Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Exactly why I asked. It tends to make my brain do backflips sometimes.
  2. Too many damn strings on those basses, Aaron! hahaha
  3. Oh man, how did I miss this thread?
  4. Nice flatsawn look to the Wengé; is that heart up/heart down rather than bookmatched?
  5. I've tested the uploader, checked group permissions and there's nothing going wrong on this end of things. BMP files are too large, so our software is set to reject them. The site will only accept the uploading of: jpg png gif rtf mp3 zip pdf dxf dwg tcw wav Site hosting is extremely expensive, so we only allow specific file formats that tend to be large like WAV. BMP is about as useful as PCX these days.
  6. Guitar Of The Month is just closing on an empty month.....there's a couple of days to snag it ;-)
  7. Did you consider using an epoxy?
  8. Appreciated. It'll be one on the longer-range radar to be fair. I'll drop you a line when things move towards that point where it's practical!
  9. Perhaps once the YouTube videos have established themselves and the ProjectGuitar.com Patreon support covers it, definitely. I'd be happy to do a field video at David's with his blessing!
  10. I wish I could do the same. I've always wanted to rummage through David's wares.
  11. Yes, well that whole affair is going to create nothing but problems for everybody and not just the UK. Leavers should literally do that, and bugger off to an island in the Pacific whilst the rest of us get on with productive collaborative lives.
  12. Sorry if I skim read a little. I'm not sure what problem we're trying to solve here? A power conditioner rejects noise, and usually takes the form of a power distribution unit. They can be overwhelmingly-simple or complex and expensive. For example, the Samson Powerbrite PB10 that sat in my rack for a decade: https://www.thomann.de/gb/samson_powerbrite_pb10_pro.htm "3-Point protection: surge protection, peak voltage spike clamping and RFI/ EMI filter" It just makes sure that any dirt or noise in your power supply doesn't cause your equipment to do weird things, induce noises into the audio, cause reboots of digital gear, etc. Depends on what you mean by "16 Ohm cab". A cab with 1x 16 Ohm speaker qualifies as that, as does a cab with 4x 4 Ohm speakers in series, or 4x 64 Ohm speakers in parallel. If you're familiar with how to calculate series/parallel resistors, it's more or less the same thing (other than phase) on a very basic level. Take 2x 16 Ohm speakers and put them in parallel and you divide the apparent load by two to 8 Ohms. Put them in series and you double it to 32 Ohms. It might be possible, however whether its recommended is something different entirely. Never really messed with rewiring cabs myself, however the principle is simple.
  13. Try black Walnut veneer. If you want to darken it, I can show you how to make a good Ferric Acetate mix which turns wood with high tannic acid contents black. That includes Walnut and Oak, plus Mahogany and a few others to a degree. Dyed black veneer is also an option, however I don't have any direct beads on sources. I think I bought some from David Dyke about a decade ago so YMMV off that recommendation.
  14. I'm guessing that trade within the EU is not restricted with these changes? I might be tempted to find something nice from over in the UK.
  15. Power conditioners and surge protectors are not the same. Generally a PC provides cleaner, less noisy or more consistent AC supply. A surge protector prevents spikes or overvoltage conditions from damaging equipment.
  16. There's no one right way, as you would expect. Some methods just allow you to sidestep the otherwise less pleasant tasks such as sanding the stuff back. For me, that's the dealbreaker hence why I prefer buffing the filler in. The less sanding in the final phases, the better in my book.
  17. Sure. I get a peppery nose and slightly runny eyes, but no breathing issues. That said, I decline from working with it unless I get a really nice piece. Choice this side of the pond seems poorer than it used to be. Where'd you source yours?
  18. Interesting. I've never had trouble with Cocobolo beyond the dust, and in the finished item its always seemed more less inert. I guess it's more of a problem if you're already sensitised to it.
  19. This is exactly how I made the nuts for my first builds!
  20. I haven't written anything up about this as of yet, however I've discussed it briefly with @Norris and maybe @Andyjr1515 a little. Basically, the grain filler is rubbed into the wood with the grain, then buffed off against the grain with jute or other coarse sacking when it starts to set up. That removes most of the surface filler, leaving the pores more or less filled. Same as always, grain filling benefits from a couple of rounds at least so you can get some of the more stubborn ones nailed.
  21. There's a learning curve with grain fillers. You can either take the easy-hard route of letting it dry (easy) then sanding it all back (hard, or at least "annoying") or learn how to apply it and buff it back when semi-dry before a light finish sanding. I'm still mastering the second and almost there.
  22. After Tortilla Fridays, I wish I didn't have one the next morning. Speaking of which, it's Quesadilla Saturday. Hooray for Sunday eh?
  23. I'm gratified that you managed to find your ass, Mike. The times we live in! Seriously though. Nice to hear you on the positive. Have a great weekend yourself.
  24. No problem, always welcome. I think the word is definitely, "pop". Black just doesn't seem to provide that. I'm sure that this is not a hard and fast rule of course, however accentuating the rising and falling grain ("figure") in a piece is a balance of increasing contrast versus maintaining the 3D look (chatoyance). The extremes here are using black dye to increase contrast, which flattens the look of depth completely. The other end of the scale might be say, oil.....which enhances contrast minimally, but flatters the depth. I've wanted a black cherry instrument for a long time myself. I love the look....that kind of deep "black in the dark" but bright deep cherry in the light thing. It can be done with the black dye/sandback routine with plenty of clears and toners over the top, but I think some of the movement and natural depth in the wood is important to maintain otherwise it can be like a photo under glass if you get what I mean. Flatter the wood and then dress it, rather than bash it flat with a meat hammer and pressing it under glass.