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Everything posted by Bizman62

  1. Since it's the outermost polepiece in the row, could it be possible that the threading has cut the shielding of the coil wire, grounding the magnet? Then again, wouldn't that affect the entire pickup? Just thinking without any deep knowledge.
  2. Talking about spokeshaves and cabinet scrapers, here's a tool I should make:
  3. As @norm barrows said, plenty of solvent might do the trick. Then again, giving it a bath might also moisten the wood so it warps. Let's say I'm a bit hesitant about that. As @ADFinlayson said and if I understood him correctly, applying some more oil using a piece of 600 grit wet'n'dry sandpaper might further soften the oil so you can wipe it off. A scotch brite type sanding pad can also be used for that. Trying to sand it off dry would only clog the sandpaper so if bare wood is your goal then a scraper is the right tool.
  4. Exactly. That applies to all oils. You wipe it off but in a few minutes there's tiny sweat droplets all over the place. If that isn't mentioned on the label, it should be added. Wipe off after some 15 minutes or when it starts to be tacky, then wipe again after 5-10 minutes with a clean rag.
  5. I've used both the penetrating and building Crimson oils and they definitely have dried within a day so a bad batch may well be the culprit. It doesn't say it on the labels but did you shake the bottle well before using? A faint memory tells I may have heard Ben mention that on some video.
  6. Thanks for the link @Prostheta. I've been itching to make my own mix of BLO, varnish and turps. The main issue is how the word "varnish" translates to Finnish, making it hard job to choose the right product.
  7. Yepp, we're talking about the same thing. What I meant is that if you can change the proportions to contain more of the same solvent it might dissolve the layers below faster.
  8. The wet weeks sure may have an effect to the curing time. Just for trying to better figure out what's happening, did you wipe all the excess off after applying each coat? My experience with oiling has allowed a daily reapply without issues but I did wipe the coat off immediately when it started to feel tacky. If you have just splashed a new coat every few days it will "never" dry - ever found an ancient oil can or a tube of gear lube in a shed with the grease on the outside still being tacky after a decade or more? There's been questions like yours before, I recall someone trying the solvent only. If memory serves me right it was not a success... But if you know the solvent, applying it liberally to the oil and splashing yet a new coat might soften the layers below enough to be wiped off. Worth trying before scraping?
  9. Nice to see you challenging yourself again! I wonder if... ... you could have cut 1.6 mm slices off each board? ... you could have used the scraper for thicknessing the strips? ... you looked for binding/purfling strips of suitable colours?
  10. River tables are so last season, this one is something different! At first glance I thought it's a bookmatched piece of burl with an interesting coloured sapwood or heartwood. That sure looks organic instead of man made!
  11. I believe it too. It looks like a much loved yet well maintained one instead of a Sahara-dry collection of Valleys of Doom. The binding also looks like gently aged. Good job at making your memories alive!
  12. Buying tools like that would be just a waste of money. Well done!
  13. Basically yes. The other stuff is for professionals who know where and what to buy. But if you go to a hardware store and ask for plywood, they most likely sell you baltic birch, coated or bare. We have a plywood store here and most of their stuff is also baltic birch. Their variations include the textured or smooth brown phenol film coated, the yellow film coated "farm" version or just the bare wood plywood. Plus the coarse dirt cheap construction plywood made of thick fir veneers. They've told me that on occasion they've had some imported special order stuff but it's rare.
  14. Heh, never heard about birch surface plywood before! Our birch version is the baltic, 1 mm/layer. Easy to figure out the thickness by counting the layers! I should buy a film coated piece of 12 mm for my trailer. -The one with thicker veneers is of spruce and holes in the veneers are a norm as long as they don't match on the layers.
  15. At which point this thread turned to be about love?
  16. It depends... It took me several decades to figure out that there's other than the high grade birch plywood available. The coarse fir stuff is for house building and it's stored in the backyard barn, the birch can be found indoors.
  17. By "baltic birch" I suppose you mean the plywood? If so, I can't see any issues. It's made of hardwood veneers combined with glue and it doesn't disintegrate. Why would adding some more hardwood and glue change that? Compared to solid wood plywood is cross laminated which means only half of the wood at the edges is end grain so the sunk glue joints should be plenty strong. Heck, as guitar builders we should know how strong the smallest glue joints can be as they can resist hundreds of lbs of string tension! The acoustic bridge should be one of the seven wonders of the modern world!
  18. The correct bridge string break placement is twice the distance from the edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. There's no exceptions of that rule. Allow some adjustment range both ways, in average the scale is 1 mm shorter for the high E and 2-3 mm longer for the low E, fine tuned from there according to the strings you use - tension, gauge, tuning etc.
  19. Planing 1.3 inches off isn't too easy either plus there'll be a lot of unusable waste. Agreed, the block in question isn't a fancy example of quadruple A grade tonewood. Still an inch thick board of it can be used in many ways other than shavings. My cutting boards are all thinner than that...
  20. @blashyrkh sounds like you're going to find a couple of muscles you didn't know to exist... These conversations tend to spin off pretty easily. It's not because of the community being rude and stealing your threads, it's just the nature of freely flowing ideas which may even return to the original subject in a refined form. Bear with us...
  21. That reminds me of @Urumiko... He was building something like that, wasn't he?
  22. A solid body 3.5" thick LesPaul... For weight lifters only!
  23. An addition to my previous post about the makeshift bridge for finding the intonation point: Jerry Rosa from Rosa String Works uses that method. Further, he is using a makeshift trapeze for attaching the ball ends of the two strings. It's a simple piece bent from a wire laundry hanger hooked to the strap button with a piece of leather protecting the edge of the body.
  24. As your design is string through, a temporary bridge might help you find the intonation line. For that you'd need something like a piece of T-profile aluminium bar or a triangular piece of hard wood. The height has to be in the ballpark of the desired action. You'll also need both of the E strings. The rest will fall in between so there's no need for those at this point. So you string the guitar, tune the E strings and slide the makeshift bridge to get the intonation right for both strings. Mark the end points and you'll know the needed intonation range by comparing the slanted line to the bridge.
  25. What a stylistic approach! The KISS principal is highly underrated, yet a simple stripe of the right proportions can look just right. I can imagine that stripe would tie the fretboard to the body very nicely. A fanciful inlay would require other decoration following the theme, yours already does that. Speaking of "artistic", functionalism is a genre among others.
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