mistermikev

so... here's my cut sheet... and here's my prospective jig so was thinking I might do slots for the attach points of the rail (pictured in dif relavent positions) so I could slide it and then bolt it down. the center "eye" is going to be a knob/handle of some sort... with my other hand going on the knob of the router. I figured I needed to do shallow passes anyway to prevent damage to the finished side of the 5x5 sheet... this should give me enough leverage to maintain control and a tight coupling to the edge of the sheet for the first channel... doh... just saw my first mistake... router bit needs to be 3/4 so it create a 3/4 channel so my spacing is off by 1/4" right now. the plan being to make the first cut vertical from the r side of the sheet to cut the back/baffle/shelf, then ride the 3/4" piece in the 1/2" depth 3/4" width slot and make the 16.25" channel... then repeat, then ride the north factory edge to make a channel 26.5" from the edge, then ride the channel to make a 24.5" channel. then use a jig saw to bust out the pieces and follow again with a pattern bit. anywho, thanks @Bizman62 for encouraging me to not be lazy and do a drawing!

that is a solid idea. will keep it in mind.

hehe, I'm not using the cabinet from the old one... I'm building two new cabs from 5x5 sheets of baltic birch plywood. Just going to make a jig for the router - very similar to a circle cutting jig, but with a perpendicular strip of 3/4 x 3/4 at the edge. will allow me to cut a channel 26.5" away but parallel to the edge of the 5x5 sheet. then I'll ride that strip in the channel I just created, and create another channel 16.5" away from that channel... etc. basically allow me to cut up a 5x5 sheet of plywood into the 'squares' I need to build the speaker boxes. Anywho, I'll shut up now.

thank you for the reply/support! I'm not a paint wizard like you! after thinking this idea over, and watching some other woodworking videos for doing rabbets... my idea has evolved to just a wide board with router mounted at one end, and a strip of 3/4 x 3/4 on the bottom side of the piece at the other. the 3/4 will ride the edge of the 5x5 panel and place my router at 26.5 or 24.5 or 16.5 depending on the cut. not sure that makes it any clearer. appreciate the input. well, the reach needs to be 26.5 at widest... which is quite wide. most of the store bought rabbet guides max out around 12" afa I know... but if your ryobi goes to 26.5 I would be interested to see it. the problem with a marker stick... or just drawing a line and putting a fence on it... it's unlikely to be perfectly parallel as you place the fence. the cab construction I'm doing is going to require very precise parallel sides. the sides will be exactly 3/8 larger on each edge of the baffle, for instance, so they slot into a rabbet cut into all 4 panels. If this isn't perfectly square it's going to cause assembly problems. with a table saw or panel saw this would be trivial... just need the sm parallel precision with a router. actually was thinking a lot about getting a router panel saw setup... but just do not have the room. EDIT: I should say that's a "Dado Joint" for the baffle... as rabbet is only at edge. thank you for the thought - that could certainly work, but planning to place the 5x5 on the garage floor and don't have a 5x5 of scrap, and given I will be kneeling on it... don't want to risk flexing.

would be trivial to do before a radius, but in my case I bought radius/slotted board so... this is how I did it.

congratulations sir!

so... I recently happened into a fEarful 15/15/6/6. VERY nice cab. I want to make it into two 15/6 /1 cabs. so went to my fav local lumber spot and snagged some "figured" 3/4" baltic birch plywood 'clear coated'. so... now... I have no panel saw, no circular saw, no table saw... but I do have a router and I want to make perfectly parallel cuts. so... was thinking of making a simple jig... similar to a circle cutting jig: just mount my router on a 1x8x32 piece of pine, and mount another piece of pine at 90 degrees on the opposite end. that piece will ride the edge of the panel. my one concern is tipping... as holding on to just the router might not be stable at 26" out. so... make a little handle at the 'T' side of things? One hand on router (mounted to pine) and one hand at the edge? just looking for input as usual... in case anyone has a better solution to this scenario, or ideas to improve it. all general comments, questions, concerns appreciated. I am only going to be doing 1/8" rabbet cuts till I get down to depth where I can cut it with a jigsaw then go back with the router and follow the edge for a clean cut.

my kind of rig. I don't mind if my jigs or bench look nice or not (usually don't), but the focus for me is function. they are a tool that does a job. Yours does indeed look nice, but it seems like it was built with doing a job in mind. I like that. @soapbarstrat 's bench is lovely too... because it looks like it's seen a ton of work. Must have been built well.

sort of feels like whack a mole right now! I have certainly been humiliated by a finish job occasionally! afa electronics... I used to have that problem all the time. specifically installing, finding an issue, then working in the guitar with a soldering iron I would always burn the pickguard or the finish or end up scratching something with a wire. I took matters into my own hands and try to get as much wireup as possible done outside the guitar... and even test it b4 install... so not impossible but certainly limited now.

I think at some point I'm going to ease into this sort of thing with a 335 or similar first... "your balls... they are very large balls"

the neverending pro..o...ject. who-o-a wo-o-a wo-o-a... the neverending pro-o-ject... so got my face all sorted... but in the process uglied up my back... so... more nitro... anywho... just wanted to complain.

coming along nicely and I'm jealous... but not jealous enough to go thru trying to build an acoustic... so congrats!

that dr sticker took me back to dri... "beneath the wheel...." thanks for that. that body looks sharp (see what I did there)

right on. I' guess I've had some terrible experiences with mounting these for pickups but I'm guessing that had more to do with the inserts themselves (broke off the phillips thread). the t nut idea is pretty cool... but def comes a bit close to the edge there. def going to spread that stress out quite a bit tho. thanks both for the insight.

I guess the complicated part is... what size. too big and you have issues with splitting out the side of the neck or other splits. too small and they won't be as strong as normal wood screws. 3/8 is probably too big of a hole for standard strat/tele placement huh?

nice to see the details on your tap... have often thought of trying this but have not for a number of reasons but it's one of those things I feel that I should try at some point so... thank you for sharing. guitar is really beautiful... coming along great.

well thank you very much sir! means a lot to me.

thanks biz. well, when I recorded it... it was in 3 or 4 parts... and it was improvised... but when I did the video I just lip sync'd it - there: I admit it... I went all milli vanilli!

there's more where that came from

jk, not rock at all... but it IS a video... so there's that... anywho, just a little ditty I've been goofing off with.. would love your feedback.

either 'sorry' or 'your welcome' that I haven't been visiting as much and am just now catching the final product here on the scroll... man that red... ooh lah lah! Very nicely done sir!

right on. I am storing that away for later. Since the finish had a few 'tiny bubbles' from being roasted at 120 deg in the az sun on accident... and since I never really was all that happy with the burst... I decided to give it another shot. I got a good feeling about this round! this time I did the burst b4 doing a layer of clear and it seems to allow the flame to show thru a bit more... so it was a good experience and learning.

pretty soon? spectacular? no, you are going to see some mediocre necks a long time from now! this is really something I built just for this project but should come in use if I build more multilam basses in the future. also... kind of just wanted to 'do it' for the adventure. I appreciate your input on it biz.

no, they are for counter pressure against two bolts sitting about an inch back from those that are pushing up on the angled board. there are two more at approx center board to keep things from bowing. fwiw I ran it thru it's maiden voyage... worked very well. I am going to add additional lock nuts to the height adjust bolts at end and center just to lock them in better but I didn't have any problems. here's the result: not sure if the seperation there at the end is from the wood 'moving' as it was just cut... or if I had a subtle amount of bow in my jig... but I can clamp it all closed just using my hands so... should be good.

sorry, thought you thought I mean bow as in relief. funny how the same spelling has two pronunciations and meanings... but they really are the same thing - "to bend at the middle". my language is silly.That there is whay they're doing with their words. hehe