GarrettS

Mods — please move this to whatever forum is most appropriate (I can't figure it out). I'm looking for a builder for my own design solid body electric, chambered. It's a large body ergonomic build. Here are Solidworks renders. It's 7cm thick. I would have liked it to be thicker than it is, that requires use lighter materials, such as sandwich core, and that requires making molds. For a one-off, that's expensive. I want the fretboard milled out of stainless steel. That'll require some planning and materials selection. If I can't get that, I want a hard wood for the fretboard. For the body, aged flame mahogany or black limba.

Is there any three way selector that can be mounted internally, without any screws on the face of the guitar? It's for the look. Thank you.

Looking for someone to finish the CAD part of the project. Should take 10 weeks to complete the CAD part. Modern long body guitar. Headless, neck thru, lightweight, HH + Piezo, sleek, ergonomic, lightweight design. I'm pretty clear about what I want. Project is on GitHub with specifications and CGI. Looking for a pro to finish the job. It's necessary to calculate center of mass using the software program. TODO: * Neck (spec'd, filler CAD) * Body (partial CAD design) * Electronics & cavities (partial design only) * Cavity covers (needs revamp) Guitar Plans CNC stopped working. I complemented his good work, organized the remaining tasks, and offered about ~40% more to finish said tasks, paid out in fortnightly payments as he completed "sprints" of tasks which we would iron out every two weeks. He said he like the idea, then made excuses for months, then finally admitted he hadn't planned on doing anything else.

1. It's about $50 more than the truss rod. Not much, considering what's going into this baby. 2. Were you thinking of using a D-Tube and a truss rod? 3. To balance the guitar, the proportion of weight from the neck to bridge must increase. The body is chambered, the neck and fretboard will use heavy woods. the neck at the lower frets uses extra jumbo frets. The decided strap button position also affects the balance. Reducing the neck weight with D-Tube would solve that problem. It's 50 grams and weighs less than the wood it replaces (especially true for the heavy woods I've chosen). Truss rods add weight in the neck all the way to the "headstock" (which in my case is just a tiny piece of wood useful for a guitar hanger). D-Tube not being adjustable seems like it might be an issue. If we could see large numbers of builds using D-Tube that were 5-10 years old and working great, that would really improve my confidence in them. It's unproven and not without risk.

The long body headless guitar design progresses! It'll be a 24 fret neck-through with a slim, asymmetrical neck. I'm thinking 9-piece flame maple neck with ebony and holly stripes, and one massive flamed purpleheart or bloodwood spine. Something like the below. How can I lighten the weight of the truss rod? Will a D-Tube alone suffice? If not, how can I lighten the truss rod? This is not my guitar, it's a Barlow Guitars guitar. https://dragonplate.com/carbon-fiber-d-tube

I want, inside the chamber: mic. blend knob for mic / piezo blend knob for that system (mic + piezo) / magnetic The guy from LR Baggs told me the anthem system wouldn't work like I want with mag pickups. He said there would be impedance issues causing popping and dropout switching between mag/piezo. So, if it's not possible, I just won't use the mic in there.

My guitar design is coming along well. The physical model is really shaping up! We next need to calculate center of mass and, for that, need to know the electronics configuration. I'm in over my head and need help, either free or paid. Suggestions and offers welcome. I need help planning the electronics scheme for this: H H + piezo 3-way mag selector 3-way selector for mag, mag+piezo, piezo Output jack w 2-way switch (TRS stereo, mono) Internal knobs, inside the cavity, for piezos; bass, treble, and volume Battery for the piezos Sophia Tremolo 2:92 Pro [with GT Pro]

I've played on nickel silver (NS) frets forever and I like the sound, but I filed them down through playing, using wide vibrato with harder strings, NXYL. I was very optimistic about stainless steel (SS) frets, but now, owning a guitar with them, I realize I dislike the silverware ping sound they produce. I would rather have frets that sound good but wear out than frets that sound like shit forever. Do Jescar EVO gold ping like SS? Or is there a way to make NS frets last longer? Who makes them? For my build, I decided to use three fret sizes to achieve a gradation, or tapering of fret width from very wide in the low frets, to super slim on the high frets. I based the sizes on Jescar EVO gold but I don't know how they sound. After hearing so many guys rave about SS frets and then finding I don't like how those sound, I feel like I'd rather play it safe with NS frets. Can NS frets be bit harder? Can I get the sort of fret width taper of Extra Jumbo to Slim Tall with harder NS frets?

Sorry. What I meant was having some frets SS and others EVO. I do not like the sound of SS frets as much Nickel, and the flame maple amplifies the harshness. I heard of cryogenic Nickel/Steel but couldn't find it anywhere. I love nickel steel frets but I bend a lot and that wears them down fast.

It's a neck through design. You helped me with some of that before regarding neck pitch, The modeler is using less neck pitch, 3°, because he couldn't make it work right with 5°. Now as for the bridge, I've contacted CSL and they said they can slot a bridge for graphtech, so I'm going to go with that.

I guess the other question would be which pickups to use to get these sounds. I've used Air Norton, True Velvet, Tone Zone. The guitar I'm designing has a large chamber cavity with a small soundhole on the body. It will probably use roasted swamp ash with a maple cap with a 1mm layer of cocobolo middle layer.

As a guitar player with no experience in guitar design, I'm designing a guitar. The guitar is designed to be headless, for lightness and balance; and to have a tremolo. I would like to have better clean tones and I think piezos should help that. How will that possibly work in the Sophia bridge I'm planning on putting in it? I chose the sophia bridge because it seems to be a good trem that can work with a headless design. But how can I get a piezo system to work with that? And if it won't work with the sophia bridge, then which bridge can work?

My guitar project planning is coming along. The body shape, which is the hard part for this project, is nearing completion of initial 3D draft. So, on to pickups… H-S-H vs H-H Switching from HSH 5 way to HH 3-way — it'd simplify switching sounds while playing. That can be challenging. Why not? Can I still get roughly the same sounds? Can H-H position 2, split neck get the power ballad sound? Would split humbucker get a single coil bridge and neck sound? How does a split humbucker compare with a single coil? The middle pickup can tend to get in the way with picking. It's only slightly annoying. But it is slightly annoying. In my 5-way HSH strat, I use positions 1, 4, 5, and sometimes 3. 1) Neck: Punchy neck leads 3) Neck split + Middle: Hendrixy leads / less gain 4) Bridge split + middle: Power ballad ("Pull me Under", "Wind of Change") 5) Bridge: Rock chords (AC/DC) Metal riffs (Maiden, Ozzy). leads. I also want better clean tones with piezos and I don't know if that will work in the Sophia bridge I'm planning on putting in it. Probably should go in a separate thread

"The body is a convenient place to hang the electrics and strap buttons but, functionally, it doesn't actually need to do much else" The body shape largely affects that balance and positions the guitar. My design aims to get it further away from my body and more to the left. As for the router person, she offered to do the CNC toolpaths, too, then decided that that's all she'd do, then quit. MakerNexus shop teacher, Jeannie Llewellyn, decided to take the project on, came to my house to gather details, hit on me, ignored me, wrote up a plan to do the prototype and CNC for the project using foam and basswood, made excuses, ignored me for weeks, tried to invite herself over again and, failing that, she sent a cryptic text:— At that point, my confidence in her was lower. She later followed up to text me at 1:45 AM that "the retainer ran out". The next day, I text replied asking what that meant. She read the text and ignored it. I issued Venmo a request for refund. She then rushed to send out some 3D image that does not match what is spec'd, and of course, reneged on the deal.

I like the triangle soundhole. I like the curved back. How thick is your neck through? looks like 3cm in that photo. Where are the strap buttons? @Andyjr1515 The objective is lightweight, ergonomic guitar. Weight can be decreased by chambering and holes (like monkey grips, etc). Chambering with holes creates sound holes — holes that emit sound (bonus). The design is to be flat along a spine, from fretboard to bridge contoured, arched back along the sides, and with a deep with a deep forearm contour, . Arching the lower side puts the controls further out of the way of my right hand, when strumming. Because I tend to anchor my fingers, a lower height on the lower side should make it easier to maintain a nice break in the wrist when picking. This should help me pick faster with palm muting while I anchor my fingers. Although anchoring is considered "wrong", a lot of guys do it, and especially guys who play with downward pick slanting, including Zakk Wylde, Michael Angelo Batio (who is left handed), Yngwie Malmsteen, and John Petrucci. I practiced for almost a year not anchoring and eventually went back to anchoring. Contouring the upper side reduces mass. A deep forearm contour makes room for my forearms and also helps me get that favorable break in the wrist. NOTICE: The Solidworks Designer Cut her hand and has not been very responsive. I may need to hire someone else. Contact me if interested.