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ZekeB last won the day on June 19

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About ZekeB

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  1. you might try putting your inspiration picture besides your design to tie those elements together too. I like to work simple and build from there. I just can't keep up with all the other variables otherwise.
  2. Not sure how I missed this thread. I love design To me the first picture was right in terms of the curve of the f-hole. I like when the shapes parallel the curvature of the body like the examples urumiko posted.. You might try to put put the outline on a piece of paper and tie the shapes together first. I find the off colors like two tones of whites and textures will trick your eyes before you establish a good balance of shapes. I just overlapped some vector lines and started playing with the shapes. Try and use inkscape (free) to play with the shape. You just grab the little nodes and start bending. I made a svg with the below model if your interested. I'll send it to your email if you'd like.
  3. Bound the pickguard and did a little spot checking. I'll cut and sand everything flush. And finished. Best inlay so far.
  4. Inlaid. Going to bind this with black andput a few coats of tru oil on. I figure it'll be easy to touch up if I'm banging on it with a pick. The pick guard cavity will be routed into the body on a slight angle. Really looking forward to the next part.
  5. Fantastic looking guitar. I love the dark texture of that top.
  6. Here's the dry fit. Black fiber worked really well. Glue tomorrow
  7. I'm going with gold as well. I'm thinking that the other colors are pretty dark and dependent on your finish it could get darker. The gold is a good accent against that dark to me. It also depends on the knobs. If you go with something gold it'll stand out against the black. I guess it just depends on your components you'll add as well
  8. So I had an idea to try. I was afraid the gold mother of pearl wood get lost in the zebrawood and I didnt want to use black dye in the epoxy because it's unlikely the route will be perfect. On top of that some of these pieces are tiny so I decided to glue some black fiber cloth around the sides to help with consistency of the inlay and allow me to open up the route a little bit. So far so good. I think it'll clean up well from what I've seen so far.
  9. That neck really pops against that green. Looks great
  10. That's looking great Ash. That prs is one of my favorite finishes.
  11. I think I'll do that to add the eyes and beak at least. You recommend any specific combination for the dye?
  12. Here she is. Got a few cracks as I set some but moving forward. On to the pickguard.
  13. Here's the results from the ebony dust mixture vs black dye mixture. The larger piece is the dust.
  14. Thanks again, Mike. For what its worth, here's my inlay procedure. Started with a printout of the inlay. I made the lines .010" on the print so it would be on the line of the cut. I glued those on to the material and that helps with sanding and holding things together if the material is brittle like the jasper. If you use brittle material go thicker. On the jasper its 1..5 mm and the MOP is 1mm. They messed up my order and the black was .5mm so I routed at different depths for those. I used two blades one fine and one course. Fine for soft material, course for the harder stuff. After everything was cut I laid down some painters tape on the fret board and got another print of the template and cut out the shapes with a razor. I taped when it was positioned and started fitting the pieces in and gluing them into place. When set, I removed the template and scored the pieces. I scored the wood. Removed the material and tape and I scored again deeper so it'll come off when you get near with the router bit. I used chalk to brighten up the lines. From there I have a 3/32" and 1/32" bit that are spiral down cutting bits. the 3/32" bit works well keeping the material out but the 1/32" is honestly still a little messy. This is where the scoring will help a lot. You don't want to go deeper than the width of the bit. If you do your more prone to breaking it. You'll also be able to work clean if you do multiple passes. If I can't see the edge of the side where I scored it I just get near it and leave it alone. When the initial route is down I use thee types of razors. One with a sharp tip, hook, and rounded. My rule of thump is to try not to pull.the razors. You'll end up scoring going places you don't want to go. If the edge is scored well i'll use the rounded one to stab and turn to break it free and you'll have a nice clean accurate edge. For the really sharp corners I'll use the hook and very carefully stab the corners while pressing down. I then try my pieces, re-score if needed and they'll fit eventually.
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