icetrey

Thanks for all the help. I understand what you're saying. Just like most parts of building/repairing guitars, I may not have actually done it myself (usually because I lack a lot of the "specialty" tools) but because of forums and YouTube I know the process of how most projects are done. Thanks again for such a quick reply.

I was worried it might come to that. I've never had to do a repair that major before. Unless someone else chimes in with a better suggestion then I guess now is as good a time as any to learn. Thanks.

Hi, my Baby Taylor fell off its stand the other day and suffered a small crack in the headstock/neck area (photos below). It's a pretty small crack and if it was only cosmetic I'd let it slide but now the guitar won't stay in tune so it has to be fixed. I've done a similar repair on a Flying V (photos below). For the Flying V repair I used a syringe with wood glue and a clamp and it worked great (finished photos below) but the crack in the Taylor is closer to the headstock so I'm not sure how I would clamp it and at the correct angle. I'm also not sure if I can get a syringe into that crack. Any suggestions on how I should go about this repair is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna try it with the fretboard on and see how it goes. I know how to remove it but I've never actually done it before. It's a neck thru and so messing up the fretboard would cause me all kinds of problems.

Hey guys, my brother came across an Epiphone Flying V at a yard sale for nearly nothing. It has become my latest project guitar. The neck has a small crack in it and my plan is to use a glue syringe, apply some wood glue, clamp, then sand smooth. I'll be refinishing it anyway. My only concern is the glue getting too deep and effecting the truss rod causing it to be stuck. Do you think that's something to worry about? I think I can just apply the glue to the outer edges and be ok but I'm slightly new to this type of repair. Any help or advise would be great. Thanks. If the picture links don't work I apologize. I haven't posted in this forum in years. Also, I was pulling the crack open a lil in the pictures to show what I'm dealing with better. There's usually not that much of a gap.

Thanks guys, made lil mock up with posterboard and even though I have nothing to compare to they look perfect to me. I also just donated to the site for your guys help. Thanks again.

So I've been refinishing my Strat which had a type of racing stripe on it. I want the same same racing stripe but forgot to get the measurements before sanding it down. I've never used CAD, Photoshop, or any of the other programs some of the other members on here have. Is there a way to figure out the size of the stripes using the size of the bridge as a reference? Tried doing it on Microsoft Paint but if I zoom in any it gets too blurry. If there's not a good way for me to do it myself and it wouldn't take one of you very long using a program you have I'd be willing to send ya $10 to $15 through Paypal if you can find the size of the lines for me. The size of the bridge is 2.98"x1.64". Thanks for any help. http://s81.photobuck...zpsbc70b295.jpg

You can also go to the reranch forums and find some good info there. They have quite a few people who have done fabric and poster finishes. http://www.reranch.com/reranch/

Cool. Thanks.

Ok. Thanks guys.

Let me explain my post a lil better. Last guitar I painted was: 1) Bare Wood 2) Vinyl Sealer 3) Nitro (Color) 4) Nitro (Clear) Since I didn't like the way that worked out this time I was planning on doing: 1) Bare Wood 2) Deft Sanding Sealer 3) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 4) Nitro (Color) 5) Nitro (Clear) I understand what you're saying and I realize it's not a grain filler but I guess I got lucky cause the guitar is alder and doesn't have a lot of grain or is not as porous as others (I think I'm wording that right). But the Deft sealer did what I needed it to and left a smooth surface with no grains showing. Do you think I should also use the Vinyl Sealer or skip step 3?

Sorry. I accidentally posted the same question twice.

I've gotten through the first stage of refinishing my guitar but last time I painted a guitar the order I went was 1) Bare Wood 2) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 3) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Color) 4) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Clear) I wasn't satisfied with how the vinyl sealer filled the grains so I've started a new project and already sprayed and sanded smooth some Deft Sanding Sealer. Do I still need to use the Vinyl Sealer before doing the Behlen color coats or have I already messed up and need to remove the Deft because that would be mixing brands and I know sometimes that can be a bad thing? Thanks in advance.

I've gotten through the first stage of refinishing my guitar but last time the order I went was 1) Wood 2) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 3) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Color) 4) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Clear) I wasn't satisfied with how the vinyl sealer filled the grains so I've already sprayed and sanded smooth some Deft Sanding Sealer. Do I still need to use the Vinyl Sealer before doing the Behlen color coats or have I already messed up and need to remove the Deft because that would be mixing brands and I know sometimes that can be a bad thing? Thanks in advance.

I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the StewMac one. It has good reviews and I've always been happy with stuff I've gotten from them before. Also, I do hope to get into guitar building more later (when I have more tools than a router). So I guess I will need it again, and the right tool can make any job a lot easier. Thanks for the replies. I do appreciate it anyway.