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Urumiko

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Urumiko last won the day on May 5

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About Urumiko

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  1. Urumiko

    Metal for inlays

    Well the tin plated steel doesnt seem to have any memory/springyness, its very maliabe. Makbe i should use that.. It doesnt spring back in the same way an aluminium drinks can does say.... And come to think of it i could totally cut up fizzy drinks cans rather than buy aluminium sheet... lol
  2. hmmm.. yes, I know. To be honest im kind of ok with the thickness asthetically, I'm almost to the point where i can get a neck pocket cut and will have the basic neck shape. I feel like when i get to the point where the neck is test fited in the body i can reasess. I can guarentee though that the wenge will tear out/have slivers fly off at the edges where the grain runs paralel with the edge. .......Come to think of it i do now own a planer thicknesser machine dont i The back is thick enough that i could put it through that, though i think id need some kind of prescription sedative to remain calm attempting that...
  3. haha thank you, yes it does but we all know what happens when people try and do everything on the first build Does that mean you will be stealing my thinder? Palmwood build off in GOTM? lol If either of you really wanted a look at the grain etc i could probably stick a small offcut sample in the post for you. Nothing big enough to use but it would give you a hands on idea of what it's like. YES. they do, You are right about the shards sticking in your hand when its rough, although when its sanded back its actually very smooth. Its naturally very oily too so it'll need attacked with thinners before gluing. I've exmined a few threads relating to stablising spalted woods, I reackon the brush on wood hardners designed to deal with rot would do the trick but they are acetone based and would prob wreak havoc with the final finish. I did see someone suggest soaking in diluted sealer or PVA for a few hours then drying.. sounds interesting. The best thing is probably just a nice thick poly dinish but sod that lol.
  4. Urumiko

    Metal for inlays

    It will certainly be devsive, Its not to protect the wood, though protecting the inlay ill be an advantage. I just thnk a nice piano black/gloss type finish will work well with the contrasting colours and inlay a bit like this I disagree on this point as if you think about it the metal will be maliable/bendy so can be cut flat then bent to the fretboard radius =). Im toying with the isea of using a franslucent material for the prism to be honest. No i dont think i mean galvenised with zinc. I mean actual tin. At least i think its a tin alloy. I was recomended it for mocking up amplifier chasis as you can solder directly to it and it will stick. (solder soesnt stick to most metals easily). Nice, Any idea what thickness would have the right consistency. i.e can be bent by hand but stiff enough that if pushed i could file it?
  5. Urumiko

    Any am techs on here?

    Im just curious. ive been learning to tweek and build valve amps for a while now, i keep thinking i need to join a forum to get help with thiso, I was just wondering if there are any techies on here. I was also wondering if there would be much appetite for breaking the electronics section of the forum in to 3 sections, in guitar electronics, pedals and outboard effects, and amps?
  6. Urumiko

    looking for tips on nitro over fretboard

    i like ash's idea of crowning in to the nitro if its harder.
  7. I've already fallen in to one classic pitfall of making my 1st guitar too heavy, im determined not to have a baseball bat for a neck
  8. I should say I've never finished a guitar before. I'm currently building a guitar with the folowing woods: Wenge body sycamore cap (I intend to stain this with black/grey) Palm wood neck, laminated with wenge and maple. I intend to leave most of the woods their natural colour and finish in a gloss nitro. I will have a multitude of inlays including on the front and rear of the body, some made from coloured wood some made from resin or mother of pearl. Firstly, Should I be applying some kind of sanding sealer to my body? do i need a special one for use on dark woods? or is this incompatible with staining? thoild i do it before inlays? Most importantly, the palm wood neck i fear wil be really prone to chunks of wood being chipped out on the headstock wings. The "pith" of the wood is quite soft and crumbly. Its quite likely to have small holes in it also. The wood can be sanded to a quite nice flat sheen, but im wondering if there is some kind of hardener/grain filler/resin that might be worth applying to reduce the chances of chipping without spoiling the natural/gloss finish? Cheers Dave.
  9. Urumiko

    Metal for inlays

    I'd like to create the right hand portion of the below inlay from sheet metal but have no knowledge of what is liekly to corode, or what thickness will be workable etc. I'm looking for suggestions from those more experienced with metals than i. I am on a really tight budget and I do already happen to have some sheets of thin tin plated steel lying arround. I am wondering if they would be suitable. I am plannng on laquerig the fretboard with high gloss nitro.. I dont know if this would adhere to the metal ok?
  10. Urumiko

    looking for tips on nitro over fretboard

    I saw a crimson guitars video on this, where he said basically nitro over the whole fretboard, frets and all, then scalpel around the frets and the nitro peels right off. That's what I plan to do.
  11. My fave thing so far is that it looks from the pics like someones turned their dining room in to a workshop... wife be damned! lol...
  12. oh.. thats handy... what a timesaver.. glad i finaly red this
  13. Latest vid is up. Its so excitng when you make those big cuts that get you 1 step closer to the final shape.
  14. Cheers ash, Only place i think i'll differ from that is i want to carve the neck before doing the inlay etc.. I dont want to waste my time on inlay only to trash the necl later ^_^. THe thing im dreading most other than the palmwood tear out right now is just actually trying to get things mm accurate. I keep trying to mark up the heel end to get it neck pocket ready and ending up 1mm out. not that it matters too much i guess. Oh by the way. Your red guitar gt an "OOOOOHHHH thats prety from my other half". lol
  15. Thanks mate. Yes these are all things im considering. When i said fender style, i didnt mean fender style. I meant as you say a lip at the end. I've not seen this done before on a guitar though. Have you ever seen this on a production model? Yes i am considering veneers, I'm guessing they also might afford me the luxury of possibly applying inlays to the veneer before sticking it on.
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