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ADFinlayson

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ADFinlayson last won the day on November 2

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About ADFinlayson

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    West Oxfordshire
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    GB

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  1. I think I've got procrastination down to a fine art. I got as far as starting the inlays on the bass, didn't want to tackle those, and I was also on the inlays for the lp, didn't want to tackle those either So I had a good week off guitar building and built my website. That's all finished now - http://www.adfinlaysonguitars.co.uk. So back to building and, procrastinating. did some more work on the LP, finished carving the underside of the top and got it glued on to the body. Both the top and the mahog had moved slightly (again), so thank heavens for the drum sander Anyway, pics Planed in the neck angle Go the heel to correct thickness and square and got the pocket routed I also routed in a little recess for the toggle switch, it was a real PITA to sand the finish safely on Lukes hardtail, but It looks cool so I'm sticking with it, I've got to blast over the whole thing with the random orbital now. You can see there is lots of quilt appearing on the top side but not a lot on the left, that's all covered in scratches/divots from my thumb planes so the figure is hard to see. I was hoping to get the sanding done this evening, but my garage is a pig sty and I couldn't find my soft sanding pad for the orbital. So I spent a couple of hours tidying. I think I'll do some tidying and a bit of a garage overhaul before I do too much more. It'll get me out of doing those inlays anyway.
  2. The thing I like most about a 1-peice neck, other than looks as you say, it's a lot less work
  3. 3" is a lot and way more than I normally need for my angled headstocks. Blanks I get off ebay are normally 2" which is plenty for my 13º angles. G&W do some fairly thick african mahogany blanks. But it really depends on the species you're after as different trees are larger than others.
  4. Looking at the photos I very much doubt it, you can see from this pic there is some neck/neckthrough wood exposed under the fretboard, after the neck/body join, so few mm has been cut off the neckthrough where it joins the body so the bridge sits lower. Pretty much what I'm doing on the billy bongo, but I'm also removing the thickness of the top in addition to the few mm of clearance.
  5. Checkout the hipshot headless tremelo, you wouldn't need a locking nut on a headless guitar because the tuners are at the other end.
  6. Thanks @Bizman62 I work on a 28" monitor, so it's getting things to look good on small screens that normally poses the problem. The photos are hosted on photos.google.com so they can take all of the credit for the compression wizardry I know I've got a few browsers issues to address, but I'm hoping I can have it all up and running and get back out in the workshop by the weekend.
  7. Looks amazing @ZekeB GOTM in waiting
  8. The Unread Content button shows all!
  9. Had a few build related enquiries lately that have all started off with "What's your website url" so I've taken a bit of time out of building to up my marketing game and got myself a website together. Still very much a work in progress - it's not really mobile optimised yet, I guess you'd call it a soft launch. Very happy to get any feedback, suggested improvements if any one is interested. http://adfinlaysonguitars.co.uk/
  10. Not sure what you're asking here.. .006" is 0.15mm which is nothing at all. I normally inlay 1-2mm MOP into my headstocks. When you say routing into the pocket do you mean cutting into the headstock wood (through the veneer)? in which case, that is fine. just do the inlay work after the headstock veneer is glued on to the headstock.
  11. It's not the end of the world if the lams aren't completely flat, if you had a maple neck blank and you slice it down the middle to make 2 bookmatched outer laminates, if there is any bowing, just align them so the hump is in the middle. When you're glueing up lots of pieces, be mindful of the laminates slipping under the clamps, it's really easy for that to happen, especially if you've got veneers between the lams, so it's worth making everything oversized, just in case. The most awkward thing I found with lams was getting the neck blank perfectly flat and square again after glue up, easier if you've got a joiner, but it's wise to knock off the high spots with a hand plane before jointing/thicknessing, because while you will end up with a square piece of wood, it's easy for the strips in the middle to go off square with the sides/top of the neck blank. As for alternating grain. If you've bookmatched a piece of maple and put in a wenge centre strip, you shouldn't really need to do any flipping, the wenge piece should counter any movement from the maple. Laminates make the most stable necks IMO, I just prefer using one piece 1. it's much less work, 2, the people that will be ordering them have it in their heads that one piece is better.
  12. Yep, it’s bliss to use. The vac actually works surprisingly well, but yes I am looking into a dedicated extractor, something with a 100mm shoot that I can use for this and the band saw,
  13. I've found that to be the wisest course of action when something goes wrong. What finish did you go for, is it nitro?
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