Jump to content

Entry for August 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

Bizman62

Veteran Member
  • Content Count

    1,833
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Bizman62 last won the day on August 5

Bizman62 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

710 Excellent

About Bizman62

  • Rank
    Veteran Member
  • Birthday May 29

Profile Information

  • Location
    Joensuu, North Karelia
  • Interests
    Removing sawdust to reveal a guitar-ish item.
  • Country Flag
    Finland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The wet weeks sure may have an effect to the curing time. Just for trying to better figure out what's happening, did you wipe all the excess off after applying each coat? My experience with oiling has allowed a daily reapply without issues but I did wipe the coat off immediately when it started to feel tacky. If you have just splashed a new coat every few days it will "never" dry - ever found an ancient oil can or a tube of gear lube in a shed with the grease on the outside still being tacky after a decade or more? There's been questions like yours before, I recall someone trying the solvent only. If memory serves me right it was not a success... But if you know the solvent, applying it liberally to the oil and splashing yet a new coat might soften the layers below enough to be wiped off. Worth trying before scraping?
  2. Nice to see you challenging yourself again! I wonder if... ... you could have cut 1.6 mm slices off each board? ... you could have used the scraper for thicknessing the strips? ... you looked for binding/purfling strips of suitable colours?
  3. River tables are so last season, this one is something different! At first glance I thought it's a bookmatched piece of burl with an interesting coloured sapwood or heartwood. That sure looks organic instead of man made!
  4. I believe it too. It looks like a much loved yet well maintained one instead of a Sahara-dry collection of Valleys of Doom. The binding also looks like gently aged. Good job at making your memories alive!
  5. Buying tools like that would be just a waste of money. Well done!
  6. Basically yes. The other stuff is for professionals who know where and what to buy. But if you go to a hardware store and ask for plywood, they most likely sell you baltic birch, coated or bare. We have a plywood store here and most of their stuff is also baltic birch. Their variations include the textured or smooth brown phenol film coated, the yellow film coated "farm" version or just the bare wood plywood. Plus the coarse dirt cheap construction plywood made of thick fir veneers. They've told me that on occasion they've had some imported special order stuff but it's rare.
  7. Heh, never heard about birch surface plywood before! Our birch version is the baltic, 1 mm/layer. Easy to figure out the thickness by counting the layers! I should buy a film coated piece of 12 mm for my trailer. -The one with thicker veneers is of spruce and holes in the veneers are a norm as long as they don't match on the layers.
  8. At which point this thread turned to be about love?
  9. It depends... It took me several decades to figure out that there's other than the high grade birch plywood available. The coarse fir stuff is for house building and it's stored in the backyard barn, the birch can be found indoors.
  10. By "baltic birch" I suppose you mean the plywood? If so, I can't see any issues. It's made of hardwood veneers combined with glue and it doesn't disintegrate. Why would adding some more hardwood and glue change that? Compared to solid wood plywood is cross laminated which means only half of the wood at the edges is end grain so the sunk glue joints should be plenty strong. Heck, as guitar builders we should know how strong the smallest glue joints can be as they can resist hundreds of lbs of string tension! The acoustic bridge should be one of the seven wonders of the modern world!
  11. The correct bridge string break placement is twice the distance from the edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. There's no exceptions of that rule. Allow some adjustment range both ways, in average the scale is 1 mm shorter for the high E and 2-3 mm longer for the low E, fine tuned from there according to the strings you use - tension, gauge, tuning etc.
  12. Planing 1.3 inches off isn't too easy either plus there'll be a lot of unusable waste. Agreed, the block in question isn't a fancy example of quadruple A grade tonewood. Still an inch thick board of it can be used in many ways other than shavings. My cutting boards are all thinner than that...
  13. @blashyrkh sounds like you're going to find a couple of muscles you didn't know to exist... These conversations tend to spin off pretty easily. It's not because of the community being rude and stealing your threads, it's just the nature of freely flowing ideas which may even return to the original subject in a refined form. Bear with us...
  14. That reminds me of @Urumiko... He was building something like that, wasn't he?
  15. A solid body 3.5" thick LesPaul... For weight lifters only!
×
×
  • Create New...