Prostheta

Good call! Hardly a necro thread when it is still very much referred to

It should do, yes. The objective is to replace the missing wood from whatever tremolo/pickup(s) was/were in place so that it can be re-routed for another bridge or pickups.

Not done it, but perfectly possible. You would need holes to poke the adjustment screwdriver through.

All useful conversation is positive! No hijacking here, simply an extension of the idea presented I guess.

You can still use inserts, but with something like brass screws to act as individual string nuts. I was thinking whether the example above has some method of keeping the individual screws located tightly, or whether it depends on string downpressure.

I'd say that a fine-pitched screw is all that is needed, however given the play in most threadforms I'd hazard that threading your own would be better. An M3 fine thread would allow .175mm of adjustment per half revolution if the witness point were symmetrical. This isn't difficult and uses off the shelf parts.

This looks like it isn't adjustable or easily serviceable, and are just brass posts filed to the point that a standard nut would serve. Just bullets of brass rod set into drilled holes.

I can't help but consider the titanium rods that were "in fashion" for a while (likely another come and go fad?). I wouldn't convince myself over the contribution that the material has to how a neck "sounds" in service. The type of rod contributes far more I think. Again, it depends on what you want from the rod. If you've got both materials on hand, test them out and see how they hold a thread. If they break up, it might be that the carbon is acting as discrete fracture points than being in solution.

Awesome - great to hear! I can't say that I'm an expert on the properties of different steels, however I guess that if it were treated correctly prior to threading, you'd have a good shot with high carbon steel. Ultimately though, it depends on what you want from the material. Mild is more than enough for the basic needs of a truss rod, so perhaps looking at more exotic materials (not that high carbon steels are exotic) is creating more work and outlay for little or no return. I'd certainly not want to harden the threads too much after threading, however I would agree that a rod that is more durable than easily-replaceable nuts is a better option than the other way around.

AvE reference? 

https://www.mcmaster.com/

Helical and Threaded Inserts > https://www.mcmaster.com/#Threaded-Inserts

Threaded Inserts > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=180ej43

Filter by 2/56 and Press-Fit > https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=180eku0

Much of this publication was based on a legacy article from many years ago, and could well benefit from an update with a wider scope. On the to-do list.

Thanks for the input Perry - I'll remove the photo and reference since it's inaccurate information.

Agreed, this is why the article is angled more on how to "falsely" enhance the figure, since dye flattens the natural chatoyance.

Thanks Norris - I hope it provokes a bit of thought and consideration into the leadup to finishing processes. I don't think any one answer will suit all cases since all schedules tend to be pretty unique.

The sandback technique is invasive since we're actually needing to take off dyed surface fibres as part of the figure accentuation. If the grain has been raised and knocked back properly before any dyeing/sandback, there should be far less of it caused by the sandback itself since it'll be at high grit rather than aggressive lower ones that slice and plough up fibres. In most cases, if it does raise (rise?) during the "non sandback" applications, it should be able to be lightly knocked back with 320-400 grit paper. Alcohol dyes are far less problematic when it comes to swelling the fibres.

Good question. I think this needs to to be examined further when I do some future dye work. Race you to it.

Very true Keith. 6mm or 1/4" is about the point just before the elastic flex within the rod tend to naturally induce a backbow without tensioning, plus it's easier to acquire (at least here) than 5mm rod. I think if the latter were available, I too would gravitate towards it.

10/32 adjuster nuts are off-the-shelf parts so 3/16" makes more sense unless you're willing (and able) to make or modify your own nuts. Being a bass builder more often than not, a slightly beefier rod makes sense to me; that and the router bits for cutting channels being very very standard.

Me too. I've got to sort out the pantorouter first. HDPE doesn't like being laser cut (rewelds rather than ablates) so machining is the way forward. I think that making basic shapes such as parallelograms, trapezoids, blocks, etc. can be done just by shaping HDPE however it's going to require a bit of thought. Generally I think that demonstrating larger-format moulding such as a logo or other complex shape is a better idea.

Orange and yellow would look absolutely amazing for that. I've seen LEDs embedded under charcoal, all epoxied up before. Doing it with luminescent materials in multiple stage pours could be spectacular, if somewhat expensive. A proper water clear casting resin would be more economical than Z-Poxy, etc.

Possibly! I think open-grained woods like Ash would respond better to this kind of treatment. I'd have to test this, however epoxy can definitely be thinned out using solvents like alcohol or xylene. I think that this would help get better pore penetration, otherwise the glow would be a little indistinct with the kind of depth normal pore fills achieve. The problem with adding solvents is that I am sure it will shrink as they dissipate. Again. One to learn from.

Very true. I'll add a note in the text.

On 11/19/2015, 3:56:24, MenO said:

great info here, this is quite a project!! how long did the whole mod take you? in days that is? 

Thanks! Well, aside from sanding off the original paint and veneer, the work took less than three hours. Partly because of it not being the first time I have done this, but mostly because of having access to good tools/machines.

If you have a table saw and a good router then that is most of the tooling needed. A jointer and thicknesser make it quicker to prepare accurate infill material, but nothing that a well set up table saw cannot manage. Putting thought into how to apply these steps to your own experience and available tooling is most of the hard work I think. If you need help on working out how to manage this yourself, lets have a look at your project over on the forums!