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Macarel31

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About Macarel31

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    Sherbrooke
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    Canada

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  1. yes, blue stain with raised grain by black wood filler...
  2. I can confirm what you says Bizman62. I can feel with my finger the little droplets. I'm also able to see them. The real question for me now is how to go back with this product?
  3. No, i didn't shake the oil I know that it's not recommended for polyurethane because it cause bubbles. What's the risk when it's not shaken well?
  4. Hi, the oil used is the "penetration oil finish" created and provided by Crimson Guitars". It was recommended to me by several amateur luthier. It look like tru-oil. I'm a litlle confused because between each coats, i waited many more time that specified by the recommandations (several days even if the recommandations specified 4 / 6 hours between coats). In addition, I was careful to remove all the oil excess until nothing appeared on the towels. I used the tru-oil on my neck. It's the same process and i didn't had this problem. Honestly, I'm not sure I want to reapply this product if I can go back. It look like that the product come froma bad batch. I contacted the provider and for the moment i have no answers.
  5. Hi, yes, for every coat i wipe all the excess when it became tacky. That's why i'm surprised that it's still sticky. Concerning the solvent. i mean apply the oil. The solvent contained in the oil dissolves the layer below. Then i can wipe off and remove some of the oil that does not dry out. I have heard about this method before for the same problem as me with Danish oil. I don't know if this can work with my case.
  6. Hi, i used an oil finish on my guitar and the three first coats goes well. I let dry several days between each coats. But since the fourth coat, after 15 days, the surface of the guitar stay sticky. I'm even be able to mark the finish just with little taps with the flat of my nails!!! Do I have to wait longer for drying (the last few weeks have been very wet), reapply oil and wipe off immediately (reactivate the solvent) or sand everything and start again? Thank you for your help!!! Best regards,
  7. Hello everybody, First, thank you for all your answers. I see that the subject has drifted on the accuracy of the terms. So to clarify, yes I am French but i live in Canada since 10 years. I am neither a luthier nor a woodworker. The terms that I use, I learned them by doing research on the internet. When i search on the internet "raising grain" or "enhanced grain", I found what I want. So I considered that these words are the right ones for that. I’m agree with you, in the internet, there is a lot of people that are using approximative terms but a deal with it. For example, after several weeks of research on internet, I don’t know the difference between the terms stain and dye… As people says, a picture is worth a thousand words, so please find here pictures that show that I want to do. But honestly, i’m sure that everybody here has already understand that I wanted to do. So i come back to the first subject of my post. First, I want to explain why this post and add some precisions. I prepared the wood with the following process: I sanded the wood with those successive grits: 180 / 220 / 320. Then I wetted the wood surface with a humid cloth, let it dry and sand with 320 grit. I did it a second time. Why I’m worried about water-based grain filler. First after several weeks of research about who to improve grain appearance, I founded a lot of different methods. Is the one I chose the right one? I don’t know. The second reason is that timber mart grain filler is a water-based grain filler. I want to dye after and I am afraid that the dye dissolves the dry grain filler (on the package there is specified that it’s possible to reconstitute the product by adding water). So, I preferred to ask before. I finally tried timber mart grain filler with back stain on a remaining piece of swamp ash and it work but… the grain filler smells horrible. it looks like burnt rubber of something like that. It’s surprising for a water-based product. Another thing that I saw, it’s that the timber mart grain filler is very compact and it take a lot of water to obtain a malleable paste. So, your answers seem to confirm that I choose a good way to obtain what I want. Thank you all.
  8. Hi, I'm starting the finish for my seamp ash guitar body and i want to raise the grain and dye after (blue). I will stain the wood filler with black before to apply to the wood. I want to know if there is a difference between using a water based woof filler (such as timber mart) or a latex wood filler? Did the process stay the same: wood filler first and dye after? thank you for your answers!!!
  9. Hi, i'm finishin my guitar body and i want to enhance the wood grain (swamp ash) with a black grain filler. After, i'll apply a blue dye. I made a lot od research about the preparation of the wood and most of the people sand the wood sucessively with 150, 180 and 220 grit. However, when i look the wood into the light i can see little scratches made by the 220 sand paper. Is this a problem? I already finished the neck and the sanding was with an higher range for the sand paper (600/800). thank you for your help.
  10. first, i'm curious. I've never tried a neck finished with tru-oil and i heard a lot of good thing about this. I have a guitar and a bass but i think that the necks are finished with poly. So i would like to test a neck with tru oil. The second point is that it's nor necessary to have a space ventilated such as for nitro or poly. I didn't have a ventilated place. So tru oil is very convenient for me. Acrylic finish can be less toxic than poly or nitro but i didn't found a lot of personne that use this kind of stuff for the neck. So i don't know if it's really the best choice for the neck and what specific product i can used.
  11. Hi, I’m building my first own guitar and I bought an unfinished maple guitar neck (neck and fretboard). To finish it, I would like to use tru oil. However, maple fretboard needs to be protected by an waterproof layer to avoid dirty stain on the wood. Tru oil is not a real oil because it became hard but can it provide a sufficient protective layer for maple? If it’s not the case, can apply tru oil just on the neck part and use acrylic or polyurethane lacquer for the fretboard? Personally, I don’t seed any difficulties but perhaps I’m too confident. Has anyone ever done that? Thank you for your answers.
  12. Hi, I'm looking for polyurethane instead of Nitro because it's less toxic. However, i'm not sure that it's easy to get Nitrocellulose in Canada because of it's toxicity. In addition, Nitro turn to yellow. I Think that poly too but it take more time. Acrylic don't turn to yellow but i have doubts about its wood protection properties.
  13. Hi everybody, I'm from Canada and i'm finishing my first electric guitar (hope that it's not the last!!!). I looking for a satin or semi gloss lacquer for my guitar solid body. However, since it's my first guitar, I don't have all the material to make one completely. I will equip myself gradually with the next guitars. For the finishing, i don't have a spray gun so i have to deal with lacquer in spray can. I'm looking for clear (satin or semi-gloss) polyurethane lacquer (no-yellowing) in spray can which is available in hardware store in canada. I find this: Varathane Diamond Wood Finish - Outdoor (Water, Satin) available in home Hardware https://www.homedepot.ca/product/varathane-diamond-wood-finish-outdoor-water-satin-aerosol-/1000423123 Has anyone ever used this product for a guitar finishing? Does anyone know of another product that meets my requirements easily available in Canada? otherwise, I also found an acrylic lacquer that meets my requirements however I do not know it's good as a guitar protection. It does not turn yellow but it does not turn out to be hard when dry. However, it seems that it has already been used as a finish. For information, I don't want the discussion to slip on the influence of lacque on the sound. I have already found enough discussion that turns on this topic where everyone have his opinion on nitro and poly laquer. I especially want to have advice or feedback on the practical aspect. Thanks a lot for your answers.
  14. Hi everybody, i'm building my own electric guitar. I have some questions about neck installation, especialy for the drilling. 1- for the solid body, i have to drill the holes larger than the screws but how many? 2- for the neck it's the inverse, i have to drill holes (to avoid wood rupture) smaller than the screws but how many? Thank you for you answers.
  15. Hi everybody, I have two unfinished necks; one maple neck with rosewood fretboard and one maple neck with maple fretboard. First, I made some research on the internet to get some information on the neck finishing and for the fretboard this is not clear. For the neck, it’s pretty well documented. To resume, there is three way: use nitrocellulose (as Fendre), use polyurethane lacquer or use oil (tru-oil, Danish oil). However, concerning the fretboard, it’s isn’t clear. What I found is that for the rosewood fretboard, the is no treatment. Only citrus oil, just to preserve the wood. For the maple fretrboard, there is a lot of things. True or not, I don’t really know. - First, the sweaty hands can change the color of fretboard in the long run. So laquer is recommended. For oil finish, some people says that oil doen’t protect from moisture od change of color. However, it’s possible to finish maple neck with oil. So I don’t understand why not fretboard. - Then, for laquer application on fretboard, what is the process? How many coats and should i sand between layers? - If it’s possible to finish fretboard with oil, How many coats and should i sand between layers? Thank you a lot for your answers.
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