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ADFinlayson

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ADFinlayson last won the day on September 16

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About ADFinlayson

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    West Oxfordshire
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  1. Thanks @Bizman62 It's a 1/4" blade, I had a look at laser cutters a while back, the ones I saw that weren't crazy money stated that they wouldn't cut shell. I guess a scroll saw could also work well but the blade is going up and down like a hand saw.
  2. thanks bud, much appreciated. It's a lovely looking wood but so hard on tools, hand cutting fret slots in it is not fun!
  3. these things happen, you shouldn't bin it though, you've got lots of exotic wood binding strips and inlay material there!
  4. you could just stick the flat side to a flat surface and plane the top flat with a hand plane, no4 would make quick work of it, then perfect it with a radius beam once it's cut down to dimensions.
  5. Avoid the little Fender Mustang GT amps, while it has loads of cool features, including bluetooth and a built in looper (which is why I bought it) it sounds utterly dreadful. I had a blackstar ID Core 40, which sound fantastic, really liked that amp. But the circuit board completely failed after 2 years.
  6. You should, these results have surpassed my expectations by a country mile. Can’t wait for the next opportunity to spray a guitar
  7. Well in finally got round to buffing today, only had some polish and elbow grease to work with, but this is what I got
  8. I really like using the razor saw, it's so fine that it cuts into really hard woods like ebony quite quickly, so I find it's much quicker than just marking the slots and going at it with the fretsaw.
  9. based on where your fretboard ends and the neckthrough joins the wings, you could get away with having plenty more material there at the heel and still have a very shreddy neck. I'm sure you're design is plenty enough wood in strength terms, but I don't think it would hinder playability if you wanted more. Looks great anyway, really like the natural finish you're shooting for.
  10. The last time I used crimson oil, I had that same issue after a few coats. I found the best way to sort it out was to pour a load more oil over it and sand it in with 600 wet and dry until it was smooth, it worked well. Then I wiped off the excess as the big man says.
  11. The lapel mic was a free gift from @Urumiko and has made a huge difference to the audio quality. It's hard to find the sweet spot for volume because it's relative compared to other youtube videos you've just been watching. Just finished episode 13, fret slotting
  12. Beautiful work, that binding jig you're using, can you explain how it worked, more photos? I could do with something similar.
  13. In my limited experience, any wood I've worked with that has some kind of figure other than the grain, e.g flaming, quilting, that normally runs perpendicular to the grain, common with Maple, Walnut, Limba etc - there is usually some shimmer/chatoyance, but as @ScottR says, it's visible in the blank and is enhanced by finishing, not created by finishing. That figure is far less common in mahogany. I use African mahogany (Khaya) a lot, but I've never been lucky enough to get a piece with any flaming/rippling in it. I've seen a few high end PRS where they used flamed mahogany for the body, but those pieces will be hard to come by and cost a fortune.
  14. Was it just the music that was a bit loud? Volume is something that's quite difficult to get right tbh, It's quite easy to get the voice audio to peak but there is a fine line between that and too quiet, where mumbling is inaudible.
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