of wood when not in use. I follow that tradition. Still, $25 at stew mac - I might as well buy the set. thank you both again!