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Entry for October 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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Everything posted by ADFinlayson

  1. Yes, my home insurer has a blanket garage content value (which is not enough) and will not increase the value of cover. But I am unable to get any kind of cover for tools because I am not running a business - at least, I've tried a few companies so far but they won't quote.
  2. What do chaps on here do about insuring their workshop? I came over with a Jet drum sander yesterday and now I'm concerned that I don't have anywhere near enough cover for the contents of my shop. My house insurance won't allow me to increase cover for contents in my garage, and I can't get business insurance for tools because I'm not a business. Anyone else had experience in this area? it seams to be a bit of a minefield
  3. My reamer only goes up to 16mm unfortunately and I struggled to find a larger one. I had success with the 16mm flat bit and the 17mm hss bit, my new drill press has made jobs like tuner holes a damn sight easer, however holding a bass neckthrough blank up to the drill press while at the same time manning the drill level was not very enjoyable. Still some tweaking to do on the final shape and some tidying up to do but really happy with it. I've made some good progress on the procrastinator too really enjoyed carving the f-hole, I cut most of it out with a coping saw and finalised the shape with a carving knife. I've routed the hollow chamber in the mog too, he asked for the back not to be carved because he wants a deeper acoustic chamber, so I shall just roundover the back of the guitar, no belly carve eaither (makes building the body a big quicker. I was going to go larger on the chamber - more around the bridge to end much closer to the control cavity. But I am concerned about how light it's going to be (not a problem I've had before). Now I have a question to ask: On the previous semi-hollow build I did, I oiled the inside of the f-hole cavity to add protection, make it look a bit nicer, but that was closed grain ovangkol. Should I leave it unfinished? fill the grain and oil? or just oil? I've got lots of tidying up to do with the orbital sander now, especially around the burnt pot recesses before I can consider sticking the two pieces together. I also need to sand the underside of the cap so it's completely flat as it's currently far from flat and the joint is just not going to be good enough with the reduced glueing surface.
  4. yep lovely looking axe, you really made the right choice going natural instead of paint.
  5. Good idea, the long tenon on the prs design is very thin anyway for the neck pickup to fit in, having a long piece glued along the bottom would definitely be strong, of course it would be highly visible so might be worth using a contrasting wood and make a feature of it,
  6. Never mind the work that went into it, or how good it looks, you can tell just by listening to it how well set up that thing is. Amazing work Andy, if I had just a modicum of your skills, I would consider myself a Wizard.
  7. Congrats on your well deserved GOTM win, truly unique and stunning
  8. not easily, you can't just glue another piece on end to end because it will be very weak. You could fashion a mortice and tenon joint but would need to be really careful about cutting into the truss rod. Personally I would save that neck for another project and just make a prs style neck instead, if you're using pre bought, there are pre made prs style kit necks available for not a lot. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338593098&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fi%2F283565006951%3Fchn%3Dps%26norover%3D1%26mkevt%3D1%26mkrid%3D710-134428-41853-0%26mkcid%3D2%26itemid%3D283565006951%26targetid%3D539970073633%26device%3Dc%26mktype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1669190348%26mkgroupid%3D67214011080%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-539970073633%26abcId%3D578896%26merchantid%3D6995734%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjwuZDtBRDvARIsAPXFx3Cf6mdf-7TI5arVQ95HRZeb3n0w_sceDZr1Ev66dlSyFxiAWnkYepUaAggBEALw_wcB
  9. I'm afraid this is turning into a tale of two axes because I did nothing on the Billy Bongo this weekend, I can still dig a finger nail into the epoxy so I'm leaving it another couple of days. I have been doing a lot of carving the other one though, all with gouges and thumb planes I got this crude pin-router esque setup so I could flip the top upside down, the outside of the carve would ride on this and the depth stop would enable me to dirll a consistent depth to give me a guide for carving, Worked really well So after carving the outside, I carved the inside around where the f hole is going to mirror the outside. Still a bit more to do but the carve is getting there. Carving the inside concave was really awkward because there is nowhere for the gouge to go, so I had better luck just using the thumb planes. You can see the maple didn't like the router very much so there is a lot of burning to sand out in the pot recesses, but I'd rather burn marks that tear out, so counting it as a win. Planning to get the tuner holes drilled and headstock shaped on the bass later this week.
  10. I did look for an odd numbered step drill actually, to no avail. Didn't think of imperial, but I've got a 17mm bit now - that I will probably never use again
  11. I’ve filled all the voids in the top and the back of the headstock with black epoxy and it seems to be taking an age to dry, either it’s the cold weather or I didn’t get the mix right. So in the meantime, I’ve been worrying about these tuners. They require a 14mm hole for the shaft and 17mm hole for the bushing. Can’t find a 17mm Brad bit anywhere but I have got a 16mm flat bit that has a point and I’ve managed to find a 17mm hss bit which I’m hoping to use to fettle the hole up to size. Tried on a test piece and it worked, bushing went in fine. The procrastination guitar is coming on too. Got the neck blank roughed our and the cap is flat, glued and routed to shape, Got to route the pot recesses the carve. It’s going to be another semi hollow les Paul type build like the red one, only mahogany instead of Ovangkol, ziricote board and it will be purple, oh and the chap wants a monkey at the 12th fret
  12. You're doing a lot of worrying about nothing IMO - I've glued many fretboards with titebond and never had issues with water in the glue causing any bowing. Bowing, if at all is normally caused from hammering in frets. If you're really worried, get yourself a dual action truss rod and you don't need to worry about introducing a bow. The biggest concern I would have about glueing a pre radiused and slotted board is that it's going on straight and that even pressure can be applied over the radius.
  13. the subtle stain really works with that piece. You know, if you upload your photos to photos.google.com instead of photobucket, you won't get any annoying watermarks on your pics, there is no cost or storage limit to google photos and there is a really good phone app app that makes it easy to put your photos into albums for your builds
  14. I think you're right, I'm definitely going to have to get the ruler out on the wood and draw some lines along the taper, just awkward because it's so damn long. But I've got this procrastination game down to a fine art. by starting a new guitar
  15. why not just level it off with a hand plane? have you got a no7? that's all i used to get my bench flat.
  16. So my ears are on and planed flush, joints came out really well But I decided to to stick some pheobe to the back with a contrast veneer between to match the top - for strength as much as anything, I doubt it will be that visible under the tuners. Like the top, I'm going to have to flood the voids with eboxy, but I think I'll get the shape finalised first and tape round the sides. One thing I've just found which is very annoying, the Bongo plans I have are totally inaccurate. The plan that has the exact tuner positions is not the same scale as the drawing of the headstock, seems to be printed at a different scale even though it's on the same sheet of paper So I'm going to have to manually figure out where to drill the tuner positions. If anyone has some ideas on how best to achieve this, I'd be very grateful for the advice. I want to get the tuner holes drilled and screw the bridge into the neck through so I can be sure that the taper of the neck is right now that I've found the plans aren't accurate, hopefully that way I can make adjustments if needed.
  17. haha, mine went through a narky phase about a year ago because I was "spending all my time in the garage", and I would usually notice her switch off when I talked about guitars (to be fair, that's all the time). But now that I charge labour, she's a lot more interested
  18. She's more informed than my other half, she just said "oooh shiny" but I'll take that
  19. Yep, the two DCs have taken a bit of a back foot for a week or so. I was getting worried that I'm going to be getting behind on the commission builds. I appear to have inherited my fathers gene of starting a job before finishing another. The other body you see it just a prototype I'm working on here and there so I can prove that I can build a guitar with a trem before I start working on another customer build with a trem. Got my top jointed and glued up along with the headstock ears. My shooting board isn't big enough for a bass body, rather than making a larger one that I'm rarely going to use, I decided to rough out the shape first so there was less of a joint to work on. It was quite difficult to get the joint right with all the weird figuring. But it seems to have come out ok, bit hairy at the very top but that will be cut away for the fretboard anyway. You can see there are a lot of spots where the glue splurged up through the holes when I glue the veneers on. That's going to need a fair bit of cleaning up and I think I'm going to have to flood it all with epoxy.
  20. Good bit of progress over the last couple of days. Fretboard is glued on and trimmed flush with the taper, I've cut the nut slot (I'm using a graphtech 42mm nut) which slots in nicely, not as snug as i'd like but I think, worst case I could squeeze a slither of veneer in there with it. I opted to cut the slot prior to radius as I figured it would be easier to keep the bottom flat. I've also cut the excess off and shaped the ramp on the bobbin sander, there's a truss rod in there somewhere Cut out the rest of the shape on the band saw, it's a nice light bass at the moment Came up with a design for the headstock (the bongo headstock just doesn't work with the billy body design). It's, i guess a half-way house between music man and fender - I'm trying to keep it as short as possible for balance but maintain the tuner positions of the bongo. (the bottom one will be facing in). I'm putting a contrast veneer between the top and the body. The veneer sheet isn't wide enough to do it in one, so I figured the easiest way to glue it together would be to glue a sheet to the underside of both halves of the top and then joint them together and glue all on to the top as one. Had some wood hanging around to use as a veneer press I've got some headstock ears jointed and ready to be glued on. I've also marked out the plank fo the body so I'm going to start chopping that up tomorrow. This one's coming on quite quickly, Hopefully when I see Snuffy tomorrow, he will tell me what he want's me to inlay, I think that is going to be the part that slows down this project. Oh yeah, I got a new tool this week Not a particularly expensive one, but a vast improvement on the hand drill and my dads mortice machine. It turns out there is a little engineering shop around the corner from me that I didn't know existed, it's like Alladins cave, every imperial drill but I've never been able to find along with every other odd and sod I could need for making jigs etc. I went in for a drill bit and came out with a drill big enough to do string through ferrules
  21. Yep, beautiful. Every time I see work like this, it makes me want to have a go at acoustic building.
  22. I can't morally disagree with that statement, on either part. Cut my tapers out tonight, I've obviously underestimated my ability to setup my bandsaw properly because it was a doddle with a new 1/2" blade, went through quickly and quietly, though it was awkward pushing a > 1m, 2" thick plank through with no support on the other side. Got enough surplus to make a 2-piece guitar neck The next part I was particularly worried about was planing it all nice and square with the no7. But that also turned out to be a doddle - Used my favourite little block plane to knock off the really high spots then made good with the jointer plane. I was expecting these jobs to take me all evening but I had the whole lot done in about an hour. So I can think about glueing the fretboard on next. According to the bongo plans I have, the fretboard is 3mm thick and the entire neck being 15mm thick at the first fret, I can't believe that to be true so I'm going to measure snuffy's bongo at the weekend. But I'm thinking that I'm going to plane the board down to 5mm and stick it in, then go for a 19-20mm neck. Here's the fretboard and massive hunk of limba for the body and here's the golden pheobe top, left side has some white spirit on it, looks reminiscent of the burl on @ScottR's crazy scroll in places More fun tomorrow
  23. Ah dude that's a huge help, I guess I should be ok then, my headstock has the potential to be quite short with the high tuner on the other side. It's getting topped so I can do some chambering and I guess I can go quite thin if it's a neck through. Love the red one
  24. ha, I will leave it to him to do the demoing, my only bass trick is an abysmal rendition of Larry Graham's pow
  25. I'm not I'm also not really feeling the bongo headstock shape against the body design, I'm hoping I can convince him to go for something a bit more like the attitude but with the 4th tuner on the underside. While I've got your attention @Andyjr1515, what's a good target weight to be shooting for here? all bases are heavy to me so not sure what I should do about chambering.
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