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Everything posted by Bizman62

  1. There's too much to love in each of them! But I guess I can choose by applying several criteria...
  2. Every scratch you can find tends to show even better with every layer of finish so it is a problem if your aim is a perfect finish. The most important thing when sanding is to avoid pressure. Compare it to mowing the lawn instead of using a steamroller. If you press too hard the dust will roll to hard lumps much bigger than the grit of the paper, making scratches.
  3. For a test piece that was way too beautiful for ending up as firewood but what else can you do if it doesn't do what it was meant to? Except adding a hook for hanging on the wall and installing a $2 clock mechanism...
  4. Ummm... After re-reading this I paid more attention to the measurements being in inches and noticed I was talking about the thickness rather than the height. The advice still applies but I think it's time to do some high end technical drawing using the trusty Paint... So... Sanding the binding flush to the top with an orbital sander should be safe and easy enough as @mistermikev said. Then again scraping such a narrow strip of plastic takes no time. Doing it in an angle also would save the top from being unintentionally sanded. Using an orbital sander on the sides can be tricky especially if the plate is large and the sander heavy as mine is. Another trick is to let the scraper only protrude the length needed between your fingers, be it a cabinet scraper, a single edge razor blade or the blade of a utility knife, using your hand and fingers as a depth gauge.
  5. The strawberry conserve looks good but the mayo looks like the best before date was too long ago... So you're finally admitting that your videos really are educational! Guitar building - Woodworking tips - Home Workshop followed by a glimpse to your other social media links... Your marketing department sure has earned his beer!
  6. Oh come on! The pictures are just perfect! No broken socks showing your toes, no shadow of the photographer, no unrelated artefacts, not even the inevitable dust on solid coloured surfaces! To me they look like a professional photo studio would have taken a serious amount of money for taking them. Not to mention that the target behaved well!
  7. I'd like to see a similar unevenness in chainsaw chains but as they're sprocket driven that might not be possible.
  8. Rather than routing it to thickness, I'd use a simple cabinet scraper to get the thickness right. Or even a single edge razor blade used as a scraper. Plastic is a nice material to scrape as there's no grain directions to worry about and as it's also relatively soft the scraping wouldn't take too much time. You'd also have a much subtler control on the process without having to worry about melting or burning. After having roughly scraped to the desired thickness continue with the normal route of sanding through the grits.
  9. That makes sense. For the same reason the blocks on car tyres aren't of the same size as the similarity would cause vibration which would make an annoying noise (harmonic resonance) and prolongued even fatigue the metal. Despite their marketing speech sounds like that of a snake oil vendor the same technology has been proved viable in a totally different genre. Interdisciplinarity at its best!
  10. Cooked potato (regular, not sweet) might work also on wood, have only used it on glass though. Pink was considered a male colour for boys until about a hundred years ago someone swapped pink and light blue between the sexes. Red is the colour of blood and violence and the red planet of Mars which was named after the Roman God of War, all connected to male activities like warfare and hunting, and pink was the light version for men to become. If the Lovecraft Society tried to argue about the colour you could say that it's a lighter shade of crimson widely worn by "miniature men" during Lovecraft's lifetime.
  11. I guess this post answers to the neck pocket question:
  12. That's some professional grade woodworking and the sounds are something to die for! I never really understood how big an impact the real type pickups have to the sound, now that I've learned what's the secret behind some distinctive sounds I'll have to learn to play!
  13. Never thought of that! Clever! Then again, as has been discussed elsewhere, it makes a whole lot of difference if the polepieces are magnets or just iron magnetized from the bottom. A magnet on top would be similar to the magnetic polepieces so it would be comparing apples to oranges. But I can try to make a mock up magnetic measuring tool of a feeler gauge and a block to see if the pole screws suck a plate of steel from the same distance. Thanks for freeing my mind!
  14. The nut pocket can be similar. A deeper pocket will make the highest frets difficult to reach but there'd be less neck tilt. That in turn can be addressed by a longer upper horn. As @norm barrows said, you need to set everything according to your scale length. In simple terms, as you already have a finished neck you'll have to measure everything according to it. Start by measuring how long the neck pocket should be for the heel. The flat part can stick out a little but the fixing screws have to be within the pocket! Notice that this determines where the bridge sits on the body. Having got your neck seated measure where the bridge has to be. The 12th fret has to be exactly halfways between the nut and the bridge. In other words the distance from the very edge of the nut to the crown of the 12th fret has to be the same as the distance from the 12th nut to the edge of the bridge poles. Position your bridge along the bridge line leaving some adjusting range both ways. A rule of thumb says the bridge pieces of the lowest string need to be adjusted about 3 mm back and the highest 1 mm forward. Mark the front edge of the bridge and the posts. Now you know how much space you have between the neck and the bridge. That's where you fit the pickups.
  15. Exactly. Cardboard is cheap and easy to work with to find a shape that pleases, the final result to be copied to real materials. That said, fully functional cardboard Strats have been made. This video shows how to make it with inexpensive tools on your kitchen table: https://youtu.be/IAa6h8_9YUc For mock up purposes the resin and neck beam stuff aren't needed at all, yet you can install both the pickups and tuners for evaluating balance. Also, especially the body can as well be made out of large guitar shaped pieces glued on top of each other. It's not as strong but you aren't going to string it up anyway.
  16. Holy Mother of Pearl! I bet the delivery times for Robinson inlays isn't measured in weeks... On our trip to Turkey a visit to a carpet factory/wholesale was a similar eye-opener. The most expensive carpet was hung on the wall and it was only some 50x50 cm large! What made it so expensive was the amount of hand tied knots per square cm which was far more than on the best quality large ones. An almost photorealistic landscape made by tying knots, using the finest silk yarn... Such masterpieces usually are the swan song of a carpet weaver at the point when she's developed her skills to the maximum but still has the sensitivity and strength left in her fingers before occupational arthritis forces her to retire. What kind of occupational diseases or disorders are involved in inlaying and how long may be the productive time for a professional with all current health and safety protection?
  17. Obviously similar thoughts have popped into several minds, the adhesive spray and powder sounds like an improved method of spraying paint as it would hold the pieces in place while applying the contrasting powder. Low tack spray glue might work even with the most delicate pieces. The option you're leaning towards sounds viable. A variation of that would be printing on paper or plastic sticker material which would stay in the right place while scribing with a pointy X-acto knife.
  18. Hmm... The bridge pickup is about 1 cm closer to the actual bridge pieces than on the El Pish which has similar type of unbranded pickups from another Chinese vendor. That's in the ballpark of 45 mm v.s. 55 mm. The clearance to the strings is much less, only a few mm's. The bridge on the problematic one is a wraparound which makes it double as massive as the Tune-o-matic on the other one and there's enough of ferrous metals for a magnet to stick. Then again, the same magnet sticks to the T-o-m as well, a plenty powerful neodymium one salvaged from a hard disk drive. If it was about a Strat type single coil with magnets on the bottom side swapping them would be easy. These are inside a humbucker cover with a bottom plate soldered to the sides. I'm hesitant to desolder for just getting a look inside.
  19. Thanks for the ideas @mistermikev. They're humbucker sized P90's made in China, cheap as soap. Taking them out is a no-brainer - unscrew, push one end in and pull the other end out. Putting them in with the springs took a day. There seems to be no 'out of phase' thing going on, the bridge has just much a noticeably weaker volume. I could lower the neck pickup by a couple of mm's, almost level with the body, but doing that would get some of the bite of it off. At the moment the clearance to the strings is about 7 mm at the neck and 5 mm at the bridge.
  20. That piece of Chaos looks fantastic! Out of the blue this popped into my head and I started to wonder if it were plausible: Now that the pieces are laid in place would spraying some translucent paint over the entire layout draw relatively ecact lines for carving?
  21. Thanks! Now that it's confirmed that the pickups are in the right positions the only thing I can do is to remove the springs from the bridge pickup to get it a tad closer to the strings. The springs are conical so the effect isn't much more than the thickness of the steel wire but it'd be to the right direction.
  22. Thanks for the tips! I ended up seating it over the entrance of my BBQ roof. Used the chainsaw to seat it neatly, a couple of screws might be required. Sanding or at least planing the ends and applying some oil may end up on my to-do list. And I should have left a bit more of stem on the upper side now that I see where it sits. I should have asked before cutting...
  23. So ohms is the ones to measure. Does higher ohmage mean hotter? The neck says 6.2k and the bridge 6.8k
  24. No matter how thick the top is (within standards) if you have done structural changes like longitudinal holes to it. A big round hole may not be as finicky, possibly because the tensions are affected on a wider area around the sound hole and the change is gradual and symmetric - and an acoustic top has been cut to thickness. Tops carved to an arch are most prone to moving as there's lots of material taken away. A chambered body with a top carved on the outside can also fall into that category as there's no support under heavily carved areas. Why controller holes are affected on your thinner top may just be reflections of a larger movement. As a final comment to this pondering, it may well be that the woods you've used haven't been dry enough for a hollow guitar. Kiln dried wood will live for quite some time especially if the climate changes radically. It really takes years in a climate controlled storage and even then you may be less pleasantly surprised.
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