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ZekeB

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ZekeB last won the day on June 10

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  1. Been trying different things, techniques before I do the neck. Built all my jigs, got my supplies now. Here's my prototype compound radius jig. 12" to 15.5". Reason for the weird 15.5" is I wanted to be equal the ratio of string spacing. In theory its the right amount of radius for my nut to bridge width change. If anything it was challenging. Remade my lathe jig for my knobs too. My old one didn't work for how small they were so I made a new one. Here's a pic of the compound radius jig.
  2. ZekeB

    anyone use a radius jig?

    I don't know if this helps but this is what I made for my compound radius jig.
  3. My second option is this which I'll probably end up doing. Seems the shaft isn't ferrous so I can just use a magnet ring to make the cap removable.
  4. Been thinking about this all day. I thought about using a collet on the top cap but I want it to be low profile. I don't want to use some type of plastic on the inside. Didn't want the set screw to show and it needs to be functional. I've done something similar with a chess set piece I made. I know its a bit involved for a knob but I got time to kill and I think it will be pretty cool.
  5. Is that spline shaft ferrous?
  6. I've got a plan for this. I've made some sleeves in the past and made a little jig. Its two cone looking pieces that have a open bolt between the two. I put my piece around the bolt and just tighten it down before i put it on the lathe. I like the idea with the grub screw.
  7. On my business trip here was able to CAD out my knobs. What you guys think?
  8. ZekeB

    design (not cosmetic) feedback...

    Its funny because I was asking all these same questions and after I actually built the body I ended up changing most of those variables because they seem to all be tied to each other. If its an original design I think the best thing you can do is make a prototype shape out of some laminated cheap wood to see what it actually feels like and also helped me with how i wanted to do my cuts and see where I might have complications. I think your neck pocket will be fine from what I've seen from other designs. I actually had an engineer test and see if my neck would be structurally good. I think the average neck pocket length is around 3.5+", 2" being the shortest I've seen. I'd just make sure your design has the right cavity depth you need for the controls you want to use. I think the belly cut will really be found when you actually build it. Mine was nowhere near what actually worked for me. Looks like a cool design!
  9. Thanks for the kind words. I'm thankful to have a strong community to learn from and help me get things right the first time. I can see how trial and error on your own could be a very long agrivating endeavor.
  10. Lots more sanding to do but it's coming.
  11. Went back and brought that carve in to the inner contour line. Really like the result. Feels a lot fuller. Time for sanding. Thanks for the advice SR
  12. No I think you confirmed what I was feeling. I think that will help give it a little more organic feel. I'll balance it out tonight
  13. I think i may taper off the back a little more. I'll wait to see what it looks like sanded. Seems like there's a lot of void area there. Maybe sanding in the curve will help. The bridge will also help. Maybe I'm focusing on the pickup area.
  14. Trying to catch up on post. Cut the control cavity and civer and carved the top. Speed is not my forte on carving. Took me a few nights carving up away from the binding channels I don't nick it. I did end up drawing the contour lines like you said. Thanks for the advice. I've got lots of sanding and refine to do on the shape but here it is.
  15. Pickup cavity and control channel cut. try to do the carve tomorrow
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