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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    Floaters can vary in severity. My scotoma is still there. Left eye, two down and one to the left of my centre of focus on an Amsler grid. Blurry, like I'd been looking at a bright light and have an afterimage spot. Smaller than one square. I don't notice it unless I look for it. It has to be the worse excuse for a crappy ghost ever.
  2. SHB-2 - Tele build

    This seems to be a subject of contention, the whole "fretting off the neck" thing. Mostly because the flex in the board can cause it to backbow as the fret tangs don't fully bite into the endgrain in the slots. Just keep it nice and flat, and hold the fret when pressed for a second or two. Another one of those non-issues that people like to discuss endlessly ("to no useful end").
  3. Radius Sanding Blocks from Jig to Final

    Don't rush. The instruments will always be the better for using well-made jigs.
  4. SHB-2 - Tele build

    I couldn't say either way. I sometimes fret when the neck is flat, and sometimes after carving since I have rounded neck support cauls. Either way works with a press, so it depends on whether you can support the back of the neck, or whether you need it to be flat to get it done.
  5. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    That's probably the best way in this proposed application. Not sure how much of a window the 30min Z-Poxy (since I prefer to talk about simpler off the shelf stuff) might have given the mixing time, and whether heating closes that window up for pouring. It would need to be very organised.
  6. SG Respin

  7. Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    Too late. I've come down with some crappy lurgy.
  8. Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    Ah, don't you be dragging your weird swamp illnesses and passing them around the thread, old fart! Still, have a great week yourself....!
  9. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    I wanted to see how much product I could get the epoxy to handle before it refused to bind it together or became too gritty. I think it might have handled more....even though I think by this point it was a case of diminishing returns.
  10. Radius Sanding Blocks from Jig to Final

    Jigs are almost as fun as making guitars. I swear.
  11. SG Respin

    Chipout is always unsupported short grain. Every time it happens to me, short grain. Beyond that, routers are happy creatures until they are fed the wrong bit of wood at the wrong time.
  12. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    What's your opinion on the percentage of glow powder to an epoxy? I used (let me see if I have a photo).... 33%!!! It was kind of like melted buttercream consistency. Drizzled fine. The remaining (about 1/2"?) product in the pot cured without any noticeable separation. Not sure if the sheer quantity of glow powder product had anything to do with that. The components were pre-heated a little.
  13. Here's your proof. Good call Matt. https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattachment/Resources/Safety-Data-Sheets/23123,-23035,-23132-Tru-Oil-Saftey-Data-Sheet.pdf.aspx 40-70% Stoddard solvent, which is white spirits (UK) or mineral spirits (US).
  14. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    It really depends on the epoxy. The dot casting tutorial I did used Z-Poxy 15min and I used a LOT of powder. Since it isn't miscible with the epoxy but wets, I figured that it shouldn't affect the process and I went hell for leather. That's why the pot up there (which was a byproduct of that tutorial) is seriously bright. I didn't notice any settling out, however I was working on a far shorter timescale than yours.
  15. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    I find that the epoxy gets very grainy and prone to picking up air once a decent amount of luminescent powder is in there. It would make working a chore to get down in 15-20 mins, plus a larger than usual batch would be required. Again, all about that ticking clock. The idea would need a lot of testing, practice and proofing before committing.
  16. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    If I were doing this myself, I would rout the channels for the binding, then dam them up with tape or a thin strip of polyethylene (epoxy doesn't stick to it well). Then pour or inject the epoxy mix into the channel with a syringe. Music Man do a similar process with their "liquid binding" which is injected into a channel cut by CNC. When dried, the outline is cut and the binding is an integral part of the body blank. I wouldn't risk trying it here, however that is one way to go about it. @StratsRdivine would have better advice to kick mine straight to the kerb I bet. I wouldn't mind trying this using straight off the shelf Z-Poxy 30min. Maybe in the future I will.
  17. Double dye stabilizing wood

    It was more comment on the nature of black dyes as opposed to the photo :-) I agree that it looks very striking. Like a false colour shoreline.
  18. I don't think so. At least, I've not tried it.
  19. Double dye stabilizing wood

    Black can get a bit dirty or too stark. How does that look in person?
  20. You can mix in artist's oil paints with Tru-Oil, or in fact any other drying oil to create tints. Obviously a very very small amount, and do test on scrap. It's a great way to find all manner of crazy tints without breaking the bank by buying all kinds of colours of TransTint or whatever. A little lasts forever.
  21. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    Do you mean luminescent? Some materials do fluoresce however I'd guess you are matching up the inlays. Go for it! How are you thinking of managing this?
  22. Mr_Riddlers build thread

    Nice! What camera are you using? Myself and Brett could possibly help with settings if you're using a DSLR or semi-advanced device. A tripod or some other way of keeping the camera still for longer exposures/slower shutter speeds makes a huge difference. This was taken with the room light off, with the glow of the monitor in the background. It's very close to how it looks in real life. Settings were ISO 100 at half a second shutter speed. Lens is a Canon EFS f2.8 24mm STM. You could run the CCD sensitivity at up to ISO 800 with little added noise for a faster shutter speed, but since it's static and on a tripod, you can go for broke on the ISO. In low light, any handheld shot will be very poor either because of the long exposure times required to capture enough light or a lot of noise from a super high sensitive ISO. A larger aperture lens helps (such as the 50mm f1.8 Brett mentioned, which I use also) however you have a far shorted depth of field and tighter framing, especially with crop sensors like that in my EOS 100D. I hope this was good info, or at least helps you figure out the direction to research this field.
  23. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Totally. It makes a huge difference to one's peace of mind as well. I get super zen when I have a clean sheet of MDF on the table for working.
  24. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Given your relatively modest setup, your work shows a strict eye for cleanliness and keeping the workpiece from getting banged up, scarred, etc. Are you as obsessive as me in sweeping the workbench every minute with a brush? I can't stand working on dust and chips, yet a lot of people can't get past that stage and wonder why their work isn't clean and sharp-looking.