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Donut Man

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About Donut Man

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    Sheffield, UK

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  1. I've seen a few bridges which have the wider mounting holes (which would fit the predrilled allparts body I'm using) but has a thinner 54mm spacing - would one of those work?
  2. I've tried sticking a shim in, which helped but it's still not perfect - doesn't seem like the pocket is wide enough to get it to the correct alignment?
  3. I just strung up the strat I'm putting together to check alignment/action and I'm having some string alignment issues - the E string is practically hanging off the fretboard above the 12th fret. Here are some pictures to illustrate the problem: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%281%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%282%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%283%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%284%29.JPG I've got very little experience with setup, but presumably it has to be either: 1. Nut alignment (which, as you can see, I've messed with to no avail) 2. Neck alignment - maybe a shim between the neck and the side of the pocket on the treble side? 3. Bridge alignment - is there anything I can actually change about this? Any ideas would be much appreciated!
  4. On a different note - what pickguard do you think would look the best? I was considering a white pearl one?
  5. Yeah that's what I thought as well. I'm not sure what the correct positioning is as it doesn't really look like the pickguard follows the shape of the body exactly.
  6. Actually, I was wrong - I have a pickguard that used to be fitted to my old MIM strat (which I don't have anymore) It doesn't quite look right though...
  7. I've got this flame top allparts body I'm trying to fit a pickguard to. I've not got a pickguard to hand to mess about with to check alignment etc - can anybody with a good eye tell me what sort I might need? The problem is that the body isn't exactly strat shaped, I think, but I can't be sure, because again, I don't have an actual strat to compare it to. Thanks!
  8. Late night idea: http://store.guitarfetish.com/on25waguamdr.html Would that work as a preamp/poweramp setup?
  9. When your routing and test fitting a truss rod cavity, remember to take the truss rod out again before you start routing. I realised just before I ran my router into the end of the truss rod and stopped, phew......
  10. Would you happen to know how much postage to the UK will cost? I need to work out if the total for a 27" slotted ebony board is going to be enough to make me pay tax and customs, because if it did, then it might be cheaper for me to get the board somewhere within the EU.
  11. Thanks for clearing all that up for me. The reason I don't want to make a preamp is because I find myself slightly incompetent at soldering and want an "easy way out", maybe using a few pre assembled components. And yet I don't want to pay £100 for a 6 string sustainer kit, or more trying to track down a 7 string Fernandes, to cannibalise the 7 string sustainer - Bad combination, I know...... So basically, if I can't build a F-R myself, I just need to find an audio amp that has an input buffer? Also, as a slightly unrelated question - Is the impedence problem you described similar to what people experience when they try to mix piezo pickups and magnetic pickups without a "buffer" preamp? EDIT: Another quick question, Galaga_Mike mentions in his "make your own sustainer" guide that the Ruby doesn't have enough gain for lower output pickups. How low output is he talking here? PAF low? or higher? The reason I ask is, I play metal, and all of my pickups are pretty high output humbuckers, so I'm wondering if I will actually have a problem using the Ruby circuit.
  12. Ah, the ol' sustainer thread, I remember I almost convinced myself to try and build one 100 pages back, which I subsequently gave up Can I just ask a few quick (and probably stupid) questions: 1. Why do I need a preamp for the sustainer circuit? Don't preamps just shape the tone? Is it possible make a working sustainer with just a power amp? 2. If I can bring myself to try and build the Fetzer-Ruby circuit, should I use plain board with holes in or board with copper strips on? 3. What is the view on driver placement? Neck position? Middle position? Or does it not matter that much as long as it is close to the strings. I'd like to read the whole thread, but 200 pages scares me even more than the 100 last time I checked, so please forgive the noob questions.
  13. another quick question: Do I have to use the ruby or the little gem amplifier/preamps? Can I just use some sort of generic audio amplifier, maybe a pre-built one like these: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=...4&criteria= http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=...1&criteria= http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=S...mp;doy=5m2#spec Or this http://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/3017.htm since its 386 based also, is there a difference between a LM386 and a LM386N-1? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...ier&doy=5m2 Can I use that for the little gem?
  14. Ive not got an EMG in the neck position, I've got the stock pickup, and it doesnt work too well with the EMG, so thats why I want to put a driver there since I have no idea what the power section of the fetzer/ruby is, can someone tell me? or mark it out on the schematic cheers
  15. oh dear...looks like I double posted too.
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