Jump to content

Voting for February 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - VOTE HERE!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About HSlash

  • Rank
  1. Yes I was planning to have the pickup sit on the tenon! What do you mean offer up? I was going to use a pickup ring on the final thing
  2. Thank you! Nice to know I'm getting the hang of it haha, I am very excited for build 2 where I can just go wild and not quadruple check each step.
  3. I'll be hammering the frets in Onto the next problem to think about - the tenon joint. I have attached an image of my current dimensions, would appreciate if anyone can just skim over it to see if they are sensible (I made them myself, no template).
  4. What about fretting the fretboard? Do people do that before gluing on or afterwards? I'm going to do it after, though I see many do it before... Wonder why
  5. What would I do without you guys! Now thats sorted Next, I was thinking about gluing the fretboard ontop of the neck blank, then shaping the neck and headstock. However as with all things guitar-related, I have seen mixed opinions about this. Others say finish (fret & inlay etc) the fretboard separately, then glue it on at the end. I can't see whether this would make any difference... Am I missing something? Another thing people seem passionate about, is covering the truss rod cavity (e.g. with tape or a thin veneer etc). I don't intend on doing either haha
  6. I've made some DIY wood filler with sawdust and wood glue, and it seems to get rid of the rattle when I put the flat side up... So maybe I'll use flat-up after all!
  7. Thanks everyone! I've dug a little deeper and seems like it shouldn't make any noticable difference. I'll sleep on it but for now, I am quite tempted to just leave it flat side down. I will also go out and grab some silicon tomorrow
  8. Useful, thank you! But would it matter if I had the truss rod with the flat facing down? It seems to be a more snug fit that way, without any rattle. I'll think about access later
  9. Me again! I've started actual work on my materials, and I have a question about the truss rod (its probably stupid)... I'm using https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Truss_Rods/StewMac_Red_Low_Profile_Truss_Rod.html And I was wondering which way to insert the truss rod? Should the circular bit at the top be facing up towards the fretboard, or facing down away from it? I'm not sure whether it would matter at all, as its dual action. Also, how long do people usually make the access slot ? I've attached a picture with it in the upward position
  10. I hear you, I've bought some spare wood and I spent yesterday practising routing the cavities and headstock angles etc I've also marked up (most of) my real wood now New Q: pick-up placement So the neck goes right up against the fretboard, but what about the bridge? Searching online just confused me with harmonic overtones and nodes
  11. I guess I'm just a little worried about messing it up and the neck being stuck in there... Plus PRS's are usually bolt-on anyways. But you're right, a set neck would be stronger. How comes you route a pocket, and then fit the neck - rather than the opposite? (make a neck then route the pocket) Do you have standard neck pocket dimensions you like to use?
  12. Thank you AD, you've been really helpful (your guitar is gorgeous) & thanks SR I think I've run into a new problem whilst modelling the neck pocket (see image). I'm not sure I have enough 'bite' in the body to keep it stable with my measurements... Also, I wanted this to be a bolt-on but I'm not sure theres enough wood either. The fretboard is 5mm, neck is 18mm and 'stack' of the heel is 12mm. The guitar body is only 44.5mm thick I haven't yet added the neck angle, but that will be taken out of the pocket, so make it even deeper Any advice?
  13. Neck angle and tenon tick, headstock angle tick... Thanks a lot for helping me clear these up! A few more Qs if you don't mind: Where does a heel usually start on a PRS? and how thick should it be? - I know it varies and thicker = more stable, but I just want to get a feel for the 'norm'. My current thinking is to start it around the 19th fret (as it joins at start of 23rd) and make it ~20mm (so full thickness, 20 neck, +5 fretboard, + another 20 for stacked heel). This also means my tenon will be 20. Pickup cavities... I'm still not 100% clear (I've overthought it). How much do pickups normally 'stick out' the body? I know the bridge is usually much higher, but is this due to cavity depth of just adjustment? Also, do the cavities need to follow the angle of the top for it not to look weird? Thanks again
  14. Oh that makes perfect sense, the picture really helps! I'll go with the first method to angle the top. Do you prefer to angle your neck pocket/heel/use a shim to get the same neck angle (to make it flush)? I'm just trying to get a feel for the best method
  • Create New...