scab

Hello everyone, I would like to know your opinion on which mahogany (country of origin) is best used for neck timber. I'm curious because- I've stumbled apon a stock of Honduran Mahogany that is quite dense and heavy, and it seems to me that this is getting rarer. But I have no idea. any input is welcome- thanks, Mike

Usually the better investment will get you stronger, safer, and more long lasting bits. $10 is a pretty cheap router bit, $30 seems much more likely. mike

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtop...101&t=18415 posted @ the OLF also here's some of the pictures I took.. thanks mike

No, I haven't asked over there yet. I was going to wait a couple of days to get my camera back, so I can take pictures of it to help describe it better. I'll post the link here once it's on the OLF.

Fryovanni: Most of my top braces are glued w/ a 30' radius form, and the soundboard was glued to the sides w/ a 15' radius form. We did this to help maximize volume and add tension. I made my braces pretty skimpy (thin), but when I glued them all up I made sure that they were all pretty tight. My back braces were glued w/ a 50' radius form, which the sides were sanded to the 50' radius form also (no tension built in on the back). But like I said the dips arent very deep. I'm definately sure that the guitars sides were sanded to approx. .085" probly sanded .005" in the build process.. I wouldn't be suprized though if this particular section of the sides could be pushing .075". So I imagine like you said it could be a combination of things. -sides being too thin -humidity has caused them to expand (swell) -the top and back are pulling the sides out of alignment goodwood: This is kinda the case. I remember when bending there were slight dips there before, but they were all sanded out. This isn't the first time I've run into this problem (like I said before). I fixed the problem on that first guitar, and just scanned it over the other day and noticed it has created little dips like these. Personally I think what my biggest problem is, is the thickness of my sides throughout my build. B/c I remember when sanding the sides flat (after binding) there were dips like these. Also could be the unstableness of the wood before I started. I'm probly going to call some of my instructors and see what they have to say.

I would've liked to have a picture with my post, but my digital camera is out of commision for a couple of days. Sadly this isn't the first time I have run into this problem. I've had this happen on another guitar, but fortunately it was before lacquer was sprayed. It's probly hard to understand my explination (I used the term warped very loosly). Basically the guitar is taking on a higher humidity now that I have moved. As I'm level sanding (getting ready for buffing) both of the sides just below the bouts, looks a little like this: this is an exaggeration of course. The two outside flat spots look as though the kerfing has made prints in my finish. I'd say the dips are probly no more than .003-.005" deep. I have actually already sanded through the lacquer, so I definately need to spray more. I just wanted to know do you think I should reinforce it w/ a couple of vertical strips before I continue and fill them w/ lacquer? and also is there any way to prevent this from happening in the future, b/c I plan to build for people all around the country. Should I make my sides thicker? maybe instead of 5 vertical strips to each side do 7 or 8?

hey y'all, I built these dreadnoughts down in Arizona where the relative humidity remained a low 0-10% (constantly). When being built I kept them at a humidity of around 35-45%. My sides were approx. .085-.090" thick when bending. Now 6 months in the future the guitars have been sprayed (and cured), I moved back to my hometown in Nebraska where the humidity likes to stay at around 60-80% (when it's not raining). I started level sanding the lacquer and noticed the sides were warped (from taking on too much moisture). Basically I have 2 questions: 1) What can I do to fix the problem I have? Should I add some more vertical strips to help flatten (and stabilize) the sides, then shoot more lacquer? 2) How thick should I make my sides in the future? replies much appreciated! Thanks, Mike

yeah I think rick lays them across the top of the braces (horizontally rather than vertically).. So your trying the 10 second neck reset/side-to-side adjustment?? I've just been making Martin replicas! haha bolt-on's though

Rick Turner inspiration?? Flying butress supports and a side sound port. I think your x-braces instead of back braces is an interesting concept. Are there strength advantages with those instead of back braces? Whats your take on that?

I just found my krupps expresso machine last week at a garage sale. I noticed when I saw him @ R-V he said to make sure you get the krupps b/c it's one of the only expresso machines that has a stem shut-off valve..

This is what I was going to say. Your hole should've been drilled before finish was applied. Once your ready to press them in the lacquer (or whatever finish you have) will make it tighter. You will always want to ream out all your holes after finish, b/c your finish is usually uneven in those areas. Mike

damn that guitar is cool! Everytime I look at the pictures I see something different. Your binding looks flawless. Whats your technique? peace, Mike

NICE!! Love the back and sides! Is that curly walnut? Great job on the inlay! It's nice to see I'm not the only one building acoustics peace, Mike

Daniel, So you grind all that out for neck fitting, but what about down near the heel cap. Have you not glued your heelcap on yet? Mike

just use a mill bastard file w/o a handle and hold it at a slight angle.. then crown the fretends w/ a fret crowning file. you can make a perfectly "semi-sloped" fret end. mike