low end fuzz

Hey Grant, I thought you disappeared on us....till I saw that cool new build you've got going. Good to see you again. SR lol! i guess i did! this site keeps shutting down my posts, no explanation or anything, thought i would post my build, but they did it again! i dunno what im doin to upset these guys soo much but im out, im sick of it; basically i come back to check out your builds! your like the only guy with super luthier skills, that isnt on my facebook or on talkbass. still lovin this; its comin out Amazing!!!! grant

so whats the problem??

different strokes for different folks! lol! i do alot of things myself i would never advise someone else to do; and im not saying its not possible to make 2 pieces of wood stick together with glue straight off the table saw, im saying that its not a quality i would expect from someone taking themselves seriously should settle for; my first bass neck ever was glued up off a table saw, and at that time i was satisfied, but now that i know waht a real glue line looks like its not even something id show my grandmother; but if somehow you have a table saw blade and some kind of feed that can cut a prestine line that perfect, i would say go with it....as your thickness, but 100% hit those gluing edges with the jointer, count passes, and make sure you take off exactly the same amount on every lam and you can pass it off as perfect. if were gonna touch on personal opinions, a characteristic of a glue joint should be suction cup like grab between the 2 pieces with only hand pressure fitting with glue.

i'll give that a go. Thanks RAD. Yeah don't be using a jointer for thin lams it's scary doing stuff like that. It's foolish to try stuff like that, I learned that the hard way. You mentioned that glueing the strips together right out of the table saw won't glue up right. Thats what I always do with thin laminates and have never had problems. I joint if it's a three piece neck and the pieces are bigger but otherwise I don't and I have never had problems. Just glue them up as is. sorry; horrible advice.

i dont think your getting the straight answer you want because what your asking is just dangerous; thin lams should go thru a thicknessing machine, a planer would work but one snipe or tearout on a thin piece would ruin it, i like your idea of double sided taping it and going that way, but in the end i doubt if they would be equally thick, they would be flat on both sides on the end but it wouldnt be true, its just not what a jointer was meant to do. imo

lookin good; lovin that walnut

hey Scott; I will tot he best of my ability give a testimonial to the osage; alot of my judging will come from how its like to work with, cuz im not a guitar player and dont hear certain characteristics well; and yes its a guitar and will have the classic 6 strings; the neck pickup will be practically riding the edge of the fingerboard, and the truss rod has a 1/4" hex nut on it; and i need the clearance for the tool to fit; so quite givin me a hard time this 'tunnel' wont be seen but its the same way i do all my bolt on acesses

giant neck hole?? are you reffering to my truss rod channel? only the access is done with the bullnose, goes up to the nut of the rod, its a normal stew mac 2way hotrod;

so way back when; i started cutting up some wood and glued up a neck; the neck is mahogany with a tapered center of osage orange, the fingerboard; tho it doesnt show in the pics, and for that matter prolly wont show in person when finished; is curly ebony; right off the planer you can see the 'lightning bolts all over it, but i had a fretless i used a piece for, and it looks more like dull spots on the board, when you look closely; ah well...its still ebony i had a one piece 1" mahagony body with a quilted maple cap and lacewood center, kinda using up cool woods i had; i needed to find something around half inch to stick between to bring it up to thickness; and couldnt find anything, and eventually just put it on the shelf; a recent build i did had a 21" cutoff of wenge, when i saw it just sitting there it triggered my interest, i already had all the hardware and pickups so here we go

Abalam; no?

i go the store and get the wood from the carmalized maple shelf! lol! sorry; actually its a process done up here in Canada; they actually cook it and the sugars carmalize; the hard maple goes this colour but the soft goes the most delicious chocolte brown; its got an essence of red to it in person; that is the wood colour (the body)no stain just finish the attempt in my understanding was to offset the demand for mahogany with somthing plentiful and domestic; in that way i beleive it was an utter failure; but some of this wood is fantastic and smells faaantassssttic! (and it wont kill you enjoying it!)

ya; theres a gold to brown theme that was ignored there; thanks Scott!

colourtone; like i said; never needed more than one complete coating; but to be fair, these are not mirror gloss finishes, the most is high gloss, but still no noticable pittings in either of the ones im looking at now; theyre about 2 yeas old

and finished; that was fast! lol 5 coats wop no grain fill, simple levelling and a polish old p pickups i had vol/tone/varitone hipshot vintage bridge might change the control plate to somthing dark or add an amber colour if it bugs me in the future. very basic p sound on the .047 cap; and variations of course thru the varitone; very nice to play; might be my starting bass after all thanks for looking!

this was a little project ive been putting together little by little of scrap peices and parts; i had 2 orders on the go; that were stagered in process but still times where i could only do an hour or so of work on them; like gluings and stuff; where i didnt want to leave the shop yet so i made an additional project i could just whip thru; it is to be my back up p-bass for my band; i only thought of taking photos half way thru, so this is all there is mahogany core quilted top claro back carmalized maple stringers carmalized maple neck w/ zebrano center maccassar fingerboard

hmmm; on the few projects ive wanted a very level finish and had to pore fill, ive only needed one coat of WB filler (stew mac) and some touch ups; i sand to 180; fill the pores; i use my hands, i never remeber to but a brush; rub it on, and i dont even sqeegee it off; resand 180, look for dips in the light, slop on more in spots i need it (i just use a popsicle stick) resand spots and finish; i always level my finish at least twicw during the process, which could be the secret; but i find the filling the part that gives me the least greif; thats on ash and walnut mostly

that looks like curly ash? no?

haha; thats the great thing about the written word; you can rant on and on without being interupted; personally i like when a guitar comes out of nowhere and blows off my socks; not to say that i dont enjoy all the progress threads; (especially yours and daves) or that you shouldnt rant on either

Great Rant I agree 100%. If you don't have a build thread for your entry then it should be removed. Also as pointed out by D E S Your first post should be in the GOTM. My vote went to OLA best guitar and he had a build thread and contributes to the forum. Hell he gave us his Bread and Butter. Kudos to you Ola. Peace Sorry; couldnt disagree more. i get what your saying and its valid; but thats your right to have that as a reason not to vote for that build, it shouldnt be a pre-requiset for the competition; if im putting all i got into a build and am very proud of the finished product why cant i try to get some recognition if im too busy to to keep a journal? this is the one part of the forum that is tottally a bueaty pagent; if you had a build thread of the month; that would be just;

some easy digestible words of advice i heard for some of these questions are like; 4-5mm of wood on each side of the truss rod; seasoned wood wont warp (nesessarly) just succumb to string tension where the truss rod;with enough material to take the pressure will adjust; your width shoukd be determined by your bridge spacing to desired nut width e.g. 40mm; make a drawing from your outer saddles to where you want your strings e.g. 30mm apart 15mm on each side of your center line add the 5mm on each side and there you go; if your just looking to make a body shape thats tried and true, trace a factory shape and just go from there; have all your hardware handy and you cant go wrong; your only making a vessel for all of it; thru necks can be a challenge; but no more than anything else if your focussed; i stay clear because i dont have the room in my shop to walk around with a full 50" the whole process good luck show your progress

whoa fatty!

thickness sander and jointer are the best combo for me; i would never hand sand a glue joint; and if im not mistaken, your question was about thicknessing something less than 1/2" because thats all your planer could handle?

i dont even use my thickness planer anymmore since i git my t. sander, but when i run stuff to small or thin for it i run it on a board with sandpaper stuck to it for traction; dunno if that could handle the blades cutting into it; but what about same idea with some double sided tape? i would suggest being able to hold onto 1 end at a time, shallow passes and a true side to start

He cheats! He uses his fingernails as well i think you mean orgmorg; although he wouldnt carve the body with it, he'd probbly turn it into a tremelo or something!

this guitar is like a full-length feature film! groooovy man!