Jump to content

Entry for November 2019's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


GOTM Winner
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. if you go look at "led light base" for pedals... sm concept will work. I've done this a number of time (for pedals). Take an led and sand the top of it flat and right up to the contacts. Then use a clear pickguard, put some design/sticker on the back side of it... everywhere but where the led will be glued to it. This will make the light only go out the sides. Leds go thru batteries fast... so you'll want to use the biggest resistor possible - just test it out. with a water clear led you could probably go 12k. also, might want to put in a push/pull switch so you can turn it off. (probably place the led right under the knobs so it doesn't shine right where the led is)
  2. well, I suspect you are right.. if you look at the bridge, it looks like they actually counter sink them a hair too. think it's fair to say they don't at this point. thanks for the reply!
  3. I suspect not given the bridge... but I've seen some pics that make it look like the body might tilt away from the neck... hard to tell if that is just carve or not. Anyone happen to know?
  4. seems like you are in good hands with curtisa so forgive if I'm stealing thunder/butting in... based on your readings sounds like you figured out the wire order. I'd wire in series - it's more typical for a humbucker and you'll get parallel with your singles in pos 4. 1 white(bridge-as it was in orig pic), 2 blue(middle), 3 red(neck).
  5. not saying it won't work at all... but it's a common complaint of combining the two. if it works for ya as is, "it's good". If it doesn't... you can take a look at the link above. cheers
  6. piezo has a high output impredence(1M?), active emgs have a low output impedence(10K?)... I don't know about the sustainer. I can tell you that mixing a passive magnetic with a piezo doesn't work great afa just having independent pots for each. I suspect you'll have similar issues with active, so you may want to do a little experimentation/research on that. Haven't tried it myself.
  7. not sure volume controls are going to work for you there. I suspect you will find that depending on the position... 1 of the 3 will always dominate to the point where the other two won't really be heard. May or may not be the case since all 3 are in theory going to be buffered... might plan for some experimentation at least with the pot values. worst case scenario you can build a simple blend like the return here: http://www.runoffgroove.com/splitter-blend.html
  8. duh, didn't think of that... you did do a nice job of matching it. good trick.
  9. hadn't noticed... a nice detail with the fretboard overlapping the nut. might have to steal that one but seems like it'd be a lot of work. nice job. splits... that's one I'd have to walk away for a moment on. I think you could likely rub glue into it before removing the studs and be ok. sux tho... confident you'll recover well.
  10. unclear if you are doing a build from scratch or from parts... so forgive if my advice strays. Sounds like an awful lot of battery usage potential there so you may want to consider how many 9v you are going to have as I suspect a single 9v would be drained in an hour. another hurdle I see is how all 3 devices will go to one jack. totally possible, but would require a mixer of some sort. not sure if you have this covered? you could stain the fretboard, IME at most I put a light tru oil coat on... cause I don't like it to be sticky. 25lb lead weight? don't want to discourage experimentation but a 8lb guitar is too much for me so... oof. I'm guessing many will tell you this isn't going to make a difference at all... wouldn't be surprised either way myself. I would suggest that you do some videos, trying to mitigate any differences other than the weight... and do a blind test here. extra points for mesuring sustain in seconds in a daw.
  11. fantastic build. thanks for sharing here as this thread will be a great resource for folks traveling this route. nice work. looks like it will be a beauty build.
  12. will have to experiment with that next time i do that but in the case I had issues with it it was an ebony fretboard with maple dots... and it required finish sanding. what I ended up doing is just using compressed air freq. still... that ebony dust penetrates quite well. some good points there. something I hadn't considered (strips going out of square when planed). I will use my router sled to plane it and will take care to ensure I setup the blank with the strips parallel when I do that. thanks for that. I hear ya on the stability. Not something I'd want to do on every neck just because I love the look of a single piece and it's a lot more work... but for bass/baritone neck... def worth it.
  13. He he not typing speaking into my phone! That's why there's so many words spelled correctly! I guess I'm going to 86 the laminate idea but you make a good point especially if you're dealing with ebony!
  14. Now that I think of it oh, both the next are going to be dyed one red Les Paul and one black so I'm not sure laminate in between the pieces is going to make much of a difference. Just thinking out loud
  15. I would think the fact that they're laminated at all would mitigate any Boeing of course that is contingent on the bow being fairly small to begin with. I don't know how straight the green is on my wenge, the centerpiece, going to have to look at that this weekend.
  16. Right on some good info there. I don't have a lot of extra material so I'm thinking a decent nail would be a nice substitute for dowels. Going to have to find some veneer somewhere cuz I don't have much stock on that and that would be a nice touch.
  17. Some great advice here too, yes I think I will try to use a nail at either end of the glue up to mitigate slippage. Thank you for chiming in!
  18. Right on BisMan, that's a good tip I've seen it myself but forgot about it thank you for reminding me!
  19. so for my "TeLes" and perhaps my other tele, I'm thinking I might try making it out of a laminate of some flamed maple and wenge. So far, what I know is that I might want to alternate the end grain. I have some (semi-rough) flamed maple that's 7/8" and some wenge that is finished 4s that is 3/4"... two pieces of flamed maple and one center strip of wenge should get me close enough to 2 3/16" if I'm careful... cutting too close? In terms of prep... how important is perfectly flat here? IE - since you are going to clamp it up... how concerned are you about bow (obviously a big bow would be problems but what about 1/16" bow)? I would normally use my router plane to get a flat fretboard surface... but running this on the two flamed pieces would be a lot of work (plus sanding out the ridges) and am thinking of just running it through my planer a few times. Clearly one has to watch out for obvious defects in the wood (don't want any voids) but other than that... what are the pitfalls of doing a lam neck?
  20. I guess we both come away with something then.
  21. not really nitpicky... just want to know it so I can plan for it. I guess the top on a less paul is usually an arc due to the carve - so at the end of the day I'm likely going to have to sand the bridge ring to match that arc anyway... At the end of the day this thread was really just me working it out. Sometimes committing to writing it down flushes out the understanding... this was one of those times for me. I do appreciate you playing along tho!
  22. hehe, yeah, didn't spend a lot of time making it pretty... just trying to see where things will lie. right... the neck pickup ring s/b no angle... I don't know why they put one on. If you are planing the body at the same angle you plane the neck... it should be parallel (doesn't everyone use the sm angle there?) so I have no idea why they would put an angle on that. The bridge... I guess they go 6.75degrees as it should never be more than that.. and you just have to sand it down... but yeah, if you do a 4 degree pitch it needs to be at 4 degrees in theory... I guess since it's just a few degrees it doesn't matter that much, but I have seen some cheap les paul copies where it isn't angled... and we don't want that! thanks for the reply biz
  • Create New...