mistermikev

"My whole gtr is made of old leaf! Fancy!"

old leaf? I'm assuming gold leaf... did you type that with your pinky extended?

love that top... so much attitude.... it's like "I'm gonna be burl... on second thought I'm gonna be flamed maple... but I'm feeling a little spalty today... nah, I'm gonna be burled maple". love it. 7 distinct types of nice in that build. is that glitter inlay? lovely. carbon fiber neck? love it.

and I'm told the problem is even worse with gnome women... they are notorious shoppers/spenders. always gotta have fancy hair and the best of the best... so high maintenance!!

well... if it's anything like my wife... must of set you back nice carved top... or at least a new fancy set of tuning machines (yes, that how I measure money now!).

bringing it back on topic in 5... 4... 3... so... i think that's the first I've seen the feathering on the sides of her hair. nice touch. looks like she just came out of the salon.

have often thought of a variation on this: in theory you could achieve the sm effect by planing the neck angle into the back of the body. ie the front of the guitar would remain completely flat... but the back of the guitar would have a slope. the reason it wouldn't be a great option; on a les paul for example, is because of the effect that putting the pickups "back in the body" would have on the sound, if that makes any sense. also folks like the fact that strings are raised off the body making it less cramped against the face of the body. (EDIT - also you'd have to countersink the bridge) folks do, in fact, cut the angle into the neck. idk anything about the starla... but on a 22/24... all have a slope in the body and that negates any benefit (in terms of ease). the les paul (for example) has a 1/2 degree slope that extends from just in front of the bridge pickup to the end of the neck... so if you have to cut that anyway... might as well make it easy on yourself and cut two slopes into the body front... then simply use that slope to cut the neck pocket.

love the rout btw!

I don't want to litter your thread with too much but when you were talking about neck profile... I'm working on a neck doing the orig evh/axis profile and the odd thing about it to me is how it sort of 'bulges' out around the 12th fret. not a linear/gradual change. Using a number of dif references for profile so I'm sure this is how it is but never noticed playing an axis. My point is eddies odd contribution to neck profiles shouldn't be understated - afaik he pretty much started the whole asym profile thing and that neck, while nothing like a wizard, is easily as comfy despite being much thicker. eddie was a wizard. tanin - yes, the min you said b4 vs after was thinking about the lines it would create doing it after. my vote is for b4 but I know nothing.

well treated to a prostheta build... looking fwd to it. everyone thinks about building an evh at some point I assume... and I've def thought about it. for me... the single pickup baretta variation he used on panama video is my fav... but not sure I could build one w/o adding a neck pickup and ruining it! the mm evh being a close second for me. the frankenstrat, the yellow/black strat, all have a place in my heart. the shark prob is the pinnacle of tone guitar... but lets face it - no one wants to build that monstrosity! I suspect there will be a lot of cool things to see in your build and I will follow along while drooling.

sounds about right... I think on a bridge like that square would be better... plus if you move one side fwd a bit you've just changed your ctr. I think your post holes will not be on the intonnation line but further back. the way I'd determine sqr would be to put a good straight edge on each side of the fretboard and draw a line. use ruler from center of 12th fret and measure back half scale length and make a mark. do this for both sides of the fretboard then connect the dots with a line. then measure bridge width and make marks along that horizontal (either side of the bridge) to position your bridge ctr. then lay the bridge down and mark the edge of the post hole area. then measure from that mark fwd half the distance of your post diameter where the post interfaces with the bridge. idk if any of that makes sense... so my parting advice would be to maybe hope to get a few answers to your question and between the few perhaps we'll get to the church on time!! lol.

nah, I think you were clear... that's on me... I'm just not good with reading... and letters... or numbers... concepts are a challenge for me... hehe!

the thing that stands out to me in your post is .08mm... that's pretty low no? I mean, I like low action myself... and don't bother to measure ever... but I thought 1-1.5mm is good - def not high. I'm pretty sure my jem is in that range... and it plays great. If you manhandle that guitar it will buzz but it's not fret buzz - it's string rattle. If you play soft/fast - no buzz. so if you are getting 2mm at the nut/24th and .08mm at the 13th... sounds like the issue is too much relief. I would think relaxing the bow and doing some fall off at the 17-24 would allow the string some room to vibrate w/o hitting the frets. perhaps I'm misunderstanding something. sorry, saw my mistake - "when fretted .08mm"

nice colors (agreed) the fretboard, the blue, the orange... nice work.

well did a test run... had some issues due to my bending the laws of the software I'm using. has a number of 'training wheels' setup to prevent you from cutting too deep or making things beyond your stock dimensions... and this did not suit my plans of not doubling my work as I tried to do two necks in one project. they have several things in common and wanted to keep them together at least until I worked out the bugs... so had to separate them. got that done and started another test. flat spot is due to initial test... but all in all not bad. profile looks good and didn't break through the truss cavity or anything. the headstock transition also went a bit off as the first pass was screwy... but the lowest part of it is my intended run and I can see it will work fine. might touch that up a bit and bring it another 1/2 inch towards the headstock... we'll see. my engraving went quite wrong.. can't even read it... was using a 20deg engrave tip... my guess is the detail is just too fine. will have to redo that.

looks right to me... (no expert).

right on. not sure if you got my reference above... but skate or die was catchphrase from the 80's game "720" which was a skateboard came... and had an unusual rotating joystick. obviously if you didn't play this one game... that controller wouldn't make sense... but if I ever build one... gonna have to figure that out!! 99% of games would be handled via 1 joystick and two buttons for me.

There is only one thing a true child of the 80's would say to something like that... and that is "SKATE OR DIE"!!! looks pretty cool so far bud.

interesting idea. the issue I'd see with these would be cutting a center hole perfectly... as if it's not perfect the knob is going to wobble - perhaps you've worked that out. if one had ebony thick enough... and a drill press... pretty easy to make a knob using a 1/4" bit followed by a 3/4" plug cutter - I've done it like this. that said... https://www.lmii.com/knobs/2050-electric-knob-ebony-for-14-shaft.html $3.64 ea and all the work is done for you. rosewood, tigerwood, ebony and boxwood.

so... trials and tribulations of a sawdust jockey... I'm at the point where I'm ready to start cutting a neck... but am aware that once I start that i'll want to do my headstock inlay so that I don't have to mount/re-mount the piece... so in order to do that... I have to have my headstock overlay ready. have several pieces thicknessed to about 1/16". started to use water/heat and it quickly became apparent that wasn't going to work this time, as these are bookmatched. Realized this as my bookmatch started coming apart. so... here's a problem... here's a solution... I decided what i'd do is cut my overlay thinner... and I milled a couple pieces down to somewhere between 1/32nd and 1/16th thick. still too thick to make the radius w/o some help... so then I thought i'd build a form... something to get me pressure in the right places. I built a mirrow of my headstock transition radius out of one piece of wood - but 1/16th bigger to compensate for the piece of wood. then I built a piece that would act as my actual radius transition. placed the wood between them... and used vinegar to soften the wood. so far working pretty good. in less than 2hrs I've got it bent to the form and no signs of the bookmatch splitting. not quite out of the woods yet... I'm not entirely sure my bookmatch is still on center... as I used the edge to line up my piece... but am now wondering if that edge was off a bit as we seem to have an uneven amount of hang-off on the radius side. can always rebend it now that I know this works. really hoping the small amount of vinegar I brushed on doesn't discolor the wood too... but so far it seems ok.

well... can't say I haven't thought the same about mistakes I've made... always a series of bad choices. that said... there seems to be one bad choice that leads to the reflection and in this case I think it's trying to take off 1/4" x 3/4" in one pass... and with a tiny little baseplate.

hehe, I did click on it... but didn't realize it wasn't just paint/graphic. looked again - I have seen that before just didn't register. there's a spider web one that similar. on that note.... could probably do that with vinyl but yeah... router. palm routers certainly have their uses and can be used safely... like any tool... just see a lot of folks buying them with intent to do full router work and wanted to mention. admittedly - I'm a bit of a worry wart when it comes to safety.

just 2 cents on a router... those palm routers IME are more dangerous that full sized routers especially if you choke them. Since there are no handles... it is very easy to loose control of them, and since they are so small it is easy for the bat to end up eating your hand. They are not nearly as powerful and as such - choking it by taking too big of a bite of wood is very easy. i have one and use it for binding channels and that is honestly as far as I would push one of those. I would say find a full sized router. I've bought several on craigslist ranging from $25-100. there are also some cheap routers out there that you can get for around the sm money. don't mean to rain on your parade... just would hate to see anyone get hurt. all that said - I don't really know what you need a router for... as the gearge lynch is just a paint job. if you can find a guitar similar to that shape... pretty easy to redo the paint. if you want to get into modifying guitars tho... router is a good tool to learn how to use.

right... I'm not good with words.... or concepts... I struggle with spelling... and ideas. I have a detail gun (mini spray gun says 'detail gun' on the package) but haven't used it yet. that green above - would ordinarily not be for me... but you pulled it off well... has a somehow very attractive 50s vibe. bravo.

ok, admittedly... you eclipsed it. very nice. odd coincidence I use an airbrush too. it has so much better control. I've never tried with a detail spray gun but I like the fact that you accomplish the burst in several passes with the airbrush. really nicely done there. i like how there is just a tiny hint of darkness creeping over the edge.