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theQuestioneer

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About theQuestioneer

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    at my computer (as i type this)
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    Guitars, music.<br>im a newbie to the entire concept of building, so please bear with me, and my questions with seemingly obvious answers.

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  1. well think about this: the neck narrows, so if you had the bit the perfect size to round it at the heel end, towards the headstock the cuts would overlap and make a point . even if you sanded it down the radius would change significantly. if you had it so the cut was right at the headstock youd end up with a flat bottom towards the heel.
  2. i would think that that's true but: 1.take the scale of the neck 2.the saddle is that far from the nut. (3.) (scale)-(nut to heel)=(heel to saddle)
  3. i'm liking that, although some people may have trouble knowing which pin is which. if they haven't used chips before....
  4. the first post was correct. the second post i posted by accident. i'm sorry it was unclear. ignore my second post, that's what i wanted to delete. the first post is still true.
  5. oops nevermind this... wheres the deleate?
  6. get the standard 2-pickup, one V one T from guitarelectronics. then get the motherbucker diagram from kent armstrong ("schematics" on their website, second page.) for the pickup that you will be using the motherbucker on, use the motherbucker schematic instead of that pickup. see how it says "to pickup selector" on the kent armstrong diagram? use that instead of the wire in the standard that goes to the pickup selector. treat the grounds the same way. that will give you the options for the motherbucker that they have. i haven't used one, but that sounds like a pretty good way to use it, although it can be wired many many different ways.
  7. look closly at those blend pots. count the poles: 6! they are a differnt kind of pot entirely, they explain it in "understanding guitar wiring" edit: that's a free info sheet. it's like a balance control for a stereo, sort of. i don't know what's with the discription though.
  8. wait what happens with the 9v - ? i didn't understand your previous answer to a similar question.
  9. that wouldn't work. it's not like the signal goes through the tone pot so you can't go around it. you see? cut the tone pots off of the pickup selector so that there is no wire between the two, and the tone pots aren't connected to anything, besides eachother.
  10. ok, on the single conducter, the woven metal around the wire is the ground, the wire is the hot. on the 4-conducter, wire the red and white together, insulate the lead, and forget about them. wire the green and the bare together, that's the ground, and the black is the hot. now you have hot & ground of each pickup, use a wiring diagram based on that.
  11. or how bout a completely new idea, a rotary selector switch from guitarelectronics? that's shorter, but woulg give you control like a 5-way.
  12. good call. i checked, stew-mac says they require 1 1/8" the advantage of using jehle's config is that you would get coil taps, because you could use more kinds of mini toggles. and rhones, what exactly do you want? how many of each control? 1 tone 1 volume or 1 tone 3 volumes (with 1 tone 1 volume, that's only 2 push-pulls, so it won't work unless you throw in another switch) when deciding, think of a pot as an on-off switch, so you need as many as there are pickups. (mine had 3 volumes, each being on/off, and a switch.) or you could do jehle's idea.
  13. you can make anything you could with a normal pot, so yes, you can make a master tone control. i used push-pulls on my first project. it wasn't any harder than it would have been, maybe even easier. a push-pull pot, as far as you have to be concerned, has a pot part and a mini toggle half. go for it.
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