mistermikev

well it's official. I'm no carver... but seeing this I thought it looked a lot like other 3d printed things I've seen with the carving going so deep... and seemingly having layers underneath layers. If that is even possible via regular carving tools... man it'd be a colossal effort! does look an awful lot like wood - enough so to have a number of respectable luthiers "unsure" anyway (that means y'all and myself included allbiet arguably less respectable) thank you for ending the mystery!

for the record... this is 3d printed wood filament (apparently it's a thing):

i saw this on facebook... and it was my understanding that this was 3d printed... which is confusing cause it sure looks like wood. I know the guy was saying his brother used to carve these... maybe I misunderstood. that is a rediculous amount of details... but if anyone could pull it off... it'd be @ScottR !!

hehe, made ya look!

pretty cool to have access to a laser and what appears to be a very powerful one.

"little soft" - must.... resist... urge... to... quote... steve... correl..... that's... what.... she......... (head explodes) not sure what variety of cedar my acoustic is (western red) but the top on has remained in pretty good shape... that said I take care of my stuff. the interesting thing is it def has a distinct sound to it. lots of midrange... cedar comes in so many beautiful shades... I like the natural streaks in that body. my acoustic has that typical cedar 'olive' look to it. anywho... putting cedar solidbody on my bucketlist! Looking fwd to seeing your new cedar creation.

oh, I wasn't commenting on that... YOU said "close enough" in your comments... so was just reacting to what you said. You can never tell via a picture... unless it's REALLY off... I def didn't see that.

"good enough" he says... so a 200lb non binary gender neutral being walks into a bar and says "I will have relations will all beings in this bar if one of you can guess my weight". from the back of the bar another non binary gender neutral being exclaims "900lbs"! the 200lb non binary gender neutral being says "that's close enough". I think that might be a non offensive version of that humor... but I could be wrong. well... progress is progress.... and you've made more progress than me this week (and the previous 5 or 6) so bravo!

so... nice piece of ash, I like the neck mounting arrangement (been meaning to try that), taking away from this thread - metal polish... can't argue with results. are you polishing by hand (sorry if you said, didn't catch that)?

very handsome tele. nice work. I can smell that guitar all the way over here in my imagination! as a side note... i have a cedar top acoustic that is about 24 yo now... the world needs more cedar guitars imo.

on the one hand... I feel like it's always a bad idea to try to "clean" an older instrument... no matter how old. on the other... as a player, if I like a guitar I want it to play like I like. afa I can tell... "the strat"'s go for 2-9k and anything beyond just cleaning the neck is going to drop it's re-sale. add to this... if that is nitro... it can be highly reactive and I would def do some research if you are going to use anything beyond a damp rag. as a point of illustration... I had to refinish one of my nitro based guitars a while back... I took acetone to it and literally wiped the finish off... down to bare wood. easiest strip job you could ever do. what I see there in the picture is ageing of bare wood where the finish has worn off. you aren't going to get rid of that by cleaning. It's going to remain black... very much like ebonized wood... it's not on the surface - it's in the top layer of wood. the transition between the finish and bare wood likely doesn't "feel" great... but any sanding it is going to make really obvious impact. any cleaning it risks cleaning solution getting into the poors and again, making an obvious visual impact. the fact that it's chipped like that and the wood is exposed... means it is more than likely nitro. afa sealing that wood... all the things that would re-seal it well are going to ruin the value even if done professionally. again... I would gently clean this and keep as is... or measure and buy a "player" neck to put on while keeping the original "as is". just one aholes o.

here's my short list of where I think you could look: jlcraftwood is a user on evilbay... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=314846027349&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197&_ssn=jlcraftwood woodtoworks.com/en-us kimballhardwoods.com/ curlymaple.com curlymaplewood.com hearnehardwoods.com etsy.com/shop/Downhomewoods etsy.com/shop/ElwoodMusic gilmerwood.com exoticwoodzone.com

Right on, wasn't sure if you saw that. with a thinner tenon... that upper edge of the neck might look a bit more clean too as the joint in theory is a bit more hidden. that said, i'm sure it'd be fine.

i think that tenon is plenty long... if you look at an sg for instance... or a rick 4001, it is actually surprising how little is needed. seems like the reasoning for the tenon @Bizman62 is that he's intending to cover w pick guard... ie no top on this guitar. (pls correct me if I'm wrong) sort of a lp jr thing.

thank you sir!!

thank you, means the world to me coming from such an accomplished bass builder yourself.

well that's nice to hear even if it isn't true. yourself included, I'm just honored to be among so many builds I've admired!

well I see a few issues but I suppose nothing is impossible. probably the biggest issue is going to be scale length. a guitar kit is going to be somewhere in the 24.75 to 25.5 range and typical bass is 34 or more. so you could slap a bass neck on a guitar body... but this would change where the bridge should be so if it's drilled already... might not be able. you could just put bass strings on a guitar but a 25" scale bass is pretty small and as mentioned tension could be a real issue. the second big problem is going to be strength. bass strings put a lot more tension on a body than guitar. some 335 designs have a center block... so shouldn't be an issue... but some are full hollow... and I don't see that working at all. Have not built a 335 bass, nor looked at one... but I imagine if it's full hollow you'd need a lot more bracing. those would be my biggest concerns.

ty. I think @Andyjr1515 ? maybe mentioned it to me... that I should submit... and at the time I was a bit embarrassed that I had submitted a couple weeks before and never heard anything... so assumed I lost. Then out of the blue I got an email. very nice surprise.

well if that's the worst thing that happens to ya this life... u r probably in good shape! somedays u r the windshield... and other days the bug. finish crying and get back to chipping wood. 9/10 folks aren't going to notice when it's done anyway. the burl is looking very nice.

that's a sharp sort of 'two tone' you got going on there on the fretboard. i like what you did visa vi yin yang on the inlay too. good on ya.

where to start - well we all have been there. analysis paralysis... I still get it all the time but I find if I just put one foot in front of the other and start going in a direction... I'll immediately get a better sense of what I need to do! for me... building always starts with design. Even if it's as simple as taking pictures of exhisting guitars and chopping them up into "my version"... it's good to have some sort of plan. for a dc body, altho I've never built one... I am keenly aware of the complications where the neck meets the body. Those necks are typically at an 1.5-4.5degree angle to give enough height at the saddles to fit a tom under. doing a neck through is sort of going to complicate... or simplify things depending on how you look at it. the center stock is going to have to be pretty thick to cut out a body and then an angled neck... if you get my drift. so I would start there... you need to know what scale length you are doing (24.75 or 24.625 is pretty typical for a dc)... and what the saddle height is going to be at the intonation line. I would start by making a sideview drawing. doesn't have to be complex... just a 1/4" rectangle to illustrate the fretboard (maybe start out using fret2dfind to make a fretboard with your nut and saddle string widths... and given 24 frets let that dictate the length of your fretboard). make some little squares to sit on top of that and represent frets - at the height of the fret wire you intend to use. then draw a line to sit on top of those frets and run parallel to the fretboard... and make it the length of your intended scale length. then maybe dig up a dc guitar plan (there are lots of them on the net) and measure the body length... now draw a rectangle to represent your side view of your body... with your intended thickness. now draw a rectangle to represent your saddle height. take the body and saddle and use a graphics program to rotate them to 1, 2, 3, and maybe 4 degrees... until the bridge/saddle fit under the string. gibson headstock with a straight string pull... well the only one of those I am aware of is the flying v! it's not really possible to have the typical mustache headstock and still maintain straight pull. you could modify it... but it has to get thinner towards the top. I do however like that you started off trying to achieve the impossible!! (gibby headstock w straight string pull) hope there is something above you can use!!

nope... WRONG. it's less filling... I don't care if it tastes great. (good to see you AD)

right on, I appreciate the answers as always. I'll stop derailing the thread now lol! thank you thank you.