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Prostheta last won the day on September 23

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About Prostheta

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    "Looks just like a Telefunken U-47"
  • Birthday 07/18/1976

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    Pori, Finland
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  1. I think the line is best drawn at the Gibson/PRS lawsuit, "only an idiot would confuse the two". Beyond that, it's shaky.
  2. Prostheta

    First full build from scratch

    I've not used pre-slotted boards for years....can't comment on whether they're any easier or not. I've had reasonable success with hand-slotted boards (literally, by hand and eye) but nothing like what you get from a good mitre slotting box jig, then following up with a saw and depth stop to radius the slot depth. It's genuinely gratifying that I have helped in some way! It really is. The main thing is that practice and applying a bit of thought back into the process makes the experience a progressive one. Nobody likes hitting a wall, and nothing puts you off getting better. The people I work with now are fantastic and so much more able than me in so many ways. Rather than feel overwhelmed or out of my depth, I just feel there's so many roads to explore and venture down. When you stop learning or finding new ways to learn, that's when you lose the capacity "to be good". Happy to be a learner myself.
  3. Prostheta

    First full build from scratch

    Thanks man, but there are so many people out there far more capable and knowledgeable than myself! Hell, I learned from them myself. My go-to hammer is a 370g dual face hammer from Thor Hammer: https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/nylon/31-710r.html I've never found the need for a brass or copper face hammer. A good fret slot with bevel, correct depth and slightly over-radiused wire should almost seat itself. At least, it feels that way. What works for me might not easily work for somebody else, so that has to be borne in mind. What is definite though, is that good clean straight slots and the other details make the work easier.
  4. Prostheta

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    We can rebuild him. Better, stronger faster.
  5. Depends on the softest of the two woods, the direction of cut and thickness. I aim for 200-400 from the softest to the hardest hardwoods, which is the simplest way to view the numbers. Realistically, quarter to half of ideal gets you an optimal bond when pressure is distributed evenly with cauls and beyond there it's all about cosmetics. Some woods show it more than others as well. Khaya for example, is excellent at 200-250PSI. Invisible joins are easy. Consider a body blank at 16" x 1,5" or 24in of area. That's 4800-6000lbs, or 5-6 big heavy duty F-clamps. Three good table bar clamps. Half of that still gets you a result, quarter maybe not so. Up those values to neck blank, top or fingerboard area and the numbers go up a lot because of surface area. If the join isn't critical - such as a top - you can concentrate pressure around the visible seam to get the best appearance whilst getting "what you can" in the middle where quarter-half is adequate but not ideal. A fingerboard benefits from even and adequate pressure of course. Does this make things clear as mud?
  6. Quick clamps only develop a couple of hundred PSI. Nothing to be scared of.
  7. Prostheta

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    Will do. Good luck!
  8. You can....however it would take a lot of effort and no cauls to overpressure an area.
  9. You and I see different things all of the time, Scott! I immediately see (or calculate) the clamping pressure and distribution. More importantly, a single line down the centre wouldn't apply pressure at the edges as much as the centre unless it's a sprung joint (slightly concave on one face....not reasonable at this scale or narrow width) whilst two is excellent. The ultimate bond strength (assuming perfect mating faces) will be more than adequate for the end use whereas the cosmetic glue line might be a little more visible than as not. It should still be a really fine result when it comes out of the clamps and is cleaned up. You'd be surprised how many people in industry aren't aware of how to run the numbers either you know. People are surprised how seamless my joins are when laminating and think I'm crazy for using 60 F-clamps and noting that 90 would be better.
  10. Prostheta

    First full build from scratch

    I don't glue frets. Popping up is a sign of bad seating which should be dealt with as a cause rather than using glue to fix, really. Slots are either oversize, frets are springy (stainless does this) or the slots were mashed by the frets going in.
  11. Prostheta

    First full build from scratch

    You should be over-radiusing the wire. For 12", go to 9-10". That way the wire seats better at the ends and only needs work at the centre where it spreads the barbs outwards slightly in the slot. You should be able to hammer the ends down, but they might be popping back up?
  12. Your work's come a long way. Ever look back at how it used to be?
  13. My quote of the day:
  14. Prostheta

    KEA 2017 builds

    The contrast in the reflections is far higher than in the figuring. I'm sure that it's a combination of lighting and maybe the camera fiddling with dynamic range, pulling down the contrast in the wood.