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ADFinlayson last won the day on May 23

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About ADFinlayson

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  1. ADFinlayson

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    Yep, i love everything about this guitar except for the shape and colour. I had a bc rich v when I was 17, that’s enough v for me
  2. ADFinlayson

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    Very helpful bud, thank you! After sealing, I decided I'm pretty happy with it after all, so I've started putting some poly over it. At this point, the walnut went POP I dropped a bollock though because the control cover has more flaming than the headstock There is a hard edge at the start of the heel, so I'm planning to tidy up the edge along the sids where the maple laminate is and have that line as the start of the oiled neck which will hopefully look seamless.
  3. ADFinlayson

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    I think the green is down to the brown coat - There is obviously some yellow in it. It does also look a bit purple in some light, no idea why!
  4. ADFinlayson

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    No mate, the walnut/maple veneers will be natural and I think the control cover looks better natural as it will never be see at the same time as the top.
  5. ADFinlayson

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    Progress on the V then. I ended up putting strings on to finish off the carve to get it right: Even with the heel I routed in, there was still too much meat at the dusty end so I put in a bit of a ramp to make access better I got the neck to 20mm thickness with a D shape from the nut to the 15th fret, then it slopes gradually to the start of the of the heel at the 19th. Sanded everything to 320 then put down a brown base colour after reading several posts saying brown is better than black for highlighting figure. This highlighted a few scratches I didn't see before and a couple of gouge marks that I missed, so I did a lot more sanding. But if it was my guitar, it would be staying this colour - I think it ties in really nicely with the walnut. Then after knocking it back again with 320, I went for a coat of blue. I used crimson stains here because the Liberon blue looks more green than blue. There are a few places where the grain won't take stain, I'm starting to think that this is just a trait of flat sawn maple as I never had this issue with the red one or the wenge/sycamore lp (both quarter sawn tops) Then did a bit of a burst too highlight the carved areas which looks almost green in places Need to knock it back some more with wire wool to help the blend. I don't know that I'm super happy with it though I expect Ollie will love it anyway so I started scraping back the binding. I'll see what it looks like while the sealer is wet and decide whether to crack on or sand it back and have another go.
  6. ADFinlayson

    Any am techs on here?

    You can do your own wiring in the UK, but it has to be inspected, signed off and ultimately taken responsibility for by a qualified electrician so it's not common to do ones own DIY electrics, however my dad was an electrician so I've been enjoying free labour in that regard I don't know about the rest of the world, but electricians are terrible at making good here though, especially when they aren't getting paid.
  7. ADFinlayson

    Sanding sealers, hardeners and resins?

    Lol I doubt I will enter many more guitars in GOTM this year, I've already entered 3.
  8. ADFinlayson

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    Tearout tends not to be a problem when skimming the top with a router, so it's a good way to thickness a plank. You will probably find that it won't go through your thicknesser. The widest cutting hobby thicknesser on the market is the Triton with a max cut of 317mm, but the PRS body shape is 340mm (this is the bane of my life too) and there is a huge jump in cost between those that wont fit a whole body and ones that will sadly.
  9. ADFinlayson

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    You still have the option of making the body thinner, with your router sled. You could get it down to a good weight given how hollow it is. I was thinking the other day, you mentioned your concern about the side being too thin - well just glue in some pieces along the sides to give more of a glueing surface, think of how an acoustic is constructed.
  10. ADFinlayson

    Metal for inlays

    Yes metal can be bent, but it's a lot more likely to pop out.
  11. ADFinlayson

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    yep, I did it last night - I put the bridge and tuners and a set of strings on the V while I finalised the carve so I could get the feel right.
  12. ADFinlayson

    looking for tips on nitro over fretboard

    I used this technique before removing the frets on a lacquered maple Hondo neck at the weekend. There was plenty of lacquer where the frets met the fretboard so it's obviously not a technique they used back in the 80s, I guess they just lacquered over the frets then just levelled and crowned, which would probably end up with a neater result when the frets have been painted a solid colour.
  13. ADFinlayson

    Sanding sealers, hardeners and resins?

    Grain filler will be a better option for wenge, the grain is so open that it should be filled instead of sealed to give you a nice level surface for the finish . clear or black filler would do, not sure about how open the palmwood is but at a guess I would grain fill that the same as the wenge given how dark it is, then once that's done, I'd use a sanding sealer on the cap once you've got it stained. BTW dude, on paper this guitar sounds stunning, I'm tempted to get some palmwood for a neck of my own.
  14. ADFinlayson

    Metal for inlays

    I've never seen any ebony fretboards with nitro over them before, could be cool but it's certainly not necessary given how hard ebony is. For inlay, I'd have thought sheet aluminum would be the perfect material, it's light, easy to cut and looks nice brushed or sanded to a higher sheen. In terms of budget, you don't need a particularly large piece if you cut each fret separately but it will probs need to be at least 2mm thick for the prism to be inlayed deep enough when taking into account the radius of the fretboard. Another option would be aluminum powder+glue because those thinnest parts of the wave will be feckin' awkward to cut for both the pieces and the cavities.
  15. ADFinlayson

    1st build Walnut Multiscale 7 string

    haha, wait until you get 6 or 7 guitars in mate, the supportiveness may gain some sour undertones, in some cases may kick back like maple on a router. I make sure all jobs are done before I step foot in the garage, then regular application of wine and flowers with lunches out most weekends is just about keeping mine on side.