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Entry for December 2019's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


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Everything posted by ADFinlayson

  1. You linked to studio.youtube which only you can see, you need to share the youtube link instead. Carve top looks awesome though, nice work
  2. Crikey someone has been busy, What kind of Ash is that? I got myself some American Ash from the local timber yard the other day to go under a walnut cap. I was under the impression it was going to be heavy but I was really surprised how light it was, especially happy as it was only about £30, so I'll be using it again. But that's another build thread I'll be starting soon Builds are looking good, especially looking forward to seeing the les tele
  3. I've had very little luck using a drill press. I tend use a 1.75" - 2" round nose router bit (depending on whether I'm doing speed knobs or thinner metal knobs). I clamp the router to the top of the guitar, set the router to the slowest possible speed and use the depth stop - don't use a small 1000w router or it will chatter and tear maple, and take it very slow. I always do a test run on the offcut from the top too because every piece of wood is different
  4. PRS necks join the body at the penultimate fret for better access to the top of the fretboard so the tenon is extended under the pickup so there is more glueing surface. Their CE/bolt on is the same. But it's not just PRS, Gibson neck tenons also extend under the pickup. Even the Gibson juniors do, the scratch plate is there to hide the neck tenon. Gibson tenons tend to be a lot thinner though so there is less glueing surface, PRS just carry on the taper of the neck to the end of the tenon. Apart from the obvious glueing surface benefit, it's entirely subjective as to what's better. Personally I really like the PRS way and use PRS neck and pocket templates for the basis for most of my builds.
  5. If you buy sperzel tuners, you can take the gear off and switch them around, ie. turn 3x3 tuners into 6x1 or right hand to left hand etc, so you will be able to get any configuration you need. I don't know of any other tuners that you can do this with but I'm sure there are some.
  6. You have, but you are quick to point that out if it's something you saw on youtube, and your advice got me out of trouble several times during my first few builds.
  7. The other thing, what state are you router bits in? After the catastrophe earlier in the year where my router bit chewed the top on a guitar, I got myself a little diamond and some lapping fluid. Just a couple of passes on each flute and my cheap Chinese round nose bits are cutting significantly better.
  8. You will be fine with your router jig, just use the climb cutting technique and start off with a much smaller radius and work your way up so you aren't taking much material away in one go.
  9. Complete agreement here. The internet has given certain types of people a voice. Too much keyboard warring and unsolicited advice from self professed experts - because they've watched a youtube video on it.
  10. Awesome looking neck, I especially like the maple/ebony binding. I'm with @curtisa on the headstock, in that I'm not a fan of the lams from the front. If it was me, I would be sticking an ebony plate on the headstock to tie in with the neck. If you're feeling brave you could carry on your binding into the headstock. Maybe some maple purfling would provide the same affect.
  11. I find a decent high res, square on photo on google, import it into adobe illustrator and trace with the pen tool. For mixing up 2 different guitar designs, I'll bring in another guitar and for example, trace the knobs/switch to give me the pot locations etc. Illustrator is vector based so it can be blown up to any size. I tend to do all that for body design, but use a pre existing neck/pocket template that I like to shape the neck.
  12. Definitely a couple of corkers in this month, I'm glad I haven't got anything to enter
  13. Laminating is definitely your best option here. If you are limited on wood, you could get away with laminating a strip on either side at the heal end just to give you that extra width you need at the widest part of the taper. However, if you do go down that route, you will find it easier to route your truss rod channel before glueing on the laminates so you have a straight light to route along.
  14. Thanks Andy, Some really useful info there. I get on well with Faithful tools, so I'll give them a try
  15. ah yes, sorry I read your reply from my inbox and out of context. Well, I tidied the garage the other day - Tidying up ones toys usually results in being added to the nice list
  16. Eh, what nice list? yes I have a mask on when I’m cutting shell and periodically vac up the dust, I don’t like the idea of having a vac hose attached to the jewellers vice because I’ll lose pieces up the vac
  17. As long as you use a sharp router bit and take very light passes with the router, you should be fine. Taping the area with a good masking tape (Scotch tape etc) and burnishing it down properly is a good idea too.
  18. That's a bit of a mish mash, Strat body shape but no scratch plate required because the control access is from the rear and it's routed for 2 humbuckers instead of single coils. The control cavity looks similar the shape of a Suhr modern and you will need a tremelo bridge of some description.
  19. I expect lapping fluid or anything similar will work like that to lube up the blade, I'll ask Santa for a suitable saw and blades because filing pearl sucks.
  20. @mistermikev interesting, those blades are very different to mine (I expect that is what the problem is) the blades for my coping saw are about 1/8" so do not turn corners well. The link you posted looks like just the ticket so I'll see if I can find an EU equivalent, thanks.
  21. I expect there is a delay because it's loading all the images at once. Short of having some sort of progress bar to say the site is loading, not sure what I can do to actually speed up the loading process other than use low res images which I wouldn't want to do. The pics aren't scanned, some where taken by a photographer who knew what he was doing, the rest are just iphone. But they're hosting on photos.google.com which do all the conversion - they seem to do a good job of keeping good resolution with a smallish file size. I've made a start on inlays, though managed to superglue 3 fingers to a piece of mop on wednesday night, had to get the mrs to rescue me with some acetone, she had a good laugh. Got most of the pieces roughed out with my coping saw - I could really do with a better saw/blade for cutting shell, this one is useless and I end up wasting a lot of material, if anyone can suggest a saw, I'm all ears. Will be filing them all to final dims over the weekend. I've been informed that my wood pile is getting out of control and that I have a problem, told the mrs I would stop hoarding when it's level with the desk
  22. Please put a Ziricote fretboard on that
  23. Asked my 2 year old what she wanted for Christmas the other day and she said "Guitar Daddy" which made my day, shame I didn't ask her a couple of months ago because I could have had a go at making her one. But I got her a 1/4 size classical which should do her for a couple of years. It's not up to much as you can imagine for £40. But I expect it will get some abuse (my first guitar did). Even with how badly finished it is - painted binding, wasn't masked off very well etc, I can't believe that these things can be made so cheaply.
  24. I didn't find dust bunnies to be a huge concern when I was spraying this summer. I was spraying in my garage (which is very dusty) and did see the odd spec landing on the surface, but must have just sanded through them all because it came out dust free by the time I got round to buffing. Apart from one little spec that was, I'm pretty sure it was under the sealer though - I had the guitar laid down flat so I could spray light mist coats of sealer to lock in the colour on the top prior to spraying lacquer with the guitar upright.
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