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johntbyrne

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  1. I bet you are right. I bet the description is based on a translation so it is not exactly right. Looked at pic again. Looks like router will hit top bar on right side limiting how far it will travel to the right. Looks like you may loose an inch or two. If you loose only one and allowing 1/2" to left and right of wood block this limits width of body to 13.5". May work but is close. If router limitation is 2" it will be close, maybe too close. Agree, a call may be in order but I suspect they can't tell you much since they don't know what router you will put on it. A small diameter router would be better I would think. Interesting.
  2. "Precision woodcarving replicating machine makes expert copies up to 29'' x 29'' in size. Reproduces surfaces with three dimensional carvings by using any popular router (not included). Ideal for sign making. Overall dimensions: 31-3/4''W x 31-1/4''L x 17-1/2''H " Now wait, it is only 31" by 31" but can make a copy 29" by 29" ??? 29" times 2 = 58". ???? something not right here unless it scales up and that wouldn't be as accurate. I suspect
  3. Actually the dash stuff from aerospace is real CF. I use it (in my laminates) for making CF frames for my R/C helicopters. I'm not sure how it would sand however, suspect not too good.
  4. Try these guys for a source. http://www.acp-composites.com/ Suspect they can't advise about inlays but can about just about anything else. They sell a paper thin CF sheet designed for dashboard laminates. I've thought it would be cool to veneer a top with it. I have some and laminate it for strenght/thickness with CA glue. Neat stuff. Ordered from them several times for my model helicopter adiction. Good folks.
  5. Your choice of course by my opinion is that there is good wood out there if you look around so make each guitar unique. Thus, one guitar and make it killer and design the guitar with "that" wood in mind. I don't know, using similar wood on several guitars sounds too much like a factory to me and less unique. But unique is what turns me on so..... Just my 2 cents which as usual isn't worth much. Cheers John
  6. Same question as GuitarMaestro Also, is there such a thing a quilted rock maple and if so why couldn't it be used?
  7. Interesting points. I too have a similar neck board. Flame and was "billed" as rock hard maple. I don't know if it is east or west but I can tell you I can not put a mark in it using my fingernail. In my case it will be laminated with a center walnut 1/2" wide board. All will be quarter sawn. Was going to use carbon rods, opinions? Thanks John BTW, don't know if this means anything but flame looks different that my other boards. The flame is wider and not as defined as the soft maple top deck board I have. It is also not as straight. Does this mean anything?
  8. See the HT10 is back in stock. How did the new company making them work out? Quality same? Also, are the tuners still "good enough" in this kit as we have discussed before? Thanks in advance John
  9. After having more than 2 minutes to think about it (at work) this wasn't difficult at all. Here goes 25 1/2" scale, 10" radius nut, flat bridge. Using nut sting spread 1 3/8" and bridge strin spread of 2 3/32" you need .... drum roll ... right at 26.3" radius at 22nd fret to get flat at bridge. Sorry for wrong first answer. What I get for not thinking a problem through enough. Cheers John
  10. errr, that one is difficult. Problem is flat mean infinite radius and this doesn't work in a graphical solution. I'm at work and don't have time to figure this out for real but I did a check with very large radius nuts (4000 and 8000 inch). I got two drastically different answers for 22nd fret but both were in the thousands of inches. I think its safe to say you still almost flat at the 22nd fret. Let me think about this one some more. Problem is going to be that the shape of the fretboard has a drastic impact on answer I think but still I think we are going to see that we are basically still flat. I'll think about it and get back to ya. I can tell you that the closests guess we had was 15" (grin). I didn't guess. Cheers John
  11. Darn engineer in me .... -3.6" radius at bridge. Not stop making me laugh. John
  12. Oh btw, having a large radius at the bridge would be a good thing I think since it allows the bridge to be set "flatter". Thing I wonder about is how you could set the bridge for one of those high radius necks like 9" jobs. Funny how you never think/notice these things till you start to understand and build them LOL.
  13. Just for laughs I jumped into AutoCad (easier than math in this case) and found size for radius of bridge as asked. Assume, 25 1/2" scale, 10" at nut, and 16" at 18.75" from nut this results in about 18.16" radius at bridge. Of course since the bridge for each string is at a different distance from nut this isn't really a true number but gives you an idea, again just for laughs. Cheers John
  14. New developments. Please hang tight and I'll get back to ya. I suspect you can open a dxf without problems. Do you have a table belt sander? If so how long is the belt?
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