erikbojerik

To take Pro's recommendation one step further - there are some authorized custom cabinet makers who make a line of bass cabs called Fearless, they are designs taken from the fEarful line and have a lot of the same sonic qualities, namely very good low-end extension and good SPL. Best part, these are built with Kappalite neodymium drivers and foam-core walls, so they are the very lightest you can get for the money. Just Google "Fearless bass cabinets" and you'll get all the hits you want, there's sure to be a cabinet builder in your part of the country.

I will probably build a few of my own this spring/summer, when I can take the epoxy and fiberglass cloth out into the driveway.

Sorry man - I just searched my email (I've saved all my email since 1994....) and it looks like I communicated with this guy only through the forum.

Whiteside and Wolf Tool Technologies are two places that I know of that will make you a custom-order router bit like these - for a price. Let me know if you want to pursue that and I might be able to find the drawings for the ones I had made.

New Fender Roland Ready Strat body, alder with black gloss finish, made in Mexico. Purchased new this year, includes original hardware shown (tremolo bridge, front jack plate (no jack), rear covers and strap buttons. Perfect condition, 10/10 not a scratch on it. Pickup and electronics cavities are coated in black shielding paint, will provide great low-noise environment for whatever pickups you choose.

Electronics, standard jack and 13-pin jack were removed for a custom project.

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649

Brand new Fender Strat neck, maple with rosewood fingerboard, original nut, tuners and string tree included. Perfect 10/10 condition, no scratches or dings, no fret wear. Removed from Fender Roland Ready Strat purchased new this year.

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649

Fender Strat or Tele neck plate with neck attachment screws, perfect condition from Strat bought new this year.

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649

Less than 2 weeks before the show - these are still available.

I've got one of the older style StewMac mitre boxes (with the regular saw guides, not the new roller guides). Still has all the correct Allen wrenches for adjustments, but no saw.

I'll let it go for $70 plus whatever the international shipping costs are (assuming this would go to Ireland...??)

Price drop

$110 each - get them direct from me via Paypal and forget the StubHub fees.

These are advertised on StubHub (ORCH center row N seats 123-124-125) but if anyone here wants them first, you can have 'em. I'll sell them @ $135 each and you can save the StubHub fees.

Pay via PayPal and I'll email you the PDFs of the tickets, print 'em out and show up for a great show. This is a small venue, and 15th row on the floor you'll be blown away.

Orgmorg is correct, the stuff sold as "swamp ash" is normally black ash. And its density can vary tremendously.

The Gold Standard for ultralight swamp ash is 2 pounds per board foot. I have two blanks of the "good stuff" I got on this site from Jim Soloway, they both check in at 2.3 pounds/bf which is exactly what he advertised it to be.

Swede your blank is 3.47 bf, so your density is 2.9 pounds/bf. That is definitely on the heavy side, but is probably still swamp ash rather than northern ash. I think the best you can do is to send it back and ask StewMac to send you a blank that weighs less than 8 pounds - or less than 7.25 pounds if you can get it.

BTW a typical Strat or Tele body is around 1.7 - 1.9 board feet (depending on the routing), so if you wind up with a body that is 4 pounds or under you cannot do better than that with swamp ash.

Ah OK - I didn't realize the pump was a ventui thing until I read the Harbor Freight description.

Those bags are a steal though! I have a Bed, Bath & Beyond about 20 min away - and am now wondering if they carry a bag large enough to do what I want, which is to laminate acoustic guitar sides!

Cool!

What sort of pressure do you need at the high-pressure side of the vacuum pump?

One would think that guitars built (and perhaps wood obtained) prior to the 2008 amendment would be excused, but there is no language stating this clearly and so (unfortunately) it is up to US Customs and whether or not you get an agent that happens to be a zealot!

The crazy thing about this Lacey Act amendment - and it application to Gibson - is that India approved the shipments to Gibson and LMI, but the US is claiming that India's interpretation of World Trade Organization export codes is not correct. Basically Uncle Sam telling India they are wrong in how they export their own material! Talk about government overreach....

Lots of chatter going on now about the US Fish & Wildlife Service raids on Gibson, and whether certain woods are legal to import under the Lacey Act (written in 1900, amended in 2008).

Summarized below:

News story on Gibson raid

One word.

Tru Oil.

Love this guitar every time I see it

(1) If you can still smell the chemicals coming from the finish, it's not done yet.

(2) If you can dent the finish with your fingernail, its not ready to buff yet (select an out-of-the-way place like the back of the headstock to test this).

Most people think when they're done with the woodwork and assembly, they're almost done with the guitar. If you're planning on an oil finish, that's mostly true. But in reality, if you're doing your own painting and/or clear coat finishing, you're about 50% done - in other words, for a good spray finish you can end up spending almost as much time on the finish as the whole rest of the instrument.

Even after doing your homework, so much of finishing is trial and error, everyone who has stuck with it and strived to learn good finishing technique has probably stripped 2-3 times as many finishes as they've buffed out.

I do all mine this way, with various roundovers depending on the thickness of the neck (3/4", 7/8" or 1"). You can also get bits called table edge bits that are more of a section of an oval. There are also companies that will make you a custom roundover with any shape you like, but be prepared to shell out $300 or more.

IMO this is best done with an overarm router with the blades facing down. I tried it once on a router table, and it did not go well.

How are the acoustic tones? I have been pondering to snag one off eBay for awhile now, to transplant into a standard electric so that I can get both tones out of one guitar for live situations. I AM @n@l about the electric tone but not so much about the acoustic tone if it is good enough.

But I'm also pondering the acoustic 700 series which sports more models and a nylon-string patch as well, but would be a more difficult transplant - and is more expensive.

Then there's the Roland VG-99 but now we're talking bigger buck$.

OK so AllParts apparently had the radius wrong on their site - the Schaller Floyd they offer is 12".

They are 12"(we have updated the information) and not "knock offs".

Thank you,

- Allparts Music Corp.

[P] (713) 466-6414

Reply from StewMac:

Hi Erik,

Thank you for contacting us. We have measured the saddles for this bridge using our radius gauges, and they read 14".

If you have any other questions or comments, please contact us.

Best regards,

Casey Davis

Customer Service

Stewart-MacDonald

www.stewmac.com

Still wondering why their "Schaller" FR radius differs from that on the Schaller product page (12").

GDP-USA lists the radius of their Original Floyd Rose trem at 15".

The official FR website gives the Original FR radius as 12".

This is maddening.

A lot of the FR knock-offs are 14" radius aren't they?

It would seem to me either the StewMac & AllParts catalogs are wrong, or they are trying to pass off the cheapo's as Schaller product.

OK looking at Schaller Floyd Rose trems.

AllParts says the bridge radius is 14".

StewMac says the radius is 14".

Warmoth says the radius is 12".

What is it, really?

Ansil what do you like about the RMC stuff over (say) Graphtech or Baggs?