TSK

Finally made some updates with routing the various cavities and shaping the PRS style top. Vid doc on routing cavities: https://youtu.be/ec8zM4CYAlQ Vid doc on shaping/carving the top: https://youtu.be/jwKwIHUdAkg thanks, -Tony

Hey everyone, For those interested... am sharing my idea of a simple base mount that I had constructed for an angle grinder tool. Background: I wanted to use the angle grinder tool for shaping the top of my guitar body. But, I couldn't trust myself to hold the angle grinder tool manually (being inexperienced). I searched around for a good alternative, but to no avail that was suitable for me. After some brainstorming, using scrap wood and hardware I happen to have around, I came up with this solution. ...was very effective for me If interested, Vid documentary here: https://youtu.be/ZMQ1BuvIpMw

@Andyjr1515 Per your comment, I just checked my purchase (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TR0) again and confirmed that the inserts are intended for hardwoods (wheww!). Thanks for your concern... better to double/triple check and be safe than sorry!

great tip! (thnx!)

@Bizman62 Great points! here's a side view of the above plan to try and to illustrate thickness (hopefully I had converted the numbers correctly ) Though the wood thickness is minimized at the four bolt-thru locations from the 3mm thick washers, I'm hoping that the remaining and majority surrounding areas will have retained max and sufficient thickness and strength of the African Mahogany to hold well (that and with a low action). thoughts?

okay!, good to know (wheww!) I had seen some other non-flat/rounded hollow washers with a thin edge... but figured that might cut into the wood and cause uneven/reduce tightness.

@Bizman62 I originally considered this type of angle neck plate, but then desired a more flush/non-plate look on the back. Will be using this bolt set, which has a flat bottom washer.

@Bizman62 and @curtisa thanks for your guys' expertise and advice (I truly appreciate you lending me your valuable time). Being new at this, perhaps I've been overthinking it (lol). @Bizman62, I plan on keep this neck as a bolt on, in case I need to remove it for whatever reason (e.g., per travel constraints, refinement/replacement of neck, etc.). Am now thinking that I'll leave the neck heel as-is per the following plan pic. (This part has actually held me up from moving forward. perhaps keeping it simple is best for now) Will move the neck just a tad closer into the body (and moving the bridge back slightly to maintain the scale length). The wood underneath the heel will be about 5.5/8" to 6/8" thick. In the neck heel, I'll leave at least 1/4" of wood around the outer edge of each M5 threaded insert. Of the extruded pocket, I will sand down the shaped block ever so slightly (1mm?) to where I can establish a line across the neck heel from one cut-away corner to the other side (just after the 22nd fret). Neck angle will be 2.5-deg (same as my Custom 22). What do you think... sufficient support with this plan?

@Bizman62 If working with the neck as-is (not metal plate, not extended tenon); then, Maybe I could plan for a 2.5" length pocket. I could move the neck slightly toward the pickup by 1/16" (to 2/16" max) and push back my bridge short of the point where the top carve would slope significantly (to avoid overhang). This way, the neck heel would sit a good 1" into the body, with the rest of the supporting neck pocket extruding only 1.5" from the body. If making a rounded pocket (like PRS silver sky), then I could probably add another 1/4" (though, not sure this would make a true difference since, the neck would tend to torque away from it). thoughts about my response to @curtisa ? Also, for the neck joint, I’ll be inserting M5-sized stainless steel threaded bolts through the body neck pocket into matching M5 threaded brass inserts installed into the neck heel. Am trying to figure out how close to the outside edge of the neck heel that I could place the threaded insert and still have enough wood for strong grip. Question: what minimum distance should there be between the outside of the threaded insert and the edge of the neck heel? I was planning for maybe 1/8”… sufficient or not enough wood?

Interesting.... it's definitely making me think about it more. I'm guessing that's aluminum? Hypothetically, If going this route.... I could minimize the part extruding from body to only 1" (or enough for me to fit my bolt/washer). One concern I have is that I would still need to route that cavity area out of the body. Once dropping the neck in from the top, it seems there would be a void of wood above the metal extension (minimizing sustain support). ... Unless, I still glue on a wood extension and then use the aluminum plate to re-enforce that joint. sounds a bit Frankenstein-ish, hahaha. totally welcome additional thoughts! lol

Bizman62, Thanks for chiming in. I'd like to pick your brain some more, please.... Re: Scale length. Yep! Am constantly making sure I have enough body to maintain my 25.5" scale length. Re: weak end grain glue joint. Thanks for this... didn't think about this aspect. Please see attached pic (some of the dimensions are approximate, not exact). Of my intended Course of Action (COA) #2, it would make sense that the joint of a not very thick tenon extension wouldn't be strong enough to put half my bolts into. That said, what do you think about my COA #3? For COA#3, I'd still add an extension. However, I would bolt into the original part, though would shorten the distance of the bolts (M5 hex bolts into threaded insert). I figured that if I could tighten the bolts enough; then, the extended tenon could help to minimize any tendency for the neck to torque around the bolt joint area. That way, of my real intention, I can I also minimize how much the neck heel pocket that extrudes out from the body. (my reasons for an extended tenon is more for better stability of the neck and minimize heel pocket extrusion). thoughts? thanks again!

I have a question for consideration of a next step... ackground: The maple bolt-on neck that I'll be using has a short tenon. I'm now thinking about extending that tenon longer to underneath the neck PU. The neck will still be bolt on (via screw and threaded insert); but, with the bolts farther apart (length-wise) to minimize rocking/torquing (that's the idea, at least). Was thinking of gluing on an tenon extension piece that is about 2" longer from scrap maple. Eventually, will apply two bolts into the extended piece and two bolts into the original part. Would be using Titebond glue for the extended tenon piece. Question: Would this help for a stronger neck joint, or not really? (this affects a next step of routing the neck pocket ... hopefully just once! lol) thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Yes! string-thru. I talk a little about in the Part 1 video. For the upcoming Part 3 vid, I'll show what my approach is on the back side (very simple).

great advice!

Hello everyone, I wanted to share a project that I'm working on... PRS inspired/style Travel Size guitar build. Disclaimer: I'm new to guitar building and mods... So, will likely be asking around for advice for learning and lurking around all the cool projects, gear, and axes here. Anyhow, inspiration for my project is my own CU22 model, though, it'll be more like a CE type (with bolt-on neck). Of a travel size, the body portion is essentially the size of a regular sheet a paper, at 8.5"W x 11.75"L. The neck will feature 24 frets at 25.5" scale length. Attached are some pics to share. And some progress videos as well Part 1: https://youtu.be/TpcWkaX64eg Part 2: https://youtu.be/rmdxkFaUScM In the next steps, I plan on setting the neck angle break and establishing the neck plane. I'll be routing all of the cavities. First time going through these steps... so am a bit nervous to not wreck the nice wood I have. I appreciate any tips/constructive comments you all might have. thanks for viewing! -Tony