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Urumiko

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Everything posted by Urumiko

  1. Check this out though... My stepfather (whos shed i currently use). Has a garage/glorified barn that he rents to work on his cars. Hes downscaling a bit so is keen to let me set up in there with him. Won't be for a while yet but when that comes about I'll be able to set up some decent bench space, probably build an extended table to sit the router and table saw in etc. Get all my tools set out. Dust extraction... etc etc.. lovely... Its probably a bit damp for wood storage but otherwise pretty awesome. I'm very lucky. Baby steps fo rnow though
  2. Haha, yes I agree although the nature of the wood really does make tearout pretty inevitable. It was fine with the wenge which is a much harder wood. Still willing to post a sample of the palmwood to anyone that wants it. I did find the router very bitey. This was my first time using the 1/2 inch router, previousl having used the 1/4". I had the speed on minimum to avoid scorching, although i do wonder if higher speed might result in a better cut. Kind of liek a "whipping the table cloth out quickly" effect? All I know is im expecting when i come to build a 2nd guitar from standard woods im expecting to find it a breeze by comparrison :).
  3. aye so.... this is why palm wood is a nightmare. preeeety unroutable... This guitar is gonna end up 100% dust and glue XD It is exciting though when things start looking the right shape though! I weighed in all my wood as it currently is it comes to 9.2lbs
  4. Yeah I just meant If the lumber came from south america, there might be further savings manufacturing in mexico. No hope for me. I live next to the sea just south of scotland. Damp salty wood anyone?
  5. That's interesting although I sincerely doubt quality was a primary influencing factor. It must have made a lot of financial sense. Where do/did they get their lumber/metalwork from?
  6. It's the same the world over right now dude. Hopefully it'll snap back the other way sooner or later.
  7. Hmm im not sure, Perhaps in the late 80s shipping was more costly, and the the world was a bigger place. Being able to situate 200 miles from your primary factory and ship parts, product, and personnel back and forth quickly and cheaply while saving all that money probably made a lot of sense. Epiphone was already a USA based company by the time they became the cheap gibson.. I don't know if anywhere else in the world would have had the demand, and such cheap labour so close to such a wealthy country at that time? japan/china maybe?
  8. something about the colour scheme and the diamonds i think.
  9. im not sure what i mean either.. something about the headstock just made my mind go to that era of design.. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/markoplnen/art-deco-guitars/?autologin=true
  10. my immediate creative flow headed off in a more art deco direction
  11. I don't want to get too political, but what effect do you think his mexico tariff might have? particularly on fender?
  12. Haha yes you have a point with the acetone, I need to put in an order for some. It's recommended for the palmwood also. And probably the wenge. I've come away from the shed with what looks like henna tattoos before. Yes i really wanted to do everything on this build. I am very much in favour of CNC fretboards and inlays, I think if i could get the right software I'd have quite a bit of fun programming inlays in, but also so i can cut fret slots that do not reach the edge of the board. if i do manage to expand to a larger work space i'll be looking at sticking linux on a crippled old laptop and getting a cnc at some point no doubt when they can be had for a price i can afford. I can still convince myself its DIY if i program the CNC =). I note there is a CNC "tutorial" on this very site although it seems to leave out a lot of nescecary info and the more complete packages from cnc companies are still up in that semi pro price bracket at the moment.
  13. Latest vid covering fretboard woes is up.
  14. Preview for you (raw footage some out of focus). From what i can see the near side is actually perfectly acceptable to put binding over. The far side looks a lot worse with a more consistent gap. I think this is because the bottom of the fretboard actually has a flight taper on that edge.
  15. I could be entirely wrong but i was led to believe by a veteran amp tech that you can sell on home brew electronics if you get them PAT tested. I'm not sure how we got on to home wiring but changing ones own light fittings and switches etc is fairly common practice in the UK. Its nigh on impossible to prove who did what anyway.
  16. yeah it was just gorilla pva based glue i used. It wasn't the super glue i was worried about. it was the palm wood itself ripping huge chunks out. that and my lack of skill at actually getting things flat. I really am inclined to leave it if the bond is strong and cover the edge with binding. I.m wondering if in future running my neck blank over the edge planer machine and putting my fret board through the planer thicknesser might help
  17. Hmm well.. I had a bit of an iffy day today. I planed a taper in to my fretboard. no issues there. Always a pleasure. Then but before coming to glue i realised my board could rock back and forth. I realised both my board and neck black were not perfectly flat, I had a go at flattening them with my planes, but after gluing there's still a bit of a gap in places Quite disheartening. I was leaning towards rebate routing and adding binding anyways so i think i'll pull it back. But quite disheartening none the less. No point trying to take the board off to fix it. It will just destroy my blank. I've seeped superglue in to the gaps for strength. I've also noticed ive somehow ended up with a slight forward bow in my neck after clamping.. It never ends
  18. Well the tin plated steel doesnt seem to have any memory/springyness, its very maliabe. Makbe i should use that.. It doesnt spring back in the same way an aluminium drinks can does say.... And come to think of it i could totally cut up fizzy drinks cans rather than buy aluminium sheet... lol
  19. hmmm.. yes, I know. To be honest im kind of ok with the thickness asthetically, I'm almost to the point where i can get a neck pocket cut and will have the basic neck shape. I feel like when i get to the point where the neck is test fited in the body i can reasess. I can guarentee though that the wenge will tear out/have slivers fly off at the edges where the grain runs paralel with the edge. .......Come to think of it i do now own a planer thicknesser machine dont i The back is thick enough that i could put it through that, though i think id need some kind of prescription sedative to remain calm attempting that...
  20. haha thank you, yes it does but we all know what happens when people try and do everything on the first build Does that mean you will be stealing my thinder? Palmwood build off in GOTM? lol If either of you really wanted a look at the grain etc i could probably stick a small offcut sample in the post for you. Nothing big enough to use but it would give you a hands on idea of what it's like. YES. they do, You are right about the shards sticking in your hand when its rough, although when its sanded back its actually very smooth. Its naturally very oily too so it'll need attacked with thinners before gluing. I've exmined a few threads relating to stablising spalted woods, I reackon the brush on wood hardners designed to deal with rot would do the trick but they are acetone based and would prob wreak havoc with the final finish. I did see someone suggest soaking in diluted sealer or PVA for a few hours then drying.. sounds interesting. The best thing is probably just a nice thick poly dinish but sod that lol.
  21. It will certainly be devsive, Its not to protect the wood, though protecting the inlay ill be an advantage. I just thnk a nice piano black/gloss type finish will work well with the contrasting colours and inlay a bit like this I disagree on this point as if you think about it the metal will be maliable/bendy so can be cut flat then bent to the fretboard radius =). Im toying with the isea of using a franslucent material for the prism to be honest. No i dont think i mean galvenised with zinc. I mean actual tin. At least i think its a tin alloy. I was recomended it for mocking up amplifier chasis as you can solder directly to it and it will stick. (solder soesnt stick to most metals easily). Nice, Any idea what thickness would have the right consistency. i.e can be bent by hand but stiff enough that if pushed i could file it?
  22. Im just curious. ive been learning to tweek and build valve amps for a while now, i keep thinking i need to join a forum to get help with thiso, I was just wondering if there are any techies on here. I was also wondering if there would be much appetite for breaking the electronics section of the forum in to 3 sections, in guitar electronics, pedals and outboard effects, and amps?
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