oldrocker

I do have a battery holder in the back plate of the guitar. Although if I add a preamp to other guitars in the future I will be looking into those battery compartments you showed. I have them on my acoustics with the eq's but I didn't know where to buy them. I heard that preamps help with long cord impedence so I hope it helps with my 30'.

Thanks George, I assumed that they were the same but when some people said they were mounting the pre-amps in stomp boxes I started to wonder. The reason I asked is because I recently rewired a flying V I had from an active pup circuit to passive. Don't get me wrong as a passive rewire it doesn't sound bad but I'm thinking it might sound better if I put an active circuit back in it. I wanted to build the circuit myself instead of trying to put the old one back in. I couldn't find any DIY projects on the Internet that actually used the term active pup circuit. But when I did a search for onboard electric guitar pre-amp I found a few decent sites on the subject. http://www.till.com/articles/GuitarPreamp/ http://www.diyguitarist.com/

I'm not sure if this is a stupid question or not. I have a pretty extensive background in electronics and have recently found a DIY project for an onboard electric guitar pre-amp. I built it and it works pretty well. It isn't mounted in any of my guitars yet. I'm using it as an outboard pre-amp at this point. My question is. Are onboard pre-amps the same as an active pickup circuit? I was actually trying to build an active circuit and thought the onboard pre-amp was the same thing but now I'm not so sure. Does anyone know if there is a difference? What are the differences?

I found the history of the electric guitar very good. You can't move on to the future without understanding the past. You have to know where you come from to map a solid path to where you're going. I own a '72 Tele. It was blond and in unplayable condition. Someone had already messed with it's electronics and replaced the pots etc... I haven't played it in about 12 years. One day I brought it out to show some friends and hey winced when thay saw how bad of shape it was in. I was going to buy a new one when I got the money but after some debate I decided to refurbish the Tele I already had. Anyway I stripped the paint and stained and polyurethaned it. I put all new hardware on it (american standard bridge) with the 5 position selector switch the noiseless pickups and rewired it. I love that guitar now and play it all the time. It's like playing a blast from the past. It was the first electric guitar I ever owned and I missed playing it. But now it's even better than ever. With some new technology and old body and neck I've got the best of both worlds. [url="http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic=DSC00010_1143831016-422-10328.jpg"]http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic...6-422-10328.jpg[/url]

Yes a 25 to 30 watt is best for electric guitar soldering. Esspecially when trying to ground to the mass metel on pots where you need to heat fast. Although I have used a 20 watt with good results. The adjustable 15 watt setting is only good for smaller wiring jobs.

I agree with unclej. Couldn't have said it better.

The main reason you need to ground the bridge to the strings is because your pickups are magnetic coils. Electromagnetism transfers electricity through the magnetic field. So when your pickups sense the string vibration cycles and converts it into electrical signals the strings are in essense connected to the electrical system of your guitar. If your bridge isn't grounded then when you touch the strings and a grounded metel knob on your guitar your body will become the ground of possibly a different potential contributing to noise or somtimes cancelling it. As for the truss rod, that has nothing to do with the electronics of your guitar so don't worry about grounding it.

I was wondering what the tuning machine head looks like on this Tele mod.

I'm new to this forum and I'm sure I'm not as good as some of the guitar technicians on this site but I have done some guitar and bass modifications and refurbs. I took a Kahler trem off an old Randy Rhodes Jackson copy and put it on an old flying V that I wanted to start playing again. It worked out good although I had to resess the bridge about 1/4" below the body surface so the string highth would be correct. I also added the locking nut to the machine head and rewired the guitar from an active pickup setup to passive. I made a template of the Kahler trem with the routing hole drawn on a piece of paper and superemposed it to where the old bridge was located. I must've gotten lucky because the intonation was perfect. Keep in mind this was the early eighties version of the Kahler Flyer and I know most guitarist don't like them but I have to say I love it. I hardly ever have to fine tune it even when I really slam the bar all the way down to where the magnet on the on pickups stick on the strings. I'm sure the sustain is not as good as the newer brass ones but the sustain sucked with the old bridge anyway. The string action is much better though and the guitar has a whole new feel to it and now I like playing it. Before I did the modification I didn't like playing it at all. I also took the tuning keys (Grovers) from the other guitar and put them on the V since the gold ones didn't match the color of the Kahler. [url="http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic=DSC00029t_1143804252-422-10339.jpg"]http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic...2-422-10339.jpg[/url] [url="http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic=DSC00017t_1143847614-422-10338.jpg"]http://www.logmonster.com/images/full/?pic...4-422-10338.jpg[/url]