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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. afa profile... for me, there really isn't a perfect fret size/radius/neck profile... etc. I have all sorts in my collection and like each for it's difference. some guys zero in on what they like and that's what they like. Nothin' wrong with that... I just like them all! I get what yer saying tho - probably few mass produced guitars have the kind of quality you see in the typical build on this forum, let alone yours.
  2. I haven't bought a guitar since I started building but I've come close a few times. I've bought tons of pedals since I started building them years back. Even ones' I build. Guess I'm sort of a gear whore but why not? Whatever floats yer boat. Building has def changed what I would buy but it hasn't dampened my gear lust and one guy can only build so many!
  3. I have and would buy expensive guitars... but also build them (why can't it be both?)
  4. ah... your post had a thumbs up so... I thought THAT was the two letters. again, I imagine he's like waiting for you to tell him you're gonna pay him with a money order then OOOPS my boss made it out for 2k, but just cash it and give me back 1555 and keep the difference... you know. I imagine shipping 8/4 10" x 4' would be pretty spensive? probably well over the price of the wood no?
  5. right on... so I assume that was "OK"? I don't know what the question was but I assume you asked about if he'd ship to the uk? I'm guessing anyone who contacts him that is not locally - he's going to think it's a scam... that's what I would think anyway... so he probably is going to be a bit offputting at first.
  6. looked around a bit... pretty cheap on craigslist. I would assume it's a lot like a more aggressive da sander. sm spinning wheel but different grip and more torque. I would imagine the MOST efficient way to carve without CNC is a duplicator... but I smell what yer steppin' in.
  7. that is surprisingly light. I don't know what those kg things are, but I'd probably go for that model as as 2 < 4. Also, which weighs more... a pound of kg or a pound of lb? also, when you go to your grinder... do you oil up the beck first or after? I have a pretty light belt sander (6lbs ish) but it's the weight plus the pull of it that kills me. Lot better than those porter cable monsters but still I can only use that thing for about 10 mins. I'm sure I could manage w the grinder should it come to that, and will keep it in mind for when I get to that point, so thanks for the info.
  8. those angle grinders look heavy and my experience with belt sanders is: my back can't take much of that. Second it removes a lot of material in a way that is not bound to a form. Seems like it would be some work to wrangle it into symmetry. I could see setting up a router jig similar to my radius top jig, that would have the lp carve profile instead of radius, and smaller at one end. This could make short work of smoothing the north/south pattern. Who knows, could always fall back to using an angle grinder... but I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to explore possible alternatives. If at all possible I'd like to try to substitute careful consideration for brute force.
  9. sure, there are lots of folks who have done the angle grinder, and yes I think I did see a gentleman route everything by hand. Both fine approaches. That said... you have to pick the approach that is right for you. For me, my hammer is the router. I think it could have gone a lot easier with more template layers... and if I had a giant compressor I would love to have a dynabrade air sander with the right pad/paper. Furthermore the scraper set I got is already getting worn down so perhaps I need to learn about burnishing or find a set made out of better metal.
  10. I thought what I said was funny... but you two had me in stitches.
  11. that'd probably make short work of it! (or firewood)
  12. nice job not letting the blue get too dark. not an easy feat! that brown really pairs well with it. nice work.
  13. right on, well I don't want to message him yet as there is zero chance of me getting down that way till saturday (traffic makes a 1 hour drive = 3 hours) but later in the week I'll probe him for some more info on what he thinks it is, how thick it actually is, how recent it was cut, etc. right on... well my recent experience trying to carve a maple top was really more physical effort than I'm willing to do very often (yes I'm that lazy) but I have an idea on how to setup a jig to do the majority of a les paul carve via router... then again not sure I want to be running a router on something that is hard as a rock! from what I gathered, that ironwood gets it's name from the fact that it is "hard as iron"... which doesn't sound like fun! but oh that color... might be worth it.
  14. so... is it heavy like "you wouldn't want to build a body from it" or heavy like "you wouldn't even want to use it for a top"?
  15. don't mind at all. it's on facebook marketplace... just a guy selling locally. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/988511004881180/?surface=product_details if you reach out to him lmk. I was thinking I might shoot a line closer to the weekend as he appears to be about an hour south of me. you can see the one piece that is turned sideways (under the oil) is what appears to be 2" thick(ish). I don't know if all are. I wondered about mexi cocobolo as it does look like some I've seen, but admittedly that 'desert' ironwood looks spot on! good call. edit: "impossible to work with hand tools" - hmm... sounds hard/heavy! man it is beautiful stuff tho.
  16. i think yer right with the rounded = looks thicker. looks nice.
  17. when you oil beck... it's best to have him sing "loser". also good to be drinking becks. fretboards are looking great. doing some slotting myself right now... I hate this part. I like it when it's right... but hate the work and constant fear of slip/scratch. putting a pretty large rollover on my current and am really liking the feel but prefer the look of bound neck. might have to try the thicker wood binding like you do to get the best of both worlds. anywho, be careful... beck might take a liking to you if you oil him too much!
  18. dang, that's crazy that WD sold it (note to self... avoid WD). Like you... all the gotoh gear I've bought has been in gotoh packaging... in fact that is exactly what I look for on ebay auctions now because I've seen so many fakes. Usually deal with philedelphia luthier. If I don't see gotoh packaging - avoid. That said... I have bought some gotoh from allparts that came in allparts packaging... but it's legit gotoh so... who knows. I've recently found a place that has great prices on gotoh - japarts, and they are international. The shipping is a bit more for me ($30 for two sets of tuners, probably less for you) and wait time isn't great... but they have everything. fyi.
  19. very much appreciate the response/wisdom. Not sure the oil can is included but I can ask (jk). This was apparently "just cut" and the pieces are 2-3" thick. So at a minimum it's something I'd have to store for a year or more. I was thinking that one block would make a pretty cool body, and what lit my fire was the word "rosewood". I wondered what sort of 'rosewood' grew in az. I went on the wood database and tried to look for a combo of those two terms but no such luck. As you mentioned, cottonwood is a very light colored wood so??? looking at it now, specifically the piece right under the oil... look how half way down the color changes? to a plain tan? I like the idea of a build in the future using something interesting and locally sourced... but perhaps this isn't it. As you pointed out there is a lot of grain going a lot of directions so perhaps a lot of potential for splitting as this dries.
  20. there is a local guy who advertised as 'cottonwood/rosewood'... certainly is beautiful. I believe he's asking $45 each. I need more wood like I need flesh eating disease but wanted to ask: would this be dumb to pass up? Probably not is my guess... school me.
  21. where did you get your Gotoh? I used the Gotoh vs100 for my sweetspot blue... and it was solid top to bottom... but there are some really shady dealers on ebay passing off stuff as gotoh that is def counterfit. Had to wade through a sea of them to get to stuff I knew was legit. that said... wilkinson does seem to be solid stuff. hard to go wrong.
  22. earlier today I saw a meme that said "woodworking is 33% planning, 33% execution, and 33% changing your plan to cover up the mistake you just made". lord is that true for me. anywho... I think it'll look fine but if it bothers you, you could put a cool square insert of some exotic wood in there around the entire pickup - call it a natural pickup ring. you could put binding around the inside of the pickup cavity (been wanting to try this myself). the important thing is to realize - it's never as bad as it seems (unless it's me... then it's way worse!) ooh, just thought of another one... do up some waterslide with a decorative surround around the pickup.
  23. funny, you addressed my question before I asked it... hehe. "Nevermind the logistics... will the height screws scratch it?" Seems like it would def be an improvement on the acoustasonic design in that the intonation/string-height will be adjustable... good call.
  24. "I'm an IT guy for my day job " - I'm sorry to hear that... we've reached our quota on IT guys in here. pretty sure everyone that freq this website is in IT/Dev! hehe. afa narrow... I guess it all depends on how close it is. You could do a 1.1 piece... just use a small edge piece glue on. Might be a nice option. Seems like you are on the right track and in good hands with all the input above so... you got her otter.
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