sumphead

So what type of sealer did you use? Or did you just start with the poly as the sealer too? R-

I have spend loads o'money at guitar fetish. At my level of skill, I would rather buy budget than risk screwing up high end hardware. But that is still not to confuse bedget with cheap or poor quility. Yeah, he has some stuff that is lower end, but most stuff (espicially the stuff you are talking about for a tele) is great gear at a great price. I am an avid fan of the GFS pickups. R-

What exactly went wrong? Maybe we can help prevent it fron happening again. Also, what types of paint are you using. I recall your previous post, did you go all the way down to the wood or just through the previous finish? One of the greatest things to know while painting is that you starting surface be as perfect as can be as any flaws there will always show in the finished product. R-

I think I may have found another to be alerted to. Cumaru, also known as Tonka and generally reffered to as brasilian teak, though teak-like it is not actually teak. It is very heavy and hard and quite beatiful. According to this site: http://www.rain-tree.com/cumaru.htm It has a lot of uses for medicinal purposes especially the beans of the tree. However Cumaru us the original sourse of the medication Cumadine, a blood thinner. I learned this of course after several hours in the garage when I start to feel a little queezy so I stopped working. Inside of a few hours I had aquired a low grade fever and Flu-like symptoms. My wife was concerned especially after reading up a little on the internet, though I felt I would be fine. As of this morning I have only a tingle of a sore-throat and a little sinus congestion. I use a dust mask as always, though they generally are the cheaper paper kind. Well I am feeling well enough to go right now and buy a respirator. I have one that I have always used while painting, it's time for another just for the wood side of my hobbys.

(In meak and humble voice) Drak....uh sir...if I may be so bold as to suggest something... With that steer-noggin' I think a BIGSBY is in order. Like a D-50. I mean if you think it would be nice, of course, sir. Seriously though, it is simply awesome. I do have a question though. I am somewhat of an airbrush artist but before my last charvel junk job I never integrated the two. How does a micromeshed bare wood up to say 6000 or 12000 intercoated clear then candy burst with another clear over that? Hmmm...makes me think.

Hey wes, Grab some frisket film. Or believe it or not Glad press-n-seal works too. PLace the film and carefully cut your design. OR simple transparency film from your office supply place if you don't want a tack stencil.

weird as in weird or weird as in too close together? They are a little close but with such a long fretboard I realy couldn't get them much further apart. Maybe another 1/2". But they are different pups in a set so they do sound quite different and good at that. CA is Cyanoacryliate which is the technical term for superglue. It is commonly used to fill dents and dings then sanded flat and smooth. edit: Oh and it was still experience, and even though it isn't perfect it was a blast to do. Now I have to find another, hehehe.

All put together! http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/sum...pg?t=1164733509 http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/sum...pg?t=1164733707 I still need to clean up the wiring a bit, the clear cover is on but not screwed in so it almost can't be seen. Still a rookie job with a few rookie mistakes, but I like it. The funny thing is, I am not a metal guitar guy at all. I do have a 13 year old though, who will make a mockery of all things punk. R- Oooo, cost rundown: $80 for the beater charvette $65 for the GFS LFR (which I am so far impressed with being a cheap one) Still have the rusted original too. $60 for the EMG-HZ 3s which I got almost new from a board member. $35-40 in paint supplies Couldn't count the hours And a ton o' priceless expererience Thanks all, R-

There were several wood dings, most were easily filled with CA. There was one so large I had to use a 2 part epoxy. I also made a clear acrylic cavity cover for the back. Sanding starts tonight and I am shooting for assembly this week. R-

Thanks for moving me maiden! R-

I've been working on my scratch build for some time, but in between sessions of screwing up wood or in areas I need practice before attemting I love pawn shop surfing for guitars to tear apart and rebuild. Some years ago, I used to airbrush t-shirts so I though after seening several other awesome guitars I'd wet my hands again. Anyway, I found a near dead early model Charvette in a pawn shop. After haggling for some time I brought her home for $80. After some major body repairs I filled the single coil with matching poplar and re-routed for another humbucker. I got back into airbrushing and this is what I came up with. ALA- the great Perry, I was inspired by the WOMD Ormsby. It has been cleared but not buffed out yet so bear with me. When finished it will have a new FR (not sure which yet), EMG-HZs, the original Jackson tuners, and I'll leave it the single volume set-up though I may add a kill switch. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/sum...pg?t=1164557734 http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/sum...pg?t=1164559708 http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/sum...pg?t=1164559728 R- EDIT: Umm, the img tags are not allowed? Can someone embed a picture for me please?

Your age is impresivly irrelevant. Awesome work for a hobbyist of any age. I look on with envy at what is only to be described as a natural talent with a keen eye for detail. You had me with the milk dud. R-

I should have mentioned I scuffed the acrylic before the epoxy attempt. I hadn't given a lot of thought to Gorilla glue mainly because I assumed it would not dry clear or at least be visible in the seam, is this not the case? Thanks for the promt reply, R-

...stab myself in the eye with an unsharpened pencil. OK, Being an acrylic junkie I though I would build a body with a black cast acrylic 1/8" accent lam between a walnut core and curly maple top and bottom (think high figured carved top and back, walnut skunk stripe centered top and back between the bookmatchings. Maple neck walnut headplate). On to the test lab: I first though since I make my own acrylic welding solvents surely I can make a resin/glue that will make cast acrylic stick to wood. I figured a mixture of a resin based solvent and a simplified wood glue (PVA) would initially react and solvents would break down the PVA and look somewhat like a spreadable lumpy butter. I also ASSUMED it would soften the acrylic enough to allow adhesion to the wood. So I went for it and sure enough I got a yellowed cottage cheese consistancy that was as easy to spead as a well placed slimy sneeze. And for the record, yes I wear a respirator while playing with chemicals and plastics. The test went very well and couldn't pull my test lams apart, but on a larger scale it was a worthless effort as I could pull my lams apart with about an estimated 15-20 lbs of pressure. Basically a short drop on a completed guitar would be disasterous. Then I tried a 30 two part epoxy.....the acrylic literally laughed at the epoxy then walked to the fridge and helped itself to a beer. Any Ideas to make this stick? CA maybe Otherwise I am going to choke on a bullet. Thanks in advance, R-

Since it is a rebody and for a 9 year old to boot, he'll outgrow it before you know it. Still a worthy project none-the-less. At least right up my alley as I am still haven't finished my first scratch build. As for the body wood alder is a nice choice as you mentioned earlier, but look around for anything really. My suggestion for the pup(s) would be to go fairly cheap, again 'cause it'll be outgrown. Maybe a single GFS crusader ala' Tom Delonge. I just finished my 13 year olds first full size and now the requests for the cash build up fast. Just something to think about. HTH, R-