Jump to content

Entry for February 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

custom22

Established Member
  • Content Count

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About custom22

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
  • Interests
    Guitar Drums BUilding Guitars LAcrosse Ice Hockey Blowing stuff up
  1. I gotta go with the one piece 1. Because somebody finally did it. 2. The carves and inlay look really nice. and 3. Anybody who creates a semihollow out of a solid chunk of wood deserves props! Great job!
  2. Sorry to interupt all of this profound progresssion, but i have a question. I have a cheap humbucker in the neck position, and i plan on scrapping one of the coils for the driver, and using the other coil as the neck pickup. Could i use the same magnet for both operations?
  3. Try www.smallbearelec.com Thats where i get my parts. Theres nothing really wrong with the current design; these people are trying to work out different things such as using the sustainer with middle pickups or making a sustainer which cuts off when the note is sustained to save powe.
  4. If you wanna enhance the grain, you might wanna check out the linseed oil technique. I dont know much about it, but this guy from www.guitarrefinishing.com did, and so have many others. It seems to work pretty well without having to sandback the wood.
  5. I finally got my Fetzer Ruby to make a sound. I plan on messing with drivers and such, and i've come up with an idea. Would it be possible to use the existing magnet and bars of a pickup to wrap around wire in addition to the pickup coil? I would think it feasible, depending on where the pickup's existing magnets are. What does everyone else think?
  6. removing the neck pickup is just as you say- you must remove it from the circuit while the sustainer is on (probably the mid one as well) to avoid feedback. Definately join the humungo thread, it seeems like you have plenty of valuable knowledge. BTW, is that Ruby thing on the link in your signature correct?
  7. To those who use the Fetzer-Ruby, what do you turn the trin pot to? I believe it has something to do with biasing, but what is the general consensus with this?
  8. The Champ is available in kit form with a circuit board and I used this as the basis of my LM386 section. The mods are listed in the above post and runs at full gain in my set up. You could put in a 1k trimmer pot in there between pins 1 and 8 with the 10 uF cap for variable gain between 20-200x gain. You still will however need a preamp. The fetzer or any number of booster circuits will do the job. I have a preamp with a lot of gain and filtering, but the fetzer is smaller and works. My preamp is confusing and built on a PCB so is not really suitable for vero or perfboarding. I'm sure could be done better. I really should draw this out...no time just now...however BTW that would be wicked to have that LED thing in the driver! Leave the pickup connected to the guitar's controls as normal. Then take another set of leads form the Hot and ground leads of the pickup, hot to the IN and ground of pickup to ground of circuit. Hope that makes sense... pete Alright, i think i got it. Is the ground of the circuit the same as the ground for the guitar?
  9. Sorry, I didnt mean driver. I am aware that the driver is where the speaker is. I meant how do i connect the bridge pickup to the driver circuit. PSW- I'm sorry but i dont understand. The black is the pickup's normal input, and the green is its normal ground. Do i connect the ground wire like normal, with the black wire going to the hot output and the preamp? Or is it one or the other? Thanks Alot!
  10. Alright guys, time for the question of the day...which is the correct way to wire the sustainer to the bridge pickup? Please no guesses...I'm not quite sure where to implement to driver so i need a little help, and please give me some direction if none of the above are correct.
  11. The tele is pretty sweet, but im not a big spalt fan. Dougs is like a satanic violin shape, and is definately wellfcrafted, but i dont know about the shape. The quilt top is amazing with great color; i dont know what to say about the shape. The baritone acoustic is simple and sweet, and i think i gotta go with that, but cant decide. Everybody should be proud.
  12. Well, i guess I'll build the Ruby to be safe. I play gauge 11 strings and never have them extremely low, so that shouldnt be a problem. Thanks for the help! Edit- For the Fetzer/Ruby, does the bridge output goes to the fetzer/ruby instead of directly to ground? Also, where do you put the on/off switch? Does it bypass the whole assembly, or cut off the battery, or something else?
  13. I dont things you would want the strings bouncing on the fretboard would you(I'm not challenging you, this is an honest question)? I'm sorry if i sound completely ignorant, but i am trying my best to learn electronics along with many other things. What do you mean by "splitting the signal"? Are you talking about splitting the signal to the guitar amplifier and the driver amplifier?
  14. Since it is 1.5 times output as a ruby, would the coil be more prone to frying, or the strings bouncing on the fretboard, or uncontrolled feedback? Could a resistor somewhere solve this? If this here amplifier has a good chance of working, i wouldnt mind trying it and reporting results to everyone else. Being a busy person, it would be well worth it to me if all that is needed is a resistor.
  15. First of all, thanks to everyone who contributes, especially Pete. After 108 pages many people have been helped because of you. Secondly, what is the output on one of those amplifiers you make (ruby etc)? I was thinking i could use one of these http://store.guitarfetish.com/on25waguamdr.html in place of wiring it. What you you think? You say that this amplifier is able to drive a small speaker, so how about this? Thanks in advance -Ryan
×
×
  • Create New...