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Entry for September 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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Bizman62 last won the day on September 17

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About Bizman62

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    Removing sawdust to reveal a guitar-ish item.
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  1. Lately I've noticed a slight concern about myself getting old. Then again, it might be the cereals I've had for breakfast...
  2. Just to keep this thread alive... Sanded away the couple of bumps and humps I found during the week. Isn't it funny how your fingers can't find them after a few hours of sanding? I would understand that for the right hand, but the left one isn't that active, only holding the guitar on the table so it doesn't wander all around and get all scratched on the bottom side. After having sanded the reshaped areas to 800 with Abranet, and finding deeper scratches to be take care of coarser grits and resanding to 800 I finally started reoiling the sanded parts with Crimson Penetrating Oil... Only to find more scratches! But as @Andyjr1515 said, when it looks OK, stop. So I left the few minor spots as is, hoping they'd go away with the oil. Also I didn't bother trying to level the couple of nicks on the bottom side. The roasted alder is so soft any dust particle on the table will make more of them anyway! I also reshaped the slanted edge of the headstock to reveal the 0.55 mm flamed birch veneer evenly:
  3. If you tried to explain "aberration" to me showing those images, I would not understand. Doesn't that mean that the finish is by no means too thick to kill the sound? Matt will be a happy fellow!
  4. Don't know about the pro's, but... I saw a pro answer that question on some video long ago. If memory serves me right, your idea is not far from what he suggested. One way would be to mask the neck and apply a pretty heavy layer of clear on the fretboard edge. Then you can freely paint the neck including the fretboard edge. When you've got the paint good enough, simply scrape the edge to reveal the clear and polish it the normal way.
  5. You certainly have what it takes to make tutorial videos! Substituting the filing hiss of the inlay pieces with a longish musical piece indicated perfectly the time needed for such fine job. This time the volumes were again pretty nicely balanced. The music wasn't too loud for my sensitive(ish) ears. Cutting the inlays with the band saw raised a couple of questions. First, how fine was the blade? And second, do you think that could be done with a laser cutter? The small ones seem to be very inexpensive second hand.
  6. The best way often is what feels the most comfortable to you. Sometimes changing or at least modifying your method might be advisable, though. A router against a fence is the power tool to use for straight lines. For smaller inlay work a Dremel type router is most likely best. Cutting the outlines with a very sharp scalpel or X-acto knife will keep the edges from tearing. You can also do the cutting with various size chisel. Again, cutting the outlines is important. With chisels you can use the cut-to-cut method: Cut the outline, then carve in an angle from the inside of the inlay so you get a half V groove with a vertical outer wall. Rinse and repeat until you're at the desired depth. Then simply carve the inside flush with the bottom of the groove. For that even a free hand Dremel router is accurate enough.
  7. I've seen a video of an elderly chap doing it similarly, before fretting. It seems to work well especially when you have binding on the fretboard. Supposedly even if you have to file the end a tad shorter when in place the shape will still look good and feel nice.
  8. Bummer! However, save what's left. You may be able to use what's left for covers like over the truss rod end or the LP switch. If you're very cautious you may even be able to cleave part of it to make a bookmatched headstock veneer!
  9. There's several ways to do that. If you have a good hand plane, simply plane it flat. Measure often. That's how it was done before power tools. If you have a router and a flat surface to work on, put rails on either side of the blank, adjust the router bit according to the lowest spot and route the blank flat. If that works for table tops, a small blank is no biggie. See image. If you have a table saw with a reliable fence, attach the blank to a larger piece and run it between the blade and the fence. Be extra cautious that the blade and fence are 90 deg against the table and that nothing wobbles. The right grain direction is also important to prevent tearout. StewMac sell a thing called Safe-T Planer for a drill press. Susie Gardener made a video review a few years ago. If it were as useful as they say, I guess everyone would have one. In any of the above, masking tape and super glue are your friends.
  10. Guess I have to make a template... A cardboard one will do fine for that purpose. Thanks for the idea.
  11. Dang! Should I add another veneer? Now that's clever!
  12. I'd call that the right way when you're building the instrument. For repairs, squeezing your arm inside the guitar may be necessary. Then again, all the wiring routes and placing of the components including potential screw holes will be there at the time if someone has to reseat something.
  13. Toki is still missing from my list. But I liked Suntory CHITA pretty much. Yesterday I decided to eat the Jack Daniels chocolate (Swiss). Fortunately it was only 3.5 oz... I guess it may have got a bit rancid although it wasn't too much over the best before date. Anyhoo, that was a disappointment, the filling had no flavour of anything, just sugar.
  14. I know it's not a gigging amp but for practicing it's perfect. Using backing tracks is a no-brainer and if you choose the Bluetooth version you can connect to YouTube without having to fiddle with earphone connectors which have become somewhat of a rarity in smart phones.
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