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mistermikev

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Posts posted by mistermikev


  1. it would boil down to how much clearance above the body there is.  iow... a floyd needs to be recessed on a strat style neck whereas on a gibson style it would likely be able to float above the body as the strings are much higher off the body at the intonnation line.  has almost nothing to do with just being able to go up/down, but more to do with string height at the body. 

    for example, I have a hamer steve stevens that is not recessed, the trem goes up and down... but it is a set neck with an angle.

    i suggest you go look at the design docs for your trem and pay close attention to the height that the string goes over the saddle, and where that is going to put the rest of the trem on your guitar.


  2. 5 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

    That makes sense. For the same reason the blocks on car tyres aren't of the same size as the similarity would cause vibration which would make an annoying noise (harmonic resonance) and prolongued even fatigue the metal. Despite their marketing speech sounds like that of a snake oil vendor the same technology has been proved viable in a totally different genre. Interdisciplinarity at its best!

       

    glad it wasn't just me (snake oil) - I was really kind of put off by that advert... but have to admit the proof is there in the puddin'.  It literally went thru 2" of figured maple like it was cutting butter.  Eerie how quiet it was compared to what it would be with my other half inch blades.  and a very thin cut which isn't something I was after, but with a smaller (14") bandsaw being able to apply more tension to the blade is important (I'm told).


  3. 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Is that the same as a skip tooth blade? varying height and spacing of blades I think, Those are what I get from Axminster, they're supposedly much better at getting the dust out of the cut and produce a cleaner cut with less burning, 

    It's a combination table saw, 250mm planer, thicknesser, spindle moulder (I think you cats call that a shaper) and extractor, not that I ever use a spindle moulder. Each part has it's own dedicated motor so it's pretty much as beastly as you can get on single phase power. My Dad and I went halves on it because he want's a spindle moulder and we've set it up in his workshop as I don't have the room so it's a win win for me. It's got a decent cross cut sled so I'm hoping if I get the right blade, I'll be able to cut fret slots on it. 

    I figured it currently takes me about an hour or so to cut fret slots by hand, well I'll be able to take my blanks over to my folks, do all my jointing and fret slotting, have a coffee and still be home by the time I'd have cut them by hand :P 

    sledge-o-matic-7000 there! 

    afa blade... "Its outstanding performance is due to its 3-4 tpi variable tooth pitch design, in which uneven spacing between the teeth nearly eliminates vibration during a cut. The Wood Slicer's tooth pattern damps harmonic resonance extremely effectively; the result is superlatively smooth cuts and much, much quieter operation than ordinary bandsaw blades."

    admittedly sounds like a lot of 'sizzle' but they get really good reviews at lumberjocks so I figured it'd be worth a shot... and as it turns out, indeed it does limit vibration a lot.


  4. 2 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

    I'm not great with the bandsaw in general and resawing is no exception. I've only got a 10" bandsaw anyway so I never resaw anything taller than a 3" neck blank with it. A 1/2" over a 1/4" does make a significant difference although I expect a lot of it is down to switching over to a brand new sharp blade and fact that you've just recalibrated the saw with a blade changover probably has something to do with it too.

    Today I'm having a beastly new machine delivered so I'm looking forward to cutting neck lams on a table saw instead of my little band saw :D 

    bestcombi2000.thumb.jpeg.799640793b5b043ba11afdbeb57ecbe6.jpeg

    well, yes, always setting up the bandsaw makes a dif... and new blade too... but there is something different going on with this blade.  I don't want to sound like an advertisement... but the varied tooth spacing and kerf really do result in less vibration.  I don't know how long it will maintain it... but it is seriously smooth.  nothing like when I put a brand new timberwolf on.  The timberwolf cut well... and you could feed it really fast... but it wasn't smooth like this.

     

    tablesaw... noice.  I have come so close to buying a table saw on so many occasions... really is the most versatile tool one could have.  I always pull back at the last moment because I remind myself it is also the most dangerous... I'm holding out for a sawstop!  that looks pretty heavy duty and the color scheme is bang on!  (go pack go)


  5. 12 hours ago, komodo said:

    Thanks @mistermikev

    While this is certainly elaborate and easily the largest thing I'll ever do - it is something anyone could do. Inlay is not inherently difficult. Imagine laying tile in your house, it's kinda the same. There are some considerations and challenges with this one, and it is a time suck. But, we are doing this for fun? For the time suck? This particular inlay is no different than many typical tree-of-life type inlays, and as a matter of fact it's easier as I have many long and large pieces. It's the little ones that are a bitch. All the stuff around Cthulhus head is really a PITA, but once out of there, it's not bad at all.

    If you want to see real inlay artistry, look to Larry Robinson or similar and see what people do with a mix of materials or when they go for realism. Stunning stuff.


    https://robinsoninlays.com/

    i think you can give yourself a whole lot more credit than that.  yeah, it's the little stuff that would def be a killer for me. 

    wow, that larry robinson... that stuff is craZ!  thanks for pointing me to that.


  6. 7 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

    Never thought of that! Clever!

    Then again, as has been discussed elsewhere, it makes a whole lot of difference if the polepieces are magnets or just iron magnetized from the bottom. A magnet on top would be similar to the magnetic polepieces so it would be comparing apples to oranges.

    But I can try to make a mock up magnetic measuring tool of a feeler gauge and a block to see if the pole screws suck a plate of steel from the same distance. Thanks for freeing my mind!

    well for the record I just meant temporarily.  if you find it solves the problem you'd want to take it out and run it through some rare earth magnets to restore magnetism. 

    "free you mind... and the rest will follow" hehe...

    also, I have some big magnets that I have used to change magnetism on single coils... man those things can pinch.  I used to keep a number of them around but one time they were separated and got attracted and it actually connected so hard it chipped one of them and shrapnel went flying.  can be seriously dangerous!  I've since been very careful when having them out and making sure to return them all safely!


  7. even watching you cut mop makes me uncomfortable.  For me, that'd just be like eating rice with 3 foot chopsticks.  the other day a buddy of mine sent me a link to a 8k prs with some elab inlay... I sent him back a shot of your mop in progress... really is a high water mark for inlay.

    • Like 2

  8. 13 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

    Thanks for the ideas @mistermikev. They're humbucker sized P90's made in China, cheap as soap. Taking them out is a no-brainer - unscrew, push one end in and pull the other end out. Putting them in with the springs took a day.

    There seems to be no 'out of phase' thing going on, the bridge has just much a noticeably weaker volume. I could lower the neck pickup by a couple of mm's, almost level with the body, but doing that would get some of the bite of it off. At the moment the clearance to the strings is about 7 mm at the neck and 5 mm at the bridge.

    6.8k is decent output... but admittedly if it is too close to the bridge the output will be drastically reduced.  lot of things you could try... changing the magnet for dif freq response, brass plate on the bottom(dif freq response), bigger strings, but there really isn't anything that's going to add output other than a boost circuit.  at the end of the day... replace the bridge with higher output pickup would be the best.

    my dano style has a version of this issue going on in the bridge pickup.  those pickups are all 4k so really low output to begin with. the one closest to the bridge is noticeably quieter.  I have oft thought of buying a replacement... but you want to talk about hard to mount... it has dano style bent brass inside that similarly took hours to get in there without bending it such that the pickup wouldn't come back 'up'.  further, it's not quite bad enough that it even sounds bad... so motivation is low!

    afa springs... I use silicon tube because (esp on p90 or other surface mount) springs are just a pain in the arse and can make noises that ruin a recording. 


  9. haha, I've been in this position so many times (installed but something clearly wrong and don't want to mess up my pretty wiring to rewire!)

    honestly those pickups are so closely matched... but then freq vintage pickups are close like that.  I'm going to wager an issue with magnetic polarity.  seen it a thousand times.  if these are humbuckers... I'd start to consider that perhaps you got a weak magnet.  You could probably swap the two magnets without fully taking them out... err... maybe. 

    if it was magnet... you could pass it through a couple of rare earth mags and restore the magnetism. 

    if this is single coils... I'd start to wonder about one or two poles being flipped.  this has happened to me and it's a bear to track down.  it ends up sounding sort of 'out of phase'.  bass is all cancelled.  you can test this with a camping compass - passing it over the top to check magnetism you'll see it flip over on certain slugs.

    hope some of that helps.

     


  10. Just now, ScottR said:

    One day I'm going to have to try that.

    SR

    I think the sm thing.  I often look at my own builds and thing 'I should keep this one matte or maybe satin' - next thing I know it's gloss and there's no going back.  Someday!

    Guitar is looking really great tho... don't want to distract from that.  I could stare at that thing all day.  Just lovely!  Take a bow!


  11. so my name is mike v and I can't resaw to save my life.  with that in mind I bought a wood slicer to do a last ditch attempt at this. 

    haven't resawn anything yet... but I just cut a v in my neck blank (long story) and I gotta say... this thing cuts like butta.  I have a few other blades... nothing too expensive but there is some timberworlf in there... just a 1/4" blade.  I use that to cut profiles and such and it cuts nice... but NOWHERE near as smooth as this wood slicer. 

    for $35ish... pretty happy.  I will eventually be attempting some resaw with it... don't have anything I need right now... but I suspect this is going to be a game changer. 

    so... for anyone looking for a solid bandsaw blade that cuts incredibly smooth - and for dirt cheap... this is it.


  12. 10 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    Salty conversations, woo! Anyway. Not sure if SD covers are special, however the wider trembucker pole spacing is needed. I've no idea why wide spacing isn't the standard rather than the exception any more. But hey. The other option on the table is a set of Fluence Classics. Not my first choice since I really dig the SD Custom Custom's VH type of crunch and feel, and the 59 in the neck. I'm sure these can be dialled in to produce similar feels from the instrument they're fitted to, even if not the same specific tone. Feel means a lot, but the tone produces that mental feedback loop if that makes sense.

    Having the pickups on the bench makes a huge difference in making the pickup rings. I'd rather manufacture them from the physical item, however I'm certain that Fishman's dimension specs are on the nose.

    well, i dunno if it helps... but I believe trembuckers are 50mm and you can get 49.2, 50 and 52mm all over evilbay/amazon/etc (if yer not concerned about your tone molecules).  I don't have any trembuckers, but have bought 49.2 spaced covers and they work fine on my 59s.


  13. 10 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

    It's the Euro sign. You know, similar to dollar but more valuable.

    it was humor... you may have heard it from me b4... but not the first time my humor has been accused of being, how do you say... 'not at all funny'.  hehe.

    oh, snap... just saw the 'but more valuable'... you got me gooood.  nice one.

    • Haha 1

  14. On 5/21/2020 at 1:17 AM, Prostheta said:

    Just a note to keep this project pinned and show what the way forward will be....hopefully. I still need to acquire some key hardware and make some tools, which in this mid-pandemic layoff is a low priority. Money is super tight and we only have savings to see us through the summer. Bummer.

    Anyway. The bridge pickup is going to be a bit of a task. I don't seem to be able to find covered SD TB-11s this side of the pond, meaning that I either need to snag an uncovered TB-11 and solder a cover myself or get one direct. Turns out that a TB cover costs maybe €30-35 from the US anyway, so I might as well buy one finished up. It's easy to find a standard-spaced covered SH-1n though.

    I've decided to make a bending iron from a length of allthread and two pieces of steel pipe, heated with a torch. This is about as simple as it can get, and since I don't expect to be making a habit of forming wooden binding or other thin stuff, a full-on iron isn't necessary. The other option would be mashing a barbecue lighter element into the pipe, which is probably about the same cost as a small torch. One for another time.

    The slightly smaller than most headstock doesn't fit the footprint of vintage Kluson-type 15:1 tuners, so I think they'll end up being a set of tulip button Gotoh SG301s. I'm going to check the look by modelling them up first. My first choice would be 3x3 Hipshot open gear tuners, but again this boils down to availability and cost.

    I'm about at that stage where I can consider doing work on the neck profile, however I should pass the heel face through a table saw to establish a good parallel flat face at the right depth. I don't want to start adding in any profile until the fingerboard is glued up, as the lower flat face is important for getting even clamping pressure.

    well brother... here's to hoping things get back to normal for you and many other folks who are laid off right now. 

    idk what that strange symbol next to the 30 up there is... but sd covers are outrageously priced!  I'm told its because they use some magic metal that doesn't interfere with the tone molecules dancing on your strings... and they have to be blessed by the pope to be effective... but I can't confirm. 

    anywho, may the gods smile in your favor and find you the hardware you need... looking fwd to seeing some more pics!

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